eulogious

So I got the 185/80/13 winter trax mounted up today, and they look good Fills the wheel well a lot better. That and the tread is pretty aggresive for a 13" rim Thanks all for the tips, especially the one to give the Fife store a call. Got'em for cheap too! Before (185/70/13): After (185/80/13): Pics of the Tires:

So I got the entire cruise control system (vac pump, controls, computer, and wire bundle) from mdjdc This now should solve all of my problems. Since I already have the reserve vac tank installed, I am just going to plumb it into the setup with the vac pump, that way it will always have enough vacuum to be able to do the cruise correctly Thanks all for the help and the idea of the reserve tank, that was golden. I will post back when I get everything installed and functioning properly. Man I love these forums!!

PM Sent...

Double Post...

I have also discovered the pinout for all the wires coming off of the cruise control computer, so I can now wire in either a legacy or the loyale one vac pump I am also going to try to wire in the steering wheel controls, since I now know what the wires are supposed to go to for the set-decel and resume-accel buttons. I also found out that the controls to power the cruise for the steering wheel controls are on the wiper controls, so I am going to be doing the intermittent wiper swap as well, since I am already there wiring in the cruise Kill two birds with one stone...

So I went to the JY and picked up a HVAC vacuum reserve tank and plumbed it into the cruise control, and my cruise now works WAY better I wouldn't say that it's 100% better, but about 90%. Going up long hills (1/2 mile fairly steep incline), the reserve isn't quite big enough to handle it. So instead of doing 70 all the way up the will, towards the end I might be doing 67 instead. Much better than the 50-55 I would have been doing before I have never been able to accelerate using the cruise either, and I can now accelerate going up small hills even! I was thinking about trying to plumb in another HVAC reserve tank, but I don't know if it's really worth it, but I might since the tank only cost me 3$ I am still looking for the vac pump, that way I will never have an issue again... I have a lead on one, but nothing confirmed quite yet.

Here's some photo's of the cruise control vacuum unit that I have now.

I like your thinking! I think I may have found a vac pump, but still waiting to confirm it's the correct one that I need. I will keep that on the back burner. I will just go to my local pick a part and grab one of the vac tanks from there and use that if I go that route. I like that idea though, good thinkin'

You mentioned that you installed a new thermostat, did you install one from the dealer, or one from the local parts store? From what I hear, the dealer ones are the only ones that work, and all the other ones cause issues with overheating and such. Other than that, maybe it's clogged somewhere in the system and a good flush might help??

I have the exact same issue. Pump pumps, but it all comes out the rear quarter panel. I have not looked at it too much yet...

Sweet, I will keep that in mind. I think that I am going to wait a little while to see if I can find one for a loyale... I am also waiting on my FSM's to arrive (thanks moosens!) so I can look at the wiring for it. The FSM should have the stock vacuum pump on it, so maybe I can compare wire colors/locations to the one that I have (non vacuum pump) to get an idea on where to start with adding a legacy vacuum pump into the system... I went to my local pick a part and took some pictures of a vacuum pump off of a legacy to try to get an idea of what I need to do. The wires don't match of course, but I think I have found the power and the ground, so I have half the wires found, I just need to figure out the air valve and release valve, and I think I will be able to hook it up. I guess I could always just try it one way, and then then other, but I still would like to find the loyale vac pump first. The legacy vac pump should be the same as the loyale one, just different mounting hardware/wire colors, correct? It's not going to destroy what I have now is it? I mean it's got to produce more vacuum than my boosted manifold does I don't see how they could be all THAT different, considering the legacy was also around in 1990, I don't see them making a completely different setup for the two cars. Just modify one to fit in the other... But my thinking could be off on this.

Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I am in the same boat. I have a 1990 loyale turbo w/4EAT and I am thinking about doing the EJ swap as well, and I would like to keep my transmission. How did this turn out, or did it??

Ok, so I called the Dealer and asked, and it's $420!!! Wow, no thank you. I did get a part number though, it's 87053GA000. So I think that I am going to try to get a legacy one to work, unless I can find a used turbo one...

What kit did you buy? I am interested in doing this as well. Post your results with pics too please! I would like to see if it really is worth the price

I would check the simple things first, like tire balance. Off balance tires will cause a shuttering at a specific speed, depending on how far off they are off balance. That's where I would start.

Hello all, so I decided to look into why my dealer installed cruise control would never hold going up a hill. I set the cruise, and then when I approach a hill, it just slows down, like it was never applying more throttle. So I would then step on the gas, get over the hill, and all was good. I thought maybe the car doesn't have the power... But that doesn't make any sense, because it goes up the hill fine was I take over and apply more gas. Then I was thinking that maybe it had something to do with the fact that I have a turbo and that I create a positive pressure in the manifold while under boost. That's when I stumbled across this tidbit: This of course proved my theory of producing positive pressure having an affect on the cruise control, since I have the last option, the one with the control panel mounted on the dash to the right on the steering column, not to mention the original invoice from when the car was sold requesting cruise control, and also the invoice after the cruise control was installed in my car from the dealer. Stupid dealer, install a manifold vacuum system on a boosted car. Where did they expect vacuum to come from while under boost ESPECIALLY at freeway speeds where you use cruise most of the time!? Seriously, what idiots, they didn't think that all the way through, especially when there is a factory solution to the turbo problem So my question is this, does anybody know the part number of the factory cruise control vacuum pump for my 1990 loyale turbo wagon? I can't find it anywhere. All I can find is the legacy part number. Can I use a pump from a legacy if I can't find one for the loyale? I know there will be some rewiring required along with finding a place to mount the leagacy unit if I go that route. I guess I should also ask if anyone has one they want to get rid of, if you have one, PM me, I am interested...

Amen to that! Good to hear another subie can still run legally Congrats!

Ok, so I have installed the switch and everything works perfectly I did some testing too to see if the resistor pack really managed to do anything. So I wired up my switch and all, but I left the resistor pack ungrounded to see what the TCU would do. After my successful test drive, I turned the car off, and then turned it back on, and my power light flashed 16 times. Turn the car off and then back on again, the light wouldn't flash. I then started the car, flipped the switch on and then off, turned off the car, turned it back on and got the blinking lights again. Ok, so it works, but the TCU is getting the duty C solenoid error. This is what I was expecting. I then grounded the resistor pack, and then did the same experiment again. This time I got no error codes! So the resistor pack does prevent any errors. I will post back with more pics and info on how I did it all. Thanks everyone for all the help so I could do this mod!

This is true with the newer 4EAT's, basically from about 2000ish on from what I have read in the subject but I could be wrong. Mine is year 2 for the 4EAT, and it does not do this. I technically can't move the lever to first either. This might seem like an rump roast thing to say, but the cars that have a first on the gear shifter seem to have better luck than those that have a 1 hold button. I have the button I also tried it in a parking lot, no binding... Haven't tried it yet, but several others have, and have had no problems. The only time you should have errors, is on start up anyway from what I have read. If you start the car with the switch on, and no resistor pack, the AT Temp light will flash 16 times or so and then stop and never flash again. Other than that, you don't get any messages/errors I believe, even without the resistor pack. I could be wrong on this, but I don't think others have had any issue with TCU codes just running a simple switch. The only reason I am doing the resistor pack is because I like electronics, and if I can prevent a problem by using simple electronics, I will. Like I said before, that's just me Thanks for that! I will have to go give it a go and see what I can come up with. I already have the DPDT switch and a LED, so I am already with ya on that So I have built the resistor pack, now all I need is some time to go out and install the actual switch into the car. Hopfeully I will have time to get out tomorrow and take a closer look at everything. I will update when I make some more progress. Thanks everyone for your help! I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help, thanks!

I would try lubin' up the chassis in the back... In one of the manuals, either the FSM or the HTKYSA, it tells you how to lube it up. That's where I would start.

So I went ahead and pulled the connector apart to see what I was looking at, and I was looking at it wrong. The plug in the diagram goes to the TCU. It's female (DUH!) so now I know what a female connector looks like on a wiring diagram That's what happens when you assume I guess. You look like an rump roast! On a happier note, I have found the wire for the duty C solenoid And sure enough, the diagram that I have is the correct one, at least for the wire, up to that point. It changes somewhere along the way though. I ended up trimming the insulation back just enough to expose some bare wire, on the Green/Red wire in the engine bay going to the TCU, and tested it with my DMM. With the FWD fuse in place, the wires voltage is 8.6 just as expected, and with the FWD fuse removed, gear shift lever in 1st, and foot to the floor, the voltage reads .333 just as expected. YAY!! The sad news is that the wire does change color somewhere along the way. The Green/Red wire that is coming directly off the TCU, shows nothing when doing the same tests So now that I have found the correct wire, I am going to use the wire in the engine bay, and run wires into the car. I have to repair were I removed the insulation anyways, so I might as well use that spot to splice in. I also already have a spot to run through the firewall, since I did that while installing my boost gauge, so I will run the wire next to the boost line. I would still like to know what color that wire is once it gets inside the car and also have a diagram that I know is the correct one. Like I said the diagram that I have says the wire doesn't change color, but the Green/Red wire on the TCU is not the duty C solenoid wire, so ya... I will post back more after some more progress!

Nice clean, straight wagon! All you are missing is the lift with big fatty tires

Makes sense, still a tool shed either way... Edit: I reported it and a couple others i found while browsing

You my friend are a tool shed. What does this have to do with Subarus? Please check what forums you are at (DUH!) before posting stupid crap that is irrelevant to anything else in the forum, especially to old threads...

That makes sense. I thought about that too. I guess then my question is where does this plug go to/come from? If the are wires coming off of the transmission into the plug, then they are backwards, if they are coming from the TCU into the plug, then they are correct. I just don't know what the view is for that plug. I guess that's why I am confused. I just made the assumption that it was coming from the transmission (I really don't know how to read wiring diagrams), not the TCU, but you know what happens when you assume...