BEECHBM69

If I recall, Nardi use to make one as well, and may still. It was high dollar compared to the MOMO. At this point, I guess anything you find is going to be worth a fair amount. Good luck! Dan

737026033 Second column, fourth from the top. "Clutch release cable" Dan

Save yourself a lot of time and aggravation and get an OEM clutch cable. Don't waste your time with an aftermarket. Dan

I've read on here that hubs are interchangeable between EA81 and EA82 hubs, the only difference being offset. Some threads on the subject: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48592-front-hubs-ea81ea82/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148042-ea81-hub-question/ Good luck! Dan

If you don't get the cone washer on right, or don't get enough torque on the axle nut it will work loose and strip the splines out of the hub. That is much more common than either broken transmissions or even outright broken axles. Good luck! Dan

I just stripped the entire power steering system from an 84 turbo coupe. Much to my surprise, the pump, reservoir, and bracket were identical to the one on my EA82 wagon mounted in the center. This was different from my 83 coupe which has the pump off to the passenger side. It might be noteworthy that this particular specimen also had factory air. The only EA81 I've ever seen in person with such. Dan

Just did this over the winter with my 87 GL wagon. Exedy 15008 is what I used. 8 months later, no issues. Machine shop was $50 to resurface the flywheel. There are a bunch of threads on resealing the engine, so I won't bother going through all that. (You can google EA82 reseal and pull them up. The forum search is admittedly clunky sometimes.) Good luck. Two things come to mind that must be OEM: The cam tower o-rings, and the intake gaskets if you take the intake off. Dan

1. Buy a welder. I bought a lightly used Hobart Handler 140 with gas, helmet, gloves for $500. You can find them cheaper if you look around. I'm pretty much self taught. I figured out early on a grinder is the universal eraser. Screw it up, grind it off and do it again. 2. The EA82 rocker has a round outside edge. Preserve the body line under the doors at all costs. If the sill has holes, patch them separately. I made the mistake of cutting the entire thing out of my car on the first side and it was a major pain in the butt to recreate that body line from a rounded rocker panel. Lesson learned, preserve that edge. You can cut it a half inch under the corner and cut the new rocker to fit. 3. The rounded front of the rocker, that tucks up behind the bottom of the fender is not going to fit right. If that part is rusted out on yours (mine was) you can cut the end up and reshape it to work right. (If you have a welder.) 4. You can use fiberglass filler to chase pinholes. Skim coat with the cheap plastic. That's all I can think of at the moment. I just replaced the rockers on my hatch this past winter and learned a lot of stuff the hard way. If I can pass it on, it wasn't for nothing. On edit: 5. Get a spot weld cutter. It's basically a small hole saw with a spring loaded pin in the middle. You will need this to cut out the spot welds along the bottom, and preserve the metal behind it (if that's not rusted out, mine was.) Good luck! Dan

I've had a dry CV axle cause vibration. Went through everything else and it finally stopped when the CV failed completely and I replaced it. Good luck! Dan

The best suggestion you've gotten so far........ "Don't." Dan

Yes, yes....... scrap the EA Subaru plan. Relieve yourselves of the stress and anguish of owning one. All I need is an address. Put the signed title over the visor, and I'll be along shortly with my trailer to help you out. Dan

I'm sure the sample I had (ex gf's car) was less than representative. Though to be fair, I test drove a 2006 Outback, and found it to have that same "heavy" feeling. (Ex's was a 2000ish) I suspect I would enjoy an Impreza much better than it's bigger brother, though I have yet to drive one. I do understand your earlier point though. Like it if I want, but don't tell you it's logical...... Dan

So you drove a Legacy and liked it. I drove one and hated it. I found it to be a lumbering, uninspiring car to drive. I wish I could have been the benefactor of your generosity though........ Dan

Dude......... all due respect, but why do you care what we like? You are without question one of the resident experts, but why does it bother you so much that we like these cars and are preserving them for our own enjoyment and satisfaction? What am I missing? Dan

Did it let go completely all at once, or was it slipping in 5th before it wouldn't hold anymore? Slipping in 5th is usually the first sign of the clutch needing replacement or adjustment. Dan

I'm fairly certain I remember this being what people told you the issue was last time you posted. Dan

It always does. The subject seems not to matter. Dan

I've got Magnaflow stainless mufflers with two inch stainless pipe on all three of mine. A little rumble without being obnoxious at speed. Stainless is a little more expensive, but if you're planning on keeping the car, you'll never have to replace it. Dan

This is thoroughly entertaining, but you guys have way too much time on your hands......... Dan

The one on the radiator is the fan thermo switch. I'm fairly certain the one near the thermostat is the temp gauge sender. Not sure about the third one you referenced with the single spade. Whereabouts is that located? Dan

Only you can decide what it's worth, and how much effort you are willing to put into keeping it. I just spent 5 months, working a little everyday before work and weekends, to replace sheetmetal on my hatchback. I will never recoup the cost in time, energy and effort if I sold it, but it was a worthwhile endeavor to me, and that's all that matters. Dan

This sums it up quite nicely. I agree with everything else he said, but this part is germane to the OP. Dan

That is stunningly brilliant. I've got a cherry picker, but this is much more transportable in a bind. Dan

Your first issue sounds like the compressor going out. I had the same issue with my wagon. It would come on and seize, I would cut it off and back on and it would work the rest of the drive to work. The number of times I had to "reset" it increased to a point it was time to stop using it before it let go completely and spread its guts all over the system in tiny pieces. As to it being worthwhile to fix: You can order R134 online for slightly less than $5 a can in bulk. I used a 20% coupon from HF to by a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, and replaced the compressor. Works fine now, and I have used the tools to fix my other A/C (Don't forget the oil, and you will need to buy the 134 fittings, not expensive.) There are videos all over about how to properly charge your system, along with information on the forum about capacities and such. I have read here somewhere about bypassing the control panel and putting the compressor on a switch. (Person didn't want the compressor to run in defrost.) Might do a search and modify the info to fit your issue. Good luck! Dan

Those pipes though........ Dan