Kostamojen

According to the FIRST page of the 72-75 parts manual, there were 3 "stages" for the 73 model year, depending on VIN number. Here is the coupes information: Stage I: A11L-700001 thru A22L-701102 Stage II: A22L-701103 thru A22L-704200 Stage III: A22L-704201 thru A22L-711000 HOWEVER, as far as I can tell, the differences between these stages is strictly limited to minor engine changes , mostly involving gaskets or accessories (like oil pans, carburetors, manifolds or air cleaners, etc.) which are only minor changes that I believe are still compatible over the years (like you can use pretty much any early EA oil pan on these engines, bolt pattern is the same) In terms of the years, the 72-74 models shared most of the same engine/transmission/body components and were relatively unchanged. It was 75 when the engines went from 4-port to 2-port, and the general consensus is that the 4-ports are better for "flow" especially since they share similar valves to the 2-ports and even the EA71's. The camshaft is usable on the 4-ports vs. 2-ports and in the EA71 too (same mounting location/width etc., just different lobes) 75 was the first major change in terms of components. The front control arm changed in 75 to a new design with a different style front swaybar. HOWEVER, if you wished, you probably could swap that over to a newer style component (people here have swapped in early 80's front control arms and used Legacy front hubs with custom coilovers so they can upgrade their front brakes and run 5-lug wheels, but thats not necessary). The rear suspension stayed basically unchanged, and as i've mentioned the FWD rear drums stay the same up to the early 80's. I believe the braking system was un-boosted up until 1975, at least according to the parts catalog, HOWEVER, you could probably find a brake booster/master cylinder from a later model and install that, or perhaps try to retrofit a newer style brake master cylinder/booster if you have that kind of ability. In terms of the CHASSIS and BODY, the part numbers all change at 75, which is the year of the new fascia. HOWEVER, interestingly, the coupe lights/grills appear to have changed in 74! Most every other change in body parts occurs in 75 for the rest of the line. The front grill specifically changes from a "slat" design to a "grill" design. However, I think most of the body pieces are "swapable" between the years. Front fenders I know are compatible even with 1980 brats if you update the grill and hood and such too, so theres quite a bit to look through for body pieces. I think the weather molding is the same for all gen-1's as well (especially the windshields). Here is the "GSR" coupe in 1973" (not sold in the states): This was the final iteration of the Coupe (which I believe started in 77) before the Gen-2's arrived in 1980:

Theres a 3rd option if you are really considering an automatic... EA81 and EA82 cars had FWD automatic gearboxes (3-speeds I believe) they weren't that great, but they would bolt-in easier than an EJ FWD automatic transmission. But really, if you want reliability and automatic, i'd probably go with an EJ drive train. You have limited options if you want to bolt a Automatic transmission to the 1400 due to the location of the starter, but there were a few (very few) late 70's and early 80's models that offered automatics with the FWD drivetrain.

I don't believe we have such a page. But if you have the VIN number, I can clarify exactly what model/designation and such it is. I believe there was only one major "re-design" of the 70's model coupes, and that was just a facia change later on. So you have a first-gen 70's coupe with the 4-port EA63 engine. I can use the VIN to figure out exactly which motor/model you have though through the FSM and parts manual.

The front disc brakes were never on US spec cars I just called Charlie a couple days ago too, but ya, unless he has a Japanese (or possibly south-American) spec "sports' model, he won't have the disc brakes. Plus, I already gave him a list of parts i'm looking for, I don't think he needs more, lol!

Front brake caliper bracket.

Hey look, an exhaust for my car! http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k112247034#enlargeimg Wow, engine mounts and new mouldings too: http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r55929129#enlargeimg http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b98511998#enlargeimg This is interesting, but it sucks I need ALL of the assembly not just this: http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n76986468#enlargeimg

Looks like a pre-79 bumper beam to me. I think those pics were posted over on the Japanese Nostalgic Forums, they've got a running thread going about junkyards.

That I have That I don't have... Sitting outside? Not so much. Driving in the rain? Possibly. I do want this chassis to be able to hold up to the elements as best as possible.

That is something i'm concerned about. There doesn't appear to be anything inside the sills. How should I go about rust proofing that area? There's not much access to that area either.

Maybe WCSS 12 Right now, i've spent enough to buy a Yaris. When i'm done, I'll probably have spent enough to buy a new WRX.

Thanks Aust = Australia I presume?

Here you can see exactly how much room there is now. But REMEMBER, this is bottomed out, so when its riding at the normal height this means its low enough but it won't hit anything when it does bottom out: I used a credit-card size card to see exactly how low parts of the car are at right now. Still plenty of ground clearance: I'm 5'9", so you can see here exactly how small the car is:

Got the new struts on. Here are a few pics... Old Struts bottomed out: New Struts bottomed out:

I apologize for yesterdays craptastic photos. Here are a few that actually turned out nice... (Lighting makes all the difference!)

Ya, i'm still interested in the grill. Don't need front corner lights though, got the clear ones from Japan. I've got two brand new taillights too, but they are both one side (although I was going to flip the lenses around and still use them) but let me know what you do have and what you are able to get rid of!

I did this at a bad time, not very good light. Ill try again tomorrow morning. Its no problem either since I can push it in and out of the garage by myself

Tires installed and on the car! I'll roll it out the garage this weekend and take GOOD photos... But I know what length of shocks I need now (its bottomed out right now, which means I need SHORTER shocks) Plenty of rear clearance now! Bad news... The FRONTS need spacers They don't clear the center of the hubs... I saw a pic on that JDM blog that had spacers in the front and I wondered why, now I know...

Just got the wheels back from the powdercoater... Tires will be here Tuesday

806738040 - Still good, thousands in stock 806770013 - Still good, ~60 in the US 812764110 - Still good, ~200 in the US 11121AA011 - Still good, ~30 in the US 11126AA000 - Still good, hundreds of thousands stocked 824206100 - Still good, hundreds in stock 15208AA000 - Still good (supersedes) thousands in stock 806910050 - Still good, ~500 in stock 806947020 - Still good, ~1000 in stock 806915050 - Still good, ~250 in stock 420737110 - Still good, only 5 in stock!!! 420587110 - Still good, only 8 in stock!!! 420747110 - Still good, only 3 in stock!!! 420727110 - Part number does not exist 420777310 - Still good, only 2 in stock!!! 30539AA000 - Still good, ~2500 in stock Those plug wires you can get probably at any auto store... Or go with something better, like NGK or MSD custom wires.

First I cleaned the surface of the heavy dirt deposits. Then I used either a wire rotary brush on an angle grider, or a paint striper tool for a drill to remove the paint/rust as much as possible (you can actually leave the rust with Por-15, but you do need to clean the surface of debris) Then I applied the "metal-ready" Por-15 brand metal-prep (which does some de-rusting as well as making the surface of the metal more "grippy" for the paint) Then I applied the Por-15 with disposable foam brushes, usually 3 coats letting it dry overnight. Lastly I applied the "Black Coat" product from Por-15's catalog using foam brushes as well, about 3 coats of that, perhaps more or less depending on the application, letting it dry overnight. Both Por-15 and Blackcoat can be sprayed on if you have the tools to do that. But I used these specifically so I could brush them on and apply it to only the surfaces I wanted to paint and in some cases thicker in certain spots. Worked pretty well IMO. However, everything that will be more visable on the car that I want to paint black, will be powder-coated instead.

Just paint, and I used Por-15 with the "Black Coat" topcoat paint over it.

Are you doing a restoration? If not, I'd ditch that fan assembly and put in a second electric fan that won't fall apart as easily as those do.

Sorry for the lack of updates lately. I've been working on things that aren't really worth photographing yet, but heres what i've got going on right now... I put the front and rear suspensions partly back together (the front is almost done, minus bushings, and the rear is done but the whole torsion-rod setup back there will require me to build it off the car and reinstall it) so when my wheels/tires are done I can test the ride height and pick which shocks I'll used based on minimum-height. Here are a couple photos of the rolled front fenders that actually came out quite well: Oh, and I test-fit the "Sports" / JDM front grill! As you can see, it does a MUCH better job of hiding the front suspension than the original valence did...

EG33 would require MAJOR cutting of the frame rails to squeeze it in there... If you want to do a drag car, and want to keep it relativly easy, I'd try a EJ22T. People have been fitting EJ22's in the engine bay no problem, and the EJ22T has the same shape of cylinder heads which means the clearance will be the same as the EJ22, but you have a turbo of course

Awesome! Thanks! /hijack