FatReggie

Well, the saga is done. I found a reference to S-Wings Automotive (located near Denver Colorado) on another thread. A google search found a website and I asked if they had a kit. Mike seems to be the owner and he let me know about his kit. After some consideration of "shade tree" repairs (that'd be me doing something weird) and the kit I purchased the kit. Suffice it to say if you have this problem you might try tracking down S-Wings. No, I don't work for him or own the place. But the kit saved me a ton of trouble and the Subie runs great! Thanks to everyone on this site for thier input and suggestions. I hope I can return the favor in the future! Ron

Thanks for the input Seawolf. I hope I can work something out so I don't have to pull the crank. If I do, it might be time to decide how much to repalce the engine with a good used one or to find my son another mode of transportation. Yikes!

Howdy members! First, you all have been great! Thanks! Does anyone know the size of the woodruff key used on the crankshaft to align the timing sprocket and the pulley/harmonic balancer? The vehicle is a 95 Legacy with the 2.2 engine. BTW, the vehicle has 254,000 plus miles on it and other than routine maintenance it's been great for my son. He hasn't been so kind to it, three known crunches but none major. He has put the last 75,000 or so on it in the past 4 years so it's past due for the timing belt and related items. Thanks for the input! Ron

The saga continues! Thanks for all of the advice from everyone. The sprocket was rusted on pretty solidly. My puller didn't work (years of abuse finally took their toll, and the threads stripped out) so I had to make one (budget's are tight these days) and I had enough "stuff" (O.K., junk) to make one up. It worked and I got the little bugger loose. The keyway on the crankshaft is chipped out (dang it!) so I will be checking for threads on how to fix or get around this. If you can point me in the right direction for the threads I would appricate it! Again, thanks to all!

Thank you Imdew! I will give that a try. The key broke off and the part that remains is under the sprocket - I can't get to it yet. I will let you know on the pulley and sprocket as well. I want to wait untill I get the sprocket loose to see how much damage there is to the sprocket and I hope there is none to the crankshaft. Shouldn't be, that's what the key is for but the way my luck is going on this one ...

Sorry all, I posted this in the wrong area. I am new so I am sorry if this has been answered elsewhere. I checked but couldn't find an answer. Dealing with replacing a timing belt and the crankshaft pulley (typical issue) BUT it appears 1/2 of the woodruff key broke off, allowing the pulley to wobble. No worries, I will replace it. The question is regarding the woodruff key and the crankshaft "sprocket". Does the woodruff key also align the crankshaft sprocket? How do you remove the crankshaft sprocket? I prefer not to muck it up as well, if at all possible but it doesn't seem to want to come loose. Any tips and/or hints would be much appreciated! Thanks! Ron ZYWEDALL replied: On the EA series engines, the crank pulley doesn't use the key at all -- it's just held on by the big center bolt, and sometimes two alignment dowels that go into holes in the sprocket (but usually not -- so you have to crank the heck out of that center bolt to make sure the pulley doesn't come loose) The sprocket is aligned by the key, and I don't think I've ever taken it off. But... the EJ22 might be different.... You could try posting this in the new generation forum where the EJ series engines belong and see if you get any answers there. TORXXX replied: This is a very common problem with the EJ22's I've fixed prolly 50 or 60 of these in my time. It happens from ppl not tightening down the crank pulley enough. The sprocket you are talking about is what I call the timing gear. the keyway is very important as it aligns the timing gear up in the correct spot so the Crank Angle Sensor has something to read off of. it also lines the crank pulley up also. usually when these things wear, they get slop on one side of the divet but stays straight on the other side. The timing gear will slide off the crank. sometimes they are a lil sticky due to oil/dirt/grime getting on there and it will make it feel like something is holding it on there. I usually put a flat head behind the gear and pry it away from the block. you need to becareful because that aluminum cover behind that gear is the oil pump. you dont want to crack that housing. When you put this back together you should have a new (newish used ) crank pully to put back on and another timing gear if the slot where the keyway rides is worn at all. The Keyway usually wont break (stainless steel iirc) it is only a half moon piece that will eat the crank and the pulley way before it will actually break its self. Can you get me some pictures of this if it did break the keyway (never seen it happen) When you are all done and going to torq down the crank pulley bolt, put some red locktite on there and tighten it down as much as you can using a 2 foot breaker bar. I replied: Zyewdall, thanks for the input. I tried to change the post after I noted it in the “classics” section (yes, I believe the older Subaru’s are classics and wish I had one – maybe someday). Torxxx, I don’t know how you found the thread but thank you very much for the information! I will use penetrating spray lube to lubricate the heck out of the keyway and the bit of key that I can see and see if I can work it loose. Any further suggestions would be greatly appricated and thank you from a newbie!