eulogious

I always thought the idle "seemed" low in the dash, even though the car ran fine. Now I know why! Thanks for the info about the tach, didn't even think/realize that was the case!

Nice! Looks like you carry some good brands too. That's always nice to see names like Audison and Hertz along side of JL and Fosgate. Not too many places carry really good high end stuff. At least you got some good taste! I am personally a Phoenix Gold (old school zx and ti stuff) biggot and love to install stereo stuff on the side. I also repair amps in my free time, so I get some great stuff that doesn't work for cheap and then use it in my own cars. They seriously don't make amps like they used too, that's for sure. Good luck finding real gold traces on any boards in the new amps, it just doesn't happen like it used to. Thanks for sharing man!

Lookup my thread when I did this. All the info about the recall is there, including the actual part numbers for the recall alt... It was a pain to track down and get for $79!

This is exactly what I did when I put a 97 alt into my 90 leggy. Been about a year, no problems at all!

Good work! Looks really good. Where are the wires? I would like to see how you got everything (including wires/rcas/etc) stuffed into it. This obviously isn't your first rodeo! Was this personal or for work? Think I am done with 20 questions! I like it very much!

Yup the ECU just plugs right in. Gotta move some stuff around to get to the ECU but the '92-94 ECU plugs right in. The injectors are super easy, just swap the whole fuel rail. Took about 20 min to do! Nice upgrade for sure. It kicks up the idle when you start it like all newer cars do, much better than the stupid '90 ECU.

Upgrade the IAC? I didn't know that. I should do that. I just upgrade all my injectors to redtop and upgrade the ecu as well. Just updating the ecu was a big difference in the way my car idled. I had the same thing about in my legacy (auto though, not manual), and upgrading the ecu and the injectors solved that issue for me. Much better now.

Gettings a dub 7 eh? And @1.5 ohms even. What amp you gonna use to push that thing? You got pics of your install? I didn't want to spend that much on my sub, but I got a PG zx500 (600watts RMS on paper, but closer to 900watts RMS in reality) that is going to be pushing my single 12". As for rattles, I have been surprised at how much my 1990 legacy does not rattle. Like hardly at all, even with everything cranked. These soobies interior seems surprisingly durable, even over the years...

The fuse for the memory wire is under the hood, not inside the car. Look at the fuse box that's right by the battery, the fuse should be in there. I had to replace mine when I blew it installing my aftermarket head unit. Do you have the wiring diagram for the radio/car? This is the only way you can make sure you are actually getting the correct wire for the memory. Otherwise you are just stabbing in the dark, hoping for the best. I would find the wiring diagram (I have it if you really need it), double check to make sure you have the right wire, check the fuses inside the car, and under the hood with a DMM to make sure they are actually still good, and if all else fails, run a new memory wire. You can tap into the ignition and run a new wire from there if you don't want to run it from the battery. As for the climate controls, you are probably going to have to pull them out and check for power at the unit. If there is no power at the unit, find the fuse. It might be under the hood as well, but I am not completely sure. HTH!

I am in for sure. Planning on being there(711/gas station) at 11am, waiting till 11:15 or so nrfore taking off but I am in for sure.

You might have some problems with codes as one trans is OBD1, and the other ODB2. So some of the sensors might not work at all, because they are not there. ODB2 also ties the ECU and the TCU together more. But I don't think it will prevent it from actually running, but you might get some interesting codes, probably coming more from the trans than anything... In fact you might not be able to see the codes at all or diagnosis it, since you probably won't have the ODB2 connector either, and I don't know if the "AT TEMP" light (or equivalent) with the newer cars. IDK, just throwing out some possible issues you might have from my reading that I have done. Report back if this work, as it will be good to know! Opens up some options for us folks owning the older cars.

Ok, lets meet at the cooper point rd exit off of 101. It's the very first exit when you get on 101 from 1-5. There is a 7-11/gas station with a fairly large parking lot to the left of the exit, on the other side of the freeway. Lets meet there. Turn left at the light once you leave 101, and go straight and it will be on your left once you get over the freeway. There's also a Jack in the box in the same parking lot, more less, as well. Let's shoot for meeting at 11am? That gives 2 hours to make it to oly from the portland area, give or take a little. Think that works? I will be there with my white 1990 legacy wagon loaded to the gills! Only one week left!

Where you stopping in Oly? I wouldn't mind jumping in! What time do you thing you will be in Oly?

Just take the fender off and do it right. It only took me like 30 min total to run 0awg into the car. You don't have to take the whole fender off, you can get it done while keeping some of the bolts on, so it's not THAT bad. Or use the methond fairtax used. That's the one I use for running smaller wires. But anything bigger than 8awg, I just run through the fender, I find it just easier to do it that way.

I might just stop by and check out the place! I don't got nothing going on this weekend. I will text ya more about this later in the week!

Double and triple check all your grounds. You need to have multiple grounds for this thing to work for ya, I am guessing you are missing one or more of them...

Oh, and apparently I was wrong with my previous post about the grounds and the fuel pump, now that I look at the diagram, so my bad!

From the diagram, you should have 12v going to "the rest of the harness". You are getting the 12v from the ignition relay. Once you turn the key, you power the fuel pump relay. According to the diagram. So if you are not getting 12v, then there is something up with the ignition side of things. As soon as you turn the key to "on", you should get 12v going to the fuel pump relay. According to the diagram, you get your 12v from "the battery" and that goes into pin 6 on the ignition relay. Then once you turn the key to "on", you send 12v through pin 4 on the ignition relay, which should then give you 12v to the fuel pump relay. If you are not getting 12v to the fuel pump relay, then something is up with your ignition. I would start by going and double checking everything on the ignition side. I bet your problem lies somewhere over there... I should also give out a disclaimer, I have NOT EVER done an EJ swap, so I am just going by what is written and my understanding of how it should work, and I have no experience in actually doing the swap, FYI.

Quick question (not trying to be rude or snide here), do you fully understand how relays works? I ask because you seem to not fully understand how relays work. Read up on relays and fully understand them, and the answer will probably come to you. Here is a good site to help you out: http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm You need 12v going to one side of the relay, and ground to the other in order for the relay to work. Since this isn't a "bosch" style relay, the pins are different, but that should be explained in the EA to EJ swap write up. The EA ECU is different than the EJ, and from the sounds of it, the ECU powers (12+, not ground) the positive side of the relay, and the other side is just grounded. This is NOT the way the EA cars are setup. The relay needs 12+ volts for it to work...

Welcome! Not all sub-forums that you post in will add to your post count. Classifieds, off-topic, I believe you don't get anything added to your post count, and I know there are more. So it does depend on the sections that you post in. That might be why you think you have several posts, but only a few are showing up in your post count. HTH!

Read the FAQ in the offroad section, it should all be covered there...

Yup, different mechanic. All those "issues" aren't really issues. The car has 175K, of course things aren't going to work right! The clunk is normal for older subarus. The car moving forward... use the ebrake more. Then it won't move. And for #3, WTF? Where did he get that from? Never heard of that destroying a transmission. Find a good subaru mechanic to look over the car, that's the first thing I would do if I was really worried about the car. HTH!

Sounds like you got one hella of a deal! Not only did you score a decent rig for a "not" so decent rig, but you got the rig you traded in the first place back! Now that's a trade I would like! The dood should have just given you the Bronco and saved all the hassle!

I just have to say something about this comment you made... <start rant> Why don't you want your files floating around? Are you embarrassed of them? Coming from someone who openly shares ANYTHING I design/make with ANYONE (and there are more than one project I have done this on), I don't get this logic. You wanna know about my paddle shifters and the custom code I run on my TCU to make that happed? Sure! Not a problem, I will give you everything and more to help you reach your goal. THAT'S what the internet is all about. Sharing and helping. Not hoarding and keeping everything to yourself. This site would not exist if people had this same attitude of keeping it all to themselves. In fact, that is the WHOLE POINT of this website/forum, to openly share information and to help others out on Subaru related things. Not to brag about what they can do or what they have accomplished, but to help others reach that same goal and accomplish what they have. The open source community has THRIVED for years by keeping everything out in the open and everyone helping everyone, even with "new" technology. Especially for you, there is no reason not to just give the file out and let others help/do it themselves. It's not like you created something new that you don't want someone to copy, you just copied an old design and made it smaller. By keeping this all to yourself, you are losing out on lots of potential help. I may be pretty smart, but I have learned that there is ALWAYS someone smarter than me out there. So why not let those smarter people help you out? Another word for it might be "Peer Review". Either way you want to look at it, it can't hurt you by "giving" out "your" design, it will only help you. I like what you got going on here, but I don't understand keeping it all to yourself. You are shooting yourself in the foot by not letting some of the really smart people here look at your idea and help you improve it. </end rant> If this ever comes to fruition, I will for sure be hitting you up on how to build one of these/buy one. It's an awesome idea!