Kostamojen

Here is the EA63 motor I just picked up off ebay ( http://www.allengine.com GREAT vendor BTW! Sells imported Japanese motors of almost ANY kind) and picked up down in Fresno at the warehouse: Can anyone understand that compression chart? I've never seen one before.

The block # is 699821, so i'm fairly certain it isn't dry sleeved (very similar casting to the EA61 actually) However, most of the gaskets are new on the motor so its basically already rebuilt and ready to go.

Its the outer joint where the tie-rod connects to the control arm/trailing arms (front AND rear are being stubborn)... Its sad, cause in the FSM's and other manuals it says it just comes apart when you take out the lock bolts

Yes, some of the metal is pretty darn thin... But there are varying thicknesses in the car, its not ALL super-thin. I've kind of ruled out the acid dip at this point for several rather good reasons

I'm having a *************** of a time getting the tie-rods un-installed Anyone have any tips?

Hmm, 10.0/1 compression ratio? Sounds good. But that lack of power increase is odd... I only have the "early" 1300/1400 FSM, so I should probably pick up the later 1400 engine section FSM too for more detail. Anyway, what i'm thinking is: Dry sleeved EA63 block 4port heads (EA61 heavily ported, or EA63) Custom Cam (whichever one I need to use) EA63 intake manifold (that I already have) I'm hoping its the later 1976+ dry sleeve motor... If not, its still a good backup motor. I actually read that 1400 thread again, thats where I started getting curious about the different head configurations and cam configuration, it was mentioned that cams/valve location might be different on the later 1400's but wasn't confirmed.

Alright, strange question... Which heads are best? EA61 heads EA63 4port heads EA63 2port heads And which heads have to use which cam, or can all 3 use any of the 3 cams?

I do have an EA63 intake manifold, but i'm not sure if this dry-sleeve, single port exhaust version has the wider block...

Does this later EA63 require a wider intake manifold?

I just did some reading about Acid-diping. Other than the fact that there isn't one locally, there seem to be some possible issues with it.... Like the acid not washing off 100% sometimes, it can eat quite a bit of metal, and it can even air-out later through the paint :-\ Media blasting is still probably my best bet I think...

If I can find someone to acid dip then sure. Don't know if there is one around here...

The whole chassis and major components (doors, hood, trunk, etc.) are going to the sand blaster eventually.

So thats a dry block? Oh man, i'm definitely buying it then! I might be able to use the dual port heads with it

Update: Finally, some REAL progress today, not just small stuff. I removed the front and rear suspension and started dismantling them, lots of bolts on there that are a pain in the rump roast and aren't coming off that easily... But ill get it apart. I'm not sure how the front torsion rods come apart, but ill figure that out too. They came off in one piece, front and rear, which is awesome. However, several bushings do need replacing, and seeing as I can't get replacements, will need to be custom made. I think Ill work on making a diagram of what needs to be replaced and whats in decent shape. Anyway, here are the pics:

Yours had single port exhaust?

Oh i'm sticking with it all right, to the bitter end... Its just going to take much much longer than expected :-\

Went a little nutty with the angle grinder today, figured I needed to get that BAD rust off as much as possible, especially to see whats underneath... Here are a few pics of how bad it is I figure the sideskirt area on each side is eventually going to have to completely come off so that work can be done with whats underneath, then have that whole area replaced...

I just saw this on E-bay, and i'm thinking of picking it up as a backup engine for my FF-1 especially since its so cheap... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-EA63-Long-Block-1400cc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ019QQitemZ290216451194QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting From what it looks like, it is an EA63 (note the coolant crossover with the hose, indicates its an EA61/62/63) but it doesn't have the dual-port exhausts... Its from Japan, so i'm assuming its some mish-mash model engine thats not too common here. Any ideas?

Alright, I removed all the metal attached components that I won't be re-using (voltage regulator mount, coil pack mount, battery mount that was rusted all to hell, etc.) from the engine bay using my new angle grinder. I painted it over once again to keep it from rusting (or rusting worse). I did notice a few spots of bad rust in the engine bay I didn't see before Mostly discovered during removing some paint from some spots. I also caused a couple extra holes due to the spot welds of some of the on some pieces being over rusted out areas... But nothing that can't be fixed later. Anyway, some pics: Here is a previous engine bay shot for reference if you are curious what I actually did:

I honestly don't know which ones are which... I presume the 95-99 Outback brackets are like that as well, but I don't know for sure.

I've noticed over the years that theres a slight issue with lifting Imprezas, the rear trailing link... The rear trailing length is X amount of length, so when you lift it, it rotates to the point where the rear tire starts to get close to the front of the rear fender as we know: The expensive solution is an adjustable length trailing arm... However, reading the last Subiesport issue, it was mentioned in an article by the "Team Orange" drift group that they use different rear trailing link BRACKETS to adjust handling on RWD imprezas. Brackets you say??? Yes, aparently the Foresters and some Legacy's have DIFFERENT brackets that mount the same but actually have LOWER trailing arm mounting points! BIGSKYWRX over on NASIOC lucked out and actually had one of these brackets laying around, heres the photo: As you can see, theres about an inch or so height difference on where the bolt to the trailing arm mounts to. This might not help 100% with the rear tire clearance issue, but it will help some, and those brackets can be found off of junkyard cars if you don't want to buy them new so ya, cheap option! Anyone want to try it out and post a picture of the results?

Sorry for the lack of updates, keep getting busy or rained on during the weekends :-\ Anyway, I just bought an Angle-grinder and did some heavy rust removal today along with starting to remove some of the metal "wire holders" on the chassis (Ill use adhesive style attachments later... I dont like having to paint these things then have them chip and crack all over the place): (Note: The white paint is just to prevent rust from getting worse, its nothing permanent, will be blasted off when it goes to the blaster)

Alright, the fuel tank is out, so are the chassis brake lines, all the dash components, and all the wiring (finally) and all the fuel lines... The fuel delivery pipe (IE the one you pour gas in) has to wait until the rear suspension is removed due to the angle of the pipe and lack of room to move it. The fuel tank was a PAIN cause of that black sticky goo holding it down... I had to use several prying tools to get it out along with "sticker shocker" (a good airisol spray sticky stuff remover). Here are a couple pics of the bare chassis:

Yup, both are from 1400 motors.

As promised, an EJ diff compaired to a 4-speed diff: Did any other manufacturers use the 4-speed front differential? Honda/Toyota/etc.? Maybe one of them did and someone made an aftermarket LSD for it...