man on the moon

Umm. That is bad. Hopefully a manufacturer defect and not due to some misalignment or poor torquing technique! If it is a front wheel drive model I have a full clutch kit I can sell you for not too much. It was sold to me instead of a 4wd one, and I never got around to exchanging it in the time frame the store wanted (it was mail order).

There is a little pin size hole on the clutch fork, and one on the bracket where the T-bone stablizer mounts toward the rear of the engine. I pulled a bed-spring looking thingy to do the job, just cut it to length. This clutch is much happier now

Is there a return spring on the clutch fork? Might be a dumb question, sorry, but sometimes those are the things that 'do it'. The small, but not zero weight of the fork leaning back (cable, too) can cause severe premature wear on the plate. Don't ask how I know. Also don't ask why I did my clutch twice in 18 months! (It's all good now, btw). To be fair, I bought the car and the return spring was missing (I have a picture somewhere), did the clutch, didn't even think to replace it, paid for it a few months later.

It doesn't take more than a few minutes to undo the driveshaft. If you don't have a jack, you can pull onto a curb or...dolly (not recommended) to get a little more clearance. Just toss it in the back and put it together again when you get to the other end. Np on the clutch.

Nice link! Must print...470 pages? Maybe I'll buy a new toner cartridge first. I thought this was going to be one of those "You know you're a Subaru fan if..." or "You spend too much time on USMB when..." type threads. My first submission was going to be "keep a pickle jar...no, a 5 gallon bucket full of nickels and dimes in your garage"

The obvious solution is to back the car onto the dolly, of course! That won't make ANY more problems than...oh. Never mind

Ah, that makes sense. Flat tow=bar, right? Not a dolly.

If it's a 5 speed, can't you just take it out of gear? Or is the drivetrain dropping for standard transmissions as well?

Touche!

What car is this on? And what engine? Also: your picture didn't show up. Answers will be much more accurate with the model and engine info

Now this idea I like! I remember you mentioned doing it, but missed that you had one in the shop (or that came to mind later). I may consider this later in the summer--rent is due next week . I think I have somewhere to work on the car, just waiting on the homeowner (who is not the friend who suggested the location) response. If that falls through/I don't find anywhere to work on the car in the next few days I'll take this option and put money aside, just leave it parked a few weeks. I have everything minus needing the heads machined to perform the job. Well, and I'd have to grab intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, but those are virtually no cost. Do you have the ability to machine heads at your shop? I should have asked on the phone.

Score!

140 what? MPH?...

Talked to Shawn. He doesn't have a shortblock or whole motor, and labor would run close to $800 . He did offer to help me move it to somewhere I can work on it myself, since it isn't worth it to fix the EA82 which will probably just fail again at some point, soonish. I have most or all of the gaskets (I'd have to check), and a pair of heads I can get machined. I may have to grab the lifters, or ask a machine shop to free some up from one of the heads I pull off. That said, this should be one of the cheapest head gasket jobs yet...that said...I HAVE TO DO HEADGASKETS AGAIN. Only eight months!

The last time I pulled an engine to swap, I combed craigslist until I found someone selling a Loyale that had transmission problems. Drove out, the motor was fine, dropped it in mine. A rear ended/other accident/part out event (branch fell on it, etc) would also be a good donor. That's the motor I have now, and had I a driveway or parking spot I would do the work myself. I think the block is ok, heads are toast. One is, at least. May as well do both since the other likely isn't far behind. GD: I'll ask Shawn if he has a full motor close to ready to go, but I would be impressed if he has one just laying around with no home. Won't complain if he does, though . He hasn't answered at the shop yet, so I'll try again later. Also--thanks for the heads up on cheap shipping for a shortblock, I had no idea cargo was that inexpensive (assuming one isn't found locally, CCR may have a shortblock, for example). A friend's church is looking for a cheap car for driver education classes, and I'm beginning to think if I can get someone to donate a shell I can build the rest, as long as the pastor gives me a spot behind the church to park it in while we wait for parts! Tax season just having ended it seems no one is in a hurry to donate a working vehicle, but that paperweight in the yard that the neighbor complains about...lots of those

That was my initial thought, but unless he has one just laying around I'm not in the mood to wait a month for one to come up. If he does, I'll be very happy!

Perhaps I should rephrase my thought. I'm debating whether it would be more efficient to grab a shortblock--especially if Shawn has one (I haven't asked yet) and seal it all up nicely, using the heads and cams I *already have* (I keep a set of spares), and drop it in place of the motor I have; or if it is faster and cheaper to pull apart and put together the motor already in the car. Time, space, and money are limited :|. Not expecting a hard and fast answer, just looking for ideas I may have overlooked, but so far both answers aren't news to me, which is a good sign that I haven't missed anything major

I do want a 2.2 but no space or money for that big of a project right now. Good call on the motor possibly seizing, however, I was able to start it and it ran for a minute. This was after it cut off, cooled, and I was able to safely refill the coolant. I just need to replace the head gaskets, and maybe the valves and valve seals. And other gaskets I will ruin trying to get down the the head gaskets (intake manifold, exhaust, etc). I think I'll stick new timing belts and hoses in, too, if I can get my hands on some. I have a pretty good idea what needs to be done, just debating the most efficient way to get it done. I think Shawn will know best since he is the one with the shop, but any time I go into a problem with multiple solutions I like to collect information from as many sources as possible. So far all bases seem to be covered, though. Should be good! Thanks guys

Ok, she eventually responded but wants the cash she is asking for it due to financial reasons. I don't think she's going to get it, and as if in evidence of that I just came across her re-post of the ad a week later. Good luck to her, I guess!

Ya, just happened this once. Got it warm once or twice, but not overheat warm. I took it in because I have no desire to drive it everyday. I was hoping it would just be the radiator, and I could still drive it a few weeks without doing anything else, but when he said there is water in the exhaust...ugh. Gotta do something now. My initial thought was that simply putting a motor together and swapping it in might be easier since I have 90% of the parts necessary, but taking apart/cleaning/machining/replacing won't take much longer. Would it be cheaper...that is a question I'll ask the mechanic . Since it is at the shop he will have a lot of say, I'm just trying to make sure I haven't left out any options to ask about. Be headed up that way in a few hours, we'll see what happens! It's not an extraordinarily big deal, minus riding the edge of being broke, so I have to find the cheapest way to still get a running car out of this mess

I seriously overheated the car earlier this week (Loyale) on the way home from work. My eyeball/roadside inspection came up with seepage from the radiator, and seepage on top of the motor. I'm pretty sure something big let go, just not sure what it is. Lost most of my coolant between the time I heard the hissing sound and the time I got to the end of the exit ramp (no more than 90 seconds or so). Motor shut down voluntarily. Had it towed to RetroRoo (ShawnWs shop) here in Denver. He confirmed my suspicions, and also found water that appears to be coming from one of the exhaust studs, which is really *really* bad. I can only hope it's leaking from elsewhere and collecting in the manifold, rather than originating from the exhaust. After some consideration I have a few ideas about where to go from here. My options are somewhat limited by money and space (third floor walk up studio with street parking): 1--Buy a gasket kit and just reseal it. Machine the heads and hope for the best until I can get money, parts, and space for a 2.2 swap. 2--Get a shortblock and assemble a new motor. I have a full set of heads, cams, and valve covers, and an intake manifold in the back of the car from another Loyale I had a while back. I only need the shortblock. I also have a LOT of gaskets, I would only need to pick up the valve cover gaskets and the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. I have one head gasket, and think the other is in there somewhere, should be in a box under my seat--not sure how they got separated. I have all the other gaskets from two partial 'full gasket sets' I've picked up along the way. I would also include timing belts, hoses, and vacuum lines. Have the 'new' motor swapped in once it's resealed. 3--Grab a running motor from a running car (wrecked or bad tranny or whatever) and hope for the best. Did this last time, and it worked out ok-ish until my radiator gave out. 4--Park it and pick up a new car for a while, though any car I can afford at the moment will be demanding just as much time and money in the next six weeks as the Loyale is now. (I'm saying disposable income is limited). 5--The radiator will be replaced or repaired, my gut says a seam for one of the tanks burst, or is starting to. Something over there is leaking under only 5-8 pounds/pressure with the machine, and it doesn't seem to be any of the stopcock/thermostat/drainplug thingies. Can't confirm it is the tank, but there are only so many things it can be, and any one of them is going to cost just as much to repair as to replace. May as well put in a known good rad than repair this one and find out in 1000 miles it is full of crud and building up excessive pressure. Eventually I want a 2.2, but that is a few parts and several weekends in the future, maybe after I get a job I don't have to drive for every day (currently 25 miles if I drive, four busses/two hours per way if I do public transit). Anyway, I'm leaning toward #2, and am headed up to the shop tomorrow (Saturday) to pick Shawn's brain and see what can be cobbled together between what is in the back of my car and the back of his shop--but in the meanwhile, does anyone have other suggestions or ideas? It doesn't have to run forever (though I wouldn't complain), just enough to get me to work and back until I have enough saved to fix and not band-aid the problem.

Dumb question, but are your air lines and vacuum lines hooked up? You can have everything perfect as far as timing goes, and if the airboot or vacuum lines are not connected, the car will try to start, but sputter and die. Even if you mash the gas it will only run a few seconds before dying.

I've seen people put an air tank in there attached to a compressor. If and/or when I get around to needing a bigger tire I have also considered customizing a toolbox in that spot. I'm forever setting my tools in there when I'm working on the car anyway, so why not make it official? Or maybe some sort of nesting deal where there is a spot for oil/coolant/cables/etc, and an upper tray with a magnetic lining that would just hold bolts and nuts when I work on the motor (tools would go somewhere else).

I spoke too soon. On the way home tonight the motor started making funny noises and blowing clouds of steam. I got to an exit and she died as I rolled around the corner, about 200 feet from a huge pull-out. It is safe to say she overheated . I almost took her home (called a wrecker), but ended up dropping the car at Shawn's shop instead. I hope you don't mind, Shawn! I did check my oil, it was way full. Drained it. No water (that I could see) in the oil. And no water in the motor, either. I poured in d*n near a gallon once it cooled down. The engine turned over and started, but I let the truck still take me as I suspect the whole thing would just happen again, and my water supply was limited. There was water running down from the side tanks of the radiator, and seeping from what appeared to be either the intake or top-of-the-head gasket on the driver side. Not sure if it was a hose, gasket, or just heat inspired expansion that will go away once things are good again.

I thought there was a law of nature or something where it starts to rain when you wash the car. Just leave the hood up next time .