BEECHBM69

Lots of info on it found in search. Type in "5 lug swap" and a ton of threads come up. I tried to link to it, but the search apparently expires after a certain amount of time. Sorry for the confusion. Da

+3 That gives me an idea.......... Dan

I can vouch for this. I'd never done one before, and did both sides this way with no fanfare or trouble. Dan

So I've been tinkering with this thing for the last two months. Freshen up this, replace that, tool around the court. Rinse and repeat. Today I got tags and insurance. I had to take it for a full on run to shake the cobwebbs out. Note to self. After removing your spare tire to work on your (insert thing here,) be sure to replace it BEFORE you go on a 20 mile shakedown excursion with what you know to be crap tires to begin with. Don't ask me how I know this........... Which brings us back to the title of the thread. I changed my tire today in the parking lot of the Harley Store, AFTER my girlfriend brought me the spare in the back seat of her new Mustang........ She's a keeper. Dan

You did damn good. Be proud of your effort....... Dan

I'm not an expert on this sort of thing by any means, but if the tube were pressurized due to forward motion, would that overcome the length of the tubing, bends etc? I can see it being an issue when air is just being drawn in. Sorry for the sophomoric questions, I guess this is semi on topic still? Dan

Stupid question, but with the opening turned that way, would it function as a poor man's "ram air" of sorts at speed? Awesome hatch, and nice job on the fender opening btw. Dan

So I did a search for "EGR reset" (with quotations) and I came up with four threads each telling the original poster to "do a search." I removed the quotations and came up with seven pages of threads, waded through it, found what I needed but with no pictures. (Some of our imaginations are limited: pictures good) So, went outside, found the described plugs, and took pictures Green and blue in upper left corner under the fuse box next to the hood latch. Unplug one, plug into the other. EGR reset. I find this place an invaluable resource of information. I hope this helps in some small way when somebody else does a search Dan

It was, but outside of the one I had, I've never seen another one in person. Unfortunately, I didn't realize what I had when I had it. Oh to turn back time. Dan

There is much, much discussion on that in a different forum. I believe they determined it was a tow issue with the rear end. I haven't been over there in a long time, but the thread is HERE. They are up to 45 pages. Hopefully you find something in there useful. Dan

GD, I'm sure you hear this a lot, but you are my personal hero. My buddy showed up with beer, and logical thinking went out the window. My sincerest apologies for inquiring about what should have been obvious. I searched until I thought I wasn't "that guy." Damnit..... Dan

I got the seal off with out damaging it, and found the innards were clean. A little dry, but clean none the less. No sign of the redish brown stuff. Now to the next question. I got the axle in with no problems (thanks again USMB) and the inner boot looks like this...... I read something in my travels about relieving vacuum or some such? I tried it with a screwdriver and had no luck. Will this hurt anything or do I need to undo the clamp and straighten the boot. Dan

Thanks to the good people on this forum, I bought some EMPI axles, put my big boy pants on, and started the swap. When I got the old axle out, I found this...... The grease on the end was a brown, rustish color. I've read in the searches that the grease is supposed to be red. Would it be wishful thinking to say this was red? I cleaned it up further, and found this......... It's not burred, but I suspect the discoloration could be considered "scored." I'm guessing this probably isn't good either. So what started out as an axle swap, is going to turn into something completely different. I guess I'll carry my butt out there and take it apart the rest of the way and see what I'm dealing with. If everything is still intact, I may just repack them and call it good. I hate doing anything half way, but trying to find a 6207 C3 bearing around here is not going to be fun, and I really wanted to drive this thing today. Anyway, the point of my diatribe, (aside from venting) is to thank you guys for all the write up's and pictures. I know what I need to do, and how to do it, I'm just not fond of the idea right now Dan

Ummmm.......probably not, according to this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=817313&postcount=17 Dan

I did a little drillin', then I did a little bendin', then I got my 205/70/14s to fit with out hitting anything.

I have one of these on my "other" ride and it works very well. The only problem is I don't think the bed design of a Brat lends itself very well to the way it's secured. It uses C-clamps to secure a square, flat tube to the bedrail. This tube is what holds the snaps and hinge pin in place. I can take pictures if anybody's interested. Provided I won't get banned for posting pictures of an F-250 Ford on USMB Dan

I got these in the mail yesterday :banana: Anybody have some drilled hubs they want to let go of? I intended to drill the rims for simplicities sake, but the way they are made with the raised portion between the holes that probably is not a good idea. They came off a Nissan 2wd, 14x5. Should work out well. Dan

If you look at all 5 of his posts, they link to the same site, with the same sort of gibberish attached. Probably a bot spammer. Mods? Cleanup on aisle four. Dan

I'm tickled to death with it. I was actually looking for a wagon (who isn't), and this little gem fell in my lap. The nice young lady had it as a second back up car so it hasn't seen much use in the last five years or so. Little rust and low (relative to age) miles is a rarity around here. Thank you to the forum and it's members for rekindling my romance with all things Subaru. Dan

Hey all, I think I may have stumbled on a really good deal 87 GL Hatchback 4sp D/R, 122,000 original miles, and MINIMAL rust. Typical leaks, but runs and drives fine. I paid $900 for it Let the mods begin! Dan