Kostamojen

So is anyone interested in the Enkeis or the 13"s with tires that I was using for transporting the car? (the owner of them doesnt want those wheels/tires back, cause he has no where to put them ) The Enkei's i'd have to sell for $300, and the 13's with tires i'm just giving away to anyone who wants to pick them up.

Did some more "mock up" today to figure out if I needed any more bolt/screw holes and such, and to figure out what exactly I need to do for interior panels. I thought maybe I might be able to re-use some of the press-board pieces, but it looks like thats not a possibility. I can use them as a template though. The rear panel actually needs to be wider and also shorter so it fits its space better. I don't plan on running a rear seat, so i'll need to cover some areas there that aren't currently covered. I'll also have to extend the rear under-window area a bit to cover some of those holes. I'll probably make that out of cardboard next weekend if i'm not busy. As you can see, i'm trying to figure out what I want to do about gauges. Since I wanted to run a tach and oil temp/water temp gauge, I figure I might as well do a whole custom dash... I went over which items I'll need to operate the heater/vents, but I figure I can trim off a bit of that lower dash piece since I won't be running a stereo. I can also put some power-plug sockets in the holes on the dash on either side (I have some extra ones from a forester dual-plug kit). I'm not sure what to do about turn signal bulbs... I havent found anywhere that sells them yet. Other than that, I have a good idea of what size gauges I want to run now. I plan on doing a mechanical speedo, 8000rpm tach, oil temp gauge, water temp gauge, voltmeter and fuel gauge. I'm not sure which fuel gauge to get, I need to figure out what the sensor range is for the stock fuel level sensor. I'm also not 100% sure about mechanical speedos and using the stock speedo wire, so I need to look into that. But ya, I do plan on keeping the dash like that, except powder coat it black... Maybe do a red vinyl stripe to cover up the holes above where the gauges will go. The "wood-look" surface is completely non-usable, and ugly anyway Oh, and I still havent decided on a spot to mount the MSD ignition... But there are several options I can see now. Here are the pics from today:

If I can't get any EA63 heads, I can rebuild the EA61... But I was trying to avoid rebuilding the wet-sleeved block, so I could use the EA63 4-port heads with a used EA71 shortblock that I could rebuild easily (a couple guys at work want to help rebuild it). Are those shims the copper ships for the wet sleeves, or something else? Ya, actually about the wheels you are correct, thats how Stockton wheel makes custom steel wheels... They cut out the inside of a used wheel and mat it up to a blank wheel size (like a 14"x6" blank) and weld it to whatever offset you need. And then powder coat it of course

The best part is showing the factory while they are manufacturing EA61's

I'm going to use one of the early 80's alternators on mine, but I bought a Bosch unit brand new. It might require swapping out the pulley, but other than that, its the same as any other internally-regulated alternator upgrade.

Fender clearance isn't an issue with the tire size ill be using. Its all about suspension clearance... Right now, due to the complications with wheel studs and spacers, i'm about to give up on these wheels and go back to my original plan of having custom steel wheels made. Other than that, i've had to go out and buy a space heater to heat the garage so I can work and i've been spending most of my spare time lately dealing with holiday stuff so I haven't been working on the car too much. I did manage to order a bunch of OEM nuts/bolts for re-assembling the front and rear suspension, along with the steering rack couplings which I was AMAZED they were still availible! I'm also mocking up the dash and other interior components to make sure i've got all the holes correct and such. I'm still not sure what i'm going to do about paint/bodywork... Its too cold to do bondo work, and its expensive to have someone else do it. So i'm basically on hold with that until I save up more money or until it warms up. Also, I don't currently have an engine The single port engine I have won't work as I've mentioned before, and so far every attempt to find a 4-port EA63 has failed... My single port EA63 is up for sale if anyone is interested.

1970 FF-1 1100 Coupe 1.1l EA61 4-speed Manual Unknown Mileage (either 86677, 186677, 286677, etc.) $250 at a Junkyard courtesy worknwood When found: Currently:

Been working on the car all day, and even test fit the wheels. There is a slight problem with the offset... As you can see, it BARELY clears the suspension, has about 1mm of clearance, but thats NOT including the tire which will be wider. So, I need spacers! I don't know how big yet until I get tires, and ill probably need longer studs too :unamused: I figured I might need spacers with these wheels since they have the stock offset of +55, but I probably won't need spacers for the fronts which is good, and they will probably clear the fender good on the front. Couple more pics:

For everyone's reference, here are those wheels on a couple of FF-1's from pics i've seen floating around the web...

Alright, i'm going to keep fiddling around to see where I can fit the MSD and fuel pump. I still need to purchase the fuel pump though, then i'll have a better idea of what I have to work with. I think the MSD will fight fine under the dash OR under the hood, but i'm not 100% sure yet until I fit the dash back on...

Lower than the tank??? I'm not sure thats possible on this chassis... And the stock one was up under the spare tire, similar to the other 70's Subaru's. I'm confused now I have space to put the MSD either under the dash or under the hood. Under the hood it would be right near the coilpack and battery, making the wiring shorter, not sure if that matters much.

Couple things... Folks with experiences mounting Fuel pumps and MSD ignitions... What are the recommended mounting locations for these, especially fuel pumps? I was going to put the carter fuel pump i'm getting in about the same area as the factory pump, but the MSD ignition has a perfect spot there to mount it. What are the requirements for where I have to mount a fuel pump? And seriously, if anyone wants to make some extra money on the side, I really think the car could use some seam welding in a few locations...

http://209.85.135.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/ultimatetarga/12623985.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dultimatetarga%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG&usg=ALkJrhhT12aTkkdOd7pT1f8KxCsrcrPKOg I've actually seen them before, on that car to be specific.

You already posted a thread about this? Anyway, the 2nd issue had an AWESOME Subaru 50th anniversary article! Best magazine ever IMO

My new (used) wheels just arrived from Japan Yes, those are 14x6" JDM Enkei's with the correct offset Special thanks to kiernna on NASIOC for purchasing these from a Japanese Yahoo auction and shipping them to me! And yes, i'm going to have them repaired/repainted ASAP, should be perfect!

Sorry, they are not my wheels. They are on loan. Ya, i'd do the EA71 shortblock with the 1400 4-port heads if I could. I would have to switch out the cam though. I'd probably do a full rebuild on the block just to be safe, and send the heads out for porting too. But thats not something I have to do right away, so no rush...

I guess I should probably update this... I got the car back a couple weeks ago, and i've been doing a few little things with it (mostly dealing with the stock chassis seam sealer that i'm trying to clean up). Here are the pics i've yet to post here: So right now, i'm working on making mounting locations for things like the new battery, MSD ignition, coil pack, etc. I still need to buy the carter fuel pump I plan on using so I can mount that. After that, i'll be taking the suspension back in to have the bushings made for the front, and then i'll be doing some bondo/filler work to clean up the body before paint. HOWEVER, there are a couple other things i'm considering... Anyone want to do some seam welding? I've found a few spots while removing the exess seam sealer that would probably strenghten up the car if they were welded. PLUS, i'm also contiplating doing some of that "chassis strengthening foam" in the rocker panel space. I think it would both help with chassis strength, saftey and noise. Any thoughts on that? Oh, and right now, I think a roll cage might be out of the picture... It would take me a couple extra months to save the money for it. I also discovered that the hood needs more reinforcement since it bends when you try to support it from the support location, so that will cost a little extra to fix. More bad news, I discovered that the single-port EA63 won't clear the engine mounts OR the engine/suspension crossmember I have to go with 4-port heads, so I need either EA63 4-port heads, a whole EA63 4-port motor, or to rebuild the EA61. Subieguy did post a link for a EA63 4-port motor for $100, ill probably just get that (maybe throw a EA71 shortblock on it later). On a positive note, I found some wheels 14" JDM enkeis that are on the way from Japan right now. They will require some repair, but we've seen pics of these on FF-1's before so I know they will fit, and they will work with the 195/45/14 tires I plan on running. Ill post pics when they arrive...

Front or rear?

Looks great! Thats what i'm going for too, cleaning it up like that. Although I think i'm going to paint the valve covers red (the yellow valve covers I did before on the 78 wagon turned out great!)

Roseville Rod & Custom had their 3rd annual open house today, I took a few pics... And yes, my car was there

Do you mean the air injection system? I have one from the EA63 i'm not going to use, but I'd just plug the holes if I were you.

Alright, thanks. I'm still not sure what i'm going to do about transporting the car back, I don't really want to roll the car around with no steering rack and nothing holding the suspension together. I'll know for sure later this week.

Just to show you guys, heres a pic I just made showing the shock travel with the new fenders: Now since shocks work best in the MIDDLE of their travel length, i'm thinking now maybe I should run a shorter rear shock, like maybe one that has a .5"-1" shorter minimum height? I might risk rubbing the tire over bumps and such, but it might be able to sit lower and be in the "proper" range. What do you think?

So I stopped by the shop again today to approve the fenders... I have to say, they exceeded my expectations! I can now fit a larger tire no problemo in the rear We are going to roll the front fenders too for room. I should even be able to run a shorter shock and get the car REALLY low if I wanted to! Pics from today: Now here is the opposite side, which isn't complete yet, but it gives you an idea of the work that they are doing to the car. I should be taking the car home next weekend. Does anyone in the Sacramento area have a spare set of 4x140 wheels/tires I can borrow? I have to give these wheels back to subjunkies so he can give them back to Jibs next weekend, and the guys at Roseville Rod volunteered to drop the car off at my house (since I'm close by) but they'd like to just roll it in rather than take the car back apart. I went to the pick n' pulls in the area, and there were some OK wheels but not many usable tires...

I mean, which specific transmission? There are some with gearing that might be better suited to your purpose. You don't need a "major" rear-end upgrade, just use a R180 (STI diff case) and some built axles. There are several folks using setups like that for non-STI Imprezas with 500hp+ Oh, and you won't get into 13's without forced induction