obk25xt

Nice, I dig it. Cool to see some jackmans in action too! Thumbs up....

I have what you need. It will bolt right up. I actually have Y-pipe, center section (with the cat already taken out), ant the rear section with just a glasspack. All of it is in working condition I took it off my car in preparation for a complete drivetrain swap. Let me know if you are interested.. Spencer

Bronze! Red+Bronze=smoove!

10-4 Roger that......

Engine in car? If yes, put socket on breaker bar, brace handle of breaker bar on drver side "frame," bump key and the bolt will loosen. Take care and be quick so the engine doesn't actually start-up, that's not what were going for here! Engine out of car..... There's a spot on either side of the engine where you can thread a bellhousing bolt in (horizontally) and it will come up against the flywheel, or into one of the stamped holes near the torque converter mounting holes. This will effectively "lock" the engine and you can loosen the bolt without it turning. Spencer

Been a while since I've done rear bearings, but I think ya, that nut has to be removed to pull the race. It will come out with a punch, but there's not a very good spot that's flat enough to use your punch. I think I used either a large socket or even a piece of squarestock to drive the old one out. I built a puller tool to install the new one. It was a pain.......

The outer race for both bearings is one piece, it slides into the control arm. Then both bearings go in there homes and everything is held in place by the axle/nut, and the externally threaded nut on the inner side of the bearing carrier. I can see it is still installed on your control arm too. You will have to remove that nut before the outer race will come out!

You buy the whole bearing assembly, $50-$60 ballpark if I remember. Replacing the inner race is a PITA. Edit: Just found one on rockauto for $30-ish.... http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219288 Edit Edit: I meant outer race!!

You mean outer? Unless I'm mistaken the inner one is pictured....

ya, they're different. the dualrange is 3.9 final drive. you need to swap the rear diff out for one with the same gear ratio to run in 4wd. the 3.9 rear diffs are abundant and shouldn't be hard to source. Spencer

IAC valve correctly hooked up?!

I've never done the SPFI swap so really I don't have much info on that. If the carbed car is nice like you say pick it up! Rather than swapping to FI you can also replace the finicky hitachi carb with a weber DGV series carb. They run super sweet, sound a little better, and provide improved power and economy. Really a good way to go on the carbed versions. Only downside is the kits can be between $250-$350 depending on how well you are at shopping! I did a weber swap once and rather than using the leak prone redline adapter, I bought one from trans-dapt out of jegs. It was for a datsun I think. If you search around this site you'll find a part # somewhere. I've even provided a couple links I think. Spencer

Avoid turbo's & automatics. FI is a good thing. Nothing wrong with the ea82 engines other than many places of potential oil leaks. IMO the most desirable ea82 series is a 1988 GL wagon, hi/lo trans, SPFI, and usually nicely appointed (for a late 80's econobox). Buy one, make sure the timing belts are good. While your in there remove ALL pieces of the t-belt covers (it'll make regular maintenance in there much easier). May want to replace the cam seals and front main seal too. Check and snug the oil pan bolts (I've run across countless engines with this issue). Happy hunting! Spencer

Spillmaster Euro Jr. *The* answer to all your cupholder issues. It is fastened with a screw into the little coin holder slots.

Just to bump this up...... OBDII harness is underway, Delta's are in the mix, ACT light flywheel is acquired (~10.5 lbs.), stainless header is ordered. Combine this with 4.11 AWD & clutch type LSD. Megan Racing coilovers too. Stay tuned!!!!!

I dunno..... Rubber..... I could say it's urethane and you'd probly believe me by the pliability of the material, but honestly I'm not sure what grade rubber it is. Look at post #24 in this thread....... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114061&page=3&highlight=finally+found

Have you seen the ones on my blue car? I have a bunch of material that can be used to make mudflaps. It's soft and flexible. I made mine as extensions to the oem ones but I'm sure you could make complete replacements as well.

I'm pretty sure that is an EA82 clutch cable which actually doesn't belong there.... That would somewhat explain the c-clamp.

Maybe you need to put your floor jack under the trans and lift it up a couple of inches. the engine mounts can interfere witht the crossmember if you're trying to just push it in without the trans being elevated.

You only need the rear control arms if....... You intend to run a rear swaybar, and...... Your loyale (most likely) doesn't already have one...... If you already have one and want to upgrade then at least grab the swaybar/bushings, as it's bigger than the ea82 series bars. The reason I say to grab the rear arms off the 6' is cause they have the swaybar mounts on them and I'm almost positive your 93 loyale does not.

DING DING DING! Winner! You'll be surprised how good it sounds too, I've had a couple cars with them in it and for the size they're pretty nice. I have an install guide for one also. It came in the glove box of my 2000 OB.

The trans crossmember needs to be from a manual trans. You may wanna grab the rear control arms and swaybar if you haven't all ready done so. Looks like you are a dooer, not just a talker, which I can respect! Be sure and show pics of the progress and stuff too....

Yes Yes Yes

5 lug- need xt6 rear hubs at minimum, everything else can be either bought new (rotors), rebuilt (xt6/ea series rear calipers), or built (backing plates/caliper brackets). YOU NEED THE XT6 HUBS!!!!!! The front can be either xt6 or 1st gen ej series stuff. I put ea inner doj's on xt6 axles. You need to either aqcuire xt6 front control arms or ream out the ea arms to accept the larger taper of the "new" ball joint. 6 lug- just gotta be accurate with layout, and good with making precise holes in your ea series stuff. That is the nutshell version. There is a thread on the usrm also with info. Search "five lug swap" and a thread I started awhile back should pop up in the result. I would link it but I'm on a silly iPhone. Hope this adds clarification. Spencer

I don't wanna sound like I'm bein negative at all here, it would be very beneficial for you to search this forum. There is plenty of info on here as to what's required when changing the lug pattern on your car, regardless if you're goin to 5 or 6 lug....