Kostamojen

Got the transmission case split The gears lookin pretty good shape, so does the differential. It has an AMAZINGLY simple shifting mechanism too. Nothing looks out of place and no bits are floating around. I'd still like to get some better gearing in there though... I also compared the EJ diff vs. the 4-speed diff, and yes its 100% different. The splines are smaller, the diff itself is smaller, everything is smaller. Any clue if maybe theres another manufacturer like Honda/Toyota/etc. who used this front diff and someone made an aftermarket front LSD to fit? Anyway, here are the pics:

Yup, moved here almost 10 years ago... Anyway, got the brakes off the transmission (the hub nuts were a pain!). The brake pads luckly are in good shape IE have plenty of pad left... I'm glad, cause I cant seem to find replacement pads. The drums look OK too, so thats good. Tommorow I'll be spliting the case...

Ill check my chiltons manuals for the later 4-speeds, but they might be the same... I dont think they changed much over the years. As for the 5-speed, from what I can tell, the 5-speed case is the same as the 4-speed, just the fact the 5th gear is in the housing. I can scan and post the diagrams this weekend to help clarify this if need be... But if you have a photo of the 5-speed, especially the 5-speed housing, I can get a better idea of what kind of connection it has for the shifter. The shifter setup is rather simple with the FF-1, it might be simple to modify or make something to work.

You borked it!!! I would have done an ej22t instead, easier to fit and lighter :-p

I just looked, the 5-speed gears have that 5th gear actually IN the rear housing, so you have to use the 5-speed case/housing, but I cant since I need to use the FF-1 rear housing... So 4-speed is the word.

Let me look at the 5-speed diagrams some... Also note, I'd have to use the rear housing from the FF-1 transmission since it is setup for the shifter that the FF-1 uses.

The 5-speed case is different, I have to keep the same transmission case due to how the inboard brakes bolt onto the transmission (whats interesting is the case design wasnt changed over the years sans the 5-speeds, but they plugged up the bolt holes on the case for the inboard brakes! Otherwise I might be able to use it)

I have the 1100, 1300, 1400, 1600 FSM's as well. Although, I know there are different year ones... My 1400 FSM is from ~72, but aparently theres one from like around 76? :-\ Anyway, back to transmission questions... Since the final drive gear is not swapable, what about ALL the gears? Could forseably I use a gear set in better condition/different ratios from another 4-speed? Or is the FF-1 not compatible? (i'll take a look at the FSM's tommorow myself just in case, I had a 12 hour work day today, but i figured i'd bring it up anyway)

Great info, thanks! Keep in mind, the whole engine wont be in and running for quite some time... (years possibly at this rate) But it helps to have as much info here as possible so I can reference it when needed

Sorry to bump this... Did anyone find out more about the 4-speed LSD's? If not, I intend to pop open the case on my FF-1 and compair it to a spare differential I have from an EJ 5-speed, see what I find.

What about in combination with the cam with the taller lift? Anyway, another question... Transmission thoughts: Front LSD possible? How about converting to a lower final gear (IE changing this from the stock 4.125 to 3.8 or 3.7? Assuming its simular to other EA 4-speeds...

The 1100/1300G FSM doesnt show intake and exhaust valve specs, just one set of specs... Outer spring: 42.2mm free length, 4mm wire diameter, 26mm maximum compressed length, maximum tension 43.7~50.3kg@28mm. Inner spring: 45.5mm free length, 2.6mm wire diameter, 24.3mm maximum compressed length, maximum tension 19.1~22.1kg@26mm. The EA71 tension is lower on the outter spring, SLIGHTLY higher on the inner spring, and half a cm taller... It looks like however the BEST valve springs are the "Sport" (IE dual carb, 95hp EA62/63) valve springs... But theres no way to get those, and if I could, i'd want the WHOLE engine :-p

Even cutting them down, what about the distance beetween that clip slit and the top of the valve stem, doesnt that need to be the same?

I havent seen any valve springs for sale, i've been looking. If you know somewhere or someone that has some, let me know. Also, need to figure out which ones have which tensions... Dont really want ones with lower tension rates, higher if possible.

I just measured the camshaft. The EA61 camshaft has 31mm lift, while the EA62/63 camshaft is ~33mm. Sound like a good improvement?

Heres a couple things I picked up on E-bay for really cheap that I wanted to see if were compatible with the EA61... Now the valves obviously are larger, but i'm concerned more about the length. The length will probably cause them to be incompatible, but i'm not sure if that can be fixed. I now some custom head work can fit the valves into the sockets, but thats different than modifying the valves themselves. The camshaft on the other hand looks to be rather compatible. Might require some work to use, but nothing major. The interesting thing is the lobes are taller, which means more lift, but the duration looks simular but sharper. I have all the actual camshaft numbers if anyone is interested in figuring out if the 1300/1400 camshaft is actually an upgrade for the 1100... (I bought it mostly cause I do believe this stock camshaft is shot, and a NOS camshaft that can be modded by someone like Deltacams is something useful to have)

EA bell housings are a seperate piece on the engine, not the transmission, just to make things clear. Heres an EA with the bellhousing... Now here it is with it removed...

I believe you need your EA63 bell housing with the EA71. Basically, I think you need to use the EA71, you need to run the full EA71 engine but use the clutch/bellhousing/flywheel/etc. from the EA63. You may need to use the distributor/alternator/etc. setup from your EA63, but the carb might not matter as much.

I think everything on that website is custom, but it is good to use as something to work with design wise... Anyway, I removed the transmission today, took a couple photos so you can get an idea of exactly how TINY this drivetrain is! I also removed the steering column and ventilation system, but I didnt photograph that today.

Wow, someone in Japan actually has pictures of an aftermarket muffler for the FF-1...

Well I went ahead and split the block today... Good thing I did, I found the center main bearings are damaged and the rest do need replacing. I didnt completely split the block though, left the pistions in, just split it enough to get out the camshaft and look inside. The camshaft needs a little help too, its got some damage too...

Thats what I need to know... If anyone has or can make the required parts.

Thats honestly what I want to do, but I cant find those sleeve gasket thingies anywhere... I can find bearings (although none stock size so far, either + size or - size) and piston rings, but thats it.

I figured some of you might enjoy this comparison, gives you a better idea of exactly how small the EA61 actually is... As you can see, I got the valves out today. I'm still not sure what I should do about the shortblock... Leave it or split it? It needs cleaning at the very least, which is hard to do while its not split. But if I cant get it back together again, theres no good reason to split it...

Should I try and split the short block? I really want to have a cam done and maybe some custom higher compression pistons with new rings and bearings and such, but i'm not sure if it can be rebuilt properly due to those copper rings... What do you guys think?