eulogious

If you are planning on doing this in a legacy, then follow the rs25 link in the first post and it has some links to some FSM's. I don't know if they have a 1990 legacy or not, but it will get you started. I did this on my loyale, which has a completely different pinout and every thing, so I would NOT follow my exact instructions. I believe if you read through all the pages on the rs25 forum they mention what the wire is for the legacy. I can't remember if they do or not, but you might want to check there first, you will probably have better luck. For me, I don't see a point in wiring up a switch to activate FWD. I am not planning on trying ebrake turns or anything, so I see no point for my needs, which is why I just kept it simple. If you really want a good read, you should check out what presslab did with some paddle shifters. Search these forums for 4EAT paddle shifters, and you will be blown away by what that guy did. Seriously impressive stuff. I know my way around electronics, but not anywhere near what that guy knows. I am still waiting on my FSM's to arrive (should be any day now), and I will post back after I have some time to do a proper write up with the FSM scans.

When I was at the JY today I grabbed the passenger door actuator so I could add it as the driver side actuator, and in order for it to function properly, I had to take the actuator apart and rotate the lock bar 180 degrees in it's housing so that the lock bar would face up properly and have enough clearance to lock and unlock. With that being done, I am still about a 1/2" shy from connecting the lock bars up. So how did you "jerry-rig" up the gate actuator, since it's MUCH shorter than the right passenger door actuator? I figure that if all else fails, I will just re-drill the holes for the actuator 1/2" up the door from where it is now. Or I can tack weld the existing bar to the "new" actuator bar to make up the difference. The problem with the tack weld option is that I don't have a welder, or know how to weld. I have a buddy with a welder, but that just adds another layer to the project. If you could give me some hints as to what you did, I might be able to get around it with out welding. Thanks!

So I went out to the JY today to pick up a power door lock actuator, was only $8 , and checked out the wiring in the car I took the actuator from. So the switch to lock and unlock the door is the same size as the actuator itself, and already has all the connections needed to make adding in an actuator instead, super easy. I think that was what crazyman was referring to with the little connector, and having to swap a couple of wires. I can now replace the switch with the actuator and then just cut the connection in the cab for the relays and to tap into the system. I am really glad I went and checked out a JY first, now I have a much better understanding of how everything works, and it should be pretty easy to add an actuator in.

Yup, Yup, I found those a couple of days ago just to be able to make sure I could get them before I bid on it

Ok, so I made a drawing that makes what you said more clear, and I added in the wire colors from my hanyes manual... Are the colors the correct ones that you used? Here's the pic: I think that is what you were going for... Also since I am going to be using the 2 stage unlock, I am also going to have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit (basically just a DPDT switch for all intensive purposes) for the car, and just use the valet 562t for that. Since all the power door locks are controlled by the drivers door, if I install an actuator in the driver side door and unlock it, all the locks will be unlocked, so I have to bypass the stock power door lock controller unit, or I won't get the 2 stage unlock. With that being said, I am going to cut the wires coming off the stock controller unit (Yellow and Red/White) and run them back through the door, into the cab, along with the new actuator wires, unless I can find them in the cab... That way I can install the relays all in the cab, under the dash. This is the simplest way to bypass the stock control unit, and relocate everything into the cab to protect it from the environment. I think that this is the easiest way to accomplish the 2 stage unlock. Once I get my FSM, I might be able to locate the wires already in the cab and use those instead, but I will have to wait until I get my FSM to be able to verify that. What are you thoughts on this? Is my logic correct? I think that this statement might be referring to the wires in the cab, but I really don't know. Could you clarify this statement for me, thanks... I think you mean there is already a connector that you can use for this, but I am not sure. Thanks a bunch for the link about the relays. It makes sense now. I have never really had a need to use relays for anything up until this point. I have wired in power door locks before, but they were after market and plugged right into the new "brain" that I bought for it. No relays required. I have done plenty of soldering and wiring and working with LED's and circuit boards, but never really needed to wire in any relays for anything. It sounds like they will be useful to me in the future as well. Again, thanks for that. Also thanks for explaining how you did the relays as well. I don't think that I would have figured it out without some help pointing me in the correct direction. Especially since I didn't really understand relays. You just saved me a huge headache and lots of time. Thanks for helping me out!

Hey, so I just picked up the same Valet 562T system that you got (for only $20 go ebay ) and I had a few questions. From the sounds of it, you got the drivers side door to unlock separately from the others, like on modern cars, correct? So when you push the button once, it unlocks just the drivers, and then push it again to unlock them all? That would be sweet, and I am looking to do that. You mentioned that you wired in some relays, how did you setup that up? Relays are slightly confusing to me still, working on that... Also, did you get everything to work with the car, ie auto start, door intrusion, dome light control, etc? You got any tips to share for someone looking to install this unit soon? Any hangs ups that I should look out for? I am getting my FSM any day now, so that will help, but any pointers that you have would be really helpful, since you already wired it in Thanks!

When is that going down? That does sound like good times! I take it everyone come home with a tree I always go to u-cuts so...

Nice, I will have to check it out. I know where it is, I just haven't been there. I will put it on the list of places to go. Keep the ideas coming! Thanks!

I will go ahead and be nice here If you use the search function, it will get you a lot farther. What transmission do you have the 4 speed or the 3 speed, if it's the 4 speed it's the 4EAT and there is a thread start regarding that here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100399 It's still on the first page of the forum also, about 10-12 topics down If it's the 3 speed, search for it Good luck

Nope... I moved here from Seattle, so ya, I have no idea what is really around here... Hopefully it will snow soon!!

LOL, ya good times with subis I unfortunately have to replace my heater core, so wheeling is out for me until that gets fixed. Hopefully with in the next couple weeks. I will let you know and then maybe we can go wheelin'! I want to get my subi all muddy

Yes it should unlock with the rest of them, so I would check the connections and grounds and all that good stuff to see why it isn't working. My power door locks are only controlled my the drivers side (factory installed), meaning that the only way to unlock and lock all the locks at once is by using the drivers door. Otherwise I just unlock/lock that one door. I am going to install keyless entry in my wagon, and in order to do that, I am going to have to install a power door lock motor in the drivers door. So the drivers door is the only one that doesn't have a motor controlling the lock. The theory behind that is, since it's the only door that controls the lock, why do you need a motor. I hope that helps some...

Just a thought on this... Did you try the wires coming from the parking light switch on the steering column? They always have power, and they only do the parking lights. I seem to remember on my old wagon that I installed an alarm with keyless entry on that I used those wires. I had the lights flashing no matter what on that bad boy, but it's been too long since then to remember specifically, but you should be able to get it to work. My 2 cents... Edit, sorry to hijack this, my bad!! I just realized that... sorry

Hehe, ya I have taken it apart a little bit to install some LED's for a mod I did, and I also installed an aftermarket LED map light and a switch right next to the fan control knob, so I have taken it apart that much. This weekend I am going to go to the junkyard and take a part the dash there and put it back together so I have some experience working on a car I don't care about That way it should be quicker the second time and save me time and energy, and hopefully I won't break anything on mine At the junk yard now, there is a car that was recently taken apart for the heater core, so the dash is completely apart, so I will look at that and use that for a reference. I think I can also locate the bolts that you are talking about on the car that's apart, that way I know right where to look. Thanks for the tip!

That's what I was hoping for now I can choose my color for the dash lights At least something cool will happen because of this, of course other than the fact it won't leak or smell of antifreeze anymore

Ok so one more question for those who have taken the instrument panel out, to make the light green is there a green translucent cap over a white light, or is it a green light? I was thinking about rocking some red led lights to change up the instrument lights. Then it would match my kenwood deck, not to mention be badass

I can't wait for the snow. For the last few years I have driven a mr2 as my dd so when it snowed it didn't go anywhere, but not now! I live very close to tumwater, almost Lacey, off of the yelm highway. We should go wheelin' sometime, that way if I get stuck I have someone to pull me out

Wow, thanks all for the responses! I head up to Seattle every weekend, so I will have to check them out. Unfortunately my heater core went out, so the bumpers will have to wait for now until that gets fixed, so I won't be able to look for a little bit. I will be able to soon, but I must be responsible and fix the car first Again thanks all for the input, and anymore is welcome! I will post back once I am on the hunt again.

Nope, where's it at? Do keep in mind my subie is stock . Rockcandy sounds like it should be good

This is true, it looks like that is the correct size anyways. That's what I was really curious about. I will probably go through schmucks just because it's close. Maybe napa, they always tend to have better quality stuff. I will call tomorrow see what they say. So I figured since I have the dash out, I should replace all the instrument panel lights, that way I won't have to worry about them going out. So with that in mind, I also want to get LEDs to replace them, that way they would never burn out I found these that are drop in replacements for type 74 instrument lights: http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/74-x.html Different available instrument lights... http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html To add another question now... Are these the correct instrument lights? #74 was the part for the light that I found. Also, if I get these, should I get the HP (high power, 6 lumes) ones, or the normal (2 lumens) ones? I always tend to go with brighter must be better, but I don't know if it would be too bright and overpower stuff, meaning that I would have to turn them down, but turning it down also dims everything else that isn't as bright, therefore possibly making everything else super dim and unusable. so has anybody used LED's in this manner before? Maybe I will just order a set of both and then return the other set or just keep it... it's only $20 at the most What do you all think?

So today I decided to go out and try to find why recently I have been smelling antifreeze when my vents blow, so I topped off my radiator and went for a drive. Well, when I got back, my passenger side was flood with coolant, so I think that it's heater core replacement time Damnit. I just got the car, oh well. I then immediately jumped on here and searched for a how to or something like that. I got this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27537&highlight=EA82+Heater+core Sweet, a how to. Half the problem solved. So then it was off to find a heater core. I want to get a new one because I am going to be keeping the car a while, so I want to replace hard to replace stuff with new. This is what I have found. I found one at thepartsbin.com: http://www.thepartsbin.com/repsite/subaru~heater_core~reparts.html There are a couple of options, but it looks like the any of the ones that are 7-1/4 x 5-1/2" x 2", Inlet Size Of 5/8", Outlet Size Of 5/8 will fit. Am I correct? I haven't been able to find an exact one for a 1990 loyale turbo wagon, but it looks like all the other ea82's take this same size. I then headed over to ebay to see what was there. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280412305759&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33548 I then found out that the demensions are the same as the others ones, so would this one fit? It's half the price, so it seems like a good deal, but I don't know. So my questions are these: 1. Am I correct about replacing the heater core? Sounds like it but I am not sure. 2. Is 7-1/4 x 5-1/2" x 2", Inlet Size Of 5/8", Outlet Size Of 5/8 the correct size for my 1990 loyale turbo, and will the one from ebay work for me? 3. Has anyone had any luck with ordering one off of ebay, or should I spend the extra $30 for the other one from thepartbin? I think that just about does it. Thanks in advance for the help!

tube... I am not really sure what size...

I am not really in a hurry, I am just trying to get some ideas on where to go to look. So you don't have to rush anything Thanks for checking! I am also wililng to pay, just not a bunch

I have only taken apart the driver and passenger doors, but there is just a connector for the wiring on the panel, so undo the connector and the panel is free from the door, super easy. This was on the front, but I don't see the back being any different from the passenger door... I have not done a motor swap though so I don't know on that one. I just wanted a couple of backups from a car that hasn't sat outside for who knows how long and been torn into by who knows who, that's why I got the motors from the dude on here. At least my chances of getting a good motor are better that way

They look like they have a bunch of stuff, and still in business I will have to give them a call and see about their scrap. Either way it looks like I would be able to buy whatever I need new from them as well. I will keep them in mind. Thanks for the link!