eulogious

Ya, just keep up on checking the oil and you should be good to go. That's what I do!

Most DMM will also read amps up to a point, usually between 10 and 20 amps for DC... So that might be an option as well. The fan should also list how much power it uses on it somewhere. I believe manufactures are required to list that info on the products they sell. Look on the motor itself and it should say. Oh, and most Bosch style relays are 30amp unless otherwise noted, and you can get bigger. I use a 70 amp relay for my ham radio gear in my car

My MR2 does the same thing, and I took it in and had it diagnosed as worn valve guides or valve stems. One or both of them, they weren't sure, but that is what causes that issue. It's been doing it for about 5 years now, and I haven't had any true issues with it at all. I wouldn't be too awfully worried about it

The fuse is only needed if the run of wire is longer than 18", to be technical. The fuse will not hurt anything if added and it's always better to be safe than sorry, but if the run is 18" of less, I don't bother with the fuse since it's not really needed and is just a wasted expense and something else to corrode and fail or at the very least it's something you need to check every so often. Either way it's something else to check/fail. Even the "nice" fuse holders will eventually corrode and start to fail at some point. I spent $50 on a "nice" fuse holder only to have it fail within 3 years. Circuit breakers have less of a problem with corroding and failing, but they still will, and they cost more money but are much better overall than a fuse holder. I will never install another fuse/fuse holder under the hood of my car again. Only circuit breakers. I run circuit breaker for my stereo in my car with an upgraded alt but no breaker/fuse from the alt to the batt since the run is about 18", and I have had no issues for the last 3-4 years

Nice dude! Glad to see she finally got what she wanted

Cool, it's all good man. Nah, I don't got the loyale anymore, I ran that puppy into a concrete median doing 70 MPH a few years back now... I got a 1990 leggy LS. I love my car The paddles required finding the right model of TCU (way harder than it sounds, trust me. Been looking for about 2 years and only found 1 that would actually work) so you can desolder the old ROM and then solder on a socket so you can use a new ROM with custom code that was written by presslab. I then installed the "DCCD" knob and the paddles. Works great with my leggy! Glad you got into an EJ series!

Thanks for the tip and the link. If I only had money now, lol.

05 Outback?! I have been away too long. Didn't even know you had that guy! Good for you man

And they are....??

Nice! So you are over here on the west side now? I will have to come check this thing out! Glad you will have time to to get back to this thing

Nice score man! We gonna see this one at the show this year?

This is a good idea, I like it. I am going to do this to my leggy. Thanks for the idea!

Ya the computer cases worked out well. This enough to mold easily, but still think enough that it won't break. Hopefully he will chime in I look forward to your email man!

Does anyone know whey registration is opening? Or did I miss it?

Cool you can make it again! Hope to see you there again!

Well technically that's a video, not a diagram. I don't do youtube. I am at work now, and I am remotely surfing the web, so youtube doesn't work that well over ssh. Pics/diagrams are much simpler and I can print them and refer to them much easier than a youtube video ;-) But from your response I take it you don't have a diagram then?

Ahh, I thought you didn't know why it wasn't working since you sounded confused that it wasn't working when it was connected to the coil pack... I guess I should've clarified my whole point with the digi dash swap story... The EA cars are looking for a 12v signal coming off the negative side of the coil (like your tach), while the EJ's use an output that the ECU creates, and it's not 12v coming right off of the ECU. So of course the ECU wire would not power the tach. That was the whole point of that story A 2.2 impreza wouldn't need an EJ swap I also wouldn't call running 2 wires "jerry-rigging". It's running 2 wires because you need 2 wires to get the full signal. I would come off of the coil myself, because taking apart the dash is a PITA, no matter how many times you have done it, not to mention putting it back together correctly. You are cramped on space behind the dash as well, so trying to solder a wire behind the dash is a PITA (and if I am doing something behind the dash it will be soldered so I don't ever have to worry about that connection again), but not so much when you are under the hood. This is of course just preference You got some diagrams that show the correct wire to tap into for anyone who wants to do this in the future?

The speedo can go wacky if the alt goes bad, I had that happen in my loyale. usually do to over voltage, not under voltage. But either way, yes, the speedo can be affect by the alt. Glad it's working again for you! Good luck!

This might help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129024 Explains the difference between 2-3 wire alts from the EJ's. I switched from a 3 wire alt to a 2 wire alt. HTH!

The black/blue wire from the ecu probably didn't work because it doesn't have the same voltage that those gauges are looking for (12v). In order to get a digi dash to work with an EJ swap, you need to wire a resistor in with another resistor so that you lower the threshold voltage that the digi dash is looking for, so based off of that, the black/blue wire is not 12v, which is probably what the gauges are looking for. By going off of the back of the gauge cluster, you found a 12v signal that the gauges needed. Another option would have been to hook into both sides of the coil pack at the same time... you could wire in some diodes for extra protection if you wanted. Because the EJ's are wasted spark and just fire one side of the coil pack or the other, you just needed another wire connecting the other side of the coil pack to get the "full" tach signal. The way you had it wired up the first time, you were only picking up the signal when one side of the coil pack was firing, not both sides, hence why your RPM's were cut in half. Of course this is just theory since I have not actually tried this. But that should explain your issues when you first wired up your tach. HTH!

In order to get the "warranty" alt, you don't need to tell them what year your car is. I got mine for my 1990 (yes, I installed the 1997 alt just fine) from Mike Scarf in Aubrun for $78. No core. Just $78. HTH!

Look up Turbone's car, he built a box for his intake on his rx out of an old computer case if I remember right. Seemed to work good. I am sure he's got pics around of it somewhere... Since I have been off the board for a while, I just noticed that you improved the shift points on your TCU... You think it will be better for me even though I got 4.11's? Could I get a copy of your ROM? My PM box is full, so email me @ harris dot donald at gmail dot com and we can talk about it off board... I need to get a eeprom burner, bad. Good work on your car man, it's freakin' sick! Keep up the good work man!

Just test the resistor, I doubt you fried it. It takes a lot of heat to really destroy a resistor. The biggest thing with the clocks is to clean up the dirty, old solder that shrunk. I didn't just heat up the existing solder that was there, I added more to it to fill in any gaps that were created from the solder shrinking, and from some of the cold solder joints from the factory... I fixed 2 clocks up no issues using this method... HTH

It was totally driveable, just wouldn't lockup the TQ, so my gas mileage was crappy. But it shifted fine through all the gears, just went down the freeway at 70 mph at around 3500 RPM instead of 2900 RPM. I have personally seen 3 bad TCU's, and I have fixed 2 of them. The TCU's do go bad, and it happens more often than you think. If this is the 3rd trans for the car, and they are still having issues, I would check the TCU. It's the only thing common between the trans besides the wiring. I would not buy the car until I tested it with another, known working TCU. If it's not the TCU, it's probably got wiring issues, and I would not just walk away, but I would be running away in a full sprint if it has wiring issues!

Hopefully not with the cheapo chinese "lifetime" warranty crap I slapped a '97 legacy subaru rebuilt alt in my 1990 for $78! Can't beat that price! Now I don't worry about having to replace the stupid thing when it fails, like the "lifetime" warranty crappy ones, and they ALWAYS fail! Glad you got it working!