Kostamojen

It's a hell of a lot easier than for example, building V8 headers from scratch...

Alright, I think i'm going to try and remove the windshields myself... The FSM just shows that you need to use a "window cord" to loosen the window gaskets from inside. Anyone have any tips on that, or where to find the proper cord? Moosens: Ya, I plan on this project taking quite awhile... But I don't have a family to worry about right now and I have plenty of time, so this project gets to be my #1 goal for the foreseeable future :-p Right now, I'm thinking its going to go easier than I expected, minus two or three small problems I didn't anticipate (the bearings in the front and rear suspension crossmembers, the front control arm bushings are toast, and one rear suspension bushing is toast and rusted onto the bolt). But everything now is going to depend on how the whole body work experience goes...

I did a bit of housecleaning today, took some pics of ALL the parts from the car (minus the backseat and seats, the front seats are gone minus the rails and the rear bench seat is in the attic)...

If it was a better price AND better shape I would have bought it... But yes, thats WAY too expensive (i've been buying the ones that are <$10 including shipping) AND in good shape.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Subaru-1400-Series-4WD-Service-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ119140QQihZ022QQitemZ350049737639QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Muffler shops are saying no? I don't believe that...

Go to a muffler shop and have them design some headers. I remember that car on E-bay too, the blue one with a knock-off rally paint job right?

I don't actually have the 75 FSM, havent spotted one for sale yet. I have the 74 and 76 USDM supplements. Sounds like I need the 75 FSM though...

Well here is what I have so far...

Put this little chart together listing the gearing for as many of the FWD 4-speeds that I could... Now the question is, are the internals from the later models still compatible with the FF-1 transmission casing???

That photo has been floating around the subaru boards as long as i've been around (~8 years). I heard at one point it was actually an EA81, but either way I like the idea. I'd love to use my EA61 for a custom bike...

Any other contributions?

The 1600 (early version) made its PEAK hp at 5200rpms, and the later versions were 4800 rpms... But the redline i'm not sure if there even was one back then, so I assume ~5500-6000rpms.

Thanks. I think the redline is 5500 for both the 1600/1800, at least according to a pic that subarujunkie showed me :-p So far, that 1982 1600 gearing seems the best...

Whats the final drive ratio on those first two? Are the EA81 internals (for compatibilities sake) the same as the 1600? And one more question, whats the RPM redline on the 82 1600 and 1800? (for calculating top speed)

I've been looking around for info about the 4-speed manual FRONT WHEEL DRIVE transmissions from 1980+ but haven't found much, and I don't have those FSM's. (I've found plenty of info about the 4WD's, but thats not important) So I'm curious if anyone has that info?

I saw some wheels like these on a Nova today: I think i'll go this route, they looked great and would look awesome on the FF-1

Anyone have the 4-speed manual FWD (IE NOT 4x4) gear ratios for the 1980's models?

I'm guessing you havent seen my Impreza and its mod list?

I was thinking I might put some on the back of the dash panel and behind the door panels, but I don't plan on doing any "permemant" sound deadening. I prefer the hardcore approach :-p

I used every engine FSM and supplement from the 1100 up to the 1977 1600. Specifically, the 1976 1400/1600 FSM assuredly states the 4-speed FWD and 4WD for the EA63 (specifically the EA63AFA,AFB,EF4 and EF5) all have a 4.125 final reduction ratio gear.

<1970 1000 - 4.375 >1970 1100 - 4.125 <1974 1300 - 3.889 <1976 1400 - 3.889 <1978 1400 - 4.125 <1980 1600 - 3.700 (3.889 4WD) 4-speeds only

Whew, I just worked on removing the little side vent windows on the doors from the window frame, and luckily the window molding came off 100% intact! I had to drill out the rivet that held each one on, but thats no big deal since I have a rivet gun to replace them when they get reinstalled...

Update: Spent today removing the side windows and all the components from the doors, along with unbolting the last of the hinges/parts from the hood and trunk, and removed (not very successfully) the emissions labels which I was trying to keep (might not considering they were thin metal and are tweaked all to hell now...) Tommorow i'm going to work on either moving the boxes of parts to a new location and/or documenting each body panel and printing out sheets so I can go over what exactly needs to be done with the car bodywork wise. After that, I have a few more pieces to some metal work with, then its on to having the windshields removed, and then bodyshop time Pics from today:

Yes I know that. But you said, "but the same idea could be applied to an EA" so I posted a link to an EA71 with that style of carb setup... A dual-single barrel on each head.