eulogious

What code did you get? You haven't mentioned that yet. The abs unit will tell you what's wrong if you do the code dance with it… Not knowing the code makes it hard to say what's really going on. Most of the sensors like that need to be precise as nipper said. Trying to patch the tone wheel back together won't really work unless you use a mill to mill the parts to spec. Even then it's a crapshoot that it will work. Either buy a new tone ring and go through the hassle of replacing it, or just grab a used hub and slap it on. If it were me, I would check the code to make sure it's the tone ring before doing anything else and wasting my time on something that might not be the issue.

It was fun to meet and BS with everyone there! Glad I went, and I will be making it out again for sure. Maybe next year I won't have to drop the wife off an hour away on the day of the show so I can have some more chill time with people I got some pics, but I need to upload them first… Thanks to everyone who put together a great show!

There is no extra fuse, it should be in the fuse panel or tied into an existing circuit if not in the fuse panel. I have removed one of these systems, and I have had a complete extra system as well, and neither had a fuse. I should have paid more attention to the power source when I removed it... I should also mention that this system has no lights to tell you when it's on, really annoying, I tell you what. Here's a post I made that has the pinout for the cruise computer connector: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=909213&postcount=16 You should read the whole post as well since it will explain the issues with this system and turbos... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=909213 You might want to add the vacuum pump if you have a turbo I got 2 kicking around, one setup already for this... According to that, pin 12 green/red seems to be the best bet for power, so I would check that pin with a test light and see if it lights up. For this cruise system to work, it needs a couple of things. It needs the rpm signal, which you get from the negative side of the coil, it needs a vss signal, and it needs vacuum, which is very important and hard to come by with a turbo due to forced induction which mean positive pressure. There is a cruise "vent" assembly that should be located on the passenger strut tower. This controls the cruise actuator that is connected to the gas pedal inside the cab. This actuator is what controls the speed of the car, so naturally it has to work. So verify you have vacuum going to it as well. There is a check valve that should be connected to the engine vacuum coming from the vent assembly, so check it to make sure it is function properly. If it's not, then you might not get vacuum. Then you can check the actual switches to make sure they are working as well. If I recall, you can just ground out each wire to activate it. This should be mention in my linked to post. I did this when I added in the buttons onto the steering wheel. The cruise system is really simple actually, so it should not be too difficult to get it up and running. Here's a photo of the whole cruise system so you can see how simple it really is. It fits into a medium flat rate box no problem That's all I can think of off the top of my head, HTH!

1. Axles. DOJ will click on acceleration. My loyale clicked only on acceleration, replaced the axles, noise went away 2. If you lag the engine, this happens Why does it fluctuate so much? It should sit pretty solid at around 800 rpms. If you fix the fluctuation, the shaking should go away. HTH!

Do the maxima alt swap. Well worth the little bit of effort needed. The GM swap is good, but you can't fabricate something, then the maxima alt is the way to go. Talk to GD about getting an alt. I got mine from him and he sent it up to me with the pulley and all, so I just had to drop it in. It was really easy, and the improvement is awesome. No more dimming of the headlights with the fan turned up, or the stereo turned up, that sort of thing. Totally worth it!

If it works, it will works just fine. The TCU code is forgiving enough, that it will just continue to operate normally until it doesn't work, then it will go into a limp mode. There is no in between or anything like that. It's pretty black and white with these things Gotta love older, stupid electronics!

Only reason I suggested swapping out the TCU is because 15+ year old hardware can be unreliable at times, and they are usually easy to get to and easy to swap. Probably won't do a thing, but it doesn't hurt to be sure that it's not the TCU causing problems. Clay, this might be a dumb question but it hasn't been mentioned, did you swap the rear diff to match the trans? The rear diff has to match the trans or all sorts of bad happens...

You feel into the "might" category You should be fine with that little of a change. But I know for a fact, because this happened to me while modding my TCU, that going from 3.7 to 4.11 throws a duty c code and the awd quits working. The code had to be changed in order to get the legacy TCU to work with my loyale's 4eat because of the 3.7 ratio. The TCU is forgiving enough for close ratios, like 4.11 to 4.44, but not so much for bigger jumps. That's why I suggested it might help, but without knowing what the final drive ratio for the original trans, it's hard to say for sure that the tcu is/is not the problem.

Wow, that's a good man! You got a spare TCU around? I would try swapping it out. I have found that TCU do fail more often than people think. I got 6 legacy TCU's in my possession, and only 2 work and I know my trans is fine. So I would just try swapping out the TCU. I am going to write a post about this once I get a chance to consolidate all my research on this topic. Also just remove the TCU from the bracket it's attached to and let it hang making sure nothing is touching the actual TCU case. Something might be grounding itself to the case of the TCU, causing weird things to happen in the TCU itself.

Did you install the JDM TCU, or did you just use what was in your car? The 4.44 probably needs a 4.44 TCU in it. JDM not necessary. The shift maps are the only thing that changes from the USDM and JDM. Usually sportier shifts in the JDM, but not needed to make it run. The reason you need a 4.44 TCU is because if the ratios are off enough from the original TCU ratio, then the TCU can't calculate what it needs to because the 2 vss' are off, and it goes into "limp mode", which might be what is happening to you. What was the ratio of the original trans? The simplest thing to do would be to swap out the TCU and see what happens. It's a crap shoot if that will work for you, but it's the "fastest" and easiest option if you have a spare TCU available. After that you need to start going through the sensors and seeing what's up. The TPS plays a big role in determining shifts, same with both of the vss' and RPM as well. If any of those signals are messed up, then the trans MIGHT not shift right. You getting any codes?

+1 Do the drain and fill 3 times routine (search for it if you are not familiar) and that might help the torque bind... If it doesn't, find a trans out of a JY with a warranty and slap that in.

If we are going off of looks, then both the legacy's and EA's are UGLY AS SIN I am not going to lie about that BUT, I was not referring to looks, I was referring to functionality and reliability, and that's where the leggy's shine The one thing about the EA's that is really nice though is that they are smaller in every aspect, including price. The legacy's are big compared to the EA's in every way as well. But I digress... Either way it's good to know that a MAF can cause all sorts of problems, and that it's easy to just swap it out. Glad you fixed it man!

Or get a gen 1 Leggy instead... ea82 is NOT the best car ever , unless it's free I love'em, but the gen 1 leggy is sooooo much better its really not even funny. I will never have an ea82 for a dd again after buying my gen 1 leggy, if I can help it that is.

Umm, what? Can you clarify what you are asking here? Your questions and responses are really confusing Is your AT Temp light flashing 16 times at startup? What are the car's symptoms?

Thought mine were fine too. Several months later and trying to figure it out, finally swapped the axle, noise went away. Why do you think they are fine? Even new reman axle can do this same thing. Unless you replaced them with OEM, I would suspect the axles...

I will be rolling down in Jr: Too broke to afford the outback struts and tires I need for my 3" lift sitting in my living room Hopefully next year I will be lifted! Any hammers (Ham radio guys) out there? Would love to chat on the way down!

This looks like fun! Count me in! I will be in a stock leggy, so this looks like alot of fun with some good views!

Soap sometimes will leave a residue. I would rinse it off with some 99% rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner or something that evaporates and leaves no residue. You should probably be fine, but I always rinse everything that might be picky to residues off in alcohol to make sure there is no residue. Let us know how it goes!

Axles. DOJ to be exact, side closest to the trans. My loyale did the same thing. Clunk/popping on acceleration but not after I got up to speed, and didn't if I was easy on it, and not in corners. Everything solid up front as well, nothing stood out. Replace the axle, no more funny sounds!

What these guys said. This has been talked about before, and the ea82 does not really benefit from lower temperature, especially in the "performance" category There is not to much more performance that you can get out of this engine, its already tapped out! In fact people have noticed downsides to doing this (except for in the caribean apparently). GD knows his stuff about this engine, and OEM is the only way to go with the ea82. You may think the ea82 is a "normal" engine to be treated like everything else, but it's not, and it's quirky. Do a search and you will find several threads that explain this. HTH!

The ea82t has a hated history on this board, just do a quick search and you will find several people that have asked this exact question. Even though you have the MPFI, the swap still isn't that "simple", and it's really not worth it in the long run. The ea82 just can't hold up the power that well. It will pop at some point. I would suggest that you either do the EJ swap as suggested by GD, or just enjoy the ea82 for what is it, a decent, gets good gas mileage motor that is easy to work on, that can be reliable if treated right. It's not a power house or a race car. If that's what you are looking for, then I would suggest moving up to a legacy or an impreza... Of course anything can be done, just nobody has actually done what you are asking because it's just not worth all the work for what you end up with. I know the turbo SEEMS like a good idea, but it's really not, at least on the ea82. Not to mention that even with the turbo, the ea82 is not a fast car by anymeans. My 1990 NA leggy wagon, which weighs more, is faster than a ea82t wagon according to my butt dyno (I have/do owned both). HTH!

Yup just count, you can tell the difference between a long and short pause pretty easily. Keep in mind there might be multiple codes, so if it's flashing a "long" code, it's probably multiple codes separated by a pause. You will get it once it starts flashing. Took me literally 2 min to figure out what it all meant once I had the connectors together and the light blinking. Good luck!

Hi! Welcome to the forum! Your issues sounds like you are having some torque bind happening. But there are a couple of things you can do to give you an idea of what is going on. First is to insert the FWD fuse under the hood and see if that fixes the torque bind. If it does, then your clutch pack is toast. If it does not, then it might be the solenoid. This will at least give you an idea of what the stealership might tell you. Another thing you can do, especially if you just got it, or it has never been done is to drain and fill the transmission 3 times in a row, driving around for a few miles in between drain and fills. This sometimes will free up the clutch packs if they are just a little "gummy". You would be amazed at how much of a difference just a drain and fill can make! Even if you fail the FWD fuse test, I would still do the drain and fill, makes the whole trans work better, and just might fix your problem. Search for this on this forum, there are TONS of threads talking about what you need to do. Cost me about $50 to do this this last week, but it really help my trans out (I didn't have the same issue, but my trans is working better than it was before the drain and flush, that's for sure!). So I would do the FWD fuse test first, then do a drain and fill, and then see where you are at. Sadly if those suggestions don't fix your issue, then you are looking at spending some dough to get it fixed. If you are capable or can find someone who is capable, I would recommend finding a used one and installing that yourself. The 4EAT (if that is what you have) is a very stout trans, and junk yard trans' with a warranty are a good deal as they usually will work for 200k+ without too much issue. Much cheaper than what the stealership would charge you to fix or rebuild what you have now...

AC ripple will cause some very weird things to happen to any electronics that are in the car and ac ripple is introduced. So yes, having all those things act strange is "normal" for a failing alt. I would also replace the battery, if it's more than a few years old. Sometimes a worn out battery is what causes the alt to fail. Replace the alt and not the batt, and then a few months down the line the new alt fails. Even after charging the battery after this happened. Any sort of overcharge on normal car batteries greatly decreases it's lifespan and usefulness. So after all the weird stuff you have been having I would replace the battery, if you haven't already. Good luck with the repairs!

Dealer might have a Subaru Select Monitor, But probably not. That's the "old code reader" before they went to odbII. I got one sitting in my car right now I am borrowing it, but it's fun to play with. If the car is running ok with the engine check light on, then it could be the O2 sensor or the knock sensor. Both won't make the car run funny, but will throw a code. Both are fairly inexpensive and fairly easy to replace. BUT this is just a guess, the only way to really know is to pull the codes. I would just pull the codes in the dealer lot, right on the spot and tell him what's wrong with it. Then they know that you can't be messed with, since you figured out something they could not. Puts them in their place, while giving you the upper hand in bargaining with them. Sound like you got a good plan though. Good luck and let us know how things go!