Kostamojen
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Posts posted by Kostamojen
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Hi. That alternator looks like the same one that I have on my 91 Loyale SPFi ea-82. From looking at mine it would be the thicker wire(your yellow) would be BW and the thinner wire (your green) would be WR. Great job on your FF1 btw. Can't wait to see the final on it. Been a faithful reader of your thread since the beginning. Don
I'm fairly certain you are correct.
I think my one concern right now is whether the white wire (BAT) needs to cross over to the Yellow or Green (BW or WR) at any point...
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This is close to what my wiring harness was originally like. Note the white/red and black/white wires going from the voltage regulator to the rest of the car:
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From that article, the b/w wire should go to the S (yellow) and the r/w wire should go to the L, correct?
One thing I'm confused about, is if the BAT wire has to connect with the other two wires at any point. before the fuse box.
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Well I THOUGHT I had the wiring gremlins worked out... Now the wipers aren't working
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So the odometer goes up but the speedo doesn't move? Hmm. I think maybe there is a spring or something that turns the speedo.
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Ya, you are right, it is a Hitachi. Came in a Bosch box though
Sorry about the confusion.Bosch AL241X
is the part number that was on the alternator before I took the sticker off. Trying to figure out which hitachi it should be...
It is a 60 amp.
http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/alternator/subaru/standard.html
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Sorted out my wiring gremlins for the lights today
I traced back all of the wires for all the lights, and everything appeared to be connected correctly but I re-connected everything just to be certain and tested the wires for resistance and everything was good.
When I had the key switch wires plugged in before, apparently that was a mistake, they shouldn't have been plugged in AT ALL according to the wiring that I traced. So running it like that it works fine.
As for the front corner light, turns out the connecter did need some help. I cleaned it up a bit, fixed the ground contact, and added some dialectic grease and it works perfect now.
I'm still not certain about the alternator wiring... I think its wrong, but nobody seems to know enough to help.
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Its a mechanical speedo, so you might want to check your speedo cable.
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The voltage regulator is a gold box, its in the engine bay. It connects to the alternator and the wiring harness.
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Does anyone at least have a wiring diagram for a internally regulated alternator car that I can look at?
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Ya, the ebay ones aren't as good, BUT I found the actual SPAL fans on ebay for like half the price of Spal's website
That fitting for the radiator, where can I get it?
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These older cars have much more play in the shifter than a modern car. And reverse is always hard to get into on pretty much any Subaru.
That being said, its probably a bushing or spring or something thats gone awry. Its probably fixable.
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OK, I'll skip the harness's then.
I figured two fans to be safe since it does get hot here, its actually more like 1.5 fans due to the size of the fans. Its also a small radiator too. And there is no room in the front at all, the grill is like an inch away from the radiator and the valence will be even closer.
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Alright, I made some templates using the fan size diagrams from the SPAL website (for example, this is for the 7.5" low profile fan: http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30100394_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH ). I picked SPAL cause they have the thinnest fans I could find at just about 2" exactly.
I took some pre-measurements to see how much room I had on the radiator, and decided to make templates for the 9" and 7.5" SPAL fans. Here are the results:
I think they will BOTH fit. The 7.5" is small enough to actually go above the water pump which sticks out so much, so that won't be a problem. And in this photo, I don't have the bottom brackets made yet so its not mounted 100% and actually the bottom of the radiator will be slightly farther from the engine so there will be even more room.
Now my question is, should I get the SPAL wiring harness to go along with the fan? There are several options, and I'm not sure what to get. Also note the fans and accessories are MUCH cheaper on Ebay than on their actual website.
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Jackson Rally's care is insane. Its got a ton of custom frame tubing with a crazy suspension setup. He also does a ton of other rally builds and even old school builds too.
Distorto has a clean build, and he uses it too so its not like its a garage queen. Its not as hardcore as other cars, but its something anyone could do with they're late model subaru using his build as a guide.
I'm glad to see a few people from here make it to the second round, I suspect at least one or two will make it into the final
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OK, here is my wiring for reference. Engine harness:
You can see the wire I connected to the key switch, it has the blue tab thingy that splices into wires, its connected just above the big connector. I used that wire cause thats where the dome wire was connected before I cut it:
Also, had a package show up today I was expecting
Brand new 72-74 radiator courtesy Danny! Looks like its going to fit nicely too:
Note: Its hanging about 2 inches lower than I'm going to mount it, so the radiator outlet on the bottom has more room than it shows here. And if there isn't enough room, there is that overflow bottle holder tab that I can remove to get another 1.5" of space.
The fan, I'm more concerned about...
I don't think I can use the EA81 fan. I think I have to get a thin 10" fan and mount it flush to the radiator not to the brackets on the top/bottom. Those brackets stick out about another 1/2" from the radiator itself which gives me a bunch less room.
Anyway, I'll work on getting it mounted these next couple days, worry about the wiring after thats done and I know which fan I'm going to use.
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I've only got two grounds that I can see excluding the negative terminal ground and excluding grounds for individual lights (like the rear tail lights). I adjusted those to better positions, no change.
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I'm not even sure where the ground is for these lights...
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Well, that didn't work... I'm not even sure I wired it right.
There are the two corner lights, each one with two connectors, but the driver side has 2 wires feeding one connector. I basically just took that spot routed a wire to the passenger light, then took the other connector from the passenger light and routed that back to the driver side.
The light came on, but dimly like before, and didn't blink with the hazards on same as before.
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Thats a good idea, I'll try that right now!
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Well I can't figure out the issue with the corner lights. I swapped the connectors and its not those, its something to do with the wiring. The passenger side is much more dim than the driver side. I inspected the wires and I can't see anything wrong.
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I took apart the harness and inspected for bad connections. Found a couple, replaced them, and re-routed things to figure out lengths.
There might be an issue between the front driver and front passenger corner lights, so I think I'll un-wrap everything and inspect that to be sure...
But the problem with the lights going on with they key in the ignition is something I did for sure. There was a wire that went to the interior lights on a separate strand of lights from the main or rear harness. I traced everything and figured out those wires went into the black wire on the key switch so I taped it and basically completed the circuit I guess. I used the wiring diagram to figure that out.
But now, if I take that wire and plug it into the key wire bypassing the key switch, those corner lights and tail lights come on without the key even in the ignition. So basically thats a live wire (don't know the correct term) that I connected to and I presume I have to find another wire to connect to.
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OK, so I was fiddling with the car again and discovered something.
If I put the key in the ignition, the side marker lights and tail lights all come on. Also, the front right corner light works too when I do this.
I think I screwed up something trying to remove the interior dome light and door switch and I'm not sure how to fix it. It has to do with the key ignition switch since thats obviously whats completing the circuit I guess.
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As far as I know, yes. The only thing I don't have plugged in is the power socket (lighter).
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
While my wiring progress has ground to a halt, I got my rear trans mount and lower radiator mounts all built
I'm currently painting them, so in a few days I can assemble the entire front of the car 100%!
Rear trans mount. Had the upper bracket welded by a neighbor. Doesn't look like much, but it doesn't need to, its hidden way behind the transmission under the car: