eulogious

Rallyx eh? LMK, I would love to see this thing in real race action!

For safety. When adding any wire to your stock system, it should be fused, especially one that carries 100amps. You see the same thing with high amp stereos. In fact I have a in line fuse holder that I am saving to do just the exact same thing once I upgrade my alt to a higher power alt. So props to the OP for wiring it up "The Safe Way". The fuse isn't required in stereo comps usually because it's shorter than 18", but when something can pull 100amps over a wire, better be safe with a fuse than without. Thanks for showing this as this is something that I will want to do. My setero alone pulls 110amps at full tilt, so the 100amp alt would almost cut it for me What all was needed to do this swap?

Good work guys! Good to see some cool stuff stuffed under that brat of yours You should stop by here again on some of your adventures up north so I can take a ride in your brat again

I had an injector fail on my lego after I got it. First thing I would do is pull each individual wire and see if that changes anything. If it was like mine, the second plug wire I pulled didn't change the way the car was running, so I new it was something to do with that cylinder. So I would start by pulling each individual wire and see what happens, and then report back here...

The only way to truly fix a leaky sunroof is to tear it completely out of the car. It's really not THAT bad. I had to do it with my 1990 lego. 3 hours to get it out, one hour to seal it up, and then 2.5 to reinstall. Make sure you have a helper, it's not really heavy, but awkward, and having a helping hand is a must. Also compressed air is a big help as well. That way you can blow out the drain tubes once it's all out. Take your time with the interior bits, as the plastic gets old and brittle, and you will break a few pieces as well. Here's my post I made about fixing my sunroof: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=965574&postcount=19 Has all the steps needed to do the job. I followed this and my sunroof now works great and doesn't leak. This all is assuming of course that your sunroof assembly is still in working shape. If it is not, at least it is out of the car, so replacing it isn't that tough. Just find one in the JY and swap it out. So no matter what you do, you are going to have to drop it to find/fix the problem. If your BF is an autotech, then this shouldn't be a problem at all for him to do, since the process is almost the same for ANY car with a sunroof... Good luck, and I will try to answer any questions you might have about doing all of this!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110121&highlight=torque+bind Surprised that didn't come up in a search, since I have found, fixed, and took pics of the process on what it takes to fix it, well what usually is the culprit anyways. TCU errors are not hard to find at all. The TCU is really stupid, especially in the older legos. The pins trace right to the components, and there are very few components as a whole compared with some electronics, so tracing what needs to be traced is really easy with these primitive computers. Using the same process, you can figure out what other components might have failed as well. I have a TCU, well two actually, that I need to fix. One has a bad duty B transistor, and the other a bad duty c transistor. So this is not an uncommon problem. In fact any computer that is coming up onto 20 years old is going to run into issues like this... So if you are daring and good with a soldering iron you should be able to fix you broken TCU right up! I can help you as much as I can as well with any questions that might come up... Either way, glad you fix it!

There you go! Thanks for the info, learned something new

i believe the XT is 5 lug, meaning that the calipers won't fit. Look up the "five lug swap", and I believe the xt calipers are an option for that, and that should answer some of your questions. Maybe someone who has done the five lug swap will chime in. Good luck!

Thanks to a buddy of mine that just received his d710 I was able to see how it would fit into my car: It fits perfect! And with the GPS in place of the pocket, it will be all nice and tidy, out of the way, and I won't have to worry about clutter, all wins in my book Now I just have to wait for the money

So after all the quakes that have been happening, I finally got started on something that I have been thinking about for a long time, and that is Ham (amateur) radio. Because of where I work, I have a co-worker who is the communications guy for the EOC (Emergency Operations Center), and we have been talking alot about all the cool stuff you can do with ham radios, and how valuable they are during an emergency, not just for emergency workers, but for us citizens as well. So I am going to be getting a mobile ham radio for my car, and then tying GPS in with it to provide real time tracking, all without using the internet. Well, you can use the internet, but it is not required, it just adds some neat functionality to it The radio I am getting is the Kenwood TM-D710a and linking it up with this GPS unit from garmin, the Nuvi 350 How this all works is by using APRS The Nuvi 350 as the ability to propogate the APRS info via waypoints (with the help of a special cable) in real time right on the GPS, without the net. So I can see other APRS users in my area, and other APRS waypoints that others have setup. So that is all cool and what not, but it's neat when you tie websites like http://www.aprs.fi into the aprs network, and then anyone that has your call sign can track your progress in real time! This of course is just one thing APRS can do, but it's the most "popular". I am getting it so that emergency workers can find me via their radios when there is no other means of communication. And that is where it really becomes cool. For search and rescue, it's sweet, and for survival, it's sweet as well, and that was the main reason for getting into this, but it's also a sweet toy, and I like sweet toys, so I am installing all that into my car too So after I get back from vegas, I should have some money to buy all this gear and then install it into my car. I plan on semi permantly mounting the GPS right about the HU, and putting the ham radio directly below it. I think it will work out perfectly once I get done fiddling with it!

Alrighty, it's been a LONG time since I updated this thread, but I have been really busy working on the car lately, and got some stuff done. What I have been busy working on is the stereo, and what a job from hell it has been, but I got it done. I installed my Head Unit, my MB Quartz speakers and tweeters, the xovers for the speakers, my basscube, 2 amps, and my 12. Pictures speak a 1000 words so... This is my head unit, my Kenwood x869. Great head unit, just make sure you don't drop it while it's on and totally muck up the motorized face :-\ That took over 4 hours to fix. That's the inside of the HU. The belt slipped some teeth causing the face too close to tightly and the HU to freak out, making it useless. So I had to fiddle fart around with tiny arse screws for hours to get it to "work". What a PITA. It doesn't close quite right, it's still a tooth off, but I really don't care, it freaking works. As you can see I mounted the HU below the 1.5 din pocket I bought so that I would have access to my cupholders AND HU controls at the same time, imagine that! So I can change the volume while actually using the cup holders, something subaru didn't think of! Next up was the speakers and the tweeters. I thought this would be easy, and it was, it just took longer than I thought because I just used what was there instead of buying speaker spacers and the like. So it took a little bit to figure out how to use the existing spacers. But I got it done. Worked out just the way I wanted Then came actually installing all the amps and gear into the spare tire well... All of that down one side, and 0 gauge power wire down the other Then I was left with this ugly mess: A few days later I worked on making it look good... First got to make the template... Then cut it out... Then arrange it all pretty like... Wire it up Better... Ahh, that's much better It took me a little while, but I did finally get it all installed. But I did decide to add some more electronics to my car, but I have to start another reply since I can't post anymore pics in this one...

No problem I work graveyard, so this is really about 2 hours into my day You can get a lot of info from the ODBII port, and if there is a spot on the board of the new TCU's for another chip, then there is a chance that you might be able to do some hacking with it. Where there's a will, there's a way! Good luck man, and if I can help, feel free to ask!

No... The only reason why this worked was because the older transmissions, phase 1, used a CPU that was easier to use and program for, AND subaru was nice enough to leave the diagnostic chip holes still there, so all you had to do was tap into what was there. I believe they took that out with the new stuff. But I could be wrong, as I have not looked into it, but the newer stuff is a phase 2 4EAT, and it talks with the ECU alot more that the phase 1 stuff because the newer stuff is ODBII, and the older is ODBI. So the modified ROM code wouldn't supply the signals needed by the ECU anyways, so nothing would work. You would not only have to figure out a way to get another chip onto the newer TCU, but then also come up with some new ROM code to make it all work. So it is possible, but not using the methods that I used here, and it's totally out of my ability to do Hope that helps!

Just grab one from the junk yard, year really doesn't matter, to a point. I have a 1990 LS, and I replaced my attenna with one from a 1995. Had to splice the plug from the new unit onto the old wires, took like 5 min, and it worked like a champ. So I can imagine you should be able to do the same thing, or something similar with your car. Ended up costing me $8 at the yard. There are only 3 wires to work with I believe, and I just guessed and got them right on the second try Good luck man!

Thanks for that I do remember you saying that they were different, but I did NOT change the TPS on my loyale when I swapped the TCU, and the TPS value was not changed in the ROM either, and it worked just fine. I think that the code has enough tolerance to be able to over come the differences. But from experience I rocked it for 6 months without an issue using the stock TPS and the legacy TCU for my turbo loyale. But it could be different with the SPFI, since I don't have one it's hard to tell. The person behind the genius of the paddle shifters (presslab) didn't have any problems either, I did ask him about it in all my research, but he also has a turbo wagon, so our TPS' are the same. So with the SPFI it might be different and cause issues, it's hard to say. Only one true way to find out, put it in!

Lucky for you I had this EXACT same problem, and I fixed it. The TCU is bad. I would swap out the TCU. I traced all the wiring back, and even dropped the trans pan and replaced the solenoid, and I was having the same problem. So I replaced the TCU, and the problem went away. Now if you want to just override it, that's easy as well. Find the wire (Connector B33, Pin 5 in the diagrams below) and apply 12+ going to the solenoid. I would of course wire up a relay and a switch, but that should be all you have to do. The solenoid will lockup when it gets 12v+. I don't recommend doing it as it will probably fry the solenoid at some point and make sure you fuse everything properly, but if you don't care about any of that, then have at'er batter! There's my disclaimer. These pics are of a older legacy TCU, but the wires haven't changed, and these pics were handy. I actually have the complete FSM for a 1995 legacy on my computer, but I really don't want to look for it, so there pics will do. The wires are the same either way. Personally what I would do is test the resistance of the circuit itself and see if there is a short in the circuit, or if the solenoid actually still works before I would go cutting wires. If you need help with diagnosing your Duty B solenoid, then just ask!

+1 Hood and fenders are different. Don't be like me and find out the hard way Like GD said, they are about an inch longer. If you don't pay attention, it's hard to notice...

I don't see why you couldn't make it work... The only things that the TCU and the ECU talk to each other about is the RPM signal, TPS signal, and VSS1 and VSS2, I believe. So if you find all those signals and tap into them, the TCU will be happy and will just work. The TCU and the ECU are really 2 seperate circuits in the Loyale. I put a legacy TCU into my loyale with a 4eat, and I only needed those signals to make it work. So in theory as long as you have the TCU, you can make it work in just about any car. Especially the older TCU's. They are REALLY dumb, and only need a few wires to make them work properly. Make it fit shouldn't be a problem either. Hell, I got my wrecked loyale hanging out in my garage with no motor, and the 4eat just sitting there. You could come pilfer what every you wanted out of it. I got the TCU and all that jazz. I would even sell you the trans for cheap, and I mean cheap and you can take whatever you need, including all the trim pieces to make it look stock. I just want it out of my garage at this point. It worked just fine until I rolled it. But whatever. I really don't want to part it myself, but if you want to come and take anything you want, you are more than welcome too. I hope that helps a little bit. Look up my thread on putting a legacy tcu into a loyale, and I believe I broke down all the wires needed to make it all work in that thread...

Too bad you gave up on the subaru, but you did try freakin' hard to keep it! But I understand wanting a reliable car, and having a stalling car that you can't figure out isn't reliable at all. But good on you for trying What type of car did you end up getting? One thing that I have noticed is that alot of the information found here can apply to any application, you just need to be creative sometimes, but the bulk of the info is useful for any car. I have used some of the skills I have learned here to work on fords and kias, so feel free to search around here if you need some answers. Lots of smart people on this board. Hopefully you will own a subaru again one day!

Good stuff :cool: I always feel better having soldering stuff, lets hope the car feels the same way

Oh, and for the record, no I am not broke from fixing my subaru. I am broke because I support a family, and my wife lost her job due to injuries because of a car accident, you rump roast. In the last year I spent about $100 on normal maintanence items, that was it (if you don't count rolling your car over on the freeway and totaling it and buying a new subaru). Everything else I fixed by using good ol' elbow grease, common sense, and this forum. I would NEVER spend $750 to "fix" a car that wasn't fixed. Let alone have a prospect of spending $1800 to $2500 to fix a car. That's just silly. I have resources and I don't mind getting dirty myself and helping out, and that saves TONS of money. Not to mention I am not an rump roast, so people tend to actually help me out. I just had to comment on this because it really pissed me off. I was going to let it go, but after the latest comments, I had to say something. Man some people! Really, I am done here now.

Wow, really? Now you are going to attack me? Whateva man. I was just trying to have a "spirited" debate with you, but obviously you have no idea how to do that. Notice how I never called you a fool for buying a hyundai? That would be mean, and not the point of this forum or any of my posts for that matter, even though its a very true statement, and one I would say to your face as well. I have given examples of what I know and what I have worked with and seen the difference in quality when these cars are torn apart. I probably have pictures to prove this, but you are not worth the time it would take to find the pictures to prove it. You have mention NO experience what so ever to back up your claims but to say you have "owned one" and are "older and wiser" so you must be right. I really hate it when people confuse experience and age. They are NOT the same thing. Yes you are older, but wiser, not so much, or we would still be having a "spirited" debate instead of personally insulting the other side. Anyone who walks into a Hyundai dealship isn't going there to buy the best car on the market. They want a cheap, reliable car to go from point a to point b, nothing else. And when that car breaks, they go get a new one, they don't fix it! Ok, so you are apparently the exception, but that doesn't change the rules! They are cheap, throw away cars, nothing more, nothing less, and there is nothing wrong with that. It's just not a subaru, or any other quality vehicle for that matter. I think the price tag is pretty much all I need to prove that point. Remember that the only guaranteed things to come with age are blindness, bad health and a failing memory, not necessarily wisdom and virtue, let alone respect. You have to earn those last three. And with that, I am now unsubscribed from this thread and done talking to you about this, I have much better things to do with my time.