eulogious

Yes, cycling is normal behavior for some automotive ac systems. The compressor only needs to compress when it needs to cool, not all the time. That's what the txv is for (thermal expansion valve). Hence why whenever you add/fill refrigerant in an automotive AC system, you turn on max ac, and your fans on high. This is to make sure the compressor does not cycle. If yours is on all the time, then there might be something wrong with it, since even my wife's 2005 kia spectra's ac cycles. The last part of your statement I believe is just wrong all together...

Your in Roseville, eh? Well, I got a couple of transmissions I need to pick up in Turlock and Roseville, and it looks like that trip just got bumped up to next month due to my transmission acting up. Hmmmm... I might just have to stop by for a day and help you out with this, seriously. I can't roll though Roseville without helping you, I just wouldn't feel right at all. So I will throw this offer out onto the table. If you still need some help with wiring come mid September, I will extend my trip another day and help you out with the wiring. Granted I have never done anything like this before, but I have wired in paddle shifters into my car along with remote start and a couple "big" stereo installs as well. So I am very familiar with wiring and what not, so it shouldn't be so bad... All I ask for is a place to crash (couch) and some food/beer What exactly do you need done? If we could have diagrams and all that ready to go, that would make it alot easier as well. LMK if you are going to be around mid September, and lets see if we could get this killer car wired up!

These look sweet Glad it worked out! Also thanks Rob for showing how to CORRECTLY add HID/Projectors in a car that was not designed for them. This is rarely done, so good job on doing it right and proving that it can be done! Good stuff man!

So you can actually tell that the compressor's clutch is not engaging after a while? The AC button is pressed, but the compressor's clutch does not kick in, correct? Have you hooked up a(set) of gauge(s) to see what your pressures are at? I would at minimum check the low side to see where it's at. As a test, turn on Max AC and set your fan speed to 4 and let it run for a while and see if it turns off. The compressor should not cycle in this mode, and if it does, there is something wrong somewhere. This should rule out too much pressure building up in the system triggering the high pressure shut off switch. If the compressor's clutch is not engaging after a while when it was before, try wiring the compressor right to the battery and see if it comes on, after it has stop working. If it does come on, then the compressor is most likely fine, it's probably a wiring/sensor/relay issue, not a mechanical issue. If the compressor does not come on, then most likely there is something up with the mechanicals of the system.

Are you asking what wire to cut, ? Or just making a comment, I can't really tell

This has nothing to do with opinions, safety is not an opinion! Sure I added some colorful language in my statement, but it's all about safety, period. Having super bright lights knowingly blinding people is a serious safety risk to the public and is illegal, that is all I am saying.

For the record, he did it the PROPER way, not the stupid "conversion" way mentioned here. He followed the exact steps in the link I posted to do it the correct way. This is the ONLY way HIDs should be done.

Wow, these are the most arrogant, selfish comments I have seen in a while. Seriously. What happens if the oncoming driver get temporarily blinded because of a medical condition (this can happen FOR SURE) and then they swerve into your lane because they can't see and hit you, all because of your lights? Your lights aren't going to do you any good when they are all smashed up and your car totaled now are they? Is you vision that important then? To sit there and say that YOUR vision is more important than anyone else's is completely foolish, stupid, selfish, and just down right rude and arrogant. YOU ARE NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT HAS THE RIGHT TO DRIVE, and you are not the only one on the road either. Driving is a PRIVILEDGE, not a right, and honestly, people who make comments like yours should not have the right to drive since they obviously missed the point that they are not the only ones on the road. A car is a weapon and can KILL people if it is not used properly and others rights are not taken into consideration. As soon as people forget/blanatanly don't care about others, they should have their license revoked. Seriously grow up guys. You just showed your real ages, and spoke like a naive children with lots of growing up to do. Now for the education part: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html Read that article. It explains why HID conversions are bad and ILLEGAL in every state, and a TON of countries around the world. There are reasons for this, it's not just "for fun" that HID conversions are illegal. I don't like going off like this, but wow. I had to say something about this. Drives me nuts to see someone KNOWINGLY blinding people because it's easier for them and not giving a flying f@$k about other people's safety/lives. It's one thing to accidentally get and install the conversion without knowing what you are doing, but to install them knowing that they WILL blind people, and then to openly say, and admit that it will do just that, and that you don't care about other peoples safety is just not right at all. Just wow. I am done now, and I will not respond to this again. I just read that and needed to get that off my chest. Oh, and if people are flashing their brights at you and you are running "legal" lights, ADJUST YOUR DAMN LIGHTS! It's not really that hard, seriously.

Wait... what's this! When did you move over to this side of the mountains? Where about in Oly you at? I work across from the capitol and live off the yelm highway, right before oly turns to lacey. What time you thinking about leaving on friday? Any of you guys living up north want to meet up on your way south? There's a couple park and rides right off of the freeway we could meet up at. Might be out of the way though, depending on the route.

I am down in Oly and plan on leaving Friday late morning. Going to take my time and make some stops along the way (maybe), so I would be down with a convoy... Either way I am taking off on friday

Looks like an auto since he mentioned "putting it into D". When was the last fluid change? Sounds like the solenoids are just a little bit gummed up, but start working after everything gets all warm. If you haven't did a trans fluid change lately, start with that and see where it gets you. Look up "4eat fluid change" on here and you should find the drain and fill 3 times method.

The reason the TCU will shift differently when in cruise is because it uses different shift maps for cruise. The TCU has a cruise input to tell it when the cruise control is on, and when it is on, it uses different shift maps for "better economy". That's the reason for up-shifting more frequently when in cruise. This is with factory cruise of course. Dealer/aftermarket systems are different of course. So with that being said, you could probably just clip that wire going form the cruise to the TCU, and it would never activate those shift maps because it would never know when the cruise is on. Don't think this will throw a code either, but I am not sure on that one. That would solve the "weird shift issues" while using cruise. Well, it at least lets you use the non-economy shift maps, which may or may not be better... I am also fairly certain that the TCU DOES NOT learn anything, at least not in the early years (ODB1?). It's not in the code to learn, and there really isn't any space to store it either. I am 95% positive on this, since I did spend several hours/days going over the disassembled code when modding my TCU. It was hard to find space to store the new code that was added to my modded one! I can tell you for a fact that no matter how long my TCU is unplugged it acts the same way it did before I unplugged it. I have spent hours troubleshooting different TCU's while driving around with them plugged in, removing my modded one and what not, and there has never been any difference in the way the car acted when using different tcus, at least when using them in the "stock" form. This was true on my loyale as well, not just my legacy. In stock form, both the TCU from my legacy and loyale shifted and acted the same way. Any "learning" that's done is all done by the ECU, which does affect the way the TCU operates. My guess is that once the ECU learns the different driving style, it sends different signals to the TCU (probably more like different timing of the signals, not different signals...) which will cause it to operate in a different way.

I looked at my 1992 FSM, and sure enough there is a wire coming from the ECU that ties into the alt circuit that is NOT there in the ea series cars. So there is SOMETHING else that helps with the charging circuit. I couldn't find much more info on this wire or what it does, but it does exist and it is not found in the ea wiring. Since you came up with this el_freddo, why is it needed with the EJ stuff and not the EA? What wires do the letters correspond to? I am interested in knowing why this is needed on the EJ stuff and not the EA stuff...

Either tap into the fuse box, or just run your own wire from the battery. You don't want to tap into just any wire, the circuit should probably handle about 10amp for the stereo alone. So if the stock wire is not there, just run a new wire from the battery to the deck. HTH!

Thanks, the car was in great shape until I ran it into a concreate median going 70mph down the freeway Here's its current state: I loved that car. Oh well... The tires are only about an inch bigger, so there was no real power loss. Granted it was a turbo ea82, so there is a little more power , but I did not notice any real difference in "performance". The tires are cheap if you can find them. These were les schwab "winter force" snow tires. I liked them. They at least filled up the wheel well a little bit better. They are getting harder and harder to find in the bigger 13" size though. Took me a little while to hunt them down when I got them a few years back. Good luck finding the tires man!

I gotcha. I usually just pour it on in while it's running. Never really thought about letting it sit, good idea, will have to try that next time... Sorry, I don't really know where the fuse is for the ignition, so I can't help you on that front. I have a 1990 legacy, so I am sure things are a little bit different between our cars. Good luck!

185/80 From les schwab. Starting to get really hard to find. These are snow tires:

Why do you need to pull the fuse for the ignition? I thought the car had to run inorder for seafoam to work. At least mine was running when I did it... Unless I am missing something here?

Glad it worked out! Thanks for the part number as well. I will be ordering up one of these in a couple months, seems like the "cleaner" method for sure. Please post back if you end up having any leaks using the new gasket!

Well branded could mean alot of things, not just that insurance was involved. Insurance is just one way to get a branded title. Here's a generic break down of what a branded title could be, the laws differ state to state but it gives you a good idea of what could have happened: http://dmvanswers.com/questions/166/What-is-a-branded-title If this was somewhere other than the PNW, I would agree, but for that much money, there are just too many other subarus I would check out in this area for that price, that don't have any baggage involved, like a branded title. This area is just too ripe with subarus to settle on one that has a checkered/unknown past. Don't get me wrong, it seems like a nice car. Low mileage and all that, and if it was repaired correctly, it could be a good car. That branded title just makes me look the other way with all the good subies for the picking in this area.

It would probably work, but what worries me is that it's a generic webpage. It doesn't mention anywhere on the page about subaru, expect for the product details. And from the pics, it doesn't look like the OEM alt. And it also says UP TO 200 amps, it doesn't really specify what it puts out. If it was me, I would be wary about that one... Might work, might not. Not enough detail about the product for me to be comfortable in spending $175 on something that might work, IMHO.

To me branded=no value. $4400 for a branded car, no way. Maybe $1500, maybe. It's just not worth it to me anyways. You can get a good car for that much money that does not have a branded title or a questionable past. Keep looking, you will find one that's even better. That's my take on it

This is what I am going to get... http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hioual.html 140 amps for $230, 160 amps for $285. Uses the stock case and everything. It should be a direct bolt on, no mods required.

Funny how that works sometimes, eh? Glad you figured it out, and it didn't cost you that much! One suggestion though... I would go back and splice those wires up better. Don't know how good you are with a soldering iron, but I would highly recommend that you go back and solder and heat shrink those wires to make sure that you don't have another problem. If you don't want to solder, I would atleast get these to crimp the connections: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104092 These are better than butt connectors, and they are easier to use. Just one crimp. Glad you got it going though!

Ya, I forgot that you have done that. Make sense to just remove the computer and power the shocks yourself. Good tip