eulogious

For the record, yes you are correct. I was summarizing, because I figured the OP already knew about this mod, so no point in running through a mod that he knows about. My TCU is modded, AND I have a switch that is interrupting the circuit, just like you said. If anyone wants any info on this mod, SEARCH FOR IT, its been covered before... Oh, and it's not even the "right" way to do it. The TCU only send a 95% duty cycle to the duty c when it's fully locked "normally", so by adding in the switch, you are applying 100% duty cycle to the solenoid, which WILL fry it over time. The ONLY true "correct" way to do this mod is to modify your TCU firmware, so there for even when it's locked up, the solenoid is only seeing 95% duty cycle just like subaru intended Just wanted to state that for the record

I have read the same thing with the torque converter giving more power on the low end. I plan on wheeling my 4EAT, I just need to replace my CV joint, and then get my lift and tires, which should happen here at some point :-\ That was part of the motivation to try to figure out my paddle shifters, was to get better control of the AWD as well, to make it a better wheeler/toy/DD. The 4EAT is a stout trans, so it should be able to take some abuse! I believe gloyale has wheeled his 4EAT and hasn't had any issues, but I don't know if he modded it in anyway or not... I am curious on what you come up with man! I love my 4EAT, and you can get them for fairly cheap out of a JY, so being able to lock it up into 4wd all the time might make for a fun offroad toy drive terrain in the future...

I gotcha. So since I have not done it, I will just be standing by watching your progress If you need any help from the peanut gallery, you know where to find me If you do it, take some pics! It would be interesting to "see" how it could be done. Good luck man! What's your end goal with this? "True" 4wd with an auto?

What type of auto are we talking about? If it's the 4EAT, then what Austin said. I will just speak a little of the 4EAT here, if it doesn't apply sorry The 4EAT has a MPT (Multi Pressure Transfer) clutch that transfers power to the rear wheels when needed via the duty c solenoid. The duty c solenoid is then controlled by the TCU, which I am sure you knew all this already. So there are a couple of ways that you can lock it up. If you ground the solenoid out, it closes the solenoid, therefore providing as much power as it can via the clutches to the rear wheels. Here's a quote from chux about how the transfer works... So he states it best how it transfers power via the MPT clutch. But there are downsides to grounding out the solenoid. It might wear out quicker, you can damage it by leaving the switch on and burning out the clutches, etc. There is also another route, and that is to modify the actually TCU like I did, and then you can control the MPT clutch to your liking. This way is the "safer" way, because it uses the code developed by subaru to control the MPT clutch, so you are not hurting the MPT clutch at all. Other than those two options, I really don't think that there is a way to "weld" the center diff in an auto, mainly because you can't really "weld" a clutch AFAIK. But really, what do I know I say this of course without ever actually opening a trans myself so there might be a way to do that, but from what I have read in all my research when modding my TCU, there is no way to get a 100/100 all the time out of a 4EAT, it all depends on the condition of the clutches, and even then you won't get 100%, and not all the time... The switch would be the easiest way to accomplish this. You just need to cut into one wire. If you want more info on the switch, let me know. I did it in my car and can give you the location of all the wire and what not. I hope that helps a little

I don't think you need an engine hoist to check you timing, but all things considered, it seems like that issues is not as important :-\ Sucks about your luck. You swapping in a 5 spd then? Let us know how that goes... Good luck dude!

Wasn't there some useful info in here about vacuum hoses getting old and needing to be replace? Did those get deleted too? That was actually good info. I believe it was even stated to look at the vacuum reserve on the passenger strut tower and to check for leaks, and also info about the checkvalve and checking it as well, but I could be wrong, since all the previous post were deleted. I was at least nice about suggesting to search. I really don't see how you helped anyone out by deleting posts that I myself found somewhat useful and somewhat well stated and not horribly rude, but oh well, I guess they apparently weren't deemed useful to others. Oh well, what can one do. I hope the OP found his problem and fixed it. I wasn't trying to be a pain. Simply suggestion to search, and then OFFERING to help if he couldn't find anything after searching I find in no way mean, harmful, or rude. People do need to learn to search even if they are new or old to forums, and sometimes a friendly reminder to do so is all that is needed. To the OP, did you find your problem?

Any decent HU is going to be about that deep, regardless if it has a CD player or not. It's kinda become a standard in the stereo industry. So instead of putting in a CD player, they add bluetooth radios and HD radios and stuff, and all that electronic crap has to fit somewhere, so they put it where the CD player was, since they have to keep it that size anyway. They make them the same size because once you install the kit, you can just buy a better decent radio and not have to worry about wether or not its going to fit, and hassling with a new kit. Keep in mind I did say a decent HU, and I am talking about the ones over $100, even at walmart, not your $20 schmucks special Most still include a CD player because alot of people still have CD's as well. Not as many as a few years ago, but most people don't want to take the time to convert everything to digital. I know several people with HUGE CD collections that haven't gone digital. I have an iphone I use as my ipod, and I have 30,000 mp3's on my computer, so I don't fit into this category, I am just saying there is still a demand for CD's believe it or not.

I see you fixed it. Glad it was an "easy" fix. Granted it wasn't cheap, but it was easy to fix! Don't you wish everything was like a subie

I don't recall where it is in the FSM but it's there, but all the info you need is in the link that grossgary provided above. The XT's had the ea82 as well, so don't think that it's different because it's an XT and doesn't apply. The XT6 on the other hand has a different motor in it, but regular XT's had the same motor...

+1 on the timing... Seems like that's all I have said in the last few days, kinda wierd... When my t-belt was going on my MR2, it did the same thing, because the belt had jumped a couple teeth and need to be replaced. Seemed to idle and drive fine, just a little stumble. Hell I drove it for pizza delivery for 6 months before finally taking it in, so it was very subtle. Good luck dude!

I am just making a surround myself out of two pieces of 3/4" mdf glued together. I had the MDF kicking around, and it's not hard to measure, cut and sand I will paint it a nice, tough black and it will look real nice when I am done. I just don't see the point in paying $15 for a kit, when you can use wood for free No harness here, harnesses are for pussies My car didn't come with a radio at all, just a bunch of cut wires in the dash :-\ Took a while, but I figured out all the wires and wired it in. Granted it's "hacked" in, but you can't see it behind the unit once it's installed, so who cares?!? Granted if the harness was still intact when I got the car, I might have been a little more inclined to buy a harness. But then again, it's a 20 year old car, so who really cares, as long as it doesn't catch on fire

I would solder that up quick! JB weld isn't really supposed to be used that way. Don't think it could start a fire, but I would fix the connection up right away, and before driving it a bunch!

Almost seems like a timing issue... Did you check the timing before taking the carb apart? Anytime a car is "boggy" and doesn't like to go, I check the timing to make sure it's correct. Seems these ea82's tend to not like to be timed correctly. I can't really help you with your carb issue, as I have MPFI and a turbo, but there should be some info somewhere on how the carb goes together. Have you looked at the FSM for it? It should be available to download, and will probably have pic/diagrams for the carb in it. Search for FSM, and there should be some links to download the FSM. If you really can't find a link for it, I got one around here somewhere... but search first! Good luck man, and welcome to the forum!

Ok, so my FSM says the relay is located at i48, which is behind the glove box, on the left hand side towards the stereo, but not in the stereo "compartment". Should be right next to the radio "compartment". The solenoid is located in the engine compartment according to the FSM, not on the inside of the car, so are you sure you have the kickdown solenoid? If you need I can take a pic of the FSM, but it really doesn't explain its location too well...

I am a horrible person, and totally forgot to look in my FSM!!! Sorry about that. Going out now to get my FSM, will post back in a few, I swear

I thought about using another piece of wood, but really didn't want to go down that route, since I don't have a saw handy, it was a little more complicated to do that right away If I have problems removing the sub and getting back in, I will probably do that, but right now it's and and sealed nice and tight, so I am not too worried about it. I will have to search youtube for the carpet video, that will probably help out a lot Thanks for the idea!

Temp sounds normal, mine comes up about an 1/8th of the way up the gauge at most...

Thanks man! That makes sense on what I need to do, now I just need to make it happen. I will probably hit up one of the guys over on my PG forums and see if they can help me out. At least walk me through it the first time.

They pop up here as well. Picked mine up for $25 from a member here. All 3 sections too! Keep an eye out in the classifieds.

I have an FSM for an 88, I could look in it and see what I find. I think it should be the same for you? Give me a few hours here and I will look it up and see what it says...

Ok, so I finally got my sub installed permanently! But it was a PITA, and I learned a few things First thing I learned when building a box is make the speaker opening smaller, and make it bigger if needed. In my case I should have made the opening a 1/4" smaller and I would have been fine. So next time I will take the manufactures measurements for the mounting diameter and shrink it by 1/4". MDF is easy enough to sand down that so that won't be a big deal. Next thing I learned is about t-nuts. Never have used them before, I figured just pressing in the t-nut should suffice. Well, it would have it my mounting hole was the correct size. Since it was a 1/4" to big, 2 of the t-nuts didn't grab the wood well because of the lack of wood that just pushing them in with a pair of pliers wasn't enough. So of course after tightening every bolt down but the last one, I go to the last one, and it spins :-\ So I had to remove the sub and try again. So when I did it again, I used a washer to tighten the t-nut in using a bolt, and after I did that I had no issues. I also learned to buy the correct bolt length It sucks when you buy 3 different sizes of bolts till you find the correct length. Annoying. Stupid trim piece... So I would say all in all it was a good learning experience I am glad I did it though. This is the first time I have built/designed a box on my own so now I know what I need to do to make building the next one go alot smoother I haven't carpeted the box yet, because I really don't know how to do it, and I don't have any money for another week. So eventually the box will get carpet, but for now it's done!

I thought about that, but then I just didn't really care With enough flux and a hot iron you can make it work I didn't have any of them on hand that were gold and I didn't want to wait, so I just used the iron.

Well, the damage isn't that bad. Could be a lot worse for sure. The worst is the tank :-\ That sucks You gone for a ride yet? Glad it was an "easy" fix, all things considered!

Got my binding post in the mail today and installed them. I like these alot! They look awesome and professional Pics! Here's what's in the package: Here it is before hammering it down: In: This is my one gripe I have about these. Since these binding posts accept up to 8awg wire, you would think that the soldering tabs would also except 8awg wire as well, because if you are running 8awg to the box, you will also want 8awg to the speaker as well. But the tabs don't accpet 8awg! Maybe 16awg, but not even the 12awg that I am using! Kinda stupid if you ask me. So I had to use lots of flux and solder to make sure the connection was good, so it worked out, but you would think the solder tabs would accept up to 8awg wire, not a maximum of 16awg :-\ One all soldered up: Both all soldered up w/heatshrink for good measure: In the box! Finished product: So I will be using these again for sure! Probably for every box I build. The solder tab isn't that big of a deal, just more of a WTF thing. I like the idea of a solder tab as well. That way I know that the connection will always be good in the box. It's soldered! I really like these and would recommend them to anyone building a box! I also installed my t-nuts as well, but one thing I didn't think about is getting longer bolts! I got 3/4" bolts, and they are too short to grab! So I need to get 1.25" bolts to make sure they grab :-\ Annoying. Didn't think about the lip of the sub being a 1/4" thick, oh well. Have to pick those up in the morning. Also, don't go to a name brand store to buy t-nuts! They rip you off big time! Lowe's was going to charge me $1.05 a t-nut! That's insane! I went to my local lumber yard and they had them for $0.31 a t-nut. MUCH better. 3 bucks instead of 10, ya, I will take that. Just a little heads up because I have heard t-nuts are expensive, but only if you shop at the big box stores! So far I really do like this sub. I haven't had a 12 in so long that it sounds really good, even if it's not the best in the world It hits WAY harder than my 8 did

Don't let the turbo haters bring you down. I love my turbo! I got 209,000 on the clock and still going strong on the original motor and trans(4eat)! Some people would say that I paid alot for my car (about 1/2 what you paid, but it had 195,000 on it, not 95,000), but it's all in what you want. I was looking for a good interior, and a straight body with most of the options. The drive terrain on these cars is so easy to swap, who cares what it is! If it breaks, put in better! So when I found one that ran perfect and had very little issues, I didn't think twice about it, and I still don't regret that decision and it's been 9 months and I still am very happy with my turbo If the car was well taken care of, then you too should get lots of miles out of yours! Looks really clean. I would keep it stock as well, since you already have the lifted subie, keep this one stock and clean! I would add some better tunes to it, since you got the nice head unit and speakers, add some amps and make it a sweet DD I think there might be a stereo install thread around here somewhere...