eulogious

I wasn't planning on guessing. I have a DMM that I am going to use to make sure that I get the correct wire before I start cutting. I DO NOT want to cut blindly into things and hope that it works out for the best I do not have an 88,89 or 90 FSM, let alone section 6 from any year. The FSM that I have I got off of the forums. That would be FANTASTIC if you could tell me what wire to splice into, if you could include the diagram for the 4EAT I would be eternally grateful. I have been looking for that since I got the car. The turbo doesn't change anything? I don't know if it does, obviously, but it did in the legacy, so I would like to just make sure... The location that I was going to use is directly off the TCU, well a few inches back from the connector anyways, then I have to run even less wires Under the kick panel was my second pick. I followed all the wires into that side of the car... Yup Yup, this is why I decided to abandon the idea of a 60/40 split circuit. defcon over at rs25 already made a variable circuit, but it was alot of work, for really no added benefit, besides to say you did Don't get me wrong, it's sweet, but really is of no use to me, that's why I decided to just do a switch. Way easier, and if something goes wrong in the future, WAY less to troubleshoot. There really is no need to mess with the TCU that much. It does a good job as it is, just on starts in crappy weather, it sucks, kinda. The TCU throwing out codes is not a big deal, I am just the type of guy who will spend 15 bucks on some resistors to prevent the errors, just because that's the way I am. The codes do no harm, but I like to mess with electronics and cars, especially when there is a How-to that tells you how to do it all, and then prevents anything from flashing at me. That's just me I had no idea that there was a valve that limits the maximum pressure mechanically. That statement proves that this mod really doesn't do any harm to the transmission. Thanks for that! *goes away all warm and fuzzy knowing his transmission is safe* Gloyale, thanks for your insight! I appreciate everyone elses input so far as well! Thanks!

That's cool, I was talking more about the logic involved, and if anybody who knew about auto's could verify that logic. I should have worded it differently, but it's a moot point now... I have decided that I am not going to try to create a 60/40 split. After talking with defcon5 over at rs25, I decided that it's not really worth the bother. There's quite a bit more I would have to do in order for this to happen, and there would be very little benefit in doing so, so why bother. Besides that defcon5, several others over at rs25, and grossgary have not had any problems with this mod (as long as you use the mod correctly, which is what I will be doing). Now I am at the point of trying to locate the wire for the duty C solenoid. In doing even more research, I found this thread over at subaruxt where grossgary did this mod to his xt6: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1562&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=4eat+center+diff&start=15 So this gave me inspiration because I think that I am close. Using the diagrams that I got for the 4EAT show that same connector in my car, but the pinout numbers are different. It's a different car, so ya, that makes sense, but all the wires colors were the same. Sweet I thought, I will just go look at my car... I found the plug, but all the wires are on the opposite side. The same colors, just flipped like this (it won't put in the spaces so the formating is messed up, but you get the idea): Diagram: 2 1 6 5 4 3 10 9 8 7 12 11 Mine: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Does that make sense? The order and color of the wires are the same for my car, just on the other side. Here's the diagram that I am referring to. The red circles are what I think the Duty C Solenoid circuit is. The blue rectangle is the plug that I am referring to that is flipped on me. I think the reason for this is because I have a turbo. Defcon mentioned that the legacy turbo wire color was different from the NA, so it would make sense that they would change the layout to make it different on the turbo, if you follow that same logic. I also noticed that there was no "green/red" wire coming off of the plug, at first. This confused me a little. After looking at the plug some more, I found the "green/red" wire going into the plug from the transmission, and the color of the wire coming out going to the inside/TCU was a "pastel" green/red wire. It's totally lighter and a different shade of green than the one coming off of the transmission. That was my AH HA!! moment. When I was looking for the green/red wire, I was looking for a DARK green and red wire, not a PASTEL one :| So I followed this wire as far as I could until it went inside the car. I then proceeded to look at my TCU and see if there was a pastel green/red wire on it. Sure enough there is But I don't want to get too excited, as I don't have my DMM on me, I can't test it to find out for sure until I get home and have the time. There is no dark green/red anywhere else but there are several other dark green wires, so I thought that the green/red one would be the same shade as the others. grossgary, was this the wire that you ended up using (the one in the engine bay) for this mod? I can almost smell success...

Anyone?? I guess my main concern is my idea about the 60/40 split and is this going to solve the issue with the internal spool valve? I know nothing about automatic transmissions, so if anyone with knowledge about auto trannys could help me out with this, that would be sweet! I don't want to continue researching this if it won't have any improvement over just installing a switch. I am making progress answering all my other questions, but if anyone else can help it would save me some time! Thanks!

Exactly my thinking. That's why I am going to do it, even if I can't get the voltage limiting circuit working. I was just going to put a switch in, and then I found the other thread, which starting spawning ideas from there and here I am... I just don't like to have loose ends (the TCU throwing out codes) if I can prevent it, especially if someone has done all the work for me, all I have to do is follow directions I am also the type to try to experiment and like to mod things, so this makes for a good project. I would totally not be even going down the road of messing with anything that might involve a PWM circuit, but a really good friend of mine gets off on that stuff, so I figured it would give us both a sweet project to try. That's really the only reason I am doing it. Peace of mind is more of a side benefit in this case Thanks, I love the search button

Hello all, so I was reading around the internets today and I stumbled across this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite-12.html Once I found this out, I want to know more so I jumped over here and found these threads talking about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69794&highlight=4eat+locking http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65716&highlight=duty+solenoid http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 To sum up all the previous posts... In order to achive "true" AWD (meaning no delay/tire slip before AWD is active) you can disable the duty C solenoid (which is in charge of the MPT clutch on the 4EAT) and essential lock the MPT clutch to a 50/50 split ratio. Now when you just put a switch in to disable the duty C solenoid, the TCU will throw a fit and cause the AT Temp light to blink something like 16 times. In order to prevent the TCU from throwing out codes you can build a resistor block to fool the TCU into thinking that the solenoid is still there by providing the same resistance the solenoid provides so you don't get the blinking light and the TCU throwing out codes. Here's a diagram on the whole setup thanks to obsolete over at the rs25 forums for the diagram. It can also be found on page 5 in the first link. I take no credit for this: The biggest downside to this is you might blow your 4EAT up because you are causing too much hydraulic pressure to build up when you disconnect duty C solenoid because the internal spool valve is also controlled by the duty C solenoid and when internal spool valve closes it cause pressure in the clutchplates to build up and blow up the tranny. I am summarizing very quickly here, but that is the jist of the all the threads. So with all that in mind this is what I am thinking. I want to do all of this, but add another circuit in that would give a set amount of voltage to the duty C solenoid, say like 55% duty cycle (~55/45 split). This way the solenoid is not closed all the way, allowing the internal spool valve to remain partly open and not allowing pressure to build, solving most of the issues, but giving you instant 55/45 split allowing for better snow/mud/crap starts. I would just use a DPDT switch (or similar, not exactly sure what switch to use) and instead of connecting an LED up (maybe work on that later??) I would wire my new voltage limiting circuit to it instead. That way when I turn on the "diff lock" it would bypass the TCU, and activate my voltage limiting circuit at the same time I don't want this to turn into a discussion on whether this is a good idea or not (the mod itself), I am going to try it, and if all else fails I am going to do the mod following the instructions in the first post and take the risk. I want this to be a discussion on whether or not this idea will work... So I have 4 questions: 1. Am I on the right track here? The TCU sends a different voltage to the solenoid to control the split depending on conditions, so I should be able to do the same... 2. Does this idea solve the issues of building up pressure and the clutch plates failing? 3. Do I need a PWM controller circuit to reduce the voltage(PWM) to the duty C solenoid (much harder)? Or can I just use resistors to lower the voltage(non-PWM) to the duty C solenoid using the 12v from, say, the cigarette lighter (much easier)? 4. I am going to be doing this on my 1990 loyale turbo wagon w/4EAT, so does anybody know which wire goes from the TCU to the duty C soleniod on my car? I have the FSM, but it doesn't have anything for the 4EAT, and I can't find any wiring diagrams that I can read for my model (ae82), all I find is legacy and impreza stuff. I am going to be consulting with a good friend of mine who is an EE, so he should be able to help me with all the heavy lifting (soldering, math, etc) to try to make this work. Also, if I do succeed I will post diagrams and pictures with part numbers and all that jazz. This mod is awesome, but having the added benefit of not completely locking the MPT clutch would make it perfect, but I only hope ... More to come! Edit: I should add that I am not an EE in any way, shape or form. There is probably some technical stuff missing in here, but the concept is what's important

Thanks for the info! If I go down the intercooler path I will have to get one. Looks badass!

GD, what causes this, or is it normal? I had this happen on my 87 carbed wagon back in the day, and it happened recently on my 90 turbo wagon and I was curious on why it happened only in long sweeping right hand turns... stupid Seattle area on-ramps :-\

Is the hood scoop stock on your loyale? I want one. I have a '90 loyale turbo, and it doesn't have a hood scoop of all things! You would think that a turbo car would have a hood scoop...

I got to test out my AWD drive today, and I will say that I like it alot! It's nice to have it automatically kick in when you need it, like when you forget it's raining and try to cut out in front of a car going 50 only to realize that your tires have NO traction because it raining and all you are doing is spinning your tires, and then all of a sudden the back wheels kick in and save your rump roast from an accident. Ya, AWD is my new friend. Especially since I am not really going to go wheeling in this car so I don't need 4WD or low range. I was hesitant at first about AWD, but now me likey On a different note, that's some crazy rain!! I think all that rain in coming up to Washington, so that's what I have to look forward too soon... Sweet.

I found those also, but it says they are a specialty trailer tire which scared me away from them. Can you put them on a car? It says not to put them on a car or truck... Sweet, I will give them a call in the morning and see what they say about those. These are studless correct? The only ones that i was able to find looked like they had studs in them. I am guessing they come without studs and they add them if you want them at the store, but that is just a guess. Thanks for the heads up and I will post back with what they say.

Thanks for all the info man! I called around to a couple place very local to me, and none of them had any 185/80/13, nor did they want to try to find any for me. I think that I will try the greater Seattle area and see what I can come up with. Otherwise I think that I will go with another set of 185/70/13. There's a nice kuhmo tire that looks good in that size... but I am not giving up quite yet!

Thanks for all the info! Hopefully this week I will be able to do a little more research and see what I can come up with. If all else fails, I will just get 185/70/13 tires and just lift it sooner I will post back later, and hopefully I will have some good news!

Are you talking about the goodyear marathons (I think that is what they are called)? I have only found those in a "trailer" tire... but I will check out wal-mart on that one. Anybody else have any luck with this size?

Hello all, I am looking to buy new tires for my loyale and I would like to get 185/80/13 tires but I am having no luck in finding any store with this size. I have 185/70/13 on it right now and I would like something a little bigger. I know that you can get a good 185/70/13 from just about anywhere, just not the 185/80/13. From what I have read manufactures have basically stopped making this size tire. Is this true? If anyone has purchased this size tire recently, could you tell me where? Like I said, I have search these forums and google with no luck so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Good to see another new '90 Loyale AWD Turbo wagon owner! I picked mine up about 2 weeks ago with under 200,000 miles on it. I love it so far. As for the more info, here's a link to the ae82 fsm, ae82 gregory's manual, and HTKYSA. Download the PDF's and print them if you can. Each of these manuals is about 300 pages though. I just happen to work some where I can print that much and it's ok. But I digress. They have SO MUCH info on the car it's not even funny. There's info in there on how to change the idle RPM. There's an idle adjustment screw behind the manifold, just in front of the spare tire. There are good pics in the manuals mentioned above. Mine was idling pretty high, so I turned it down a little, and it's much better. It took me a while to find/track down these manuals, so enjoy them and thanks to all the forum members for posting them! All credit goes to them. The biggest thing that I have read and that has already been said here is to replace the radiator. Heat KILLS the heads on the ae82t. Buy a 2 core one and put that in. Search the forums for more info on that. I have also read to not try to get more boost/power out of the engine, ie change the waste gate, up the boost, etc.. It just makes it more unstable. I plan on running stock boost always. No need to stress the little engine anymore than it already is! I also installed a boost gauge to make sure that the turbo is producing the correct amount of boost and functioning properly. The boost gauge also will work in helping to spot problems early on because you can tell when it's not boosting the way it should. Another thing that I am going to be doing very soon is flushing all the fluids in the car. Transmission (drain and fill 3 times), diffs, oil, radiator, power steering, brakes, all of them. I think that I am also going to be running some seafoam through the engine also. Read up on the pros and cons of seafoam in the forums, I don't want to start a debate on that I think that it will do my engine some good, so I am going to do all of that. That way I also know that all the fluids are good. That is all the advice that I have read on the turbo. I am just going to run in stock, not drive it super hard, and just enjoy the little extra power that I get out of it having a turbo, and I expect to have a long life out of this motor and the car.

Ok, I have driven about 600 miles so far, and I have not had any problems with the dipstick popping out so I would say that I have solved this issue Quick recap. My tranny dipstick was popping out while I was under boost. The tranny vent hoses were connected to the intake manifold, and therefore when I produced boost, it was blowing into the tranny, causing the dipstick to be pushed out. Disconnecting the vent hoses from the manifold solved the problem! Thanks everyone for your help in solving this!

Same place as on post #22. I just removed the cap I put on it and replaced it with the boost line that I ran for the gauge...

That link didn't work... but I think that I found one that does. I grabbed them off of this link: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx Is this the same thing? This doesn't include the transmission Anyone know where I can get the service manual for that? Thanks!

When I first got my car, the A/C belt wasn't attached so the A/C wasn't working, and when I put it on "heat" the car would jump up to 2000 rpm at idle and stay there never going back to "normal" until I changed the setting. When I put the A/C belt on and the A/C started working, this behavior stopped. Now while idling, every few minutes the rpms jump up to 1300 or so, but that normal in older cars. My 1985 MR2 did this when it had A/C. I only had an issue when my A/C was not working. I have been running my A/C during the winter for years. I hate foggy windows Just my 2 cents...

Update: So I was looking for a better spot to tap into for my boost gauge, and I decided to try the "mystery" nipple that the tranny vent hoses were connected to. I figured what would it hurt, and that way I could see what it did. After I attached it, I went for a drive, and sure enough it's a direct reading off the intake manifold so when I was at full boost, it was pushing 7lbs of boost into the tranny !!!! No wonder the dipstick was being pushed out! So now that is where I am going to keep my boost gauge connected to. So far it's given me the most stable reading on boost/vacuum out of all the spots I tried. After all the driving I am going to do this weekend, I will update again...

Good tip. I will try that this weekend. So far the dipstick has behaved it's self. I took it to Seattle today and back, and did have a problem! I haven't noticed any problems with anything after disconnecting the hose, so I think that it's all good. After I get a chance to double check/clean everything I will post back and mark this solved if it checks out. Thanks again everyone for saving me a trip to the mechanic!

I knew that the transmission was electronic, but I know nothing about transmissions so I didn't know it wouldn't have vacuum lines I have already run the short hoses for the vents, and I have also capped off the nipple it was connected to. Where would I find the FSM for this car? I have never heard of an FSM before. Do you happen to have a more detailed picture of the transmission? Thanks!

Anybody have any ideas on this?? I just want to make sure that nothing is going to get messed up. Any more ideas would be great! Thanks all for the help and support so far!

Ok, so I disconnected the hose from the motor and went on the same drive that I did yesterday, and the dipstick didn't get pushed out like it did yesterday!! But I don't want to be too excited yet, I have to put some more miles on it to make sure it's solved. There is a couple of things that I noticed when I disconnected the hose. First, the hose was about 2 size larger then the nipple it was connected to, hence the hose clamp on it :| Second, when I blew into the hose connected on the engine, air passed through, but it seemed like it was leaking out some where, not flowing freely like I excepted it to, so I think that it was leaking out by the hose clamp, but it was restricted enough to not let the tranny vent when it needed to, which caused the dipstick to get pushed out. Also, it now shifts great from first to second. It used to make a slight "clunk" from first to second, but not anymore. I guess that's just an added benefit for having the transmission being able to breath correctly. I am just happy that it was a super easy fix, and I solve 2 problems at once Is it possible that having the tranny vent properly would cause the clunk to go away? And finally, does anyone know what is supposed to be connected there, if anything at all? Here's a few picks showing the location. I eneded up putting a cap over the nipple. That's the black thing in the picture. How it was before: And now:

I guess I should have clarified myself a bit better, the hose isn't clogged, it's in the tranny that is. That's why I mention the tranny flush I tried to stick some thin wire down the vent hole, but that didn't solve anything... So I don't have to plug off where the hose is connecting to the engine? I don't want to cause any vacuum issues. I already have to deal with this So '88 was the first year for the 4EAT, I was close Damn you google for telling me lies!