eulogious

This is good! I like this. Here's a schematic for the above and a explantion: Source So ya I would combine the methods together like so: Wire in a relays with the caps like here: This will create the "on pulse". Then wire up your power inverter relay off the LED like 987687 did, this will keep the power inverter on until the computer shuts off. Then wire in a relay to the ACC on the ignition for the shutdown circuit, so that when you turn off the car, it sends a signal to the carputer to hibernate, and when it does that and the LED turns off, the power inverter turns off. I think that is what you are looking for Turns the carputer on, and then cleanly shuts it down without draining you battery, or your wallet... You might get a second pulse from what I have read, but just set the carputer/windows so that it does nothing when the power button is pushed. You are using the UPS funtion to control the power now, so no need for the power button to do anything, once the carputer is on. At least I think you can do this... (I just verified that this is true...)

Nice dude! You got a good start! First thing I would do is figure out how to use the PC/touch screen as a HU. Something like this: http://store.mp3car.com/Mp3Car_BoomzBox_HD_Radio_USB_Controlled_AM_FM_Tune_p/com-109.htm That way you don't need a new HU, you get HD radio and normal radio, and you just use that sweet rump roast touchscreen! Then, all you need is a big HD to throw into your carputer, install iTunes, add a usb dvd unit to the glove box, and then you have a wicked HU! Everything you could want. Wait, another idea. Usb GPS, with GPS software as well! Then you have everything, for a fraction of the price of the unit you linked to. Don't forget to get a good Audio Card with RCA out, then you can just hook your amps directly up to the computer. Something like this (it's a review): http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/review-palace/91730-hardware-review-audiotrak-prodigy-7-1-hifi.html Once you have that installed to give you good audio (and it does 7.1 so you can configure that up to watch movies ), as well as some line in for ipods and what not, just get 1 or 2 of these (depending on how many channels you want to run) to up your line voltage (it's really needed with this): http://cgi.ebay.com/Phoenix-Gold-TLD22-Car-Audio-8-Volt-Line-Driver-Pre-Amp-/300440388494?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f3a4838e And you will have a kickass HU, just using the computer and the touch screen! You of course would have to have some amps to install and use with some decent xovers, but that is much better and needed anyways. Only downside is that you have to have the computer on at all times for this to work, and that might be a bummer, depending on how long it takes to boot... Of course if you are installing keyless entry/remote start, you could hook the power inverter/carputer to turn on using one of the aux buttons on the keyless entry remote. That way you could turn it on and have it booting before you get in/start the car... Then, grab some MDF and make a custom surround to make the touch screen fit all nice and neat Here's a nice tutorial on how to do it: http://phoenixphorum.com/make-a-face-plate-for-a-non-standard-radio-opening-vt884.html What are your stereo plans? Do you already have amps you are going to use? You gonna throw a sub in there as well? You got the beginnings of a sweet install man! Keep it up!

Look up the water wagon 3 thread. Austin put a ea D/R trans into is legacy, so the trans will work that way, the motor would be interesting, but it shouldn't be THAT hard to do. Subaru's are just legos for grown ups

Man, I am going to start quoting people when I reply so they can't go back and edit their posts so I have no idea what is going on if I stumble onto a thread. I HATE that. Don't edit, post a new comment! Keep the original post for reference, even if you make yourself look like an rump roast. Meh. :-\

So after doing some trading, I was able to score a very nice zeropoint fused distro, and by trading off my wii, I got an awesome zx450 to replace my tantrum 600.4! Here's some pics of it all installed: I really like the look of the zx and the ti's, so now it just looks awesome And I really like the zeropoint distro, it's sweet! I had to wire in another relay to switch the ground off and on so that the LED's turn off when I turn the car off, or else they stay on and could drain my battery :-\ Now all I need is an RMD (voltmeter) to run up front... The only thing that bothers me a little is that I now have blue and green LED's :-\ So I need to change all the green ones (3 on my distro, and the power one on the 450) out for blue ones. I found these to replace them: http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1934 I am thinking about replacing both fans as well, but I am unsure if I am going to do that right now. Having two blue LED fan's would look sweet, so I probably will do that at some point down the road. When I do, here's the fans I am going to use (thanks db!): http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_394&zenid=554f72f6265004c84e9ec1a4031d4d3a On a side note, did you know that the main LED on the zeropoint distro "pulses" with the music? Whenever the bass notes hit, the LED "pulses", it's really cool actually, and will look sweet with a blue LED in it They just don't make this stuff like they used too After some more researching, I found this So I need to get a tri color 3mm LED to replace the "pulsing" LED. After researching for a while looking for tri color 3mm led's that are blue/red/green, I gave up, I don't think they exist. I also went out and measured the LED just to make sure it's 3mm, and it is. So I decided to go with a bi color LED instead, blue/red. I will just wire it up so that it normally is blue, when it senses a voltage drop it will light up red, and when it's under 10.5v, it will light up red as well. I don't really need three colors to tell me what's going on. I want to get a RMD and wire it off the distro anyways, so I don't need 3 leds to tell me what's going on. This way all my LED's will be blue or red. Works for me! Here's the blue/red led: http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1842 So after thinking about above qoute, I think I see what he was saying about the voltage drop. When it senses a voltage drop it lights up the yellow AND the green at the same time, make it seem "brighter" when it's really a different color, its just hard to see. Then if it gets below 10.5v it turns red. So if what I said above is correct, with the bi color LED, it will be blue normally, purpleish (red/blue combined) on a voltage drop, and red on lower than 10.5v. If this is the case, this is WAY better than "stock" and I am doing this for sure... I am still waiting to pickup some 4awg. I think I might also pickup some more 0awg and move my distro to the middle, inbetween my two amps. But that's not until at least next payday. I will say that this zx is LOUD and sounds fantastic! I thought the tantrum sounded good, the zx sounds even better! It has also made my 400.2 sound better as well. Maybe because I am using 4th order crossovers on my whole system, rather than mixing 3rd and 4th order crossovers like I was with the tantrum and ti combo? Something with the phasing because of this? IDK... I am also using the zx's crossovers for the whole system including the lowpass, so maybe the 400.2 is getting louder since I am not using it's built-in crossover anymore? IDK, but it sounds louder and more awesome than it did before! I got some more goodies that should be coming to me here in the next couple of weeks, I can't wait to get them and install them!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110940

210,000 on my ea82t, original motor and trans. so you can get more life out of it. You just have to take care of it. The PO of mine did take care of it. I think I am the 3rd owner as well, so that helps. Like gary said, just take care of it with a reseal, keep the coolant in the car (harder than it seems at times :-\) and you *should* be able to hit 200,000 on the original motor. If you were to do that, then you could build up another motor, have the harness and all that done, and you will have had the time to do it right. Gives you some time before swapping in a new motor, and time for research to make sure you do it right. No point in breaking something if it's just fine This is basically my plan with mine. Run it till it breaks, and hopefully before then line up the motor and all that jazz and have it ready to go in case something happens. Probably won't happen that way, but one can always hope

Nice! I will be coming up real soon I promise! Can't wait to see this beast in action :slobber: It's an interesting build to say the least

Have you looked at suberdave's EA wagon???? :slobber::slobber: You should run what he has, I think you will be ok Seems to work for him... Don't know his setup though, but I think he is just rocking the full time D/R... Might have the 6mt in it though. But needless to say, he has run some stuff in his car that is rather impressive

I have the same thing with my 4eat. Hard 1-2 shifts. Gets better when it warms up for me. I have even swap my TCU (modded with different shift maps) and still have it, so I know mine is trans related, not software/electronics related. Maybe something simple like adjusting the brake band might help you? I haven't tried it since I don't have the tool, but I would like too. The FSM says that a hard 1-2 shift could be cause by the brake band. Just a though...

Don't get me wrong, I actually kinda like my ea82t. It's got the added power that is nice. I treat mine well, and don't abuse, so I haven't had any problems either. I just know that when I say I want something to be a go-cart (like my 1985 MR2, it IS a go-cart Mid engine and all) I plan on driving it like a go-cart, so I would want an engine in it that will take being driven like a go-cart, so I will swap out the original motor for something more reliable. That's why I say the ea82t probably won't hold up too well to how I would drive a go-cart But there is only one way to find out right? Throw one in and see what happens!

Your opting for the ea82t?? You might get some flak for that I own an ea82t, and when it pisses all over itself for the last time, that motor is coming out right quick, and it will never go back in. EJ20OHC not powerful enough? Really? That's GOT to have more power than the ea82, or ea81 I would think. The hatch has an ea81 I believe, MUCH better motor than the ea82. I would just rebuild it, but in some better cams, and you will be much happier with it, than the troublesome ea82t. BUT, if you want to go that route, here's some info on the MS with an ea82t... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108882 He got it up and running with very little issues, so it is doable. But I would keep that stock motor in it and just work with it! Now if you want it to be a go-cart and a toy, I would not get the ea82t. That kinda sounds like you want to "bag" on this thing when you say go-cart, and the ea82t will be more trouble than it's worth if that's your plan IMHO. ea82t's don't like abuse at all.

I am feeling nice... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109402 He did it, got pics there too! It's towards the end... Good luck!

Have you checked your radiator for oil? Another sign of a head gasket problem. You get any smell in your car? Stem from under the hood? If it's leaving white stuff, that means it's burning off, so it should make some sort of "smoke" or at least a sign of something happening. Have you tired revving the engine while looking at the turbo to see if anything is pouring out of it? That's what I had to do to determine my leak. Like turbone said, make sure ALL the hose clamps are tight. I was leaking out of a loose hose clamp as well...

x1... EJ swap? I would save up money for an EJ swap if you actually want to keep the car. After lifting, you will want an EJ from what I have heard. So I would start with an EJ, and then suspension. EJ might be expensive, but well worth it. $500 is probably at least half of you EJ costs if you it right and take your time... If you don't want to EJ it, then tune it up!

Good to hear, and glad you got it fixed!

I think he is talking about welding gas shocks. That's a little ****** I will agree. I saw someone else on here do it, but he was a very experienced welder, and he had the work and pics to prove it. Not to bash on you, but I probably wouldn't be trying it if I were you...

Ah, you are thinking of the epicenter, not the cube. The bass cube is a parametric eq, not a "bass restoration device". I don't want to ADD bass, just boost it slightly, which is where the parametric eq comes in. I am not "lacking" any bass at all! When I throw on some Hollywood Undead, my teeth feel like they are going to rattle out of my head! But Metallica's bass drums just don't sound the same as lets say Tool's do, due to the recording itself, not my system. To quote from the article I linked to: The epiccenter, a "bass reproducer", is really a "sub-harmonic synthesizer". It's designed to literally add bass notes to the music that were not there before, because the music industry cut all frequencies below 55hz off all records, and really didn't start allowing all the frequencies into a recording until the media that the recordings were put onto had the space to allow it. So a "sub-harmonic synthesizer" adds that bass below 55hz. This is not what I want at all. I do not need LOWER bass, just LOUDER bass and that is where the bass cube comes in to play. One of the other benefits of the basscube is the 18dB/Oct subsonic filter. This cuts off lower frequencies that the sub can't handle, preventing damage to the sub. With the music I listen too, lot's of classic rock, metal, alternative, some pop, some rap, and when the wife is in the car, country, so I want the ability to boost the low end if it is lacking, especially considering the wide range of music I listen to. And probably the coolest part about the basscube is that the basscube allows you to adjust the frequency that's boosted on the fly, same with the gain, so that I can change the frequency spectrum that is boosted, and the amount of boost applied to that spectrum, all from the comfort of my front seat As for make the sound "muffling" that is caused by some of the lesser quality devices, I will quote the review again: This statement has been said from just about everyone I have talked with about the basscube as well, so it really doesn't do anything to the sound. So that's why I am choosing the basscube over anything else available, because there really isn't anything else that works like the basscube on the market, at least nothing with as many good reviews. It's also made by Phoenix Gold, and all my gear is PG, so it only makes sense to go with it That and I am getting a hell good deal on it, and the guys is letting me make payments on it too! I know you are not bashing me at all , and you do have some very good points, ones I thought of to before I made the decision on the bass cube After researching it and asking on my PG forums about it, there isn't anything available that I can buy today that does that same thing, just as well. If you do know of any, let me know. It's always good to know what else is available And I will end with the funniest emoticon I have seen in a long time: HELLICOPTA, HELLIOPTA, HELLICOPTA!!

Ok, so it's been a while, but I have been doing stuff. Work has been busy lately. I ran two new sets of RCA's for my setup. Since I did that I was able to install my amps the way I wanted to for a while but have been unable to do to the RCA's being too short. So that made me happy. I need to pick up some blue 4awg wire, I am running silver ground wire, because that's all I have for now that will reach, so once I get paid I will pick some of that up. I have also drawn out my stereo surround on some spare mdf, I just need to cut it, and then sand it down. I might do that this week... I traded my wii for a new amp as well that will match my other one, and I have a bass cube that should be coming to me, and hopefully a really nice fuse/distro block should be headed my way here real soon. The basscube should really add some bass to some of my music that is missing bass! Here's a review of the basscube and it explains what it is, if anyone cares Linky I love forums and trading stuff!

That is funny! I honestly did think that I would like having an auto either, but I think that I can live with it now It's just so nice almost having the best of both worlds, an auto for "niceness" and for a DD, but a manual for all the "control" of the gearbox. It's close enough for me to keep the auto!

Nice man! That's sweet, I can't wait to see it in person! :slobber: Very good stuff. This is one heck of a build so far, does it move under it's own power yet?

So the paddle shifters are two momentary on-off switches. To use them, just pull it forward, and it will then automatically spring back to the "rest" position. So you can just flick it and it goes back to default. To activate "Paddle Mode" you pull both shifters towards you. At the same time paddle mode is turned on, the TCU starts to use the "Power" shift maps, and the "Power" light lights up on the dash. This is the indicator that lets you know if you are in paddle mode or not. If you are in paddle mode, it stays lit the whole time. You can do this on the fly, no matter what gear you are in. It figures out what gear you are in, and then keeps it in that gear until a) you shift it up or down, you hit redline, and then it will upshift for you. It will not downshift from what I can tell, which is good, lets me do 2nd gear starts So starting out on a freeway on ramp going up a hill from a stop, I would start out in paddle mode, and then just pull the right shifter to shift up until I hit fourth, and then I would put it back into normal mode and cruise down the free way. If I want to downshift I put it into paddle mode and I then pull the left shifter, and it will downshift for me, to lets say pass. But it will not downshift if the shift will put the car in the redline, so I don't have to worry about accidentally pulling to many times on the paddle and blowing up my car. It's really sweet and intuitive. Presslab's code is really nifty and clever. It's good stuff. What I normally do is this. The on ramp to get up to Seattle from my place is a right hand turn, then going straight for a short distance, then the on ramp lane turns into an off ramp, and you have to get over. Less than a 1/2 mile for sure to get this done, and it's on an incline :-\ Not making this up either. So I start out normally taking the turn, and the trans is usually in 2nd gear by this point, and then you have to floor it in order to get up speed. But you can only take the corner at about 15mph, so you are in 2nd at low speed and you floor it, well the car wants to shift into 1st to get you going quicker. Well this really doesn't get me going quicker, all it does is make a lot of noise for nothing, and then I get a hard shift because the poor thing has 210,000 miles on it It's annoying as all hell. Even with the stock TCU, if you put the shifter down into the "2nd" position, it will still shift into 1st, than 2nd, so there is no way to get around it in the stock configuration. So what I do is take the corner normally, and then coming out of the corner I put it into paddle mode, and then it stays in 2nd and I floor it. Then it's nice and smooth from 2nd to 3rd and then 4th, all with out having to move my hands from the wheel to shift, while at the same time trying to merge into traffic because my lane ends. It's really nice actually. I have hated getting on the freeway with any auto since I moved down here, but now it's all good So then if I am cruising down the freeway and a hill is coming up and I know the car can make it up the hill without downshifting but I know that the TCU will automatically do it when I floor it. So I then activate paddle mode, and it locks it into 4th and uses the "power" shift maps, so it shifts quicker in and out of TC lockup, and also prevents the trans from "wandering" through the gears while driving up a hill, and I can floor it without issues That's really nice for freeway cruising. Especially with the dealer installed cruise because it doesn't turn off the cruise control when I put it into paddle mode, so even the cruise just floors it. It's really nice It's the little things like that that made this mod really cool and worth it. Ya I guess the newer cars have this funtion, but it's sweet to have it in a 1990 car! I hope that explains it a little better

I figured I would give an update since grossgary mentioned it, thanks for the reminder! So I tried moving the paddles around a little to see if it would make a difference, and it did make a difference, but it sucked, so I went back to the original location showed in the pics above. I was impressed with myself that I got it comfortable the first time! So far they are holding up well, and I haven't had any issues. I also haven't really had any time to work on this, I have been involved with other projects. I will say that I really like having the paddle shifters. Merging on to the freeway is better, freeway driving is better, it doesn't shift all crazy when trying to go up hills. I can floor it in any gear with the paddle shifters, so that's awesome, you don't have the stupid downshift you usually get when you floor it in an auto. I find myself using it more and more, but usually just going up hills (it disengages the tc lockup earlier because it uses the power shift maps, so it's better up hills) because I can floor it and not worry about the downshift, and merging because of the same reasons. Also not having any wheel slip is nice as well. I do notice that a lot now that I have driven it for a few thousand miles with the paddle shifters. It's soo much nicer I also got in some more of my caps to finally, hopefully fix my other TCU that had the bad caps. So now I need to order up a chip and a chip burner so I can start working on that. I also need to work on the select monitor thing, but I just haven't really want to look into yet, so I haven't. I still have some ideas for the paddle shifter assembly, but I haven't had the time to research it anymore, and my buddy with the welder has been busy, so it's not like I would be able to do anything right now anyways. But it's still on my mind. I will come up with something better, but for now, this works great! So when I got more info and pics I will post back!

Lesson learned! Glad it didn't fry anything serious, besides you Now you know what happens when you piss your car off. It was just getting back at you for putting it in a sinkhole

Sorry I was merely summarizing and I got it backwards because I have been up for 27 hours straight, my bad. Sorry for cluttering your thread Brian, you won't hear from me again about this, eulogious out!