Kostamojen

You know, working Mon-Fri 8-5 is making this project difficult for me since ALL the body shops have the same hours I do, plus take the same holidays off

Actually no, I didn't cut out any more rust spots.

BTW, I see clutch cables for mid-late 70's scoobs on Ebay all the time. Here is one for example: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CA889-Clutch-Cable-Subaru-72-73-74-75-76-77-78-79-80_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46104QQihZ021QQitemZ310004628528QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V As for the transmission, i'd go for a 5-speed FWD transmission if you can find one. If you want to stick with 4-speeds though, I've got a complete list of gear ratios for the 4-speed FWD's if that is important for the project. The EA81 is probably a good idea, fits fine in the engine bay and operates as simple as the other early EA motors so wiring will be just as simple. If he wants performance, go with the Weber 38/38 over the 32/36. P.S. if the owner doesnt want that Supercharger setup anymore, i'd be ver interested in buying it from him

EA63 for sure, note the coolant pass over that has a separated piece with a hose instead of a single solid piece of aluminum (EA71's have the solid cross over pipe). It looks like the heads have some MAJOR porting! BTW, this car was on ebay a few years ago, here are the pics from when it was on Ebay:

Just for reference, here are the pics from today... Lets see if anyone can see exactly what I did :-p I also found a new rust spot on that last pic on the driver side rear fender well (couple holes there, not good)

Did some more bodywork today, removed a couple little extra metal pieces, ground down some other weld spots and such. Gave up on the windows, going to have to use someone to get them out, I just don't have the right tool to do it nor the skill the do it properly. The good news is the rubber is in VERY good condition from what I can tell, since its easy to work with and not dry in any way (the petroleum slathering helped I believe).

Man, using the rope to dislodge the windshield gaskets and remove the windshield + gaskets together without damaging the gasket is a pain in the butt

Oh yes its going on the FF-1, your carb is in FAR better shape than any of the carbs I have, and of course the best performing (and actually relatively easy to tune), but it might be awhile before its up and running

Another Carb just arrived, rebuilt perfectly courtesy Jerry DeMoss! Its the Weber 38/38, which as you can see is similar to the 32/36 but superior in several ways

The inside isn't too bad, its mostly the outside that has problems. The rear window molding is in better shape than the front too.

No rust = Awesome! Front bumper smashed in a bit = Not so awesome... :-\

Sorry for the lack of recent updates, been kind of busy (just finished working 12 days in a row for inventory :unamused: ) but I've got a couple of new shots of the car to keep you occupied. Oh, and I'm also soaking the windshield molding in petroleum jelly as recommended to make it softer for removal in the next week or two, and i've also put started putting together a binder (with photos and such) to show body shops. Anyway, some pics as promised:

Awesome pics! I LOL'ed at the size comparo pic :-p

Cheap aftermarket engine mods (coilpacks, ignitions, carbs, etc.) as opposed to expensive Impreza engine mods

From an ORIGINAL Subaru brochure: Length - 117.9" Width - 51.2" Height - 53.1" Wheelbase - 70.9" Tread (front 44.9", rear 42.1") Ground Clearance - 6.3" Vehicle weight - 925lbs Total GVW (IE with passengers/full load) - 1756.2lbs Turning circle - 26.2' Fuel tank - 6.6 gallons Anything else? I can scan the brochure if need be. There may also be more accurate sources out there too, but this is straight from SOA back when they first started up.

Off-topic question: I just discovered there are TWO versions of the 1977 FSM... The brown version (part number MSA-107) and the blue version (MSA-108). I presume the updated (correct) one is the blue one with the higher part number?

The axle should come out easily. However, the difficult part are the disc brakes in the front... They are a royal PITA due to the shims and "screw" based piston Make sure you have the correct piston un-winding tool, or are able to make one (I used an old socket).

BTW, here is the JDM equivalent... This issue even has a FF-1 article: http://cgi.ebay.com/NOSTALGIC-HERO-VOL-63-NISSAN-FAIRLADY-Z-DATSUN-1200_W0QQitemZ160232509597QQihZ006QQcategoryZ32081QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have a few chassis plugs I can test that with too...

That sounds like a plan. Heck, just a photo of that cross section is all thats really needed.

Oh its the US version? ITS based on that "nostalga-car" website I see... Cool. I subscribed, heck its only $9.99 for a year!

Thats what I was thinking I needed to do, thanks for the tip. I'll talk to my windshield guy at work and see if I can get more input as well, he might even let me borrow some materials if need be for the removal :-p

I would think that its a pretty standard seal setup for that time period... But yes, the windshields do have to come out. The next place its going is to the sandblaster/mediablaster (can't keep the windows in for that for sure)

I've seen some used copies on Ebay, one even had a FF-1 article supposedly (and in Japanese I presume)

Nope. Its not in too bad of shape, and doesnt feel "rock hard" but its probably not going to stay in one piece... If It can't be removed without saving the molding, it would leave only two options: 1) Have some sort of custom molding made (glue?) 2) Custom Race-style lexan windshields like on this Fiat: