eulogious

+1 I believe the thread is he talking about is the one with the delayed forward engagement. They used TransX, which is NOT a cleaner. No cleaning/flushing is EVER recommended with the 4EAT as it is known to cause MORE problems when you flush it than simply leaving it alone. Drain and fill 3 times is what is recommended, and if you have certain symptoms, then they recommended adding transx on the last fill. Not a trans flush or any other additives/clearners. Drain and fill is vastly different than a flush.

There is something up with your system, but what it is I really don't know. Its not really following the txv troubleshooting stuff. I would start looking at the sensors and seeing if they are all working properly... When was the last time any work was done on the AC system of the car? Maybe a good evac, suck down, and recharge would help a bit. This really isn't easy if you don't have access to the stuff though, so that's kinda a last resort. BUT if you do have access to AC, might be an option. Capn_r is the one who helped me with all my AC work, so he's the man when it comes to AC, IMHO

Good luck and stay cool, hopefully

Have you taken the car to somewhere that will grab the odbII codes for you? Your trans should talk to the odbII port I would think... I would just take it there and have them check for codes to see whats up with it regardless if it throwing a CEL or not. You said you found the connector, but not the ground wires? I think you misunderstood what John was saying... There are should be grounds available in the connector that you need to "jump" to get the code using a piece of wire as the jumper, you shouldn't have to cut anything to grab these codes. Find a pinout for the connector, find a ground, any ground in the connector, and then take a piece of wire and jumper the two together (the ground pin and pin3 (according to John, I cannot confirm this is the right pin) in the actual connector), and then turn on the key. The codes should blink at you telling you what's going on. No cutting involved. There are also a couple of other things you can do to try to diagnosis it without pulling the codes as well. I had to do this before I got my select monitor to view the codes since I can't pull the codes easily with my modded tcu. The first thing I would do is just reset the dumb thing. Pull the negative battery cable for 10 min to clear the code. Then drive it around and see if it comes back. Sometimes the TCU farts a code for no real reason. If the code comes back, then you do probably have an issue. Does the trans drive fine while driving around? Does the torque convert lockup up at highway speeds? What about the AWD, is it working at all? Can you spin all four tires in gravel? Any torque bind at all when driving it around tight circles? Any route that you take, you need to pull the codes to see what's going on. You can drop the pan and start replacing things, but without knowing what's all wrong you could just be wasting your money. Dropping the pan and replacing stuff is not hard at all, just time consuming, and resealing the transpan without leaks can be a PITA too. But as long as you can replace it by dropping the pan, then there is no need to take it into the dealer, you should be able to do it all yourself.

Hmmm... Too much charge, wasn't really expecting that! Here's a link to a good run down, troubleshooting guide I found that explains the AC stuff pretty well. Best explanation I could find! http://www.aircondition.com/tech/questions/82/ So after reading that, it does look like your expansion valve might be stuck open, causing your AC to act weird I am not an expert, but that does sounds like the symptoms you are having, not exactly, but a little bit like it. It seems like your compressor is fine, since it will compress up to 400 psi just fine, so that really only leaves one other moving part of the system, and that's the txv. Luckily the txv is only like $20, and it's super easy to replace it. The downside is that you have to evacuate the system, and then refill it. Unless you have access to this stuff, then it's no problem. Took me about an hour to a hour and a half of actual "work" to get it all done, including let it pull a vacuum for a good while. So it's easy to do, if you have access to all the AC stuff to do it correctly...

Thanks guys!

Nice, good find. Might come in handy sometime!

I agree with GD and Turbone... either enjoy the loyale for what it is, or get into an EJ series car. After owning a turbo ea82 and a legacy, I would take the lego any day of the week. Move quicker, handles better, quieter, you name it, it's better. BUT it cost more The ea82 I still miss and love and will have again, but it's biggest plus is that it is easy to work on, and will get you from point a to point b reliably, and cheaply. And it's great for that. So just enjoy the car for what it is An EJ swap just about solves all my "issues" with the ea82 for what it's worth. They are great cars!

I am going to link to this article again, because it expalins exactly what you are talking about, and apparently it wasn't read in his other theard when I linked to it, or else he would understand why a projector lens does not hinder light output at all, but helps it http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html I will quote the important part of the article that relates to this thread for fun as well: The last paragraph is the really important part of the quote, the first part is just for good reference, and to drive a point home Projector lens' shoot the light out farther in front of you and in a more direct light pattern giving you improved night vision, not hindered.

This. We ran it to this issue when trying to pull the motor out of my wrecked car and had limited space to work because the front end is smashed in. That rod stuck to the torque converter making it a PITA to get the engine out. If I remember right, the guy who was helping me described what ShawnW described when I asked him how he got it off. He ended up just taking the torque converter and everything attached to it with him, since I really didn't care about it, and it would have been more of a PITA to get it all off, than to not worry about it. HTH!

I have asked this in another thread and didn't get an answer, so I will try again here... Is it the AT light that blinks that means a electrical problem, or is it the power light? I KNOW that the older ea82 4eat, the at temp light flashed, but on the newer cars (well tcu actually), they started flashing the power light instead of the at temp light, at least on the 90-94 models. So did subaru go back to using the at temp light in the later model legacy's? Or am I just completely off with my facts? I seem to remember that they removed some of the lights from the dash, but I thought the power light stayed, and the manual light was the one that went away. The reason I ask is everybody automatically says, "Oh it's an electrical problem" if you have flashing lights, and this may be true, but ONLY if the right light is flashing. If the at temp light is NOT the light to look at for errors, then there is a whole other issue at play here that has nothing to do with the tcu, at least at first glance. If someone could verify this in a fsm, that would be great as well. I don't mind that people might "think" they are right, but having a few facts to back this up always helps. I would just look myself, but I don't have access to any FSM that would tell me this info...

1st step in trouble shooting is eliminating what the problem is not. For a 2001 car it is not unreasonable to think that you might simply be low on refrigerant. Doing a quick check of the refrigerant pressure would tell us that everything should be ok, and then we can dig into it some more. Low refrigerant can do some funny things to AC systems...

Good thinking man! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best one

Now this is cool. You will show everyone how to do this right That's killer man, can't wait to see it! If you want to find out what resistor to use to make the lights not flash fast, just measure the resistance of the light that is currently in the socket. All lights have some resistance, and this will tell you about what size resistor to get, well at least get you in the ball park.

Did the system complain about the air intake sensor? If the system said that everything is ok, then you probably just need a re-charge. What are the pressures of the high and low side? I would check those first before going around and testing stuff that they system says is ok. If your pressures are good, then I would start looking into the electronics some more, but only after verifying that your system has enough refrigerant. Until you get the pressures checked out, my guess is you are low on refrigerant.

Thinking everyone is out to get you can also be called schizophrenia and ruins lives This type of attack cannot be stopped by anything other than turning off your phone or just not using the service. Man in the middle attacks are almost impossible to detect, and almost impossible to prevent as well. Going around all paranoid, turning off my cell phone, and wearing a tin foil hat is not going to stop someone from stealing my car, after all, all you need is a rock, some wire cutters, time, and access to the car, and anyone can steal any car. Being paranoid is only going to ruin my life and make me a sad miserable person to be around. Coming from a computer security background, I have long learned to not be paranoid about these types of "hacks". I am just not that special, and same with 90% of the population. I am not "burying my head in the sand", I am being a realist. Seriously, nobody wants my stuff And if they do, there really isn't much I can do to stop them, especially in the virtual world. All I can do is make sure I am not the easiest target. Anyone who thinks that they can't be hack or their stuff stolen is a nut case. I am well prepared for when my computers do get hacked with backups and all that jazz, as that's really all I can do, which is be prepared for when I do get hacked. Same with any of my physical possessions, and the ones I really care about are in the 5 foot tall gun safe Its more a matter of when it will happen, not if. And I apply this mentality to everything I do, whether it be for cars, for my home, or for my computers. My motorcycle was stolen from me, and I got it back 6 months later. Did I do anything different the next time around to prevent it from being stolen? Not really, as they just really wanted my bike as I already had some good security on it, but they just really wanted it and stole a truck to transport the bike, and then threw the bike into the back of the truck. Beside bolting the bike to the ground, there was nothing I could do to stop that from happening. Come to think of it, burying your head in the sand is a novel idea... Ignorance is bliss, right? Man how I wish I could go back to not knowing how screwed up the world is! 5 year olds just don't give a rip about security, and boy am I jealous!

I understand about not wanting to mess anything up Have you read up on the different methods of controling spark with the ms1? It's a good read, and has lots of info about the edis setup. Might help you understand how it's setup now: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm That should at least explain what he was trying to do, and might help you figure out what he did and what went wrong to cause it not to run now. I love forums as well. I have learned a crap ton of info from this site, and many other forums. I love the free and open internet

The MS1 is a totally capable ECM. Weird older version? C'mon GD, I am rocking this "weird older" version, and there is nothing weird or old about it With a few mods to the board, you can do anything you want with the MS1, including full spark control of the stock dizzy or any other spark setup you want. Not to mention they still sell the MS1, so it can't be THAT old Here's a link to what you need to do to run spark from a MS1: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm I would call the MS1 more of a "hobbiest" ECM because of the mods you have to do to the board to get it to work the way you might want, and the MSII is more of the "Plug and Play" ECM requiring less mods to accomplish the same things. The MS1 might not be "out of the box" like with the MSII, but there is nothing really strange or weird about the MS1. I will be using the MS1 with my stock dizzy on my MR2 in the next few months, and then probably upgrading it to EDIS, without the EDIS module. Might even do a COP (Coil on Plug) setup instead of the EDIS, not really sure at this point, but I am removing the dizzy at some point so I can have more control over the spark. Have you checked out the tutorial about using the msII on a ea82t? Should have most of the info you need... http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_subaru_rx_turbo.htm Got lots of good info in there. They use a MSII, but with some creative thinking you should be able to accomplish the same thing with the MS1. Should at least give you a good starting point. I think the user "Chim" on here also setup the MS1 on a ea82t. Here's a link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108882 Looks like he used a 86 ea82 NA block with a turbo, so this should really point you in the right direction. Keep up the good work man!

Ya, and those rings are definitely not elite or anything I realize that legality is a moot point, but obtaining the equipment is still very hard, and only a few people can get it, so that makes you elite and above average if you can get the equipment I would say And C'mon now, I know we all love Subaru's, but they are not being stolen by these car theft rings either I would like to think so, but reality says Subaru's are not in super high demand by the very rich in the world

When my alt gets hot it usually because it's being over worked, especially with my stereo and all So if you don't have it wired up correctly, then it could be charging at full bore causing the battery to get all bloated, and the alt would get hot. In the previous link I posted that battery was bloating, so that tells me the alt was getting hot as well. So make sure you have the EJ alt wired up properly... Checking and attaching the last grounds would help as well. The power needs to connect to a ground to flow somewhere, and if there is not enough grounds resistance is created, making the alt work harder. So checking/finishing up the grounds is a good idea as well.

Just want to correct this statement as well. You are correct when you say that max ac means no outside air coming into the cabin, but what you don't understand is what else that does with the ac system, especially because of the txv. The reason that you turn on max ac is so that you can get the air flowing the fastest over the evap. The reason you want this is because you need to keep the evap at a temp that will keep the txv open. If you don't keep the txv open, the compressor will cycle, which is not what you want when you are adding refrigerant to the system or checking the system, or when you want the ac to put out all that it can, like when you press the max button. When air flows over the evap, the cool air is "lifted" from the evap and combined with the moving air creating cold air which cools the cabin, and at the same time causing the evap temp to rise and therefore causing the txv to reamain open to allow more refrigerant through to try cool the evap. If you are not using the highest available air flow setting, you risk cooling the evap enough to close the txv and cause the compressor to cycle off. This is why you run the ac on max, and the fan on high. This has nothing to do with the temperature inside the cabin of the car, and therefore there is no need for any type of coat at all, since you are standing out side the car working on the ac system. I don't understand why this coat keeps being brought into the picture and why you keep mentioning blending air. Seriously has nothing to do with the OP's question. Just need to make sure that there is no mis-information being thrown around here. I believe the low side should be between 30-40 psi, give or take a little. The high side should be about 2.2-2.5x the ambient temperature, so on a 80 degree day it should be between 176-200 psi, give or take a little. Good to know it's not the compressor. The rest of this statement tells me right off the bat that you are low on refrigerant, and here's why. One of the cool things (pun totally intended ) about ac is that the warmer the air outside, the higher the pressure is, naturally. Even without your compressor pumping, the pressure in your system will be higher when it's hotter outside. This works great because it allows for great cooling in hotter weather, all done naturally. This is also why I mentioned that the high side pressure is related to the ambient temperature. So when it's colder out there is not as much pressure, so the system turns off. But when it warms up, there is just enough pressure to turn the system on. It might also be cutting out on really hot days because the compressor compresses to much on the high side because of the pressure. The only way to create pressure is by moving liquid, and if there is not enough liquid to compress on the suction side, and the txv is closed, then all the fluid gets stuck in the high side, then obviously it will turn off because you will start creating negative pressure on the suction side because there is no fluid to compress since it's all stuck in the high side lines, causing the compressor to shut down as well. So my money is on low refrigerant at this point. But I am not a betting man, so take that for what it's worth I believe he is referring to a temp switch/sensor in the engine bay ( or somewhere...), not the txv. The txv is located right next to the evap. The temp switch will tell the ac compressor to not kickin/kick in depending on the ambient air temp. This is because the ac is used on the defrost settings, and during the winter, if the compressor turns on and starts cooling things down, things might start freezing and bad things could happen. So there is another temp switch that reads the ambient air temp to tell the compressor when to turn on based off the temp out side. But I do not know where that sensor is located... HTH!

Look at this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124891 Might help you out...

Let me see if I got this correct. If you turn the car off, then restart the car, the at oil light does not flash correct? And then as soon as you put it into gear, the atf light starts flashing, correct? If this is the case, this is NOT normal behavior. You should only get the 16 flashes (electrical issue) on startup, not during normal operation. If the light is coming on after starting the car, something is up for sure. But it sounds like you fixed that issue. Does the power light flash after starting the car? Do the outbacks atf light flash, or the power light flash if there is an electrical issue? On my 1990 leggo, the power light flashes, not the atf light. Did this change later on in the later years or something? On the loyales/xts the atf light would flash and NOT the power light, but they changed that to the power light on the leggo's I thought... Air bubbles shouldn't affect the sensor. What's the fluid level like in the trans, and what's the trans fluid look like? A drain a flush is not a bad thing at all, so I would what you are doing and see if that helps. That will surprisingly fix alot of weird issues with the 4eat.

Ya and $10K and some very special equipment later they are able to hack into it. Good times. Not to mention completely illegal to buy this equipment as a "civilian" as well. This doesn't scare me at all. This "hack" was done by someone other than the "average" person, and there is no way that anyone would be able to do this easily without special equipment, so really a non-existent "threat" if you ask me. Hacker conferences are great and all, but anything you see at them is really a not a threat at all, because only the elite can do this stuff, and that's a very small percentage of the population. This hack can not be exploited easily at all, which means nothing will ever come of it, at least for now. Very interesting though to say the least.

Thanks for proving my point. The txv is a metering device, meaning that it controls the flow. So when the compressor compresses enough, and the temp is correct, guess what happens? It shuts off because the txv won't let anymore refrigerant through, causing the pressure to build up on the high side, causing the compressor to stop compressing due to the pressure. Then when the temp rises, the txv opens, allowing refrigerant to flow and also causing a pressure loss at the same time, and naturally kicking the compressor on to raise the pressure. And this is called cycling. So thanks for linking to that, I really didn't want to do that earlier Argue all you want, but my kia, my folks' mdx, my legacy, my old loyale, and my mr2 all cycle so ya. I could go on and on with examples, but I will take what actually happens over what someone "thinks" happens