eulogious

The diff's a 4.11 and included w/ the trans Thanks for the info. It seems that everything is swappable that doesn't just fit right up. Please keep the info comin'!

I believe I read the thread that you are talking about in my searching... And I was hoping that was the case. Pretty simple I beleive, but I have yet to do it so I have no idea. Anybody else confirm this by any chance? I realize that at the end of the day this is NOT a bolt on swap, there will be stuff that I have to figure out and probably won't work right at first, but I am up to the challenge. Like I said, I just don't want to go throwing money around at some idea that will not work at all, but it sounds like this might be a good plan for me to stick with. Another benefit of this swap is that I will have a newer trans in it so it will be easier to work on, and more reliable as well. So far it seems like it's possible... Any more input would be greatly appreciated before I make a move! Thanks!

I will to get under a wrx or an impreza and check out the mounting, thanks for that idea. My biggest concern is not wasting money. If parts can be swapped, or this seems somewhat doable to do the swap, then I am game. I just don't want to throw money that I really don't have at something that is going to do me no good and cause me more pain than help me out.

I have searched, and I have come up with nothing relating to this. What I want to do is purchase a rebuilt 4EAT that was out of an '93 impreza and keep it around in my garage until my 4EAT in my loyale goes out, and then swap in the rebuilt transmission. From what I have heard, everything is the same about the 4EAT until about '97 except for the bell housing on the transmission. If this is the case, then I can just swap the bell housing and diff, and then it should just bolt up to mine? Will I have to modify the drive shaft? What about the TCM and the wiring for it? It seems like it should be straight forward to do and just plug right in, but I don't know. Can I use the old TCM instead of the new one, or should I upgrade the TCM at the same time as the swap? Also can one swap the transfer clutches on these to transmissions? What about the other parts? Are they interchangeable? The reason I am asking this, is right now my 4EAT is working great, but I can get this rebuilt one for cheap now, and I would like to have a backup around in-case mine fails, which it will at some point. The other option I am considering is getting a donor lego (I have one in mind, just no money, time or storage for it right now) and doing an ej swap. Would it just be easier to swap the whole drive terrain to ej stuff, or do it in phases ie. when the transmission goes out replace it, and then when the motor goes out replace it, or just go for the gold and do it all at once? What's people's opinion on this? Oh, and I WANT the 4EAT, not a 5spd, so don't mention a 5spd d/r swap, this is my DD and I like the auto for my DD Thanks for all the help!

And you have listed all the benefits of an ea82 :-\ But at least it's a time saving and money saving benefit, but it's still about the only benefit. Gotta lov'em

You sure about this? I don't have them, 1990 Loyale Turbo. I have the manual seatbelts. I don't think I would have bought it if it had auto seatbelts I's gots a 1990 Loyale Turbo I believe 1990 was the year they changed the name to Loyale, it was also the same year Subaru introduced the Legacy IIRC...

As for the tach issue, I would check your grounds and clean them off if you haven't already. Aside from that I honestly don't know. That's for sure a brain tickler...

You should check out his build thread... I think you will then understand It's pretty sweet I must say

You should check out youtube and search for miles fox. He has a video series for changing the timing belt. It's a short video and shows what needs to be done. I would check those out and see if you have missed anything according to the videos... Just a thought. Oh, and a shameless plug for Miles Fox's videos too. They are fantastic I found the link for the timing belt video http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#p/u/14/ZG1p70E4VXc Good luck!

Ok, I am now giving an update on this and reviving it since I have a new problem and didn't want to give all the background already given here... I unfortunately didn't get the vac pump that I wanted, but I did come across a unit locally Now it wasn't just a bolt in procedure to get it to work, since I found a factory installed system, and I have a dealer installed system. I had to take the unit apart and remove all the cruise stuff on the vac pump unit, and then once that was done I was left with a vac pump, vac tank, and a pressure sensor for the vac pump plumbed into the vac tank. I then connected that to a relay and set it up to turn on when the system turns on, and viola! My cruise control works as it should And it was easier to do than I thought it would be I will post pics once I get them onto my computer... But now I have another problem... Since I got it all working, I want to add the cruise control buttons onto the steering wheel. so I got the controls, and I installed them onto my wheel, but when I went to plug them into my steering wheel, I realize that I only have one male connector (for the horn) when the other car the controls came off of had 3 male connectors (1 for the horn, 2 for the cruise controls). So my question is this, how can I get just the ring that has the 3 connectors on it so I can run the wires from the wheel to the steering column? I am guessing it is a ring but I really don't know... It could be connected to the steering wheel as well, which would mean I would have to replace the whole wheel, and that sucks I unfortunately do not have a steering wheel puller handy so I can't just take mine off and take a look, so any insight into this would be super helpful, or ideas to run the two wires from the wheel to the steering column. My FSM doesn't really show any helpful info either. From what I gather from my FSM is, it's part of the wheel, but I am hoping I am wrong and reading the FSM wrong. Thanks for the help, again!

Is that a ground effects kit I see on it? That looks sick, good work!

I am interested to see how this turns out for you. You didn't happed to document this when you were doing it did you? I would be very interested to see how you did it, and to see the results!

I think pics would be a good addition for sure! That way people can see what happens when you swap heads Or at least what happens when you pay a fool to do the work, and then he swaps the heads. At least this poor owner now has a competent mechanic working on it, so good for them the second time around

Wow, talk about taking WAY to much effort to fix an easy, and obvious problem... I would stop and think to myself, this is not right, let's look at this again, it did not look this way before I touched it. Not, hmm, I am going to fab up some stuff to make this work correctly again, even though it was fine before I got it and it didn't need any fab work before it came to me... Let's see what do I have laying around to "fix" this new problem... Wow, just wow. That takes a special someone to do that, and then to accept it back from the mechanic that way!?!?! I would kick the mechanic in the balls and tell him to keep his hands off of it and then just not pay him and drive away. What a tool... Good story though! I am curious though, did that mod make it go faster at least?

Found the link... http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html Have fun!

This should be posted in the new gen forum, so you might get some better help in the new gen forum...

Sounds good, I have a couple more people that also want to go wheelin' down here as well and I will PM you when we actually get a date together, I just haven't been able to go out because of my heater core and what not, but my heater core came today, so it looks like this weekend I might be putting that in, but we shall see...

Google it... I think there might be a post recently with some links to the site, but google is your friend for this one

Well, my advice would be sitting in front of the computer for hours and start digging through the archives Seriously though, I have and do that on a regular basis. More info and background info would also help others in trying to determine your problem, and should have been included in your first post and would have prevent the search function comment I am not trying to be rude or mean, but I always research the hell out of my problem, think about it for a while, write it down and include all the background research I have done and all the info gleaned from such research, re-read it, post, and the start researching some more. If all elses fails or I don't get answers fast enough, I go to the JY, grab my parts, try it and when it fails, add that to the post and keep on trying. Again, not trying to be too mean here, that just my process, and it seems to work well for me I honestly don't know all that much about fuel pumps and such and if I did I would help ya. There are some super smart people on this forum that I am sure can help, but it's slow as well on here at times, so just be patient. Good luck to ya, and I won't pollute this thread anymore with my rants

It's kinda funny, everyone knocks this guy for having ideas. There is nothing wrong with having ideas and writing them out. A forum is a great place to do that. You can get it all out of your head an onto paper, and then ask people what they think. Also with that being said, anyone can say what they want about the idea he has, but don't rag on him for creating posts/ideas. You can say the idea is stupid all you want, everyone has their opinion and a right to that opinion, but it's a little over the top to be treating this guy like a tool just because he likes to write his ideas down and then get opinions on them. Put the idea down, not the individual creating the idea. That's the great thing about a forum and the internet, anyone can access it, and anyone can add to it. Let's not trash anyone for creating ideas, just trash the idea Another great thing about the internet, you can ignore ANYONE you want to. It's easy, just don't read their posts. I think there is even a "blocking" feature for this site so you can "block" threads and reply's from certain people. You don't like uberoo's ideas and find him annoying and his threads stupid, block him, or better yet, just don't read his posts! Remember, I am sure that someone back in the day thought Thomas Edison's ideas where stupid! Not comparing uberoo to Thomas Edison or anything (no offense uberoo), I am just saying that some ideas may seem stupid at the time, but can change the way the world works in the future, one just never knows! Now that my rant is out of the way... Now I will also say that I don't think that this particular idea is that great of an idea. There just seems to be to many points of failure for this to be reliable in any way, which would make me not want to even attempt this. Also not to mention any debris that might get caught in the chain, since you would be offroading. The last time I checked, there are lost of things that would just LOVE to jam up a chain like trees, brush, dirt, mud, water, clay, you name it. Granted you could add a chain guard of some sort, but that wouldn't protect the chain from being smashed up against a tree. But that's just my opinion

Nice! I need to get up to capitol forest soon, looks like fun. I just need to fix my stupid heater core! Keep it up man! Good to see another wheelin' soob in the lacey area!

Good to see! I just found this thread yesterday and was curious about any updates... It looks bad rump roast. Looks like my spidy sense was tingling... Can't wait for the update!

I would try the search function... I have no experience with this issue, but the search button probably does I would just go to your local JY and get one, or just buy a new one, but that's just me...

I mounted my Hella 500FF on the front of my bumper, infront of the grill, rally style Works good. From what I have read about the law, in Washington at least, (keep in mind my only source on this is the internet and you know EVERYTHING you read on the internet is true:rolleyes:), is that in order for them to be wired into your brights, you have to have them something like a maxium of 2 or 3 feet off the ground for driving lights, and under 2 or 3 feet for fog lights. If they are higher than that, they have to be covered while driving. I have also heard that you can run them all the time, as long as you have a MAXIUM of four lights on at any one time, you probably won't get a ticket. So if you have your headlights on, driving lights on, and fog lights on at the same time, you will get pulled over, even if you had your brights on. It's just a matter of when. The fogs are also supposed to turn off with the brights... But it is up to the cop for that one, because the law says that driving lights can only be turned on with the brights, and fog lights are supposed to turn off when the brights turn on. Someone else feel free to correct me on this I am no expert... I have my hella's pointed WAY in, and the hit below the low beams that I don't get flashed by anyone, most of the time. So far so good on no ticket. I have passed several state patrol cars, and a couple local cops, and no one seemed to care. But my light are turned in enough they don't blind people, so I don't think it matters. Just be careful with how you aim them and if you run them all the time, just be prepared for a ticket. So all in all, if you want to get more lights for your brights, they have to be lower than the windshield (give or take some inches on that), at least in WA state, but I think the logic applies across the country... My .02

Here's where I put my boost gauge... Works great for me!