eulogious

Progress! And answers to my own questions If you couldn't tell, you can drill through there no problem and install grommets and be good to go! More pics! I haven't run the power wire yet, but I wanted to make sure it worked with the grommets so I took some pics... Here's what the amp looks like sitting in there kinda hooked up, to get an idea of what it's going to look like So ya lots of progress. I got the wood I need to put down as well, so if all goes well I might just have a working amp tomorrow! After I install the power wire I will see where I am at and see if I have time to hook up the amp. That should be fun! In order to run the power wire I am going to remove the fender, good times!

Made some more progress on it tonight. Got all the wires I needed into the wire loom for easier installation. I have 5 wires in the wire loom now. My RCA's, 2 20' runs of 16awg speaker wire, my LPL cable, and remote power turn on. I am glad I got the 1/2" wire loom instead of the next size smaller! This will make it much easier to run the wires and keep them organized. Now I just have to put them in the car...

I really like this amp. I have had it for about 6 years, and after I fixed it I should have many more years with it. It's a very solid amp. Phoenix Gold makes some quality stuff. I have been very pleased with this amp. I am glad I got it when I did, and kept it around. So far I have been able to piece together my install stuff for super cheap. Like under $40, including stuff I had kicking around already. I am broke, so I don't have a choice to do this on the cheap I don't ever use that space for tools. I have a rubber maid container already in the back on my car for my tools, and my tool box is always in my car, so I still have plenty of storage in my roo. In fact I never use that area at all. I think I have opened in my 5 time in the last 6 months, and that was to see if something just happen to be in there. So I will not miss the space at all. I fact I will finally be able to use it for something! I like your install in the jeep. Hidden is good I thought about putting them under the seat, but I wanted to be different and try something new. That and I really like projects, and this will be my first install were I actually am going to try to do a really nice job, just to see if I can. I like the challenge It's all good! That's why I started the thread, to get ideas about installing this stuff! Thanks for the tips and info! Sweet. That's kinda what I thought when I got under the car. It looked like it should work ok. Thanks for the confirmation though So I changed the title and figured I would post pics of the install, and the install process, that way if someone else want to do this, they have a good starting point I have been busy acquiring parts for the install, and still been able to do it for cheap! Here's everything: Here's my 8" Solobaric that I decided to use out of my MR2 and my cap with a digital volt meter. I figured I might as well get some bumps now since I have a sub and an amp Here's my 17' RCA's, 40' of 16awg speaker wire, 17' of 0awg for the power (thanks true2blue!), some 4awg to run to my amps, some connectors for 0awg wire, and 20awg remote turn on wire. Here's some wire loom, and my LPL for my amp to control the bass remotely. Here's my power distribution stuff for my amps and some fuses as well as the grommets... My plan is to run my amp in the following config: Front speakers run off the front channel on the amp under a 4 ohm load (75 watts rms x2) and then bridge the rear channel to run my sub on a 2 ohm load (300 watts RMS x1, yes it is 2 ohm stable and within it's specs ) and then run the rear speakers off the deck power for now. That will give me plenty of power up front to power the mids and the highs, and then the sub will have plenty of noise to be able to hear it as well. This is basically the same setup I had in the MR2 before I blew the amp, and then gutted it for it's wires. Hopefully tomorrow I will get a chance to start running the power wire, the RCA's and speaker wire. I have also picked up a piece of wood to use in the compartment so I can bolt the amps to something. I think I now have everything I need, I just have to throw it all into the car. This is the fun part for me though

^^^ That's better Good work! Glad you got the lights working as well. The reason I asked was because in the picture they still had the plastic on them

I haven't actually started the install yet, I was waiting on my fets and caps to show up so I could fix my amp. It's all fixed up now though That's a good idea to put them in the side, but this amp is WAY to big and heavy for that. It's a 75x4 RMS 600watt amp. It weighs at least 30 pounds, is 14" long and 10" wide. It would probably rip the interior panel right off! Not to mention where you are talking about I have 6x9 speakers that were installed by the previous owner. So that space isn't available to begin with. After both these amps get installed into that cubby, there isn't going to room for anything, let alone tools, so I don't have to worry about that. As it sits now, if I get that sub amp, I will have 3/4" on the long side of the amps les than 1/4" on the width, and about 1/4" before it hits the top of the cubby. It's super tight. Thanks for the idea though! So I did some more digging around, and it looks like I can just drill through that area and be fine with some grommets. Now I have to go remove my RCA's from my MR2 and find all my old wiring :-\ Here's a pic of the amp:

Nice! How did you end up getting them on? You mentioned that you had to weld something. Looks good! They wired up yet, or do they just look pretty

Fair enough. No harm no foul. I never said not to be an rump roast, I just said dont be one for no reason Trust me I am an rump roast as well, but only when needed And for the record I am not a nutswinger I think that I am going to try to make it for WCSS this year and try to meet everyone. I got relatives that live out that way, so I might as well stop by and say hi to them, and then go see some kickarse subies! Now time to go repair my amp so I can have some bumps as well! Granted not quite like true2blues but bumps none the less! Now let's see those daylighters installed

I will be looking out in oly for ya as well! I hope you find it, that really sucks. My motorcycle got stolen from out in front of my apartment as well a few years back. The rump roast hats stole a truck from down the street, so they could steal my bike :-\ 6 months later I got a call from the police, they raided a house out in Everett (go figure ), and there was my bike! I ran and picked it up and drove it home. Hopefully you will have a happy ending as well! Best of luck man!

Geez, someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed! First read before you post and you won't look like an rump roast hat. If you would have done that you probably would have kept your mouth shut, since a mod moved it. If you have a problem with how this forum is moderated, take it up with the mods, not users trying to enjoy their cars, and don't use their threads to take out your frustration. All I was trying to do was point that out to you nicely, but that wasn't good enough for you and you seriously had to make a comment about me swing off his jock? Really? Wow. Are we in third grade or something? I have nothing against you, but you seem to hate everyone else. I don't know what I or the world did to piss you off, but seriously, think before you type, and don't be an rump roast for no reason. For christ sake. Neither I or OP did anything to deserve to have you come in and bad mouth anything for any reason, let alone have you call me gay. Grow up. Geez. If you want to respond to me or my actions, be a man and PM me and not take up other peoples threads. I will not respond to this again in this thread out of respect to the OP. Sorry but I couldn't let that slip by... Back on topic... Keep up the good work!

What about your timing? Is it good?

Ok, so in this image: If I was to drill through the support towards the front of the car, is it exposed on the bottom, or is it covered up? My worry is that it is exposed to the ground, and that stuff could kick up into there and damage my wires. I got under the car and looked, but could really tell... So if that is the case I was thinking drilling the hole, and then running some plastic electrical conduit through the holes (easier than welding...), and then running my wires through the conduit. That way the wires wouldn't be exposed to the elements. Is that overkill?

Nice man, I like it alot! The bumpers look good! Now go get it muddy and then take some pics, that way you can call it an offroader

The 6x9's were installed by the pervious owner in the cargo area. I have no rear door speakers. Works out ok, since the 6x9 can have a lot more power to them I poped those covers off on the back of the box and it just goes up at an angle to the top. About 2" of room, and that's it. So nothing to work with there. I will probably remove the bumper, or I just might be daring and see what happens zzz zzz I will have to make sure once the wire is in, it's all sealed up for sure. If it's exposed, I just just run a pipe through first, even more protection. I will cross that bridge once I start zzz

It looks doable for sure. The only thing I am not really sure about is how far back the rear bumper goes. It looks like it doesn't go all the way back, so I can drill through and run my wires... I took some measurements and the dimensions of the compartment are: 37.5"L 11.25"W and then the depth is a little funky: from the left going right it's 3.25" Deep for 12" and then the rest of it is 4.5" Deep. My amp(s) (Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4) dimensions are 14.25"L 10"W 2.35"H, so it fits no problem. The other amp I was considering is the Phoenix Gold rsd1200.1 for my sub that I get eventually. And that's a pretty big amp for sure. It's dimensions are 19.25"l 11 3/16"W 2 3/8"H so it would fit, but it would be super tight. Well nothing that a BFH hammer can't fix zzz Here are some pics: Here's the compartment I am talking about in case someone doesn't know: Here's why it's deeper on side than the other... So this looks like where I will have to drill to get access for my power wire. I think that the bumper doesn't come all the way back, so it should be easy to install some grommets to get the wire through safely... Same deal with the other side, just it will be the RCA's instead of power. Here's my HU, and old one but a gooder I think that I am going to use some MDF and create a custom surround for it, I have just been lazy... So I just found out that I have basically blown both sets of speakers I thought worked, so I am going to get some new ones here eventually :-\ Hopefully sooner rather than later. So I was looking at getting the PG Rsd 6.5cs'. They look like good speakers for cheap Anyway I go it's going to be components. So I am going to mount the tweeters here and make a nice fiberglass thing around it, and make it look all fancy. It should be a fun project... Here's my "sail panel": The Speaker: The cs' are a litte deep than my others, so I will have to probably mount them on the outside of the grill. Should be "simple" The other door: So that's my plan. Here it is boiled down. I think that I am going to go Phoenix Gold gear all the way. Except for the HU of course 1. Install my Tantrum 600.4 once I get it working. 2. Make a new surround for my HU. 3. Buy new front speakers, then make sail panels for the tweets. 4. Buy new 6x9 for the rears (thinking rsd here as well) 5. Buy a new class D amp (rsd1000.1, or maybe old skool PG stuff, or route 66 ) 6. Buy a 12 RSDC and build a nice box for it. 7. Upgrade alt to a 90amp maxima one, the piss rump roast 55amper in there now can suck my balls. It might just kill it with my Tantrum 8. Upgrade wiring in car to handle new alt and amps 9. Add a cap just for ************s and giggles. 10. Enjoy my new stereo in my roo! Granted all this is going to take some time. I am BROKE right now, so I am just doing what I can with the very little money I have. Come November after my wedding and all that crap, I wil be able to spend some money on myself, so we shall see what happens then

I like 'em! They look good. I like the front. Where's the pics with them on already!

Ok, fair enough, but he didn't post it here to begin with, it was moved by a mod. So it's not the OP's fault. I believe he posted in the 80's forum to begin with, I could be wrong though, then it was moved here by Turbone. If a modded wanted it moved it would have been moved again I would think...

Geez, read all the posts man

Good to see that you got rid of that trunk You gonna need any help with it this weekend?

Ok ,so to start off, this is not a question about wiring or what to buy, I just have a question on a mounting location idea that I had for my amps that I am going to install. I could just go simple and install one under the seat, and then attach the other amp to the sub box when I get a sub and be all boring, but what's cool about that? I want to be different... I would like to mount the amp where it is visible when I want it to be, and invisible when I want it to be and also not take up any useful space. So the conclusion that I came to was mount the amp(s) (soon to be one more for a sub) in the small compartment in the back of my wagon, right by the hatch, under the carpet. That space should be big enough for 2 amps and all the wiring associated with them. I was thinking about removing the metal door that is on there now and replacing it with a piece of acrylic and cutting the carpet back to have it always exposed. That way I could still put stuff in the back without having to worry about hitting the amps, and I could still show it off if I wanted too, and it doesn't take up any useful space (right now my compartment has rags and a funnel in it so those won't be hard to relocate), and it will make it easy to make room, because only the sub and it's box will be in the way. It's alot easier to remove just a sub, rather than a sub with an amp attached to it. Then there's the problem of cooling/airflow for the amps. So I was thinking about just installing a couple 120mm fans the acrylic with grills on top of them in to provide air flow (2 of them, one blowing in and one blowing out) so I could still use the back area and not worry too much about it. Granted it will take more wire to get back to that compartment, but what other downsides are there to installing my amps in that compartment? What's the access like to that compartment for wires and such? I am not going to be wheeling this car anywhere near water that is going to be getting back there, so that is not a concern of mine. The compartment is sealed from the outside now, so that shouldn't be an issue either, so it seems like a great place to put some amps! What do you all think of this idea?

For that year engine it's ODB1, and for ODB1 cars the the only communication between the ECU and the TCU is for engine RPM, and that's coming from the ECU going to the TCU, so it doesn't effect the ECU at all, so you do not need the TCU to complete your swap. Sounds like a fun project, keep up the good work!

+1000 to what he said, especially on wires inside the engine bay, or that deal with vital functions of the car, ie ECU connections, TCU connectins, ect. Granted I am guilty of using wire nuts on the inside of the car, but I always use the proper size wire nut, and also hold the wires together with a zip tie after tightening the wire nut, just so you can't pull the wires apart. Really the only time to use wire nuts is on non important things, and if there are a TON of wires to connect. When I installed my remote start and converted my power door looks, I had to add 9 relays to my car, with 5 wires apiece. That would have taken forever to solder. So I wire nutted it up, and it's been great. I have also used this same wirenut method before and it hasn't failed me. But I only do this on the INSIDE of the car were there is no moisture and it's not as critical. Anything in the engine bay or dealing with the engine and trans, solder and heat shrink are the ONLY way to go no matter how many wires and how much time it takes. Gotta love all the hack jobs out there Glad it got it going and that it was an "easy" fix!

I would check the IAC (idle air control), and then the CTS (cooling temp sensor). If you do a search for both of these should be lots of threads explaining how to check them. Check those first, and then post back the results and if it fixed it or not. Good luck!

I am glad that I could help explain it for ya. Can't remember if it was mentioned or not, but try changing the fluid, maybe try a different brand? Synthetic maybe? I know that the 4EAT is sensitive to low fluid, and the fluid itself, so it might help. You could just add the paddle shifters and then have complete control over when it shifts I kid You could also just use a combination of the power button and manual button and have "sportier" and more controlled shifts. Just a thought. Hope that it just works it's self out, good luck!

I should also mention that here in the US, we did not get a "power" button to enable the trans to go into "power shift" mode. "Power" mode makes the shifts more aggressive and things like that. So in the US, we didn't get the button, but the JDM cars did, so the svx guys found out by grounding a pin off the TCU, you can enable the TCU to go into "power" mode all the time. That might solve some of your problems. Just throwing that out there.

I believe the trans you have is a phase II 4EAT (someone correct me if I am wrong on this) so the TCU and the ECU communicate a lot more than the phase I 4EAT, which makes it more difficult to do anything to the TCU. I for one have modded a phase I tcu to run some custom firmware, and because of that I can change all my shift points to whatever I wanted to. Granted the transmissions are slightly different, they are basically the same trans using the same rom code on the TCU. So knowing what is involved with actually changing the shift maps, I would say that the dealer will not be able to do anything for you. The only true way that you will be able to modify the shift maps is by modifying the TCU to accept some sort of new firmware. This is assuming the phase II TCU are similar to the phase I, but I believe they are very similar though. Also the way the TCU is designed, you can not change it. The firmware is stored on ROM (Read only memory) so by design you can not change it once it's been written to. So once the factory writes the ROM onto the chip, you can not change that ROM without physically modifying the TCU itself, which is what I did. So unless the dealer has some sort of special ROMs sitting around running some sort of custom subaru TCU code with custom shift points, and is willing to desolder and solder on a new chip in place of the old one, the dealer can't really do anything for you. Of course they might offer a "sport" version of the TCU (I have no idea, just talking out my arse here) that you might be able to just plug in, but of course that will cost you $750 or more for that bad boy, considering a new TCU is almost $600 :-\ I was able to modify the TCU myself and add the custom firmware, but it took me a couple months of research and lots of help from some board members here. I did not pioneer it, I just copied what someone else did. Here's my build thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110222 Granted I did more than just change the shift maps, but you have to basically do all of in order to run the custom firmware needed to change the shift maps. There are a couple of sites that explain the process in great detail. This site: http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/tcuinfo.html Deals with the svx, but it uses the same processor as the legacys, and has a lot of info on what is actually required to change the shift maps. It's really intense. There's a lot of variables that go into the shift calculations, and LOTS of shift maps for the TCU to choose from, so it's not just a "simple" procedure to change the shift points. In fact, I need to change my shift points from 1-2. I have really hard shifts right now and I could change the line pressure which would fix my problem, but it's so intense to try to actually figure out what to change in the ROM itself that I just haven't change it it, and probably wont. And I am already running the modified firmware Presslab on the other hand did change the shift maps, and his are the ones that I am using at the moment. So it's possible, but it's a PITA that I really don't care to deal with myself. Now there's another site that will actually do some of the modding themselves, so you might want to check them out, but it's not cheap. Again, they are dealing with the svx, but it's really the same ROM code. http://www.ecutune.com/ Then if you really want to go crazy, there is another site that will actually modify parts of the trans itself to shift better and all that jazz. They are not cheap, but the work that they do is suppose to be good. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/subaruauto.shtml Hope that explains some of it for you, and why the dealer probably wont be willing to help you out! Again all my info is based off the phase I trans, but it should apply to you. Good luck!