eulogious

Once you drive and own non throw away car, you will understand. Obviously you have yet to do so, or you would be agreeing with me Been there, done that, and you haven't, so really you can't say whether or not the hyundai is better. I can. Its not. I have owned both types cars for several years and can say that with confidence. You on the other hand have not, so you can not say otherwise, well at least you can't with authority. You can say all you want, but it doesn't mean much Have fun man, or not... I am done here

Cool, sounds good! Let us know the results!

I wasn't quite sure either, that's why I just said to put it back to "stock" after soldering the connections, then we can at least rule out the connection, and start working on the real problem, if there is one... Hopefully it's something simple like the connection, and nothing serious. Edit: Honestly butt connectors are ok for most things, I just don't trust them for every situation. And in this case, there were no code before, used butt connectors and now there's codes. So I would guess that the butt connectors have something to do with it. I do use butt connectors myself for certain things, like installing my keyless entry, and even on parts of my remote start (not on the ignition wires). But if you think about it, a butt connector is like a little antenna when adding it to wire, so it will pick up more noise and amplify it just because it is adding more metal to the circuit. Solder and heat shrink add very little metal to the circuit and keep the wires more "in spec" if you would. Butt connectors are very useful tools, but when it comes to sensitive electronics I would stay away from using them if possible.

The first thing I would do is remove the stupid butt connectors!! I would NEVER use them in the engine compartment, especially on something like the TPS that is super sensitive to begin with. Solder and heat shrink are going to be the only way to go for any type of sensor. So with that being said, remove the butt connectors, and then trace all the wires in the harness back at least 12" and check for corrosion replacing any wire with new using solder and heat shrink. If there is no corrosion, then put the original TPS back on with solder and heat shrink. Then clear your codes and start over once you have a clean, solid connection, and tell us what happens. Butt connectors are a great way to add resistance to any circuit, they just aren't designed for that sort of thing. When you are dealing with sensors, they are usually very sensitive to any sort of added noise, and a butt connector is a great way to add noise. Butt connectors are great for things that aren't sensitive to resistance, like lights, and other accessories, but they suck for sensors...

I am not being hypocritical at all. I own one. The title will be in my name in the next couple months. So I am WELL aware of what it is like to own one, so everything I said is true and coming from a current kia/hyundai owner. Oh, and don't kid yourself about that warranty, it's really a joke. In my kia, the hvac vents just shut them selves on their own, randomly, for no reason. Heat and AC. So during the winter, the heat just stops working, and during the summer the AC just stops. And when I say stop, I mean NO FLOW. The fan runs, but no air comes out anywhere. This happened at 12k. After taking it to 3 different dealers and wasting about 300 miles on gas, and going several days without a car or using a loaner, we still had the problem. And it was supposed to be covered under the "bumper to bumper 36K" warranty. The dealers never believed my wife and I, and all they did was replace some relays, and this was after me yelling at them do to something about it. What a joke. Still deal with that today. At least the heat works in my Subaru! So if something does go wrong, have fun dealing with the dealers and trying to actual prove there is something wrong. They really don't like to deal with warranty work, and it shows. Oh, and not to mention the shimmy it's had for the last 50K as well. Didn't even try to take it to the dealer for that. What was the point? They would just blame it on the tires and send me on my way And as for it being a throw away car, ya it is. No one cares about them. There are no forums, well good ones that actually have useful information in them and I have looked long and hard trying to solve that damn shimmy. But no one cares. If it breaks, well, just trade it in for a new one. Why bother to fix it? If I wasn't so broke, I would be trading it in for a subaru instead of keeping it, that's for sure. I will just throw it away. It's not special, even my wife says that now, and she used to like it. But after 6 years, she just wants the heat to work, and not to have a shimmy. Luckily we have the subaru so long drives are actually comfortable. And that whistling that you mention is an easy fix, squeeze that part of the window with a pair of pliers and it fixes it. If you searched here you would have found that out because people actually care about fixing their subaru's and share that knowledge, unlike kia owners Oh, and I think that issue was also covered under warranty as well. I am just saying But I will say that we have had no mechanical issues at all with the kia, so I can't fault it for that. It has gotten my wife around safely for 6 years, so what more could I ask from it? I even drove it for a while before I got my subaru because my other car had some major issues, and it's not a bad car at all. It goes from point a to point b just fine while getting 30mpg and just changing the oil. Am I impressed by it, no. Would I buy one again, probably not. Would I recommend them to people, depends on the persons wants/needs. Am I going to install $1K worth of stereo stuff in it and keep it past 100K and do the proper maintenance on it to keep it running good, yes. But will I toss it like yesterdays garbage as soon as I get the chance? Hell yes, because that's all it was made for! My subaru will see many, many, many more miles than that kia will, why? Because it's a better car, and not designed as a throw away car. I can tell just by taking the car apart. The kia feels "cheap" compared to my subaru when it's tore down, and my subaru 20 years old! The subaru just has better quality parts in it. More metal, less plastic, easier to take apart, more sound proofing, seats are more comfortable, and I could go on and on. Again, nothing wrong with the kia, it's just not made to last, it's designed as a throw away car, and it shows when the car is tore down. But it still goes from point a to point b just fine Like I said early, the hyundai will give you years of trouble free service, so enjoy it! The most important part is that you enjoy the car you buy, and it sounds like you do, so that's all that really matters Good luck with the car, and hopefully it will treat you well!

Too bad you gave up on the subaru. I will say this much about the Hyundai, have fun with your throw away car! I have a 2005 kia spectra (re-badge hyundai) with 89,000 on it, and it rattles more than my 1990 Legacy w/151,000 on it, and my wife can't wait to get rid of it for a subaru, and a used one at that because she likes mine so much better than her newer kia! They are good cars to get from point a, to point b, if you want anything more than that, you will probably be sad with it. Either way, good luck, and enjoy the maintenance free hyundai! Hopefully you will be back soon!

Update time, it's been awhile! I got my paddle shifters setup installed, and I also wired in my manual button like I wanted to, but not before the xmas tree run. Could have used it there, oh well. But I got it all installed and working, and I like it alot, I forgot what it was like to have paddles. I finally got tired of using my key to unlock the door and I installed my power door lock motor I had laying around in my drivers door, and wired it up to my remote start to give me keyless entry finally. What an improvement! The nice thing is that subaru actually makes it pretty easy to install a door lock motor in the drivers door, there is TONS of room It took me about two hours to install the motor, run the wires, and hook up all the relays and everything to the remote start. Not to bad. Now when I lock or unlock my car, all my doors unlock Here's some pics on what I did: I went to lowes and picked up a small aluminum piece to mount the motor to, and the rest was pretty simple and self explanatory. Works great! I then took the liberty to hook my domelight and my map lights up to the keyless entry as well, so when I unlock my car, my domelight and maplights both come on to light up the car. It's super nice, especially working nights, since most of my time is spent with very little light outside. It's nice to have the maplights come on as well, lights up the whole front area of the car. I like it alot. Wiring in the dome light was a piece of cake after doing it in my loyale, the same principals applied to this. Find the ground wire going to the domelight in the passenger side "A" pillar, splice into it, and then use a relay to send a ground signal down that wire causing the domelight to come on. And it was that easy. Here's some pics for ya... Note: Just a PSA... You can use butt connectors are still have a good connections, you just need to do it right, and make the crimp with the right tool. I use vise grips, and only vise grips to make any crimp connections I need and I also make sure I strip enough wire for the connection to be good, and so far NONE of them have come loose over the last 2 years. So if you crimp them good, they work well. BUT this is only for inside the cabin of the vehicle AND doesn't require/flow alot of current. Anything in the engine bay, exposed to the elements, or that requires a lot of currect/flow should only be soldered and then heat shrinked. The only stuff I soldered was stuff that was easily removable so that I could sit down and use a bench to solder. There was one connection with the diode I did not do this to, I soldered it in the car, but I don't like to do that. It's a pain. So most of this was done using butt connectors, and by applying some heat shrink where needed, and I have no problem trusting my work, for now anyways Wiring up the maplights was a little more difficult than I thought it would be, but nothing major. I ended up using 3 diodes to get the result I wanted. In order to get the map lights to work, I need to apply 12v+ to the map lights, but in order to get the dome light to work, I needed ground, so I need to wire up 2 relays. 1 to send out a ground signal, the other to send out 12v+. Once I wired up the relays, I took out the maplights and I solder a new wire to each light, and then wired in a diode on that wire to prevent 1) when turning on one maplight you turn on the other one as well, and 2) to prevent any "back feed" that might come up when using the keyless entry and the maplights at the same time. Diodes were perfect for this as they only allow voltage to flow in one direction, so it was super easy to just solder in some diodes and secure them. I ran into another problem that was fixed by using the 3rd diode. The way I wired up the relay, which was the simplest and only required using 2 relays instead of 3 or more, made it so that when ever the dome light came on, it ground the relay for the maplights, causing the maplights to come on as well. This seemed good until I realized that WHENEVER the dome light was on, so was the maplights. That was annoying and no good, so I just wired in another diode to prevent that from happening, and all was well. Luckily I had a few diodes laying around I must say that I am getting better at this 12v stuff, as diodes were the first thing that came to mind when I encountered these problems. A year ago I don't think I could say the same thing. Go experience! Here's some pics of the maplight and what I did to make it work for me: The diodes I just covered with heat shrink and then zip tied them so they are secure. Since they are so small, I wanted to make sure they didn't get bent and break when re-installing stuff The one for the dome light I secured to a butt connector so that it had something stiff to be held to. Worked out good. So I am finally done with installing my remote start, I finally got every option I wanted wired in. Took me a while, but it's done! Now onto the stereo... I haven't started on the stereo install quite yet, I am still waiting on some breakers to come in, and they should be here next week. But I did get some new front speakers, and my zx500 sub amp came to me as well. So that will be a nice 700 RMS going to my 12 Nice little upgrade from my 500 RMS I had in my loyale. Here's a shot of all my gear, including all the RCA's, power cable, speaker wire, and phone cable needed for my install Here's all that's listed: MB Quartz RVF-216 6.5 with JL XR crossovers, Kenwood exceleon x869, SLD44 line driver, BassCUBE w/remote, PG ti Fused Distro, PG RCA's, PG RSdC124 in a 1 cubic foot box, PG zx500, PG zx450, 16' 0AWG power wire, 130' of Memphis 16AWG speaker wire, 40' of 4 wire black phone cable, and some monster RCA's that I am cutting down to 3 foot lengths to connect my line driver to my system. Matching sub (zx500 2 channel) and mids/tweet (zx450 4 channel) amps: New (to me) MB Quartz RVF-216 6.5 with JL XR crossovers: This should be fun getting it all into my car I think that does it for now, more to come once I find some time to start on the stereo install. Since it's warming up now, I need to get out to my garage and take some crap of my loyale No more using my folk's warm garage for the next little bit, back to my cold, cramped, small garage!

I totally want to get a bigger setup, but that can't be in the cards right now. There is a 26 gallon Craftsman compressor that does like 5.5cfm @90 psi for sale for $100, it's a little used you can tell, but still a good deal. I would have totally gone for it had it not been total lack of space AND portability. I live in an apartment complex, so my options are limited as to what I can get away with. They don't mind be pulling a motor out of my car in plain sight, but having a big, loud, compressor hanging out in the garage might not be so discreet. That and something that big is going to require some juice, especially on startup, so anything that pulls more than 15amps is probably going to blow the garage circuit, which I don't have access to, so I would have to tell the apartment people to go flip the breaker. Talk about a DEAD give away, so I can't be having that happen. This little guy doesn't pull enough to trip the circuit, and it trips itself, not the circuit. I found that out yesterday So I want a bigger setup, I just can't have one yet I don't plan on moving for at least another year as I just resigned my lease this month, and it's not looking like I can afford a house anytime soon, so apartment life is in my foreseeable future, so I just can't get the bigger setup. That's what made this little guy so attractive. Small enough to throw into the back of my subaru without having to move the seats or ask for help and take it over to my mom or a friends, but yet powerful enough to run my air tools for the little bit I need them. And cheap enough to really not think about it too hard, hence why I just did it Cool, good to know that if you take care of HF tools they will last. Go figure Treat most things right and they will last. I just know that some of HF stuff is so cheap that I don't even try to use it and I can tell by just looking at it, but he air/power tools look like they are not junk for the most part. Thanks for the input Cool, then it looks like I will just get the cheap 3/8 and then save up for the 1/2 bad boy. That does sound like a good plan. Thanks for the idea. Really hadn't thought about getting 2 Also good to know that the cheapy guy is "fun" to use as well. I know that some things are not fun to use at all, but you use them because they make the job "easier", so its good to know that you kinda enjoy using it, thanks for that I just went out and started it today to see how well it would start compared to yesterday, and the break in made a big difference. When I started it yesterday in the "cold" (45 outside), it would barely move the piston twice before tripping it's breaker, then I started turning it off to prevent it from tripping it's breaker, and it finally got going. I had to turn it on, then turn it off 7 times before it finally kicked in and ran normal. Today it was 35 outside and when I started it the compressor was slow pumping, about 6 or 7 times, before I turned it off, but it never stopped like it did yesterday, and it only took 3 times of turning it on and off before it started working like normal. That's a big improvement. So breaking it in makes a difference. I am glad I did that I did have to throw it in the back of my wrecked subaru and shut the doors to prevent it from being super loud So atleast I got one final use out of the old car So it looks like on pay day I will be buying an impact gun and an impact socket set at HF Wow, so I meant to post this yesterday 12-29-10, but I got busy and my reply literally sat open in my browser just waiting for me to hut submit Sorry about that, I now submitted it! Anyways back on topic Thanks for the insight so far guys! Anyone else out there got any to say about HF tools? How about some recommendations of tools that you used and liked? I am slowly building up my tool arsenal, so knowing what to buy and to not buy really helps a broke guy like me Thanks again all!

Howdy all! So I have been wanting to get into this whole air tool thing for a while, but never really had the true itch to spend the money on buying stuff because it all seemed so expensive. Well, then my dad decided that he wanted to upgrade his harbor freight pancake compressor with the bigger harbor freight 10gal 2.5hp guy, so he gave me the old pancake compressor. But I had to go out and buy the hose, fittings, etc., if I wanted to use it. So it sat in my garage until xmas time! I asked for some simple stuff to get me going on my new to me compressor, hose (25ft goodyear pliovic hose, none of that chinese crap ) , an air ratchet, fittings, just the basics. So I got all of that, put it all together out in my apartment garage , fired her up (and she worked after sitting for a year, not to mention it's 5+ years old), waited for it fill with air, and then let loose with the air ratchet to see how Mr. Pancake would handle it. Well, as you all could have guessed, it fell FLAT on it's pancake face. Dropped down to unusable RMP's within seconds. I was kinda figuring this would happen, but I was hoping it wouldn't... So what to do? Well, after seeing this 5+ year old HF compressor still work and pump up, I decided to look into HF some more and man they got some killer deals! So after looking around their website I found their "deal of the day". It was a 8gal 2HP 125 PSI Max, 4.5 CFM@90 PSI compressor for $89.99 (Linky)! I then googled this bad boy up and checked out the HF reviews and saw basically nothing but good things about this compressor, so I printed off the coupon and went down first thing in the morning and picked it up. Took it home, filled him up with oil, and fired him up! This is a nice compressor for $89.99! I also got the extended warranty for $20, so in case it fails, it's covered. The big test was going to be can this thing actually do 4.5cfm? So I hooked up my new air ratchet and tired it out, and it totally works fine with this compressor! If you just hold down on the trigger, it slows down to probably 100-110 RPM compared to the 130 RPM or so you get when you burst it, but it held 100 RPM for a good 15-20 seconds, which is plenty of umph for what I need to do. And ya, I have to wait for it to air up after using the ratchet for that long, but for what I need, that's perfect! I don't mind waiting a min for the compressor to pump back up, no biggie to me! From what I have read, this compressor will also work with impacts as well. You just have to burst them, but they work just fine, even the big 1/2" to 3/4" ones. Again, that is really all I need it for. I also picked up some other do dads while I was there as well. I picked up the $15 regulator/drier (Linky) because it seemed better quality than the regulator that came with it, and it included the drier. The reviews said that it leaked, so I took it apart and resealed all the threads with new teflon tape, and it hasn't started to leak so far, so my fingers are crossed. Also got a nice tire chuck (Linky), and the air accessory kit (Linky). The air accessory kit has some crap in it for sure, like the quick release which I did not use, but the other things look nice and work well. The tire inflator is really nice, glad I got that guy as well. Makes airing up tires super easy and convenient. Here's some pics: My first setup with Mr. Pancake: The new setup: Here's my new air ratchet: One of the first things that I did once I got it together and working was to break it in. I left the compressor running for about an hour, then went out and changed the oil. Boy I am glad I did that. That oil was NASTY from the break in. So bad that I changed the oil, let it run for 10 more min, and then changed it yet again to make sure I got all the sparklies out of the oil. A little overkill, but I want this thing to last as long as possible On that note... Has anybody ever used the HF air stuff? I know some of it's junk, but some of it seems like it's great stuff for super cheap. So if anyone has any insight into some of the HF air tool lines, LMK as I am looking to get some more stuff coming up here. I am really interested to know what their impact stuff is like and how it holds up, like their sockets and the impact gun it's self. The earthquake stuff holds up in the reviews but still makes me a little nervous. I am just courious if I should go for the cheapy HF stuff (Linky), or just save up the "expensive" HF $85 3/8 impact gun (Linky)? My gut says I should just pass on the cheap one and save up and use a 20% off coupon for the earthquake one and just be done with it. Or is all of this stuff just junk? If it is, then what is a good, cheap, suitable replacement? I am talking about a retail chain that I can walk into and purchase stuff. I am really new to this stuff, so any insight would be great. I am also cheap, so paying for cheap things, I realize what I might get. But I have also found some really good cheap things before, so one never knows. I basically just want some good, decent tools that will do light duty once a month when I decide to work on my cars. I do not want to go out and spend more that $70-$80 on a single tool. So snapon, matco, that sort of thing I am not interested in at all. I am not going to be doing anything that is actually going to tax any of the tools I buy that much, hence why I am looking at cheap tools And so far HF seems to have some decent stuff for cheap, which is why I am looking at HF, not elsewhere. I wouldn't even mind craftsman stuff, but they are kinda expensive when compared with HF I found this link which is great. It gives links to products from HF that people have used and liked before, so you can kinda weed out the junk that way. http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/08/buyer-beware-a-harbor-freight-buying-guide-the-good-enough-the-bad-and-the-abysmal It's a little outdated by now, but most of the stuff is still available. It's a great article for sure!

Wow, gotta love the all the hate for the ea82t sometimes I am not going to get into what you should do with the motor of the car, that seems to be well covered here be some folks already. I will throw one more link in here that may be helpful, and is a little more in depth to what northwet has said. He started the thread, but lots of people chime in and talk about the ea82 in general. It's a good read and gives lots of background: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115825 Took a little bit of digging, but I found it. Thought it might be helpful and give you some good background on why people have said what they have about the ea82t. I will reply in your other thread regarding leaving... Good luck with what ever you do man! Have fun with the ea82t, it's a fun motor while it last

Drivers door does not actually have a motor, it's just a switch. That's what controls all the locks. Lock the drivers for they all lock, unlock the drivers, they all unlock. Unlock an other door and it just locks/unlocks itself. I put a motor in my drivers door and untapped switches on the door to luck and unlock. So I converted it. Kinda a pain though. Glad you fixed it!

Do keep in mind that there are some 3AT's out there, and they are NOT electronic, so you can't do that mod. In fact most of the autos in the EA series cars were the 3AT's. I believe the 4EAT came out in 1987.5 and was only offered like I said until 1990. So very few of the EA series cars have the 4EAT in them, and usually only the turbos and the "upper" end models. Just a little FYI

Are you referring to me? Last time I looked I wasn't GD Ya, 1990 was the last year the EA82's got the 4EAT. It's the same trans as the legacy, so Subaru wanted people to spend more money on the "better" car and trans combo, and then cheapied out the EA82 to make them less appealing :-\ I have a thread around where I did it and I showed what wires to do what to, and all that jazz. The wire colors are a little off, and the TCU is a PAIN to get to. Just look up my thread where I did it for all the info...

As long as you have a 4EAT, then it is the same. I did the mod, then I modded a Legacy TCU to run in my loyale. Worked just fine after modding the firmware for the different diff ratios. So there is no working differences between the two transmissions, at least according to the TCU. There are a few differences between the EA series 4EAT, and the EJ series 4EAT just minor changes, mainly for reliability and what not. Like adding a few more clutch disks here and there, that sort of thing. Nothing major. But they can swap back and forth by just swapping the bell housing and keeping the diff's matching. If you need info on the diff lock mod, there are several thread that detail it around the net, but it sounds like you have that under control. Hope that helps!

I have gotten the privilege to ride in Jacob brat, and even though he was driving nice so he could actually get some traction, you can tell that the thing has balls! The high compression with the low torque range is a really sweet combo. If you are serious about getting more power, the cams and an ecu tune will get you probably the most power for the least amount of money and work. Tuning the ECU can be expensive though...

No he didn't have the engine in the car, it was on a table, hehe. So I could see it being a pain, but it would be worth pulling the motor for though it I think with all the work you've done so far, what's an engine pull at this point?

same thing happened to me, well not the gas part Mine quit working 75 miles from home with no code, and then fixed itself. Then a few days later started back up and this time threw a code. Injector 4 I believe as well This seems like it's the "1st gen injector failure" year. You are the third, if not fourth person to have injector issues in the last 3 months Just swap that bad boy out and you should be good to go!

No need to remove the heads to take out the cams, just the valve covers I believe. I think that's all ski did when he put in the torque grind cams in scotts EJ swap rig... So nothing major needed to be done I could be wrong though, but that's why I was thinking about it, it seemed pretty simple and straight forward and the heads stayed on...

My bad I thought you had the 2.5 Ya you could see some improvement with an ECU tuning, but if you are going to do that, throw in some torque grind delta cams, then tune it. That will show big gains in torque, which in turn leads to more passing power. That's what I would do... I might do the torque cams anyways, I hear they are fantastic!

I was going to recommend paddle shifters since it gives you complete control of the trans before and after passing, but figured it would have fallen on deaf ears The power mode mod is sweet. Don't know if it actually makes the car faster, or just seem faster though Either way grounding a pin on the TCU and installing a switch is a super easy mod to make the car feel more "sporty". As to the "autotragic" comments, I LOVE my auto and probably won't go back to a stick for DD use EVER. Auto's are awesome for driving around town. Add in the paddle shifters and you can drive it like a manual till the day the motor quits. But yet my left foot never leaves the floor. I don't get as tired in traffic, and I am more relaxed when I get to my destination. The 4EAT is a STOUT transmission, and if it does not last its because it WAS NOT taken care of properly. My last one had 215,xxx and it was still going strong before I totaled the car... There is always the franken motor option as well since you are getting up there in mileage and have a 2.5 block to start off with That will add some passing power for sure! All without adding any boost hehe. Or a 50 wet shot of NOS works just as well. How about some methanol injection? Or how about a flux capacitor hehe, but I digress. Have you done the power mode mod yet tom? Let us know what you think of it after having it for a little while...

Looks good man! I like the spoilers I have always wanted an imp like yours, I just think they are sweet cars. But my arse is to broke to be able to afford one, so I just stick with the leggys Wheels paint black correctly and on the right car look sick. Black wheels don't fit every car, but when they do fit, it looks fantastic. I have a feeling Zap's will probably look fantastic when he's done with it

The computer would be the last thing I would suspect. What was the condition of the injector that you replaced the original failing one with? Was it used? It just could have been bad as well. Hard to tell. Have you ohmed out the injector to see what it says? I would just try swapping out the injector again with a known good used one or a new one and see if that does anything. I would blame an old, used injector before a known working computer/wiring harness. I ran into the same issues with my 1990 legacy a few weeks back, and I just swapped out the injectors, well the hole fuel rail actually, and haven't had a problem since. Hopefully your spare injector is just bad and it's nothing serious

Interesting, and good to know! Thanks for looking that info up! And to just clarify my offer, I was only looking for about $100 for all four of the shocks ($25/ea)... So if you just need something to go in in a pinch, LMK (not to beat a dead horse, just wanted to clarify that I was not looking at new outback struts, but old/used ones , so no worries if you are not interested...) You should post up some pics of your ride once you get the Forester struts on it It should look pretty good! I really like the look of a gen 1 lifted leggy