Kostamojen

Awesome! I've got the clutch all connected now, and that clip was the only thing holding me back from connecting the throttle to the carb. I think I'm getting close to time to start wiring everything.

Quarter Inch (1/4") for where the clip clips on. I don't know the size of the clip in general though, never even saw one.

Woot! PM sent

Does anyone have the clip for the throttle cable from any of the 70's Subaru's? The brand new throttle cable I have which fits perfect doesn't have the clip, and the original throttle cable was different with this car. Nobody seems to have the correct sized clip! Its kind of like a brake line clip, but smaller...

Got a little ahead of myself again A few parts are actually installed permanently, like the water pump, intake manifold, alternator brackets, etc. Don't have the distributor on 100% yet but I wanted to check the plug wires and how they lay out among other things. Oh and ignore the squished oil filter, thats just for break-in.

Luckily there is a shorter air filter, which means I can still use the box and only have to spend like $10 on a new filter. The velocity stacks though, either ditch them entirely or find some super short ones...

A bit closer yes, but the amount of problems that constantly pop up and have to be solved slows everything down... For example, I just discovered the air box I bought doesn't clear the hood :-\ This means I have to ditch the velocity stacks under it too since even with JUST those on, they are only like 1/2" from the hood... Small problems like that keep stacking up. I still have to build a rear transmission mount as well, but that might not be TOO difficult if I do it right.

Drivetrain is now in the car!!! Special thanks to Adam for letting me borrow (with a small payment ) his almost-new Harbor Freight engine lift!!!

UPS ships up to 150lbs I know this for a fact, I used to ship out/receive shortblocks at work. They were just under 150lbs. Commercial only rule maybe?

*twiddles thumbs*

Alright, I installed the modified bellhousing and that extra 3mm made a difference. I tested it out, and the clutch does disengage now when you pull the fork back really hard (before I pulled it back full strength and absolutely nothing happened). I installed the 1100 bellhousing and set the 1100 flywheel on there (cant bolt it down cause of the bolt patten) and instantly could tell for some reason the 1400 flywheel and bellhousing has the flywheel sitting more "recessed" into the bellhousing. So I checked the other modified bellhousing, and it almost matched up to the 1100 (not perfect, but within a mm or so). Its as good as its going to get now for sure... So the question is, who wants to help me install the drivetrain?

Neutral doesn't spin, 1rst gear spins, reverse spins. Right now, I've taken the bellhousing off and I'm testing all my configurations of flywheels and bellhousings to see if there is a clearance difference, and there does appear to be one... I'm going to try one more thing, which is using the modified bellhousing that is about 3mm shorter than the one I had on the car (the 1400) and see if maybe it gets more pressure from the clutch fork. From my measurements, the throwout bearing had about 1cm before it comes into contact with the pressure plate springs, I don't know if that is correct or not.

Spinning with the crankshaft. I'm not sure its disengaging the clutch disc, thats my problem.

OK, I checked the pressure plate and its the same as the old pressure plates... Installs the same, acts the same, can't see a problem there. I can't tell whats going on :-\

I double checked my "custom" clutch disc, its the same thickness as the factory new one I have, so thats not a problem. But for some reason when I disengage the clutch, everything still spins. This is while the drivetrain is off the car. I double checked the clutch fork, its fine. The thing I'm concerned with is the clutch pressure plate seems too compress a lot when installed. Is it supposed to do that? How far should the pressure plate "leaves" go down when its installed?

Just got the flywheel bolts! Thanks again Mark!!! But I have one question, how do I test whether or not the clutch is disengaging properly?

Probably a bad master cylinder, seems to be the usual suspect for these early scoobs. Thank god for the front E-brake though... 3rd gear is going to be a problem. Is it a 4 or 5 speed? I have a spare seat of gears sitting in my shed if its a 4-speed.

OK good, they should be the same then.

Buy one of these: Then you can use ANY of the normal round holley-type air cleaners you desire.

I went to 4 different places, finally wound up at a place that had more metric bolts than I've ever seen in my entire life... Isles and isles of them! And still no 9mm bolts... :-\

Let me see if I can find something locally first. I'd REALLY like to get the drivetrain installed this weekend, but if I can't, I guess I'll have to use those. BTW, what size are the bolts? IE bolt head size.

FUuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu Now that my washers arrived (thanks again Mark) I went to bolt on the flywheel, but now I realize I'm MISSING two bolts for the flywheel because the 1100 only had 6 bolts and I never got bolts for this 1400 flywheel! The worst part? Its a 9mm x 1.00 pitch bolt, which apparently nobody carries

I checked the bearing number, nothing matches it (searched the internet). But ya, they are still available via Subaru. Just ordered one, will be here Saturday

Or... I could buy one from the dealership. Just called them, they are still available! WOOT! Should be here saturday

Ya, its been pretty depressing :-\ If I would have sent RenaissanceMan the 1100 bellhousing instead of the 1400 bellhousing when I had him modify it, and if I would have gotten the 1300 flywheel off the wrecked FF-1 that I forget who got a bunch of parts for me from, then I would have been OK through all of this... No luck so far on finding a "new" EA71 fat-case pilot bearing though, they appear to be discontinued via Napa and the aftermarket stuff. Going to have to try the dealer tomorrow...