obk25xt

Got 'er on the road. Swapped in a 152,000 mile engine. Super comfy car! Drives nice, will be replacing the front rotors and maybe a ball joint or 2. Other than that seems to be totally solid! Tranny works great, drives straight, struts feel good. The only issues I see are..... Passenger side rear window doesn't work from either switch, and one of the gauge cluster bulbs needs replaced. Other than that this car is awesome!

Hi, were in similar situations. I'm getting set up to do all of the above as well. I have a 220 Hobart mig machine, 20" drill press, porta band, harbor frieght notcher ($60ish and I'm satisfied with it FYI), just bought a Hobart 700i plasma machine, and I have plenty other tools to work metal in my shop. I also am looking into benders. Looking to spend about $1200ish on the tool alone before the dies. Have you checked out van sant enterprises? Google "trick tools" and it'll come up. They have no markup on the jd2 stuff vs the actual manufacturer. I called and spoke with a rep, he was super helpful. He told me they don't have any markup based on the volume they deal with. Another thing to consider would be the dies. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with a die for 1.5" sch 40 pipe (not tube), based on price of material. I'll probly also buy a small die (3/4" or 1" or something?) for roofracks, lightguards, garden stuff etc. I will also buy a die or 2 for square material. Not looking forward to dropping the coin on the selection of dies either, but I guess you gotta pay to play right? I'm deciding between the jd2 model 4, and the jmr 1005 (I think!?). The jmr is a couple jundred more but suppose to be a little nicer fit and finish. Dies are comparibly priced. Both are air/hydraulic powered. Maybe some of this will help you maybe not I dunno!? If you haven't checked out vansant trick tools yet do that! Also share what your research comes up with cause I too would like to pull the trigger on buying a bender but am slightly hesitant based on my limited experience. Also there is the tube shark, more expensive all around, my cousin has one and it's very nice! But I will end up with a machine that does the exact same work for much less $$$$. That's what I know bout it, Spencer

Or *if* it'll be available. If the one youre referring to is the one in my blue wagon it's getting pulled very soon. To be put into an 88 3 door with no compression on one side. My buddy has learned the hard way what I meant by "dude you gotta check the oil and water every time you put gas in it until you learn bout the consumption!" Now he understands. Viva la franken....

I get the tire size thing now! Thanks for clearin that up . You're probably only looking at minor trimming and thumping, mostly in the front of each of the fenderwells. look closely at the front of mine and you'll see how they are folded up. Also, if you don't do enough the first time you can always do a little more later. It's better to start off easy on the cuting and take a little more as you think its needed.

Your gonna run different sized tires?!?! WHY??? Yes, you will have to do something to the fenders.

See the pic!? Really good still, looks like maybe 100k to me. The guy was either a featherweight, or the thing had covers or something.

My crossmembers are all @ 6", and total lift is about 7" in front and 8" in rear. I have no issues with (the brake lines) rubbing anywhere. Also, in the rear the excess is ziptied to the trailing arms and in the front I've got them ziptied to either the struts or part of the unibody I think??? Can't really remember! Regardless, they are long enough for full travel, either direction, at lock to lock steering either way, and are not in danger of getting hung up in anything. I ziptied them in places to lessen the chance of them getting snagged on anything offroad.. Also, if I were to do it all again, I would only lengthen them as much as I'm lifted. IE 5" lift 5" extension etc. I thought I was going to get more travel or something so I had them made a few inches longer.... Not necessary.....

Don't let those pesky brake lines get the better of ya! It's worth it to just do it right the first time. Your brake system is not one you want to cut corners on (read.....SAFETY!!!). On mine (also 6" lift) I removed one front and one rear line, took them to a shop that makes that kinda stuff, and had them make me a set. I think I added like 8" of length, coulda easily been enough if I just had them made up 6" longer. I think the cost was in the $50-$60 range and definitely way worth it. Also it gave me the opportunity to completely bleed the entire brake system, which couldn't have hurt anything either.... Spencer

WOW!! That is some time.... It's a 2000 model. I was told the guy was some kinda suit for Grocery Outlet and pretty much just drove from store to store.... Musta been nonstop!

Nope, it was on portland (OR) CL. The records are all from the Tigard area if I recall. I can only imagine the amount of seat time to rack those miles up! I'm still astounded. I've been legally driving for something like 13-14 years now and am not sure I've even driven that many miles! And I drive a lot... well I consider it to be a lot anyhow.

Thanks, but......

Here it is. After looking for a while for the right deal to come along, I found one and feel it was fair enough. 1983 long bed, unmolested, not abused, very straight, I'm the 3rd owner, 201,000 miles, 5 spd, 22r, 100% stock (besides NWOR front springs), runs like a top, been towed for a good portion of its life (allegedly), came with a canopy, and I like it! My plans are.... Clean it real good/repaint some things like the bumpers/grill and stuff. Eventually maybe paint the whole thing the same color, but shiny! Tri-Y Header/2.25 exhaust (gonna keep this one quiet, I'm tired of the droney roar...) 38 Outlaw weber (maybe, the thing runs so damn good I don't really wanna mess with it!?) 3" lift Different Wheels 32-34" tires Different mirrors Add powa steering Hi-steer (at some point) Maybe bob the bed, although the long bed is pretty nice! Just hauled some couches... With the tail gate closed! And I like motorcycles as well so we'll see.... Lemme know what you think! Input and knowledge is welcome and appreciated. Spencer

So, I just picked this thing up from craigslist. Has a rod knock. It has A LOT of miles on it and is in what I'm gonna call excellent condition (considering the mileage). Check it out..... Also, I will be selling this car in the near future. This is not the for sale thread, but FYI it will have..... An engine with 163,000 miles, New t-belt/idlers, H2O pump, and OEM HG's. All this work was done to the engine less than an oil change ago. I did the HG's. Previous owner of the donor engine had the belt/H2O pump done at a shop, with receipts if I can find them. The tires are nearly new. I am looking for foglights to replace the broken ones in this car. Possibly a new windshield.... Maybe. Lemme know via PM if you may be interested. Spencer

Would the routing possibly be the way it is (incorrect) because the car is lifted?? I ask because I'll be most likely helping with the new cable install. I think the engine crossmember is spaced 3".

Yeah.... Earlier ones (waffle grill) mount to the buckets and a vertical support in the center of the grill with screws.... Like GD says. Later ones (loyale style) mount with pins that drop into holes on the trim between the bumper and the grill/headlights, and quick rivets into holes in tabs on the radiator support. Spencer

Were you turning it the correct direction? (I'm almost embarrased to ask that!)

Put the handle end of the punch in the vise and beat down on the cup with your bfh!?

This is not "all you have to do" to install said frankenmotor into said forester. They will bolt on, yes. To successfully run the frankenmotor setup you will have to be using the engine management system that goes along with the heads to begin with. I do not need to go into depth here about it. Do some homework and a reasonable amount of research will net you more info than you will need. The post above by rugby boy is less than a half truth, I do not claim to know everything, but do know there is more to it than slapping different heads on you car that do not interface with the rest of the intake/exhaust/management system..... Welcome to the forum!!!! Spencer

Looks like an XT shifter to me bub!

Please utilize the search function... Please... Not trying to sound like an rump roast but realize you are brand new to the forum (hell I'm still new to the forum and have been here almost a couple years) and definitely are not the first person with a desire to accomplish such a task. Good luck, Spencer

Welcome to the forum! Buy my Outback XT! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120052 Have fun lots of good info here. Spencer

huh, weird, ok, good luck then.........

I'm sure he does not have HID's. I also bought an OBXT (2008 model) new off the lot. It does not have HID's. Projector headlights YES! HID's, NO. Hence the search repeatedly resulting in halogens. Spencer

No actually I cannot! Sorry. I Swapped that ea82 engine out over a year ago in favor of the infamous ej22 . I can say this though, the throttle cable bracket will have to be custom modified to use this adapter. What I did was.... I used the cable bracket off a SPFI intake manifold. I had to turn it 180 degrees and put a bend or 2 in it. The reason is, the transdapt adapter raises the weber carb 2-3" I'm doin my best at remembering here! You will have to put your thinking cap on when it comes to hooking up the linkage but hey, it's not rock science!Hope this helps. Spencer

It will work. I have used this exact one. Worked great! May want to look into a lower profile filter if your car is not lifted. the tall filter will work, but will likely rub the hood slightly.