Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Kostamojen

Members
  • Posts

    1654
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Kostamojen

  1. The weber will be easier to plug in than with the 1600 (not as many wierd vacuum lines to deal with) I'm going to use a 1400 intake manifold for my 1100 so I can use the weber, but I wont have it running any time soon to see how well it works...
  2. Here is actually 1 page of scans from one of the brochures I touched up for posting...
  3. Scanning and posting images takes me like 100x longer than posting photos from my camera... If I ever have a couple weeks where I don't have a job and nothing else to do, ill get back to you about that...
  4. You mean the service manuals or the brochures? My ff-1 service manuals are technically "on loan"... I'm kind of looking to find my own pair. The 1300 and 1600 manuals I just bought on Ebay for extra info for this build in case I need it.
  5. So, I've been picking up a few things here or there online... Most of the new ff-1 documents are courtesy McBrat The intake manifold is courtesy fishnidiot And the Weber carb is courtesy Jibs
  6. Ill could use the water crossover pipe and crank pulley off of one that isnt in good shape :-p
  7. Ya, thats your manifold, and thats not even close to being 100% cleaned yet :-p I'm still deciding on whether to have it thermal coated as well!
  8. Damn it, if it wasnt for that flywheel connection point on the crankshaft, I could get the cam out without spliting the block
  9. Day 12 I got the engine out today courtesy maudsland's suggestion! Lets just say, lots of grease everywhere, I NEED a hot tank badly!!! Ill see if I can get one tomorrow... I disassembled most of the engine as well. The shortblock is TINY! Its even quite a bit smaller than the EA71 from my old wagon... The pistons are small as well as you can see. As for the cylinder heads, they will need some work for better flow... They need port matching to the EA63 intake manifold I have, plus could use some exhaust port work. It MAY be possible to run larger valves too, but i'm not sure whats involved with that. Anyway, enough talk, here are the pics...
  10. Ill try jacking up the engine and see how that goes. Thanks for the tip, I was thinking a bent wrench would work but don't really have a good way of making one. Jacking it up should work for now.
  11. Thats a possibility, but i'd also have to unbolt the steering column and still unbolt the brake lines/e-brake, etc.
  12. Well I went to remove the engine from the car today (but not the transmission, still has the brake lines/e-brake/axles/etc. connected) and it turns out the bottom engine-transmission bolts are blocked by the inboard brakes I'll have to remove it as one unit, or figure out a way to move the engine enough to unbolt it...
  13. Question regarding this... Does anyone know where to get a cheap remaned electronic distributor (the FWD one everyone says is an upgrade) from? I picked one up from pick'n'pull but its not in the best of shape...
  14. Day 11: Been a little while since my last update, expect less frequent updates during the winter... Anyway, I got the wiring harness completely removed from the car now. I also removed the radiators and the support, and started working on prep to remove the engine/transmission. I also picked up a couple parts I plan on using for the engine and have some comparison photos here for you... One item I got was the 32/36 Weber Carburetor I just got from Jibs, and also an intake manifold from an EA63 (courtesy fisnindiot) which fits the same as the current intake manifold but with more flow (both air AND coolant flow) and is capable of running the Weber carburetor due to the bolt pattern (which is smaller on the EA61 intake manifold as I found out). Enough talk, here are the photos:
  15. What bushings are these??? I could REALLY use them if they are what I think they are... http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f53992206 http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/97929185
  16. Day 10: Ive been having issues with dealing with the body rust, so excuse the funky looking drawing on the car and paint splotches... Anyway, after spending two weekends in a row grinding and painting, I decided to do interior work today instead. I removed the dash as you can see, along with the inner door panels and started removing much of the wiring harness. From this point on, the car won't be driveable, so I turned it around so I can get an engine lift in there when the time comes. I also have all the trim off now, along with the fenders... The good news: After removing the rotted foam and vinyl from the dash, it turns out to have a pretty decent piece of metal in there. I've decided to use that dash setup and build around it, I may keep the original gauge cluster as well unless I can find a better one. I will add a tach and a few other things though. The bad news: This rust is a pain in the rump roast I will need to get it to the sand blaster as soon as possible and get it in the garage out of the weather... Here are the pics from today:
  17. Does anyone know the legality of removing an Odometer from a car like this? I have it currently registered as a non-accurate Odometer (actually the Junkyard did that, but its true since I dont know if this car has 80k miles, 180k miles, 280k miles, or more...) but I dont know what law says about not even having an odometer at all...
  18. No replacement yet for the glass, but thats really the least of my concerns at this point... I definatly plan on heading several places when this is finished, including Almanor
  19. Awesome, I might have to take you up on that (and yes, I do have the wiring diagrams )
×
×
  • Create New...