Kostamojen

Its a REPCO camshaft, part number 056-4000. There is a 3 on the camshaft, and a S-01 (possibly 8-01, hard to make it out). On the other side, there is a 3 digit number I can't read, looks like G13, but it could be 813 or S13 or 313.

What makes you think that the cam has different lobs because of the different locations of the intake valves? Here are my cams, the "new" cam was on ebay:

Looks a lot like a Subaru hub, but ya those are not Subaru brakes. Seeing that pic of the VW brakes, it does look like that is what they are.

Thanks for all the offers guys. It looks like I have a lot of options still, I just need to decide what route to go. It will probably be weeks before I do make that decision though... I've got plenty to do with the car in the mean time thats for sure. (i've already started a pile of parts for powder coating)

I actually know someone who does lead work, he even taught some folks at a local body shop how to do lead work. But really, i'm not looking for a "perfect" body job, I just want the holes filled properly, the metal replaced properly, along with some reinforcement then get it painted. That is if I did it myself...

I actually went to harbor freight looking for the body hammers/dollies, found two cheap kits, didn't know if there was something better out there so I held off buying one. I can go back and pick one up. I don't want to use bondo for the restoration, at least I'm not concerned about "concealing" anything more than actually fixing the problems with the metal. I have used it before on the '78 wagon, mostly to help "conceal" some roof holes I had to patch on that car (I didnt weld those patches either, just used some sheet metal + JB weld... total ghetto job, but it sealed the holes). I don't want to go that route again unless neccessary.

I've seen that car for sale before...

You make it sound so easy I do know I should pick up a set of bodywork/metal working tools to pound out a few of these dents, but i'm not sure exactly what I need for that. I could also use that to help fab metal pieces for the car, but again, not sure exactly what I should do for that either if I do this myself...

Not anytime soon.

It will clear the hood fine. And the Edelbrock is staying, since it is a Edelbrock air cleaner (and a solid piece of very nice polished/painted metal I don't want to fubar with). I thought about having the intake manifold ported, but it doesnt really need it if I use this engine as it is.

Felt like messing with the engine today. Here are a couple pics with the Weber 38/38 and adapter installed with the intake manifold and air-cleaner I purchased. I had to modify the air-cleaner adapter and bottom of the air-cleaner slightly to get it to fit right, and I did a little dremeling with the intake manifold and adapter to get the airflow more flush with each other: I will probably put the new water pump and oil pumps I purchased on this engine later on, along with blocking off the air injection ports on the heads. I might also do some more polishing with the intake manifold and maybe clean the engine up a little more, don't know yet.

http://linaracing.com/pics/gallerydirectory.php?dir=2003-conversion

What torque? The 01-04 H6 has less torque than an 02 WRX, which came with a 5-speed, and the 5-speeds have plenty of upgrades if you think thats an issue, or screw it and go straight for an STI 6-speed...

5-speed manual swap FTW!!! SVX guys do it all the time.

Just use the shortblock from the other EA71 then, and use the cam from the "super" block.

Ya, you can just clean up/fix those pistons and use them in the other motor no problemo. Use the cam and other internals as well if they are modified.

Yes, thats a first gen EA71... The later gen EA71 (~1980) is a similar case to the EA81. Looks like the carbs (new) are about $350-400 each, thats about normal for a carb. Find some used ones on Ebay or something.

From what I see right away: Larger valves with aftermarket spring caps Custom pistons for HIGHER compression (note the recessed area for the valves) Bore size is stock Possibly aftermarket studs Possibly custom pushrods Got any good pics of the exhaust ports? Get those valves out so we can see in there better From what I see so far, those custom pistons alone make this engine worth having... But it definitely had some water in it at some point! Look at the rust in there :-\

Wow, those welds ARE nice on that EA71! The exhaust ports look ported as well. LOL @ the fence jumping picture!

Success! I got the windshields out! It just took a bit more silicon spray and force than I originally thought, but the rear one came out super easy, and the front one came out with a little bit of work... The good news: The molding and windshields came out WITHOUT any damage! The bad new: I talked to a body shop this week, and they basically told me, "learn to weld" :-\ Anyway, here are a couple pics from today... The rear window area had a bit of rust that I just removed and put some paint on, hence the nice bright white color. The front window area was actually in good shape, no rust except one small spot, but it does have some dings on the passenger side area that need fixing:

Ya, see in that pic the transmission crossmember bolts to the rear housing case on the transmission, not the transmission case... The 5-speed has a TOTALLY different rear housing compared to the 4-speeds. However, fabricating a mount isnt a huge deal anyway :-p Rear discs??? Well, I guess its possible they were converted later, but I don't recall ANY 1970's scoobs even in Japan with rear discs. People have done rear disc conversions on gen-1's before (using 80's parts though).

Well after checking the manuals, I can't tell exactly where the transmission bolts to the car on the 5-speeds... If its on the case itself, it will be the same as the 4-speed, but if it bolts up using the rear housing, then it will be different.

Well the major difference was the starter location and case design starting with the EA81 trannys, but the internals I believe are basically the same for the 4-speed FWD's going all the way up until they stop being produced (at least according to the service manual diagrams). That will work perfect! Yes, the transmission brace does change, you kind of need the appropriate one for that car, but i'm not sure exactly how the 5-speed mounts compared to the 4-speed, ill take a look here in a sec.

I checked for FWD trans around here yesterday at the PnP's, came up empty unless you want a Auto or a 5-speed from a late 80's model :-\

The curb weight of a 72 GSR coupe with 4-speed manual is 1845lbs (source: SOA Service manual). The Japanese specifications for that same model (IE JDM model) is 1675lbs, but i'm not sure what exactly was changed. With everything striped down, i'm sure it weighs less than that, but this car also has a full roll cage (heavy) and a few other bits that might increase weight slightly, so I think with the stripped interior + cage its probably in the 1600lbs range.