obk25xt

No offense taken, I apologize if my reply sounded a little sideways. When you do get to it though, there are subtle differences in specifics between models, though they will bolt on. 4wd rear springs are longer than 2wd rear springs, the spring perches are higher on 2wd rear shocks than the 4wd ones. I just got done fine tuning the rear suspension on my wheeler after buying and disassembling/mismatching all sorts of shock spring combos. I ended up with 2wd shocks with 4wd springs. You may want to look into finding some front springs off an 87ish accord, mated to 4wd rear shocks, if you want a stiffer ride (I've never tried it on an xt! Just a suggestion). The accord springs were too stiff for offroad IMO but might be great onroad. As for fronts I don't have much experience to share. Happy hunting! Spencer

The reason I had him take material off was to make the flywheel step the same as the xt6. I was very clear when I explained to him what I wanted, was telling him all the numbers and such and he nodded and smiled like he understood. The price was right! Ten bucks! Just goes to show, you get what you pay for! Other than the measurement being off he did a wonderful job, everything is surfaced and even. Just not EXACTLY what I ordered. Oh well, live and learn, on the plus side now I have the ability to adjust pressure plate to flywheel distance based on the amount of shim I install. If there are any millwrights on the board they can appreciate this line of thinking.

aNother thing you could do to gain a little clearance behind the front tires is to cut/lengthen the radius rods. I did this on my car and it helps. Cut them right in the middle, sleeve them with appropriate pipe, and weld em up. You'll have to oblong one of the two holes on the control arm where the radius rod bolts to it, I think I did the frontmost one. Helps with approach angles, increases caster, clearance for tires. If I remember right I made mine like 1.25"-1.5" longer. Thanks, Spencer

Go to the nearest junk yard. Find almost ANY ea82 powered rig. Remove and purchase shocks/struts w/springs from all 4 corners. Go home and replace said items onto said xt. That would be the cheapest way. Spend a few extra bucks and buy new struts/shocks for whatever ea82 car you find springs from, and your car will handle very well. Thanks, Spencer

No it won't, no I don't. He took too much material from the surface the pressure plate mounts to. In essence all I'm doing is putting it back (the material). I'm going to try an install the shims one at a time thru the starter hole, that will lead to some swear words Im sure and possibly removal of the engine, we'll see. Thanks, Spencer

So, the "extra couple thousanths" he was gonna take off ended up being more like 30..... Now my step measures 0.785, I do not recommend doing this!! Everything works but my clutch cable is adjusted almost as tight as it will go and i can only push the pedal down halfway before resistance. I will cut some .030" shimstock into washer shapes and shim the pressure plate out to correct this problem. Car drives fine like this, but it bothers me the small amout of pedal I actually have and the amount of temsion that the pressure plate springs are under. I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to. On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer

So I just went ahead and ordered an xt6 clutch kit from rock auto, $193 for a rhinopac kit. Should be here in a few days. I also took my flywheel into a buddy who works at a tranny shop to have it surfaced and machined to xt6 specs, he may take another couple thousanths off it also we'll see when I go to pick it up. I'll post measurements when I get everything home, and results after I get it all together again. Also going to pick up a vlsd tomorrow woohoo! And another rear disc brake setup.

Now I've searched several parts manufacturer sites and am coming up with the same kit #'s for the xt6 and loyale/gl/gl10 etc. this is getting really confusing. So I'm figuring either the manufacturers I am looking up use the same kit for all applications or the difference is in the .012 of the step in the flywheel. I read in other posts some where that the clamping force is... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94121&highlight=xt6+flywheel+specs ea82-350kg ea82t-400kg xt6-500kg Can that be because of flywheel step difference? I am doing my best to come up with some proof that the xt6 actually uses a different pressure plate. So far all I'm finding is that the only difference is in the flywheel step. Anyone have any solid info on this?

Ok, so I searched again (I guess it could be called re-search!) and found tons of info. Thanks for the reply I try not to ask questions that have already been answered, sometimes I'm a little slow in finding the correct info. Thanks to all who have traveled this path before me to prove that it can be done! I'm thinking... Re-machine ea82 flywheel to xt6 specs, lighten a few lbs. and put an aftermarket ej disc in it. The xt6 pressure plate is what I'm having difficulty finding by itself. Is the difference in clamping force due to the difference in flywheel step? Or is it actually a different pp? Would a turbo pp compare more to an n/a ea82 one or an xt6 one? Does anyone have a part # of the different pressure plates ala carte? (not in a kit!). thanks, Spencer

I have a question, and I have used the search function! (love that thing!) I have an ej22/5mt d/r setup in my lifted wagon. I am going to replace the clutch as I feel like it's time, especially after the clutch smoke-show at sand lake! My question is this, can't I buy a performance clutch for say, a legacy or an impreza or basically anything that uses a 225mm (8 7/8"), 25 spline 1" shaft? I've been looking on ebay and finding some discs fairly reasonably priced that are 6/12 puck, dual friction, ceramic and organic material. I realize that some of these options may be a little overkill for the stock ej22 but I'm looking for a little more holding force than the stock ea82 disc/pp. I am going to have my flywheel resurfaced and the pp step taken down as well. Does anyone have experience with this? I would like to get some feedback and or suggestions from people who have experience with this. Thanks in advance, Spencer

I know this may be a longshot but.... Speedo cable hooked up? In mine it's not and it was resting on something behind the dash and making a slight clicking noise, couldn't be heard in first so much cause it wasn't spinnin so fast and by the time I got into third or above the road/engine noise nearly drowned it out. Unlikely but possibly your answer. Thanks, Spencer

In my opinion.... Best bet for a "reliable rally sleeper" is to yank the 1.8 and the selectable tranny and swap in an ej and awd tranny. But then your gonna wanna do a 5 lug swap too for brake, wheel, and strut options and probly gonna wanna find an LSD rear diff and possibly one for the tranny too. By the time you've got all that time/$ money into it you may well have just as easily bought yourself an impreza and done some mild mods! Not trying to discourage you at all. Personally I like the concept and it's been pioneered by others and documented well here on the website. Use the SEARCH function an sooooo many questions don't have to be asked. (that's my experience anyhow) thanks, Spencer

^^^^^Exactly what I did..... Easiest part of the install! ^^^^^

I have had this thought more than a few times bounce around in my head. I like the idea of using the rotary and its mated 5speed, hookin that up to a t-case, subframe etc. I think the mechanical and fab really wouldn't be all too difficult and the power to weight ratio is nice. Even the size of the rotary is appealing, I think it'd probly fit under the hood of a soob. With the amount of rpm spinnin through the gearbox/t-case I'm not sure how well a pair of r160s would hold up. Might as well straight axle it.... Then what's really left that's actually Subaru???? A fuel tank and radiator, maybe? I dunno don't get me wrong it seems like a cool thing to do but I'm kind of a purist I guess. Course I'm kinda biased toward Subaru too because I think a bug with any subie transplant is way cool but a subie with any other powerplant seems unfair to the car in my opinion. Guess Im a little weird! On another note about rotarys, I have a buddy whose runnin one in an old luv that he straight axled and is runnin Dana 44's ***/r Mazda 5 speed mated to an np205(I think?). Bottom line is this thing rips it up! It's been rolled like 5 times and jumped repeatedly something like 8-10 feet in the air. Sorry I'm gettin sidetracked. I was lookin under his hood and I noticed a huge sidedraft weber with velocity stacks and NO air filter whatsoever?! He told me he got sick of the thing boggin out when the filters got wet and the thing spins such high rpm that it sucks dirt/water thru the engine so fast that it rus better no filter. I was like "ok dude!" but the thing just keeps on goin an goin. One last little thing about the rotarys is the oil filter setup, most practical automotive engineering I've ever seen, easy to get to and not a drop spilled anywhere.ever. That's all, thanks for reading! Spencer

Rear hubs, discs, calipers, and backing plates off of any ea82 car that came with them will bolt right on. I know they came on most if not all GL10's and turbo xt's as well I think? I've been told that you also need to get the rear proportioning valve from the donor car but I don't really know if that's truth or tale, I didn't when I installed them on my loyale and everything seems to work just fine for my liking. Maybe someone can chime in here to cofirm and explain why, or deny the whole proportioning valve theory. Spencer

When I did my swap I put the ecu right where the stock ea82 one WAS. Meaning I removed it when I did the ej22 electrical changover. I haven't noticed any effect without it, and it makes for just enough room to put the new one in. As far as the rest of the wiring goes it's just kinda piggybacked in with the original one.

My $0.02 would be to go with something narrow. My experience is that they do better in the nw woodsy type wheelin. As far as cost goes, check out jc whitney, I just bought a set of four 29x8.5x15 ss tsl delivered to my porch for $371.00, that's the best price I could find anywhere. Schwabs wanted like 120 bucks a piece for them. Also, if you do get em from jcw they have promos and online coupons too so be thorough. I ordered mine with a 20% off online coupon. Good luck tire hunting! Ps, super swampers are made in the USA which I didn't know till I got em but it made me smile, I like buying domestic goods. Even though I don't own any domestic vehicles, even though my outback was assembled in Indiana. Anyhow.....

Ordered a set of super swampers!! 29x8.50x15 tsl bias ply, $371.00 delivered to my door brand new. Should be here between 2/12-2/17 I can't wait..... Did have to promise the girlfriend I wouldn't buy anything for 6 months.. Hope it's worth it! (6 months will probly end up bein like 6 weeks but I'll give an honest effort! Really I will )

you say that you bought the loyale for 100$ with either a blown hg or cracked somethin or another?? the horrible smoking could very well be from fluids that have collected in the y-pipe and cat.. how long have you run the swapped in engine? it may be worth your while before you scrap it or sell it off to either run the piss out of it for a couple weeks OR if you still have your donor car, swap the y-pipe off of it and see if the smokyness clears up. this is all provided you've successfully converted it back to spfi.

if you have the time/resources, the ej22 may be the way to go. you already have the watercooled aspect of the project handled, now all youd have to do would be the adaption, which i guess would include flywheel mods, and then i guess youd have to do the electrical, and f.i. pump (if its not already a spfi), its probably quite a project actually!? BUT! puttin an ej22 in there would nearly double the hp your running now and man would that be mean!!

That was me with the grey wagon! Pullin out the brat, and the hatch, and the white wagon.....Untill a big cloud of smoky clutch blew out from under the hood, thats when my towhook went away! Fun times but i think i'll stick to the sticks.. I like the trails and dirt better than sand.. Spencer

I had a good time last wekend and i'm down to go wheelin again but I'm not goin to sandlake unless I've got a bike or a quad or a rail or like a 350+hp somethinoranother that's made for the sand. I'm definatly more into woods action and hittin trails and stuff. My cousin and I ae planning on headin out this weekend, haven't really picked a spot yet but are thinkin Sunday. Ps I think this threAd belongs in the offroad section.

New muffler, check! Bumpers are soooo close to bein done I'm not sure if theyll be painted but the welding will be 100% (gotta look good, this is my usmb debut!). Gotta cheesy cb with a magnet antennae to stay connected. Just gotta mount my flag an I'm set. 1 more day! Sorry to those who can't make it I'm thinkin it's gonna be a blast.

got my front bumper bout done! its sweet im stoked! then rear bumper and (knock-off) flowmaster..... the straight cherry bomb sound is played out for me, sounds like a flippin jake brake when i'm goin down long hills, i'm sure my neighbors have had about enough of me rollin by at 1 am doin bout 50mph at about 5500rpms!!!

Thems some clean lookin hands buddy!