BEECHBM69

It would appear Mr. Freddo is correct. I had done a search a year or so ago and found they were out of production. Apparently you can get them from Primitive Racing again. http://get-primitive.com/springs/544-king-springs-1985-1994-subaru-loyale.html#/type-wagon/standard_height_spri-full_set_front_and_r Dan

1. Check for vacuum leaks. 2. I don't think you can buy them new anymore for these cars, but they come up in the "for sale" portion of the forum from time to time. 3. Pugs are hard to find but steel 6x5.5s are a dime a dozen, particularly in 15" form. Drilling is easy, there's lots of info so I won't bore you with it. I put 14's with 195/70/14s on both my wagon and my hatch with no lift. The little bit of ground clearance gained is priceless, and it doesn't completely ruin the gearing (it's noticeable, but not debilitating.) on edit: 4. I found it easier to redrill wheels, others swear by drilling the hubs, but you have to do some grinding and weld the studs in if you don't get the holes exact. I wanted the option to go back stock, so I went with drilling wheels. Dan

That's GD's consensus. I doubt you will get any of us to agree..... I personally wouldn't own a Forester. When I run out of GL parts and can't keep my 3 on the road anymore, I will likely get out of Subarus altogether. It was a free car, and you plan to build a toy. As long as you look at it as a toy, and realize there may be some issues getting parts yesterday, you'll be fine. Anything can be sourced given enough time and effort (yes, even brand new oil pumps come up on eBay every once in a while.) There is also the "neato" factor of having something one off and unusual. "Oh wow! I haven't seen one of those in forever!" happens all the time. Good luck, whatever you decide to do. Dan

In GD's defense: Whereas I don't believe anything residing in my driveway is "dead" per se, I have the benefit of 20 years accumulated knowledge playing with these cars, as do most of you. In short, we all know what's up. When someone shows up who is uninitiated, it would be disingenuous for us to present these as viable daily drivers without some skill, knowledge, and other stuff to drive. These "new to Subaru" people need to be told in no uncertain terms the realities. That's what GD does. He's not emotionally attached (like most of us,) so he can tell the pure, unadulterated, ugly truth. Once they know what's up, and decide to press on, then we are here for emotional and parts sourcing support To the OP- Good luck with your build. You have other cars to drive, so this should be a fun project for you. Grab a beverage and read. There is a TON of information to sift through. Dan

That a car in that condition would be allowed to meet it's fate at the hands of a junkyard crusher. One man's trash is another man's treasure, eh? Dan

That's just criminal. Dan

Stripped hubs are from the cone washer being ridged and not seating properly, the concave washer being put on backwards and not holding torque, or not torquing the axle nut enough. From a physics standpoint, I don't see how the lift could have anything to do with it. Dan

A lot depends on the overall life you think the car will lead with you. If it's in great shape and you plan to keep it for a while, have a custom stainless system built. I want to say the two I've done were around $300 give or take, including the flow master stainless muffler. Not much more than the OEM part you were looking at, and you'll never have to touch it again. If it's just a beater, you can probably have a piece welded in for $50. Dan

Fixed that for you, all due respect of course Dan

The only green o-rings I've ever come across were in the A/C system. Dan

Electric choke if equipped, or idle stop/anti-diesel solenoid are the only two I can think of on an EA81 carb. Dan

I just pulled out my paper 1990 FSM because I was sure I could find it for you. Oddly, I can't. Every sensor and plug has a torque value, but not the mounting bolts. I've done several, and have never had an issue - but - from lessons learned in my past, I am conditioned to not put a 3/8 ratchet on anything 10mm. So I guess my answer is "snug with a 1/4" ratchet." EJ's are 5 ft/lbs, so I can't imagine an EA is much, if any more than that. Good luck! Dan

I wonder how many of us keep something on the shelf for "just in case," and it winds up never getting used and thrown in the scrap bin by our kids when we die. I guess I'll have to put something in writing for the entire contents of my "parts shed" to be given to the Subi community somehow....... Dan

Unless the engine has been abused (run without oil) these pumps don't generally "fail." You can still get the reseal kits, which will address any leak or aeration issues you may be experiencing. Dan

A lot of that is going to depend on what you are going to use it for, and what your level of mechanical aptitude is. It's an excellent little car, as long as you have something else to drive while you find parts, and you are able to do the work yourself. If you are trying to use it as a one and only daily, and can't fix it, then well..... not so much. Good luck! Dan

Two things that come immediately to mind. Something in the rotating assembly is binding up causing a lot of drag, which may be what broke your timing belt in the first place. (Idler, tensioner, or possibly oil pump) -or- One of your belts could be off a tooth. It's easy to do if you've never done them before. Recheck all the marks and make sure they are dead on. That doesn't account for the belt breaking, but would account for the drivability issues. Good luck. Dan

If you anticipate possibly having to fix something else, or in your case, need to monitor whether something needs fixed or not, I couldn't imagine going through the trouble of putting the covers back on. Even if it shortens the life of the belts by a few thousand miles, the difference in effort involved to change them (or anything else) is exponentially worthwhile in my opinion. I've had open belts for a few years now, BUT like DaveT, I don't offroad much. Dan

Since Subarule passed on the offer, I would be an interested buyer if you just want to get rid of it. I just "rescued" a 92 Loyale that "just quit running..... but the timing belts are good." They weren't.....lol Anyway, it has that compressor. Let me know. Dan

The shift linkage is notorious for getting loose, which makes for some interesting shifting, but that doesn't come and go, it just is. (At least in my experience.) I wonder if you've got motor and trans mounts that have gone bad allowing for things to move around under certain conditions? Sometimes it's sitting where it's supposed to, and other times maybe it's askew enough to cause issues? Not something I remember reading about, but it would allow for the inconsistency. Good luck! Dan

They made it right when I showed them what I had. The stock photo in the add was like mine, so I didn't think to specify (actually, I had no idea there was more than one back case ) Back of the back, vs side of the back. Glad it's all going to work out. Back to your deal already in progress with no further interruptions from me Dan

Not to be a pain, but if this means what I think it means, it won't work in his application. The bracket will be right about where the discharge is. It's the same one I got sent the first time. If by rear you mean the side of the back cover then I sincerely apologize. Dan On edit: Pictures attached.

This is the one I used. Going on two years, no issues. https://www.ebay.com/itm/REMAN-A-C-COMPRESSOR-COMFORT-TEMP-57453R-FITS-1994-SUBARU-LOYALE-1-8L/132232695464?epid=76242066&hash=item1ec9aecea8%3Ag%3AZsgAAOSwPWRZSDQ4&_nkw=57453&_from=R40&rt=nc There are (at least) two different back cases for this model compressor, the one you see with the rear fitting on the side of the back case, and one with the fitting on the back of the back case (the compressor itself is identical.) They sent the wrong case, but made it right with no cost to me, I just had to explain, "the one like in the picture," and attached a picture of what they sent vs what I had, with what was posted. Very nice people to deal with. And it won't work without the second belt. With only one belt, it will slip, and the lockup safety will kick the compressor out. Good luck! Dan

Ummmm..... guys? Operative word "missing." Dan

Thanks for the reminder I have that 2wd trans we talked about sitting on my garage floor if you want it, or anything off or out of it. Dan

This still shows having them: https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/oem-parts/subaru-cover-remote-inner-left-hand-760123200 Good luck! Dan