eulogious

No worries, good luck with whatever you do! I will have them just kicking around if you are ever in need!

If you don't mind waiting, I am going to be swapping in some outback struts and installing a 3" SJR lift on my 1990 Legacy Wagon, and my struts only have about 20k on them. I used to have air ride suspension, but the PO swapped it out when a shock failed. So they were replace about 20k ago. So I would be willing to let them go for fairly cheap. I would let them go for the price of outback struts, if/when I find them. My plan is to do this in the next couple months (end of January at the latest), so if you want to wait I could give you mine. I might be able to do it sooner, I just need to come up with money for the struts to do my lift, so if that happens, then I can have the struts out sooner. PM me if you are interested if you can, I will watch this thread as well (you might not be able to PM). This might work out good for the both of us

Here's the "geeky" break down of the power button, and what it actually does in the code. Kinda cool if you like that sort of thing like I do http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/powermode.html

Little late to the party here, but better late than never! Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped get me unstuck! I hate being that guy Oh well Lessons learned: You NEED good tires if you don't want to get stuck, trust me! Second lesson, I should have installed my paddle shifters and DCCD knob. Then I could do 2nd gear starts and lock up my AWD. I was not able to do that so that kinda hindered me. So I should have installed those before heading up there. Next year I will have my 3" SJR lift installed with some 27" Bighorns, so traction and clearence shouldn't be an issue! I should also have my paddle shifter setup installed, so hopefully I won't be that guy again! Maybe I will be able to stay longer too if I am not so tired from working GY, meh. :-\ It was great meeting everyone and being able to put a face to the name. Thanks again Qman, Zap, Turbone, and anyone else involved with setting this up, it was fun! Hope to see you all next year!

It does still lock the TC up, just takes a while at cruising. It's does make the car feel sportier than stock for sure, and I really don't think it effect gas mileage that much. When I use my paddle shifter code for my TCU it uses the power shift maps, and it's alot of fun driving around in power mode all day long. Even on the freeway it will lock up the TC and give you decent mileage. I have even heard of guys just keeping it on all the time and not really noticing to much of a difference in anything other than having more fun driving around. Good stuff Thanks for the write up on this!

Ya, I am glad that I didn't have to do it myself, and I am glad the previous owners just put in new ones so I don't have to worry about new shocks for a long time Well, the remote start isn't really "hard" to install, it's more time consuming. It's only 8 wires to get the remote start part to "work". It took me about 2 hours to get it to start my car, and then another hour to "clean up" the install with split loom and hide it. This doesn't include the 2 hours of bench time I spent with the remote start unit cleaning up it's wiring and labeling it that I didn't do before from the person I bought it from, and then also wiring up all my relays for the keyless entry and so that the remote start unit can control my map lights and my dome lights (turn them on and off) when I unlock/lock my car. I have yet to install the door lock motor in my drivers door, so I haven't wired in the map/dome lights either, so that will be another good 2-3 hours to install the actuator in the door, and then wire up everything else. So I would say a good solid 8 hours of work to install the remote start and keyless entry the proper way, and have most of the features work that I wanted. And this is being well prepared and familiar with the remote start and with Subaru's wiring in general. I pretty much new where to find all my wires without even really looking online for any help. Granted I did find alot of help, but being familiar with how Subaru wires stuff helps out a lot as well. I also removed the ignition switch so that I could solder and heat shrink all my wires to the ignition harness so I will not have any issues with that in the future So removing the harness, soldering everything together for that took a little bit of time as well. You could not do this step and use something else instead (I used wire nuts and zip ties before and didn't have any issues, but I didn't like it, but at the time my soldering iron wasn't hot enough to solder the ignition wires so I had to use wire nuts) but I wouldn't really recommend doing that. You could also use "wire taps" but those SUCK and FAIL over time, so I would not recommend using them. I ended up using butt connectors (crimped them with a pair of vise grips to make sure it's crimped) to wire up the remote start unit it's self, and all is well. Just make sure you crimp the connector VERY well, and you shouldn't have any issues But I digress... So I would say that installing a remote start system is not for the faint of heart, that's for sure You had better have a good understanding of relays and how they work, and also a good 12v understanding in general about proper fusing and when/where to fuse and why you actually fuse as well. I added in about 8 more fuses total with everything, so knowing when and where to fuse properly is very important, especially if you are going to start your car without actually looking at it and sitting in it when it starts. Fires are bad, and they are very bad if you don't know they are happening Fusing is SUPER important when doing anything like this. Also this was my second time installing this remote start as well, 4th time installing keyless entry/alarm/power door locks, so I was familiar with it before I started installing, and I am somewhat familiar with this type of work, and that helped alot. The first time installing this in my loyale took me about 10 hours, and that didn't include the power door locks I can honestly say that after installing this one into my car, this is the only one that I have really done the "right" way. It took 4 times to figure out what not to do, and when and where to do what, and what works and doesn't work. And this was all by trail and error basically and LOTS of research and reading. I guess my point is, unless you have tried this type of thing before, I would probably just pay someone else to do it , seriously. Unless you like to learn of course, then I can point you to some great websites to give you some good background on 12v theory. Here's a link to the unit I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/VALET-562T-CAR-VEHICLE-REMOTE-STARTER-START-562TB-/330495871513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf316ca19 Granted I bought mine used for $20 , and it has been one of the best $20 I spent! Granted it was used, but who cares, it's going into a used car! So they pop up on ebay for cheap every once in a while. A month ago or so there were a few of them for under $40 new... I also want to get this guy as well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180588192600&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI This would just kick arse! You can program it to turn on at set times, and it also displays the temp inside the car and can start the car if it gets to cold inside the car. Kinda useless unless you sleep in your car at night But cool none the less. Just for the scheduled starting alone it's sweet. One of these is on my x-mas list, and if I don't get it for x-mas, I will be buying one right afterwards! Thanks! Ya, I love my "mouse fur" seats, they are great! I like that term, it's a great way of describing it Hopefully I am just about half way through it's life, so it should give me many more miles to come! So far this car is just fantastic, and I still love it! The next thing I am working on is installing a "4wd" button in my car so I can lockup my AWD whenever I want to. This is possible thanks to my modded TCU and it's DCCD knob I realized that I don't really use my DCCD knob that much, and when I did it was really just for "4wd", that and the switch I found is expensive, so I can up with a new idea... My new plan is to use my "manual" button on my gear shifter since it is not used at all with my modded TCU, but there are some logistic issues I need to workout before I can use it. Like it sends a 12v signal down the wire when the button is off, but a ground when it's on... So I's got's to think about it some more, but that's my plan. That way I have a button that looks completely stock because it is, and then I also have a light on my dash telling me when it's engaged, so I can never accidentally turn it on and not know it's on and ruin my MPT clutch pack. I hope to have this done before the x-mas tree run! I do plan on adding in an actual knob to allow more control over my AWD, but for now this will work great. That and it will be nice to just push the button on the side of the shifter for "4wd", and not have to turn a knob I will post more once I get this done!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=963942&postcount=14

I have been there to man. I had a 1987 GL-10 a few years back, and when I got some money I threw almost $2500 for a "new" ea82 and trans. Found this board several years later and kick myself for being so dumb. But live and learn. Too bad your mom is hell bent on wasting her money at the stealership, there are WAY better options. Granted they might take time, but I got WAY more time than money, so guess which option I would choose? But it sounds like it's not really up to you, so it is what it is. I am not saying that the dealership will do shoty work or anything like that, but they are trained at selling things like cars, warranties, and repairs, so it sounds like they got your mom real good and scared for her little baby boy My guess is that is more the reason why the new transmission is the "best and only option" rather than the actually transmission options themselves wether it be used from CL, the board here, or the JY. Most JY also offer warranties on stuff like that, so you would think that would help sooth her mind. That and the difference in price! But whatever, the stealership did their job and got a new tranny out of your mom As for the comment that if the JY trans is bad it's a lot of effort to swap it out again... Uh, no it's not, you have already done it! I know with me the 2nd time I do ANYTHING, I usually do it about 2x faster than I did the first time! So after doing it once, a tranny swap should be no big thang at all! But I digress... Don't let this whole experience burn you on Subaru's either. Doesn't sound like it will, but just keep that in mind. Once you get all the regular maintenance done on it, it should run for a long time and give you years of trouble free miles. I love my subies alot! Glad you found the board as well, so at least you can see that they are more options than just taking it to the dealer. So now you can have some goals to get better at working on cars so that if this happens again it won't be a big deal at all to get down and dirty to "git-r-done". I know that my mechanic skills have improved greatly do to the board here (thanks all!) so hopefully it will do the same for you! Good luck man, and keep us posted!

Remove the sunroof and then use compressed air to blow out all the drains while it's out. I just did that on my legacy because the seal went bad, like what's mentioned in the TSB. Took me about 3 hours total to remove it, fix it and reinstall it. I also had my dad help me out to have another set of hands which was much needed. So if you have someone to help you out, it will go ALOT faster than if it was just you. I would go to the yard first and pull one, then you can see what it takes to take it down. Sounds like yours is kinda messed up anyways, so replacing it might not be a bad idea. That way you can destroy the JY car and not yours when trying to figure out how to remove it I would also stay away from the stealership on this one. The labor alone will probably be $500 if not more. So if you are capable, do it yourself and save your money! Good luck man, and post back if you fix it!

Dead battery. Get it tested and most likely replaced and you should be good to go! Any local auto parts store should be able to test the battery for you... Good luck!

Ya, I really like this wagon compared to my Loyale. I do miss my loyale, but it's not because of the ride I don't have any new pics, as I really haven't done anything to him besides fix the problems that keep coming up with him. But hopefully I got them all sorted out for now... The air shocks were replaced at about 125,xxx, so fairly recently, with new regular shocks. The air shocks were to expensive to replace, so they went with normal ones. Glad they did that and not me I was stoked when I found out that I could fix the door locks with just a paper clip! That was one of the best finds so far Took me no time to accomplish that task, so that was fantastic! I will post up some more pics once I do something more to him. But for now I don't really have any big plans, as I don't really have any money to complete some of the projects I have on the back burner. So when I get some cash and make some progress I will post up some more pics!

Yup, that's what I plan on doing now, just make sure you include the rails like legacy777 mentioned... I am going to be on the look out for the redtop injectors and ECU at the yard... I didn't do anything with the O rings. I just used what was there, so I guess yes? to your question?

I just did that for you, glad you found it

I updated my thread yesterday and was just a few threads down and answers your question exactly as this is what I just went through http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117696 Hope it helps!

Ok, so I gots impatient and I installed the remote start this afternoon, and it works great! :banana: Just in time for the freezing weather! It's not completely installed, meaning that I haven't wired up my keyless entry, and it's not installed to my liking, it's just installed so that it works. Since I need to add my keyless entry stuff to it, I figured why button it all up now So it works fine, the wires are just a mess under the dash Meh. I will fix that up later this week. Man I missed my remote start!

I have some more info here regarding the use of the "redtop" injectors that was interesting and makes sense. This is qouted from Legacy777 on legacycentral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=45526&p=345310#p345310 So there is some more info about swapping the injectors for the redtop ones. You should grab the ECU as well. Makes sense that they made them flow a little bit more and then changed the ROM on the ECU accordingly. But good to know! I just thought I would add this info for the good people here

It's been a while since I updated this thread, and a lot has happened since I last posted. While I was up in Seattle, injector #4 decided that it didn't want to work anymore, so I limped my car home to find out that it had "fixed" itself. That was temporary, and it started acting up again. So I headed of to the JY to pickup some "new" injectors. I got it up and running, but found out some interesting info about injectors, see my thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=972291#post972291 So I got that all fixed up, but I still hadn't gotten around to looking at my duty b problem, as I still had that issue. So I finally got around to installing my modded TCU into my car, and low and behold that fixed my problem! I just had a bum TCU! :banana: That made me super happy for sure. Having a sweet arse mod actually fix something is fantastic! I also got around to removing my remote start from my totaled loyale, so now all I have to do is install it I told myself that when I fixed all my mechanical issues with the car, then I would start adding all the fun stuff, so now that all the mechanical issues have been addressed (and then some ) now the fun begins First is going to be the remote start, then the stereo, and then the lift. The lift is going to be the hardest/longest part to do since I need tires and outback struts before I can really lift it. But at least it will start with a push of a button, and my tunes will sound just effing fantastic, so that will tide me over till I can come up with the money for the rest of the lift and some good tires Hopefully this week I will start installing the remote start, but we shall see how ambitious I get over the holiday weekend. Turkey tends to kinda kill of any motivation after eating a boat load of it But hopefully it will be starting from inside my house very soon

I believe you are correct on this. I saw those injectors in my research but really didn't go any farther than glancing at the pic of them. They seemed like the disc type with an improved spray pattern, probably subaru trying to get the best of both worlds. But this is just an assumption on my part, since I didn't really look into the red top (later year) injectors while researching I just glanced and the pic, but it would make sense that they would do that. Yup yup, and this would tie into possibly why the red top injectors have different holes than the earlier injectors, to save on cost by only needing to stock and make one type of injector. I guess that's what I get for buying a car that was produced in 1/90 It was probably literally one of the first few to roll from the factory. So it only makes sense that they would find a good compromise at some point in the future, since it is kinda silly to have 2 type of injectors when it really isn't needed. Now when I go to a yard, I am going to be on the lookout for the different injectors and the rails (red top) to just have on hand, since I still have one grey top injector. So it will probably be a good idea to have a backup set on hand. Thanks man! I just don't like not understanding what I am doing or changing in my car. If I change something like an injector that looks and seems completely different than the one I am replacing, I want to know the most I can about what just happened. I am just anal that way That's why it took me 4 months to do my paddle shifters, I wanted to understand assembly language, which I had to teach myself… Good times, but speaking of paddle shifters and gas mileage… So earlier today I decided to install my paddle shifter TCU into my car to see if it even worked, since the chip I got that has the firmware on it was "damaged" by USPS, so I plugged it in, and then I got no powerlight flashes!! I took it on a test drive and I finally have torque converter lockup as well! YAY!! :banana: Paddle shifters for the win! Who woulda thunk that 10 months ago my paddle shifter project was going to solve my transmission duty b problem? I love it when a sweet mod actually FIXES your car instead of messing it up So I guess I won't really be able to test my gas mileage since I fixed my trans problem and my gas mileage should get ALOT better now that I have torque converter lockup. Oh well, I don't think that the different injector is really going to make a big difference in the overall picture when it comes to gas mileage. Whatever. At least I know my car isn't going to blow up now! I am on a subaru fixing roll here! Now time to remove my loyale's disk brakes :-\ Thanks for all the help everyone!

Alrighty, After spending some hours reading up on injectors, I think I might have a clue as to the differences in the injectors. Not really why subaru used 2 different types (I do have some ideas), but at least the main differences between the 2. I came across this site that showed the different type of injectors, but didn't really lead me to anything conclusive: http://www.sdsefi.com/injectors.htm Then I found this... To qoute http://importnut.net/ignitionfuel.htm : I highlighted the important part... So that at least told me about the different type of injectors, pintle (auto) and lucas (manual). Now I was getting somewhere. After some more searching I found this: From http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=703652 : I highlighted in red the important part about the lucas injectors. Then I came across this tidbit from nabisco http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96571 : I highlighted the important info here as well... So putting this all together, this is what I came up with regarding the differences in the injectors, and why subaru might have used the two different types, instead of just sticking with one type. So feel free to correct me if I am wrong on this Here it goes... So with the pintle type of injector (auto), you get a good spray pattern going into the cylinder at all times, and this is important in the lower RPM range for better fuel economy and what not. This is important on automatic's because the car spends most of it's time in the lower RPM range under normal driving. I know in my car I barely go over 4000 RPM on my way to work, so having a good spray pattern makes sense in an automatic car, since it's normal RPM range is lower than that of the manual cars because the computer keeps it that way. So in order to make up for some of the loss in MPG, Subaru must have used the pintle injectors to try to offset the MPG loss that comes naturally with the design of the auto. I should also note that the pintle type of injector is more costly to make as well when compared to the lucas disc type of injector. So due to the pintle injectors being more money and not as efficient in the upper RPM range, they only put them into the auto's. Now the lucas injectors (manual) apparently perform better in the higher RPM range, which is great for a manual car since it will spend more time above 4000 RPM than an auto would, so it would make sense to use the injector that works better with more airflow (higher RPM), hence why that type of injector was only used on the manual cars. This is my theory anyways, so please correct me if my logic/thought process is off Another thing I noted was that both type of injectors flow the same, and that changes with the turbo models of course, but other than that, both type of injectors do flow the same. So at the end of the day, it looks like the only difference between the two injectors has nothing to do with the computer used or different sensors that are used, but has more to do with cost and MPG, go figure One thing that I will keep track of is my gas mileage to see if it changes at all. Of course since my trans is refusing to lockup the torque converter, I don't get very good gas mileage as it is, but I will keep an eye out and see if it changes any. It's good to know that there really isn't a difference in the injectors, just the implantation of the injectors themselves, that is unless my mileage changes drastically, then I will look more into, but until then it doesn't look like there is much of a difference between the two. It's also good to know that the ECU can compensate for either type of injectors as well No need to replace anything besides the injectors themselves As to the colors, I found nothing that really helps me out there...

This uses a transfer case to provide the "dual range" and "4 wheel drive" so it still does not fit a "4EAT Dual Range". I also don't even think that there is a 4EAT in that car anyways, the 4EAT would choke and die on itself if it had to haul around that much weight all the time. It had a hard enough time with the SVX, let alone a rather large SUV like the Isuzu Trooper. It's not AWD either, it's RWD with a 4 wheel drive transfer case which would make it not a 4EAT at all. Just because there is a "Subaru" badge on a car, doesn't make it a Subaru Still looking for this infamous dual range 4EAT...

Yup, I got 3 "black top" injectors now and one gray top. The black top one was in my car when I bought it. Never noticed it running funny. The injectors that I pulled came off of a 1990 legacy with a manual transmission. Here is the passenger side fuel "rail", this is the actual one I pulled: And here are the ones that I pulled from the drivers side of my car: Here is a shot of the "manual" injectors installed on my drivers side: And here is the passenger side, keep in mind I did not touch this side at all: All I did to install the injectors is remove 6 bolts, pop out the old injectors, pop in the new injectors, and then re-insert the 6 bolts. That's it. So this is why I am curious as to why the different injectors, and what is really different between the two. Because right now my car runs fine with a mix of manual and auto injectors, and the ECU isn't complaining at all. To quote Gloyale from another thread: and this statement is backed up by my recent adventures. So I still wonder why the different type of injectors? There must be a difference, but apparently it really doesn't matter when it comes to the car running, but I would still like to know...

If I could have removed the actual injector from my fuel rail, the manual injector would have fit. I just swapped the whole rail because I got tired of trying to remove the injector, so I just took the simple way out and swapped the whole thing. So I don't think anything actually HAS to be swapped to make it work the manual injector looks to be the same size as the auto injector so it should just fit right in. I just took the lazy way out Another question... What's with all the different colors of the injectors? What do they all mean? I mean there's grey (N/A Auto 90-91), black (N/A manual 90-91), red (N/A? 92-94?), pink (EJ22T?), yellow (STI?), and they all apparently go to different cars. So what color goes with what? I am really confused on the whole color thing with the injectors...

I did the swap yesterday (replaced 2 auto injectors with 2 manual injectors, including the fuel rail) and all is well Here's my thread I started asking as to what the difference is between the two injectors... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=971954#post971954 Just thought that I would let you know that it worked fine for me! Hope you got it going and fixed your problem!

Howdy all! So when my 1990 Legacy LS Wagon with a 4EAT starting running like crap the other day, I diagnosed it to be the cylinder number 4 injector was bad. So off to the junk yard I went looking for some injectors. The only ones that I could find in the yard were off a 1990 with a manual trans. So I grabbed the injectors, fuel rail, and all off of it. I have credit at this yard, so even if I have to take them back, no harm no foul as it didn't cost me anything. What I didn't know at the time was that there is a distinct difference between the two... One of them has nipples, the other one does not. Hmmm... After making a few phone calls inquiring about this, I said "Forget it, they are going in anyways, it can't run any worse than it is off of 3 cylinders!" and I slapped those bad boys in fuel rail and all (so I replaced the entire rail on the drivers side and the 2 injectors) and attempted to fire him up! So what do you all think happened? It runs just fine. No missing, no funny sounds, just a light ticking of the injectors firing away and a super smooth idle. Took him on a test drive and all is well. Nice power all the way through 70mph and idles like a champ. So after doing all of this and talking with some people, I came on here tonight and did a little research to see what others have done in the same situation, and here is what I found: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115585&highlight=fuel*+injector* http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88653&highlight=auto+fuel+injector+manual http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89080&highlight=auto+fuel+injector+manual Heres some pics of the two different injectors: Auto: Manual: So what everyone has said is a resounding "NO, DON'T DO THAT!" to swapping the auto and manual injectors and some even went so far as to say that the ECU and all the wiring would need to be swapped, but no reason/facts as to why the need to do that, and nobody seemed to have actually tried it, and if they did, they didn't post back about it and now here I am. So my question now is this. What the hell is the difference between the two injectors besides the obvious, and what, if anything, will happen to my car by using the manual injectors instead of the auto ones over an extended period of time? I know the injectors work since they are running great in my car now, so why would I swap them out yet again for "auto" injectors when the ones in there run just fine? I just really want to know the reasons why they would be different. So if anyone has flow rates of the injectors and any other specs on the two injectors, that would be awesome! Thanks all!

The wife is busy this year (), and I actually have a wagon that I can take offroad, so I will be making it up this year! I will have to see if some of my buddies can roll up there with me This gives me a month to install my paddle shifters and stereo as well I think I can do it!