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And they cost about the same or less than AT's With the car you're building, whats the concern with on road manners?! Your not planning on running a swaybar are you? My car handles like a monster truck...

1990 Loyale manual locks,windows,mirrors, no AC, no tilt wheel (perfect for a wheeler, less to go wrong!) 6" homebuilt lift subframed (with carrier bearing mounted to it) homebuilt bumpers (with engine guards and fuel tank sliders too, connected to subframe F/R) sleeved extended radius rods boxed/gusseted control arms welded diff rear disc brakes WRX buckets CD/CB/PA/KC's ej22 exhaust routed OVER driveline and rear X-member D/R tranny 29" swampers New for 2011: homebuilt roofrack with shovel/jack/spare mounts RX front springs (cut) Accord (front) springs in the rear The springs added roughly another 2"-3" inches of lift

COUNT IT!! That car is looking way cool... Nice work!

The handle of the shovel is held with a bungee. The paint job is a super cheap rattle can jobber with no prep work at all. I used 2 cans. The paint was running like Forrest Gump but I don't really care, the car is a trail machine so aesthetics aren't exactly my top priority. Not to mention it was way to cold to be painting anything. My bumpers need redone anyhow, I figure if I get ambitious this summer I'll take everything off and paint them correctly. Sending you a PM.

Mine's 3/4" and 1", the 1" is the top rail and everything else is 3/4" Mine's all mounted on the inside of the rack, I was gonna mount it on the outside too but I figured it would just snag up branches and crap on the trail. I was amazed at how light and sturdy it turned out! The conduit alone is somewhat flimsy but start welding here and there and it gains rigidity pretty quick. For reference I think mine is 4'ish x 5'ish x 8" Get one of these, it's how I notched all my pieces..... http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-tubing-notcher-42324.html I painted my fasteners red for that time I drop it in the mud, when it's raining, in the dark, just in case.... So here is the finished (I think) product...... Shovel mount Hi-lift mount Spare tire mount The full monty!

Look somethin' like this?! I finished my rack and changed out all 4 springs today so the car looks a little different then it did the other day when you were over. Sits more than an inch taller and looks even taller yet with the monster basket up there.....

Today I fabbed the mounts up. Next is custom shovel mount, hi-lift mount, and spare tire mount. Probably make a few spots to hook bungees too. Still torn on whether or not to mount some lights up there, truth is I don't really want to run the wiring. If anyone is interested in having one of these built I'm thinking I could build a few more and sell them (reasonably priced). Also they can be proportioned differently LxWxH. This is a closer shot of how I made the gutter mounts, I made them fit a little tighter after the pictures were taken, you get the idea I'm sure.

I think this is going to be one of my new addictions! I've been youtubing for a couple days and ebaying too until I find the right deal. I think I'm gonna go with a Losi mini for me and a micro for the kid (me too) . It looks like fun, and I think I'll be better off with the smaller scale crawler because of the area it takes to play. Any feedback?

I've noticed the same thing on the rear of my lifted wagon. I really don't think it's strut related, but rather spring related. Also I'm not 100% sure why. What my intentions to do in order to solve it is just find the right springs to do the job (in the J/Y, anyone could just go have some made up but what's the fun in that?!). I've tried the Honda Accord front spring thing but that was way to stiff IMO, there was zero travel/articulation with them. I've looked and bought several other sets of springs and tested them unsuccessfully. Just gotta find the right ones. FYI rear (early 80's) Audi 4000 (fwd sedan) springs are a no go (too soft). I haven't really tried many others yet. Ones that *look* like they are gonna be worth a shot are the rears of an Accord wagon, they also are progressive if I remember correctly. Next time I see a set and am in a position to scoop em' up I will give them a go. Good luck on solving the problem on the rear of your wagon. Report back with any new info. Spencer

I love learning new things! Thank you for explaining that it made a perfect picture in my head and now I understand waaaaaay better.. Hooray for physics!!!

I may be selling a set of 03 WRX wagon seats soon, fronts and rears. They're very bolstered and I think they're a direct bolt in for your car, rears may not be but I'm not sure. They are dark blue. In great shape. Lemme know if you have any interest....

Keep your finger outta there!!!

HA! "The official upgraded armrest thread!" Here's mine too, we should have a door panel meet sometime...

Nice looking car! Great job. :cool:

Spillmaster Euro Junior, FTW! 2nd to none!!! Mine's secured with a screw. They also come with velcro too, which can be used up by the clock on the dash, although the slope of the windshield limits the height of the drink you can put into it. May not work in this exact location with a d/r shifter but will work somewhere...

I'm under the impression that the "boxer rumble" comes from the unequal length y-pipe. so that may be why your car sounds the way it does. Also the way you describe the sound when it decelerating... the "whooooombaaaa" as you put it... Is just a characteristic of the glasspack. I've put them on 3-5 subies and they do that. Couple things I've noticed that helps with that raspyness is: A) moving the cherry bomb forward in the system so there is *some* tailpipe behind the muffler. Using a larger OR longer cherry bomb (I prefer larger!). Example, on 3 ea82 powered loyales I've installed 2.5"x18" glasspacks and they are deep and rumbly. On my ej22 powered lifted wagon I've run 3 setups so far. 1st one was a 2"x18"glasspack-result slightly higher pitch and definitely raspier than I liked. 2nd was a 2" knockoff flowmaster-result was slightly more rumbly abd queter, still a little raspy and almost too quiet for my taste in a mud slinger.... 3rd (current) is another 2.5"x18" glassback pretty loud, deeper and rumblier, *some* rasp on deceleration and minor popping too. Next time I redo the exhaust on the lifted car I think I'm gona use a 3" cherry bomb! May sound deeper!? I'm guessin it will! Another thing to note is that on ALL of these systems I've mentioned/done, everything up to the rear diff has been 2" other than cutting out the 2nd cat on one ea82 and the ej swapped car. I think a key in the whole deal is to have 1ft+ behind whatever muffler you decide to use. GO BIG OR GO HOME!

Is your header/manifold/y-pipe (whatever you wanna call it) equal or unequal length? (runners from each head to the collector)

Yes, yes it is. Good eye! Kinda sucks to weld, I clean off the galv where I weld but still get into it sometimes. I will spray some cold galv over the welds before I paint....

Hooray for thread revival! Here is a rack I just made the other day, hopeful to make a few more for profit if anyone is interested! Fairly light, and tough, still gotta fab up a way to secure the spare tire, hi-lift, and shovel. I may or may not make light tabs, not sure yet.

Pretty good reason not to go wheelin by yourself. I'd say you were real lucky. Could've been worse.

I had a similar issue one time. Broke a front axle in my lifted car, was running an open rear diff. Went from supercar for the conditions to almost completely worthless... Open diff/rwd/slick conditions FTL.....

Last time I checked, suspension mods don't effect emissions....

You can put bigger/deeper speakers in if you cut out the factory grilles on the doors and mount to the outside of the panels. I used the factory common ground system with an adapter plug. This is the first time I've EVER used on of those. It sounds good.... Unless I mess with the fader, or balance (can't remember which one off hand). Then it'll start to distort somewhat. I pretty much just didn't want to pull wires through the little rubber door grommets. Call me lazy but I'm totally satisfied with the way it turned out. Front doors are 6.5" components with the crossovers mounted in the map pocket. (pictured...) Rear doors are the same speakers except they are 2 ways instead of components. I used a 1/4" spacer to keep the depth usable in the rears.

I would just mask of the part of the car you don't want painted and spray away!

Added yet another cool thing to my car. I have owned/seen/been around a large amount of ea82 series vehicles and until just the other day at picknpull had NEVER seen one of these..... It's stamped with a fuji symbol so I assume it was something you could buy from the dealer back in the day? I dunno.... With out further ado, my "new" lower valance trim (can't quite call it an airdam:-\)....