obk25xt

Ummm holy flippin' wow! Sweeeeeet find that's cool. If it were mine I'd swap it to 4wd or awd (maybe), and just drive it till a problem presents itself. Fix it and keep on truckin! I'm sure the ea82t h8rs will pipe up and the gurus will too. half will say swap it, the other half will say replace ALLLLLLL the hoses and run it. Welcome and enjoy!

My advice on this is to..... Jack the car up and put it on jackstands. Make sure it's good and sturdy! (all for corners) Roll around under there with a light, tape measure, pen/pad, and your best thinking cap! It may be necessary to pull a tire off the front, rear, or both to see what may need to be done at the struts/shocks. Keep in mind depending on your goals it may be necessary to build linkages/extensions for your shifter and steering. Lift building is NOT rock science (or rocket science either ). Really if a person has some common sense, and a little mechanical inclination coupled with minor fabrication abilities, a lift for a subie can be built. Where there's a wheel there's way! Spencer

LSD=Limited slip differential search for it and you will learn more than you wish you could know about them

"I hope you trust that low range!" Dude that thing is wayyyy more capable then I think your friends even know. Welcome to the forum! Have fun with the Brat!

Thanks! 6" @ the crossmembers As far as handling goes, it handles like a monster truck! The lack of swaybars and added weight of the bumpers/subframe etc. combined with the increased powah of the ej make it go like grave digger.

I have been running extended rods on my lifted wagon for over a year. Definitely help with tire clearance at the rear of the front fender. Mine are sleeved/extended 1.25" on a 6" lifted car rolling 29" tires for the record..

YES! 100% plug and play, providing your gear ratios are the same.

I'm all for it and think its cool. My only question is this (not to be taken as criticism please). Why are you going to disassemble a perfectly good custom subie wheeler to build this thing? Why not just go out and buy a legacy in disrepair somewhere for super cheap and just build that one and leave this one as it is? I only ask because it appears the only thing you are using from the waterwagon is the body and the engine. For $12,000 you could probably afford another decent shell. Again, not being critical, just an honest question.

Man I love the search function...... (I have this same trans # and was having a tough time IDing the FD ratio)

I will PM you what I've come up with as far as pricing. Once you have 10 posts you can enable PM's in your User CP.

So, I received the mini and its a blast! Also, I'm not a hardcore RC guy so it is fun. I'm already dumping Cash into it though. I HAD to have.... New chassis, shocks, metal lockers, 4 link, 1/10 servo and some other junk too. Now I can build it yay. I been snoopin around rccrawler forum and learning what to do to make it a little badboy. So far it is fun, I just happen to have a couple rockpiles at home that I made several years ago in my attempt to accomplish some hillbilly landscaping hehe...

I know I know... Bought them from the el-cheapo parts house, BUT! Had them order not their el-cheapo-est quality stuff. I think I ordered fel-pro if I remember correctly. My point is I didn't pay the $14-18 each price that the dealer wanted for them. Mostly because they are solely sealing air. On manifolds that seal both air/coolant such as the EA8# series, I DO use dealer gaskets. Just had to put that out there in my (EGO's) defense..

I just did this on a 2000 model and I think I was right around the $200 mark. I did HG's from the dealer and intake/exhaust from the el-cheapo parts house. I also bought a haynes manual, case of oil, roll of shop rags, filter, and some other crap/consumables. My vote is more like $200 and not $500 if you're looking at just the HG job.

^^^ very good post. I may be one of the "new guys" and have done much searching before attempting anything "new". This post pretty much sums it up. No point in reinventing the wheel. Carry spares. Like it or lump it. Ha. In all seriousness though. I have what I consider to be a very well built subie wheeler. I built it myself (with help of course) and know its capabilities as well. While I *might-maybe* be able to sell it for what I've got into it, I couldn't sell it for enough to build another one (if that makes any sense). That said, I WOULD sell it or trade it for the right straight axle toyota. Most of the guys I would go offroading with have them and while I can mostly keep up, they are two totally different animals and at this point I think I would rather have a toy. Preferrably extended cab if you've got one haha... Un-locker related ramble over.....and out

I'm running 205-55-16 Bridgestone Potenzas currently, also the car is low for sure, not sure exactly how much. Hoping to run 17's after these tires are done, I bought a set of 2008 Outback alloys and am thinking about a gold/bronze color and 40 series tires.

IAC valve!? That was the issue on mine when I first fired it off..... Had the same symptoms....

EFFIN SWEET!:cool: It's close enough that I can probably bring the whole fleet!

"travel" is likely not any more than stock, because articulation is limited by the amount of travel the axles can provide. For the lift it is as follows..... Crossmembers-6" Strut extensions- ~6.5"ish RX springs in front add some, I'm guessing 1.5"ish Honda accord front springs in rear add some also, guessing 1.5"-2"ish Sooooo, I "think" my car is lifted in the 7"-8" range, but, I call it a 6" lift because thats what we built the blocks at, and I have no exact way to verify the amount of lift as of now. One day when it's a high priority I'll figure it out. Also, theoretically (uh-oh big words) speaking the suspension geometry should be right at about 2" over stock, example: stock loyale with 2" strut lift. Hope this helps, Spencer

I bought a Losi Mini Crawler used off EBAY... Supposedly it's barely been used (less than a month), we'll see. Paid $170 total shipped and it's RTR, I'm looking forward to seeing it on the porch one afternoon. Not 100% sure what to mod first but I think it's going to be COG and a better battery. Maybe get the long wheelbase chassis plates and high clearance lower arms. I love shiny aluminum stuff, but this thing is supposed to be about function right? So most likely I'll upgrade as things break. I'll get some photos up someday.

Do it! If you plan on keeping the Loyale for a length of time. With the $$ you'll spend on the adapter/flywheel/clutch stuff you could probably (maybe?) afford to install an EJ trans as an alternative. The hurdles for the tranny swap along with the engine would be the trans crossmember and driveline, and also most likely changing the ring & pinion in the rear diff to match the trans as well. Truth is I'm not 100% of the difference in cost, it's really all relative to how much you have to pay for the parts, and how much of the work you can/will do yourself.As far as will the EA transmission hold up to the added power/torque? This is mostly going to be directly related to your power transferring abilities (clutch operation!) and driving style (Steve McQueen or Forrest Gump!) Swapping of the knuckles/suspension is not going to be necessary to swap the transmission. If you were to go the route of the 5 lug then you would be in need of the key to the 5 lug swap, which is the XT6 rear hubs.

+1 on that! I almost think my car is too fast sometimes. I use my GPS as my speedometer and I think I can do somewhere in the 70mph range in 3rd gear gettin on it. I rarely put it into 5th it seems to be unnecessary.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans+Dapt/969/2107/10002/-1 Or search Trans Dapt 969-2107 I used one of these on an ea82. It is a nicer quality adapter than the one that comes in the redline kit. It is somewhat tall and with the tall K&N filter it would rub the hood on the car, with a low profile filter this would be solved (after I lifted the car this was a non-issue). I do not know if the Hitachi pattern is the same between the ea82 Hitachi and the one on your brat, maybe someone can chime in and confirm/deny this. Also, there is no throttle linkage included here, I modified a Loyale bracket to do the job. Finally, this adapter is made for a Datsun, not a Subaru. I did have to massage the bolt holes ever so slightly to get it to fit properly, but it was easily accomplished and successfully installed with no problems. I also believe the design of this adapter better blocks off the little water passage that is below the hitachi (again, on the ea82's, I'm not super familiar with that ea81 setup). Hope this helps someone!

Today, installed on a 1988 4wd coupe...... Rear GL10 control arms Rear wagon swaybar Rear discs Rear wagon struts/springs (lifted the back about an inch and stiffened things up some) 2.5"x18" glasspack Les Schwab 13" wheels painted black with nice toyo's The car sounds, looks, and handles like a whole new car! I've owned this car twice now and after doing this stuff for a close friend of mine I want it back again!

I've acquired most of my spares from cars I've parted out/bumped in the head. If not that, they are plentiful in the junkyards out here. Truth is, I have yet to break a rear (knocks on woods), but usually carry one on the trail anyhow.

Will you please measure a few things for me? (on a level surface, with stock size tires) 1. From the ground vertically through the center line of the wheel to the fender arch. Front and rear please. 2. From the center of the hub/axle vertically to the fender arch. Again, front and rear. I'm trying to figure out just how much lift My car has with the current springs on it and I don't have a stock one to compare it to! I know all my lift dimensions but am going to mathematically figure out how much lift I have over the stock geometry. If you could take these measurements for me please so I have some numbers to reference as a baseline I would appreciate it. Ideal situation would be a Loyale 4wd running 175/70 or 185/70/13 tires that is 100% stock in reasonably unloaded condition (not hauling bricks home from Lowe's or something!). Maybe even have a few folks measure and report back to have some close to repeatable numbers, that would be ideal. Thanks in advance, Spencer