Kostamojen

Yes, yes you do. Just think of how insane it would be... "Oh hi there, nice STI... GOODBYE!" *zoom* You must do this, I've been wanting to see it for awhile, especially since I could never tackle that kind of project myself.

If anyone else is interested in an FF-1, there is one for sale in South Bend: http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/2666470350.html

I put the WRX pedal covers over the clutch and brake pedals on my FF-1. They didn't fit 100% correctly but damn close and it wasn't anything a little body tape couldn't fix. I think the pedals are the same on the other 70's models too, so it might be worth a try.

That sunroof is wild.

Some sort of search based generic website? No idea. I don't mind though, not like I'm publishing the photos for profit.

I couldn't use an EA71 but thanks.

Honestly? I just need another dry-sleeve 1400, or even just the passanger side case to fix the problem. All the internals are good (I hope, I don't know what the coolant did to them) so the case is the obvious issue. I Emailed danny to see if he has anything...

I just figured out the problem, its far far worse than I could have imagined... Right now I'm just totally furious. I should have noticed this before, but I think this motor was scraped at some point and the dealer drilled holes in it to scrap it. The good news is that I DIDN'T INSTALL ANYTHING WRONG! But now, I don't have the money to fix this, if it even can be fixed...

Its worse than expected. I drained the coolant from the motor, but after unbolting the head (I couldn't remove it, just slid it) the crankcase did indeed have coolant in it so I had to drain the oil too... I can't find anything wrong with the headgasket. I even re-bolted it back up and tested it again, and the same problem. I can't see any visual spot where its coming from. I'm concerned now it might becoming from behind the piston if thats even possible... In an case, this is worse case scenario, I have to remove the motor completely :-\

Well, its not the intake manifold gasket... I took off the manifold and filled the empty coolant channels on the left head with water and sure enough it leaks down into the cylinder. The worst part is I don't think I can get the head off without removing the entire drivetrain... howpow: The EA63 and EA64 channels matched up perfectly. I checked that well in advance. I think I figured out my mistake though, in the manuals it says to "brush the headgasket with threebond", I didn't do that. Also, there weren't any alignment thingies for the heads other than the bracket. I noticed on the EA71 heads that there was some kind of bushing around one of the head bolts that kept everything lined up better, neither the heads or block in my case had that.

Motor (solid deck 1400) came from Colorado, heads (EA62) came from a junkyard FF-1.

I don't think a small crack could do this. I mean, the entire cylinder fills up all the way to out of the plug hole in just a second or two.

Theres only the one hole from that going into the exhaust port. If it were leaking into there, it would leak when the valve was closed out the exhaust port still.

Ya, I was hoping you would do better, but the final three is really an accomplishment. I think Distorto's votes have a lot to do with his photography, if you had some better photos it might have helped score a few more votes. But its by far the best final 3 they've had... Each one from a different forum really (USMB, Dirty Impreza, and NASIOC) so that turned out pretty good.

The #1 only has the one threaded air port that goes into the exhaust port. I could visually see if there was anything leaking in from there, and its not.

Here are the heads: I went over all my photos of the heads/block... I have no clue how this is happening. I can visually look inside the exhaust port btw and see whats going on there. Its not coming in from the back of the exhaust valve area thats for sure.

I took off the valve cover, nothing was amiss around the valves or anything. I also drained the cylinder head of coolant twice AND tightened the cylinder head bolts. Nothing changed, with the exhaust valve opening the floodgates just come rushing in on cylinder 1 If it really is the headgaskets, I'm pissed, cause I did them EXACTLY by the book. Even used the factory head alignment tool.

Alright, I've been doing more testing before I start taking everything apart (which I really DON'T want to do). Good news: All 3 other cylinders are fine, its only the #1 that fills with coolant. Bad news: Its only the #1.... which means it can't be the intake manifold gasket. Odd things: The coolant only seems to come into the cylinder when either of the valves are open or start to open. I rotated the crank after draining out the cylinder several times, and if both valves are closed it won't fill with any coolant, but as soon as the valve starts to open the flood gates start up... Is it possible pressure from the pushrod somehow could be causing the gasket to separate or something?

Good luck trying to get the valves to be quieter than that

I hooked up my shop vac to a funnel and a tube and vacuumed as much as I could out. I could see in there with my flashlight, so I know most of it is gone right now. I did put a little oil in there. I didn't want to crank it right now cause that might flood another cylinder... The worst part was when I was blowing air in, I could feet the air blowing out of the radiator... That means it blew all the way through the block, through the water pump, through the radiator and out :-\

No, I haven't. I'm hoping its something simple like the intake manifold gasket...

Well, the worst possible thing just happened... I got my radiator fans all installed, put the radiator back on the car with everything all buttoned up nicely and started to fill the radiator... Coolant started pouring out of the #1 exhaust pipe :| I checked all 4 cylinders, 2-3-4 are all fine, but #1 was TOTALLY full of coolant. I drained the radiator and sucked out as much coolant as I could from the plug hole, but I'm totally screwed

OK, scratch the old disty... It won't fit :-\ Turns out the 1100 disty has a longer shaft down the bottom which doesn't fit in this 1400 block! Now, I need to try wiring up the EA81 disty and some sort of coil to go along with it using stock wiring.

Ya, I ran a test lamp in the #1 AND from the coil, nothing. I also tested it via the MSD method of checking for spark which is disconnecting the coil cable and the white wire, then getting it close to a ground to see if it arcs... Kind of a scary method, tried it once and blew a fuse and went back to the lamp, LOL! The EA81 Disty I have now I had it completely dissembled at one point, cleaned it back up and did everything per the book (IE using the correct type of grease, etc.). I didn't see anything about heat-sink paste in the manuals, so maybe I missed something, but I'm fairly certain nothing is even getting to the disty in the first place. I have everything re-wired already, and I'm putting the original disty back in now (which I know works), I've just got to make sure I get it in correct, but theres a terminal on the disty that had a black wire going to it in my old photos that I"m not sure what to do with... Is that just a ground? (checking the manuals now)

I think something is wrong with the MSD. I plugged in a different coil that I know works, along with testing the resistance on both coils and they show as being good, and still no spark. I also just now tried re-wiring it more like the original diagram with the white wire setup. Still nothing. I think I need to test everything out as it would be stock, bypassing the MSD. I'll have to try and figure out how to do that though :-\