Kostamojen

OEM part number of my hub bolt is 623603001 That supersedes to 623603002 Which there are 2000+ in stock around the country, which means it supersedes to another car... Now its time to figure out which one

Are these the studs? They appear to be rather inexpensive too. I'll have to ring up the sister dealership (Nissan) and see if they are a dealer-offered part I can get an employee discount on That is if they work or not... Here is a photo of the original hub:

The stud removed or on the hub? I don't have them with me, they are at the painter with the rest of the car, so I can't get them off the hub (which is another concern I have) I read something about Nissan studs. I need to check the part numbers of the studs to see if they are simular to the other part numbers.

I need longer front studs soon. Anyone got any leads?

I'd start with two splines and see how that works. When my car is almost finished i'm going to try out height adjustments so I know what the weight is with the car, but until them i'm keeping it sitting higher so its easier to work on (note: The ff-1 rear is actually quite similar to the gen 1's). As for the shocks, I have the info for them. 14.635" max length, 11.445" minimum length, 3.189" stroke. The best thing to do is go through the Tokico/Monroe/KYB cross reference lists and find a shock with similar ratings but say 1" lower (it took me many hours of printing out pages and cross referencing online to figure out what model cars had the size/connection points of shocks I could use). I'd say use the ones I have, but they are significantly shorter than that.

You can go lower, just need to do some creative fender rolling/cutting Carbon wrap sideskirts!?!!! Oh and that 360 parts truck... I SOOOO need one for work its not even funny (I work at a Subaru dealer parts department, and our warehouse with all the big parts is next door, and I never have a truck to bring anything over!)

Supposedly you can fit Impreza/Legacy hubs on there, which would be worth it IMO, but you need Impreza style front coilovers and some changes to the front linkage. Thats what I would do.

It didn't sell in terms of the auction (reserve not met) and I don't know if he sold it to that bidder either.

I saw this FF-1 wagon on ebay the other day, went and took a look at it today: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-Subaru-FF-1-Wagon-/330446584696?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4cf026bb78 Here are the photos: http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Kostamojen/FF-1%20Wagon%20El%20Sobrante/ (Those are just a couple pics, I have 24 in the album) The good: Its an EA62! (1.3l) Engine runs rather well, little valve noise but runs very smooth. It can be driven no problemo. It doesn't have any major rust holes that I saw, nothing at all like my car. The whole chassis doesn't need to be striped down to be repainted. The bad: Lots of dents and dings (mostly fixable) and rust spots around. Paint is no good, looks like the front of the car was repainted a long time ago (20 years?) Driver side fender needs work, front valence is missing. Brakes are leaking, its probably the wheel cylinders in the rear causing it, they are getting replaced soon. Rear glass is totally busted, exhaust is totally gone. Interior is in poor shape minus some of the carpet. All of the rubber mouldings are totally shot, worse than my car. Final Verdict: This is a project car for someone willing to put some time into it. It needs minor dent removal most everywhere, plus major work to the fender and hood, and it needs paint and rust removal to keep it from spreading. The drivetrain is solid and the brakes have plenty of life left once they are fixed, so it can be driven as it is minus the bodywork and moldings which will fail to keep any water out from what I saw. I'm not interested in it, since I can't afford and don't really want this level of project car. If it had less damage and less bad paint with rust peeping through and moldings that were intact, I would be interested in it since it ran so well and is an EA62 drivetrain. But this one needs some love and effort... BUT it is worth saving. This is not a junker by any means!

Someone stole my car!!! So I chased it for over 40 miles... And found it parked next to some shady looking vehicles... But wait, whats this!? A PAINT SHOP!!!

Motor mounts are totally different on the FF-1. The clutch difference isn't a huge problem, if I use the thinner bellhousing I use the thinner flywheel, if I use the thicker one I use the thicker flywheel. I have both, so no problem there. Although I still have to have the spline swapped from the EA81 clutch to the smaller EA63 clutch...

Good news and Bad news... Good news: I'm scheduled to have the car painted in a week or two Bad news: I've been test fitting the engine/transmission before its painted to see what I might need to modify, mainly looking to install some sort of pitch rod. Well the pitch rod turns out already has a hole, so no problem there, however... The engine mounts didn't line up, took me awhile to figure out the problem. The bellhousing is wider! The 1400 bellhousing from the dry-sleeve block is the same as the 1600, which means its thicker, about 15mm thicker. This means the engine mounts have to be 15mm farther forwards. I've got two solutions for that, one is to just attach the mounts farther forward moving the engine up (right now the engine mounts are un-assembled because I made custom bushings for them), the other is to use the original thinner bellhousing, which apparently from the 1400 wet-sleeve is only 2mm thicker than the original 1100 bellhousing, HOWEVER that bellhousing will need to be modified to match up to the engine block like that other 1400 bellhousing I had modified to fit awhile back via RenaissanceMan. ALSO, because I used the 1400 rear transmission housing, I had to widen the firewall hole, and the rear transmission mount no longer fits either because of that housing :-\ So basically, I have a lot of work to do to even get the motor in the car when its ready...

Ouch. Thats gnarly. I think I saw an EA71 for sale a couple days ago in the for sale section FYI.

Wagons are usually EA71's, but it could be an EA63, and it will be an EA63 for sure if its pre-76. However EA63's look pretty much the same as gen 1 EA71's and they are pretty much the same size too.

Well if there really are FF-1 parts in there, I would want to buy any I can get a hold of. I could see spending $1-2k on parts if they are really in there. Even those EA62 heads I'd pony up ~$500 for if there is a set, thats what its going to cost me to refurbish the ones I have now.

I posted this over on the craigslist section, but I figure putting it here would get everyones attention who might be effected by it... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111971 Yes, thats 100,000+ BRAND NEW pre-80's Subaru parts!!! :slobber: :slobber: If anyone is serious and has the means, I'd be willing to go in on a group buy for the lot. Seriously.

Thats awesome! Make sure to post a video when it airs

I showed the pics to the paint guys... They said get rid of as much of it as I can :-\ So i'm going to take most of the heavy stuff completely off. Maybe leave some of the flat areas where I know they can work with. But ya, no good...

Can we see some photos of it? That might help.

The wiring would be entirely dependent on what distributor and carburetor are installed on the motor. The only other items plugged in on the motor are the oil pressure switch and coolant temp switch, which is usually on the radiator I believe.

Hey shawn! Its probably going to be awhile...

RAM is quite expensive, more expensive than my local machine shop that can do basically the same things (minus the fancy pullies and what not)

I promised pics of the body work I've been "trying" to do awhile ago, so here are a few... The rest are here: http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Kostamojen/FF-1%20Pre-Paint%20Photos/

I was taking pics and realized I didn't have any showing the intake/exhaust port flow of this head, so here you go: That makes for a total of THREE turns for the intake from the carb to the combustion chamber. The exhaust port is one turn, basically straight out the side. Plus, I took pics of the gaskets for your amusement... The exhaust gasket could actually be matched a little better:

I just double checked something, realized I made a couple errors. 1) The EA63 1400 2-port head has a slightly LARGER compression chamber. That was the head I was using for CC measurements because its still assembled: What that means is that the CR is probably higher than I calculated. Probably about 5% less CC is my guess. 2) The piston isn't completely flush with the deck, its about .5mm lower (checked with a straight edge and feeler gauge... not perfect but worked) So I'm going to run some calculations again to see what I come up with...