Kostamojen

Having that MAF in your intake on your '94 makes it a bit harder to fab a snorkel I would think... You might have to get some 3" tubing and some silcone connectors and try to route it closer to the firewall then have it go up either through a hole in the hood or through the firewall up the side of the window through the cowl area.

Ya, I have all the diagrams for that, but I dont know specifically how I need to connect the wire to the ignition, IE what connectors to use, where to disconnect it at, etc. I dont have any wiring experience its the one area I have Zero training in...

Need to run premium for sure with that. If its an older 2.2, the heads are virtually the same in terms of design, its just the compression chamber thats different.

Gonna bump this... Is the VTD in the WRX (4.11) and Baja (4.44) 4EAT's an advantage? How about the new 5EAT's with VTD?

Scroll down: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=837041

The headliner and rear seats hold up well in these cars if not abused... My rear seat is perfect, as is the headliner. Clean body is hard to find, but I see some nasty rust you will have to deal with Not as bad as mine, but close. Is there rust around the roof rack?

Does anyone have any photos of what connection to use from the ignition, and maybe how to connect it properly for a Tachometer? I can do the wire to the coil and to the ground fine, but this ignition one worries me...

I had the same problem when I installed new doors on my car a week or so ago... The new front doors had the "higher" side moulding, and one of them didnt even have the moulding... So I just used a chisel and took them all off and bondoed the holes.

Nevermind, I got a carb from the junkyard that runs perfectly The idle screw isnt all corroded out on the inside of the throttle on this on. I dont think ill even need a rebuild

Alright, well I pulled a carb from a 77 wagon at pick n pull I found... And now its running and running quite well I definatly think the throttle/idle screw had something to do with it, because now its adjusting properly and idles VERY low I should have it smoged shortly!

Is it me or are the side mouldings different on each side?

They arent made anymore, I tried to buy one just a couple weeks ago

Theres a 70's DL wagon at the JY with an automatic... Will that carb be ok to use?

Emailed you.

I'm curious, im trying to contact Roo-Builders for some carb/throttle work on my '78, but I havent had any responce. Are they on vacation or something, if anyone knows?

No responce yet from roo builders... Does anyone have a spare throttle assembly that isnt degraded around the idle screw hole?

Tourquoise is an aweful color! Besides, they needed painting, and im going for a Yellow/Black/Blue look, perhaps with rally decals and such later on. Although If I end up spending my paint money on the carb (I was going to Maaco it that blue color like on the front, because the spray-painting turned out so crappy) I might just go with a flat black mad max look...

I also added some pics to my wagon photo collection showing my progress: http://community.webshots.com/album/166896604vSrMWC (2nd page)

Ok, heres a pic: http://community.webshots.com/photo/166896604/435176004chIDgj BTW, I do have an FSM, along with Chiltons and Haynes... Its got about everything covered, along with this forum.

I might have possibly found the exact problem... The idle screw, on the inside of the throttle, theres alot of corrosive wear where the tip comes out into the throttle area. There looks like possibly there is a gap between the needle and that space, which I would think would allow fuel to seep in no matter how the needle is turned. I can try to take a pic...

I dont have a tach (its not installed yet, I just bought it last week) and I wont have acess to any shops since well the car isnt going anywhere other than my backyard anymore until I can get it to at least run close to properly... I just took the Carb off after noticing that the two bolts under the float area were leaking. Theres definatly an issue with the carb, ive eliminated everything else as being a cause (checked vacumes, timing, etc.). I'm contacting Roo builders to see what they say... Ya, I need to go to pick n pull again to look for rear disk brakes and maybe that disty. But I'm not sure I want to spend more money on that til I can get it smoged, because if it wont smog I'm going to have to get rid of it... (I wish it was a 75 or older car or I wouldnt even have to worry about smog...)

BTW, yes I am using a timing gun.

Thats a good idea, shouldnt be expensive either... Ill give it a shot. I'll pull it out and see if something is wrong with it first...

Um, what?

Ok, I think I found the problem or at least the result of the problem... I went to check the Idle air/fuel screw, and it was way too far up. So I tighted it down all the way then up to the 1.5 rotations as suggested. I ran the car, and it was still rich, so then I tighted it... And tightented it... until it was TOTALLY tighted, and it still ran rather than stalling out... Its obvious that that screw isnt doing what its supposted to be doing or fuel is getting in there from elsewhere... Suggestions? Ideas?