obk25xt

Just an update.... Car has NOT thrown another CEL since all these issues were sorted out..... Good to go......

Just an FYI (only if you don't ALREADY know), the 1995 has a unique pinout on the ECU and is NOT interchangeable w/ other OBD2 ECU's. I learned this in my swap project AFTER I had the harness prepped and installed. Not a HUGE deal, but it's good to know. There are some misleading pinout diagrams out there.... 1995 is unique..... Made for a PITA for me on some levels.... 1996-99 is all the same...... Be cautious where you get pinouts.... I'm not telling you how to do your build, just sharing my experience......

Been looking at these for a WHILE and really never thought I'd get my hands on one... I guess I'll start a thread, because I'm sure over time this thing WILL get meddled with haha.... I'm no noob to soobs OR building cars. Heres a link to my Loyale build thread for an idea of how I like 'em. FINALLY!! found the one I've been looking for. - Members Rides - Ultimate Subaru Message Board For starters. Its a 2004, 5mt, 129,000 miles, bought it at a dealership in Bellevue WA for $7000. They had it advertised for $8900, I called on it cuz I've been looking for one and have been more serious lately. The salesman took my info and I scheduled a time to go look at it. He called me shortly after, said it went thru their shop, and that they couldn't sell it because it didn't pass the mechanical inspection. He said it had a weak clutch, leaky turbo, and smelled like burning oil. I said I didn't care and was still interested. After a lil haggling we settled on the price and I drove it home a few days later. Turns out the car is already on stock WRX springs/struts and has an STI catback. I put a new Exedy clutch kit, an ACT streetlight FW (bought off a forum for $100 shipped), new front rotors, a full Gates timing kit, new NGK spark plugs, an OEM 06 STI up-pipe, a de-catted 3" SS down pipe (CL score for $25!), and replaced the pass side valve cover seal (the "leaky turbo" haha). I also put 06 STI springs on the front struts which brought the front down a lil more to cure the saggy-butt and give it the rake I like. Throwing a dart I think I'm into it a total of around $8400 which includes tax/license and all the parts I bought, I installed them myself cuz I'm good like that..... I intend to address the handling more than anything else, remove x-member spacers, RSB, lateral links, strut tower bars and possibly STI control arms. I'd like to put a VF series turbo, injectors, and a larger top mount too at some point, but for a while it will just be the exhaust and a tune. Heres a pic

I am wrkn and my car BROKE.... 4 years member.... Yet to Make it to the show.... And its only 25 miles away this year.... STOOPID....

Your coolant lines are reversed..... Shouldn't matter much, but they are.....

Hook it up to the intake manifold runner! IF, you have everything hooked up properly to the EA system, it should work just fine. The canister in the the lil cubby near the pass side strut tower has a 1-way check valve in it, if you have the in/out hooked up backwards, you won't be getting the vacuum to the HVAC controls properly..... Spencer

UPDATES?!??

Sounds like you sorted the throttle cable issue, BUT, for other readers... I have used the EA throttle cable in 2 separate swaps without any issues. on the lifted car it went with out any thinking because of the drivetrain drop. In my blue car, i routed the cable under the intake manifold and back up to the throttle body and it fit just fine. There isn't a ton of slack, but there is adjustment and enough free-play to not cause any binding or other issues..... Edit: Both of these swaps are in loyale wagons, although I don't believe the XT's were unique in any respect to the throttle cable....

This is about the best neutral advice that can be given on this topic.....

Nah, I put new tires on it and painted the wheels a darker charcoal color.... Jus been driving it.... A LOT.... Gonna try an get the FM in it before the WCSS but we'll see, also I think I need to replace the header gasket on one side or the other, she sounds like we gotta lil leak somewhere under there... Passed DEQ with no problems, that's the sniffer test, with NO catalytic converter at all... I was pretty surprised TBH...

# 133

Now with sliders too...... ;-)

Picked up some 35's..... Love these BFG's... They are LONG wearing tires and do awesome on the trail....

Also... I looked at mine yesterday.... The hanger does hang down about 3" or so, but it is still significantly higher than the driveline. If your draggin hangers your ridin d-line too.... Jus sayin....

They do hang down some if you mount the hanger to the frame, theres always the option of frenching the hanger into the frame, keeps the truck lower too, while still giving AWESOME flex. I had skyjacker springs on the front of my 84. They were pretty stiff, but that is also pretty common on most leaf sprung rigs anyway.

x2 Also.... You should.... Best bang for the buck hands down IMO..... BTW the runner looks good....

Put solid "bombproof" engine mounts in this the other day..... ThEeEeEyYyYy ArE vErYyYyYy ViBrAtOrRrRrEeEeEe..... I think they are gonna come out...... Or maybe I will just run one solid and one OEM and see how that goes..... Lovin this truck though.......

Secrets SUCK!!! Tell more......

Nice work. This is flippin badarse.

COILOVER SLEEVE KIT... Google it..... eBay it..... It will get you going..... Results will vary depending on attention to detail, mechanical inclination, and general "vision" of what you're hoping to accomplish.....

The ones on my wagon are Skunk2, they came off a 90-something Civic hatch in the P&P yard...... Jus gotta roll your sleeves up and get in there...... My advice, is to buy the CHEAPEST ebay 2.5" coilover sleeve kit you can get your hands on and start wrenching.... One of 2 things will happen, you'll either get it or you won't! And if you don't, you can always come back here and ask questions, here @ the USMB we applaud "do it yourselfers" and are more willing to help when we see you're mid project and need a hand..... :-) That was definitely meant to be smart assed, but really in a positive and endearing way.... Get in there and do it!!!!!

Nope! All has been going well, went 5 days without any codes, then it threw a P0505 yesterday (IAC malfunction). I was really rodding on it though, like really mashing hard in the 5500-6500 RPM range and holding it there for a lil bit. I dunno if that may have something to do with it. I cleared the code and it hasn't reappeared yet so we'll see. Maybe it was just a phantom thing.....

Well, so far so good. This is the longest I've gone without the CEL since the swap. I think WE have handled this one fellas.... THANK YOU for your guidance. Spencer

Relay installed..... Fingers crossed.... Should be 100% at this point folks, I'll report back.....

I am now reading/learning about relays. You're saying the control circuit needs to be hooked to power (+) on one side, and the other side to the ECU signal? The little but of reading I'm doing suggests that I'd hook one side of the control circuit to ground (-) and the other side to the signal (ECU). Is the ECU signal sent by completing a ground? I am going to wire in a relay tomorrow. I'd sure like to do it right the first time. I'm most likely going to wire the fan up to be controlled by the ECU, but if I don't, would it be necessary to route constant 12v to the power in side of the relay? Or will the ECU be satisfied if just the control side of the relay is hooked up? I guess what I'm asking is can I do this with a simple 2 wire job?