eulogious

A little late to the game here, but I have fixed my 62" HDTV that had 130 bad SMD caps between 5 motherboards when I got it. It's been 2 months since I fixed that bad boy and haven't had a problem since. Needless to say, I have gotten pretty damn good at soldering stuff, especially surface mount stuff. Through hole is a piece of cake. Took me less than 5 min to solder in a resistor to fix a ej swapped digidash tach If you want to send it up to me, I can take a look at it. LMK!

I bought the $25 one at Schmucks. I have had it for about 3 years, and I have yet to have a problem with it. I use it ALL THE TIME. For the money, I am very happy with it. Next one I buy will be a fluke. I use it way too much to not want a NICE one...

Count me in! 2nd show for me! This is going to be a blast! MUDPIT!

If I can manage to get some money for tires, and then swap my transmission, I will want to do some wheeling... I am hoping to get this all done by the show, so I will have a lifted rig at this years show!

Just take it back and DEMAND they replace it, whether it "tests" bad or not. If it doesn't work in my car, I don't care what your stupid tester says, REPLACE IT! That's the stand I would take with them if it was me! Good luck!

Just reporting back that the resistor trick works just fine! I installed the digi dash I did this to last sunday. It's pretty cool to see the RPM bars move Thanks dood for figuring out what needed to be done!

DooD! Nice! Paddles, and now an EJ20G! Good god that car HAS to be fun! Looks really clean, good job man! Oh, and thanks for the resistor trick with the digi dash, works FANTASTIC! You rock man, yet again!

Glad to see you back man!

I am in for sure! This will be #2 for me! Looking forward to it, and finally seeing the infamous mudpit!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129024 My write up on the EJ alt swap. I would just order the '97 alt from the dealer. It was going to cost me about $100 to rebuild the stock alt locally from a good alt rebuild shop, and only $78 for the newer EJ alt from the dealer. Just go with the dealer alt if you are trying to save money. Other reason I would go with the newer alt is that if it fails again, you have an alt that is off of a newer car and you might have better luck finding something that will work with newer gen parts.

Don't go cheap, and don't use butt splices. I have been installing car audio system as a hobby for years, and I have seen my own work fail because I used cheap parts and didn't solder. Do it once and do it right. Because I installed a 1000w RMS stereo system into my soob, I have replaced almost all the original wire attaching to the battery with good aftermarket stuff. My 2 battery terminals are worth $50 a piece, and I will gladly spend that money again. They don't corrode, and I can get rid of those stupid ring terminals they use from the factory. You can get much better ring terminals that don't require crimping or soldering as well. At the end of the day, to do what you are asking for properly so it won't cost you anymore in the future is going to cost more the $15. Good quality 4awg wire will cost you $3-4 a foot, and 0awg will cost $5-6 a foot, and you will need at least 10 feet of 4awg at the minimum, so you are looking at about $30-40 in wire alone, and that doesn't include any terminals. Honestly I would say you would need about $150 to replace the original battery terminals with something that will last and to replace all the original wire and ring terminals. No way to get around it, if you want to do it right. I have probably $200+ worth of wire and terminals in my car alone! Granted I have run a bunch of wire for my stereo, but most of it is tied up with stuff under my hood that I replaced or added to. I have never been impressed with the factory wiring on most cars, so that's one of the first things I replace. I basically do the "Big 3" to start when upgrading my wiring. Google "Big 3" wire upgrade and you should gets lots of good info back. Of course my estimate is using really nice aftermarket car stereo stuff as well. You can find "generic" stuff that might be cheaper (looks like GD linked to a good source) and not look as pretty but still be functional, but it's still going to cost you somewhere between $50-100 all said and done, even using "generic" stuff, to do it right. If you don't mind re-doing your work every so ofter because it fails, then do it cheaply. Because you WILL be redoing your work if you cheap out and end up keeping the car. Just my .02 Good luck!

That forward engagement thread is basically the same problem. My leggy is doing the same thing. When the transmission disengages to "coast" in the corners and tries to re-engage when it needs to there is a lag. It does after I stop and try to go again. It will rev up to about 2k and then slam into gear. Transx helped ALOT, and so did a drain and fill (x3). I've got a replacement trans sitting in storage waiting for me to have some time to swap it out. That's the only true fix I have read about. If you don't want to take it to the dealer, just do a drain and fill, 3 times. But since it sounds like you have a warranty, I would take it into Subaru. There is something wrong with your trans. Any tech worth his salt will be able to tell that it is not acting normal. If you do get it fixed, please try to find out what they replaced or what the issue is and post back here. I haven't been able to figure out exactly what part is broken on my trans, so if SOA can figure out the issue, I would really like to know since I have a very similar problem! Thanks!

Looks like you got it figured out, at least in theory I will be following this thread so if you run into some issues while trying to get it too work, just ask! Apparently life makes it so I can't have as much free time to post as I used to, but I will try to check and offer a quick response if need be. Good luck man!

I ended up only having a 1 watt resistor, but it will be MORE than enough The only issue I had was that it's bigger than a 1/4 watt, so it was a tight squeeze. Yup, same procedure I did on the 88 (I think) I have. Well just about. I had to undo some bolts, and move some stuff around, but I soldered it to the back side of the other resistor. I haven't tested it yet, but I will this weekend!

Dood, you rock, again! I am going to go home and try this on a buddies digi dash. I think I even have a 1k resistor as well Looks like you just used a 1/4 watt resistor? Shouldn't need anything bigger than that I would think. Looks simple enough. I will report back if this works for me!

All of what I am about to say is just off the top of my head with no research done to verify it, so keep that in mind That and I am about to hit the sack and go to bed, so I am a little tired. I will have more time tomorrow at work to look into this a little bit more and confirm what I am about to say. If all you want is to go to the EJ TCU, that should be fairly straight forward. The biggest thing is if you want the AWD to work is that the TCU matches the trans and diff ratios. Without modifying the code, that is the one thing you need to make sure of. The TCU has those ratios hard coded into it, and you can be a little ways off and it MIGHT work, it mostly likely won't. I know 3.7 to 4.11 throws a code for sure. That's the important thing with the AWD. The manual mode still works for sure. My custom code uses that "function" for the paddles. It just extends the manual function to all gears all the time, but still uses it. So it's still intact. I use the input for something else, so I don't have the manual button any more, but I don't care. But if you are just using a stock EJ TCU, then yes, just activate the manual input on the TCU and it should work as normal. But keep in mind that the stock behavior in 1st and 2nd in manual mode is to lock in in "4wd". Don't know if this is what you want or not. You probably know that, but just want to remind ya of it. As for the "1 hold" button working for the "1st gear" position, I don't see why it shouldn't work. I think the TCU gets it's input from the inhibitor switch, which is what would tell it that it's in 1st. So it's just a switch. You should be able to wire up the existing "1 hold" switch, or any momentary switch for that matter, no problems. Just need to figure out if it needs a ground or positive input. Looks like you've done your homework and everything else you said looks good. I believe you have all of your bases covered as to what the EJ TCU needs. The hard part is wiring the stupid thing in! Not hard, just time consuming, and there isn't a ton of space to work. It just takes time. But nothing you can't handle I am sure If I can managed to get it wired up properly the 1st time, I have all faith you can too :-p Hope that gives you something to chew on! I will post more tomorrow!

This thread should answer all your questions... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109402 Austin help with the development on the SJR lift for the EJ, and the thread details almost everything you need to do. I got a 3" SJR lift sitting in my living room just waiting to be installed. Comes with all the bolts/nuts you need, but that's about it. You need to lengthen the steering shaft, and change the bottom radiator hose/fitting, but that's about it. Should be able to do it with all the "normal" tools. Impacts will probably help fight through the rust/grim, but you should be able to do it with "normal" tools fairly easily. Nothing special tool wise I think. Will probably take a full day if you know what you are doing, I would plan on 2 days if you have never done this before. When I do mine, I am planning on it taking 2 days. HTH!

Just leave it unlocked with the keys in it. If they are going to steal it, at least make sure it won't be broken into I wouldn't worry too much about it. You got it back, so that's all that matters. If it happens again, then I would be worried. But if it only happens once, meh. I have bigger things to worry about! BUT if I was to do something like that I would just activate the starter kill on my remote start system. That way when I lock the car with the remotes, it won't start until I unlock it with the remote. It will start remotely, but if I don't unlock it with the remote before getting into it, it will just die when I try to leave. It's a nice feature. I don't have it enabled now because I just don't care. Along those same line you could install an "alarm system" but just not actually install the "alarm" part. Just have the keyless entry and the starter kill functions. Just a thought. Just for fun though, I would leave a note on the dash (all the time) asking them to atleast fill it up next time!

Run without the covers, guys do it all the time. If I still had my loyale wagon, I would be running without the belt covers on and wouldn't think twice about it. Guys on here have offroaded pretty hard without having the belt covers on and they all seem to have no issue. On my '90 leggy, I am not running the outside covers on it, and I haven't had a problem either. Different car of course, but same principal. HTH!

Nice! I will have to consider that for sure! Thanks for the info! I will keep this in mind!

KYB 235632 KYB 335021 I forget which is front/back, but those are the part numbers I am going to buy when I install my 3" SJR lift on my '90 leggy. You need the springs as well as the struts (obviously). I am going to use 98-01 Forrester springs with my setup. Subaru Part Numbers: Front: 20330FC060 Rear: 20380FC130 Last time I checked the whole shebang cost a smidge over $500. Then you need the tires for another $500. It's kinda pricey, but an awesome upgrade. I just need $1K to complete my lift... This is the same setup "TheLoyale" used when he lifted his, and it worked great. So I just copied him HTH!

+1000 This looks like a fun project man, good luck with it! Tom, please tell me you are NOT installing HID's? I just couldn't resist myself, I had to say it :-p

This is a car forum right? Remind me again why we are talking about firewalls and getting hacked? Last time I checked firewalls and hacking and nothing to do with "lifters". Nobody cares that you can't figure out your computer or if your damn firewall keeps turning off. And no one cares if you don't like GD, so why do we just not mention those topics again and keep those thoughts to yourself, or use PM's, that is what they are there for. Sound good? Nobody really cares about your "issues", seriously. If you need help with being "hacked", post it in the off topic section. And if you were really concerned about being hacked from visiting this site, talk to ShawnW, he should be able to tell if that site has been "hacked", and if your account as been compromised due to the so called hacking.

Seriously man? Are you being serious? Do you really think you are THAT special? You really have no idea what you are talking about, at all, when it comes to this stuff and it clearly shows. If you did you would realize who crazy and stupid you sound. Even a "card carrying software engineer" (whatever the hell that is supposed to mean) can't pull off hacking a site with ease. It takes time and energy, and really a true loathing of the entity to really want to put that much effort into something like that. And from the sounds of it, you ARE NOT THAT SPECIAL to warrant that treatment. So seriously go take your crackpot "theories" somewhere else, they don't belong on a car forum. And why do you ALWAYS have to bring GD up in stuff? It's getting old man. There was no need to even mention him in this thread, but yet you did. Seriously grow up and let by gones be by gones. I didn't want to say anything but this is seriously getting old and stupid, so seriously do everyone a favor and just not bring up worthless stuff like this if it is not needed? Thanks. You seem like a smart guy, but this crap is seriously making you look foolish and making me want to ignore you so I don't have to read through this type of crap. Just a thought...