obk25xt

Honestly I would go for 4". Just my opinion, but hey, you did ask! I think the 6" looks a lil un-proportionate. $0.02 Spencer Edit: I dunno, looking again, it's not WAY out of proportion. Tough call. It'll look better after you radius the corners etc. I'd still probly wanna do one in 4".

nothing... haven't even seen it.... :'-(

Finally.... Got er lifted!!!! These are 33's, I'm def gonna go with 35's on the 16" wheels, got plenty of room for them...... PICS.....

Tsudo header w/ catless midpipe for $230 shipped..... Got mine from RS25 in the vendor forum I believe.... Nice quality too..... Edit: price went up to $249, but they have a coupon code up for $50 bucks off.... Here's a link to the vendors thread.... http://www.rs25.com/forums/f14/t170752-tsudo-uel-header-catted-catless-stock-now.html

I've been pushing $$ across the table..... And being patient.... I know it's in the garage and that means it's that much closer to being on the road. I'm hopeful to be able to get a lil dry weather drive time, but we'll see... Trust me, no one wants to see this done more than I do. I haven't driven a Subaru in over a year..... Almost makes me a lil sick.....

Fair'nuff..... Carry on....

The 3 door has different doors than the wagon... the plastic shield will not likely fit your wagon doors. The wagon doors are shorter by several inches...

:cool: I want.......

Ya, its part #15... Its not catastrophic to run without. Like GD says, it cannot just slip out on its own, unless you disassemble the suspension to allow for that much movement.

I have a coupe tail light. Which side you need?! I think I have a passenger side.

I'm in.

Is there any advantage to going this way? Or is it just to use the WRX diff? I could see that possibly it would be a smoother transfer of power only because of less surface to surface interface..... Please explain/enlighten me..... Spencer

Hey this may or may not be covered already, but, ummmm, are dogs welcome??

If my blu car is ready and I can make it I'm gonna bring some XT6 rear hubs/backing plates, and some 4.44 R&P's, and maybe some Delta 1000's for a single cam EJ25.........

No didn't have any "real" fitment issues other than clearance around the oil filter. I ended up getting one for a 2003 wrx if I remember right and it is a smaller diameter and has clearance around the primary tubes.

Here's some pics.... FINALLY, got a new computer so I can do the pic thing again..... This is where the air goes in..... And this is where it comes out again..... Haha Back on the tow dolly again! This time for waaayyyyyy better reasons :cool:.....

Ok. The car is now in Rick's possession. Which means one thing. When it's done, it will be right. I'm hopeful the next time I see the car I will be getting into it and driving it home. I will update here with butt dyno results when they are available.

Ya the kit is here! I'm really just waiting to take care of a couple financial obligations before I install it. Kind of a reward for doing the right thing sort of deal. Really, there's no reason I can't install it. But I'll feel better about it of I handle this small business first. It'll happen soon though!!!!!

Umm ok...... All that's left now is exhaust from the midpipe back, install an alternator, and merge the harnesses (which will be done by general disorder). This thing has fluids in it folks, it's *that* close!!!!! If I knew how to upload pics off this silly iPhone I'd get some on here so there'd be some eye candy too.

Went and got the lower hose for a 98 outback. Fits like a glove. Thanks for the info numbchux, much appreciated!

Cool, I'll go exchange it tomorrow and see if the earlier one fits better. I had 1.5" inlet outlet brazed onto an early style rad that was originally the upswept style you mentioned. Now they are both straight out. Thanks for the info I appreciate it.

What year?! I already have the upper one figured out. No problem there. I went and picked one up for a 2003 outback today and it doesn't work with my setup.

Shift linkage done. PS system done. Need an alternator and to install heater core hoses, lower radiator hose, thermostat, some exhaust work, harness, and DRIVE THIS MOTHER BEAR!!!!!!

Most of the EJ radiators a single row anyhow. The way I look at it, a single row EA radiator, even necked down, will likely be sufficient. Start getting into turbos and the story may change. But even hi comp/cammed EJ's should be good. Really it's more about the ability to remove the heat from the radiator than it is the capacity and or flow. These are both important, yes, but a GOOD electric fan is more important IMO (stress the IMO!).

My lift will be here on the 19th! And I also bought some used rear OME 860's off Craig's for $100, so I'll have some different rear options. The kit I ordered comes with 850's, which I'm told are 2" heavies, and I believe the 860's are 3" mediums? I dunno. Regardless, the Cruiser is coming along nicely and I'm diggin it!! My buddy dubbed it "The Storm Trooper" so I'm having some vinyls made for it too, I really like this rig.....