Mike_N_Austin

I am looking for the Web Address for an OEM parts dealer in the US. I dealt with one in Cali in the past, but have lost thier contact info Thanks in Advance !!

HA ! OK...it is definitely staying on

Last Update...and great end to the story Codes did not come back...and the car passed emissions. I have a new inspection sticker. Now...I am considering disconnecting the new Knock sensor because I had much better acceleration when I was getting the ODB fault codes :cool:

Correction to my last update I accidentally disconnected a vacuum hose the other night when I was adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor. I re-connected this hose last night and now the MAP sensor fault is apparantly gone Drove the car 45 miles on this mornings commute....and so far no codes Will see what happens at lunch. But, at this point, looks like knock sensor was the culprit.

:mad: AAARRRGGGGHHHH Check Engine light came back on. Ran the codes at Autozone. Now the MAP sensor is coming back faulty. No O2 or misfire codes...yet....so at least those may have fallen off. But...MAP sensor is a $ 200 part. Questions for the experts: (1) Can the MAP sensor be cleaned ? (2) Will outer Barometric (Sp?) pressure impact the readings of the MAP sensor ? We are having some wicked weather in central Texas today...so I am holding out hope that maybe this is possibly causing the issue ? (Or is that a nerf bat statements ?)

UPDATE The Knock Sensor is in. Took it for a test drive and the "knocking" has definitely gone away at high RPM. So I am 99% confident that the original sensor was malfunctioning. I disconnected the positive battery cable. Will let it sit 3-4 hours to reset the computer. Please Please Please.....I hope the check engine light stays off

If you install the tail light harness hookups....make sure and go OEM I had an aftermarket cable hookup installed at U-Haul...and it fried nearly all of my electronics. My CD system, internal cab lights, and cruise control have not worked since :banghead:

Good news....I did fix the loping idle. I cleaned and adjusted the "alignment" of the Throttle Position sensor. My car used to have a very eratic and loping idle.....would bounce between 500 and 1,000 RPM. It was very annoying. Now the car pegs at 750 RPM and idles like new. I removed the TPS and cleaned thoroughly with throttle body cleaner. But when I first re-installed it back into the car and took for a test drive, the car ran very rough...almost like I was getting severe mis-fires and backfires. I then "advanced" the alignment of the TPS all the way to the other side.....and the car ran better....but would stay locked at high RPM. Specifically, if I put it in second gear and ran it up to 3,500 RPM and then I changed into 3rd gear, the RPM would stay pegged at 3,500, instead of quickly dropping during gear change. So I then reset the "alignment" of the TPS to center and it ran much better, and idled much better. So I am not sure if it was the cleaning, or the realignment or both....that has fixed my idle problem. But...if you are having a loping idle...I definitely recommend cleaning and adjustment to the TPS. (Throttle Position Sensor) The car ran better than I remember it ever running. I seem to have more power and acceleration. I am hearing a lot of "knocks" and "pings" at high RPM....so I am hoping that the Knock sensor will improve the performance even further.....and allow me pass inspection

Ok..so what is the story on this seafoam stuff ?

Ok...you can put the nerf bat away. I bought the part....and Jaimie says high.

Ok...calling on the part now

LOL But I was told here and other places to inspect for cracks. There were no cracks. I have also read and heard that just because you get a fault code on a part it does not necessarily mean that that particular part is actually failing. The code could be an effect of another downstream or upstream cause. So I am really leary about throwing money at parts if I don't know for sure that they are faulty. I have done this many times in the past.

Well...I pulled the knock sensor last night and inspected it. There are no cracks in the metal end of the sensor. I cleaned the sensor with throttle body cleaner and I also cleaned the contact point on the block. I then re-installed the sensor. I unhooked the ground battery connection and let it sit overnight. When I started it up this morning..the darn codes were still there....they never cleared. I also removed my idle control sensor and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. I have been having a rough loping idle when in neutral. After cleaning it...and adjusting it....I now have a smooth steatdy idle. I will post this under a new thread for future searches. On the state inspection...I am going to try and get a sticker in a different county. My county is only 1 of a handful in Texas that is holding to the new emission standards

Ok Nipper...a few more questions please First...have you really every used a nerf bat on someone ? Second.....can I clear/reset the ECM by disconnecting the battery overnight ?

YEP ! I just located a post on in the archive that has photo's and everything. This site makes these jobs very easy !!! Thanks for the feedback. I am hoping that the knock sensor clears my issues