LucasP

The spfi manifold makes more power in the fuel injected engines because of the superior fuel delivery not the intake design. At least that's what I suspect. For example the 360 in my jeep... I went from throttle body injection to multi point. Much better power and mileage because of the better delivery system not the intake. I think guys probably do it because in theory it would make better power. I'm sure it does flow much better, but it's probably so negligible with the stock heads. And granted that's just my thoughts. I love you trike and if I had the time I would try the intake on my car just to see. Tinkering is fun. It's not an old Subaru if you aren't working on it. Lol.

I've been reading through this whole thing with a ton of interest. I'm always having my own webber experiments on my ea82. Loyal has helped me a bunch with all his info on the subject. I can't help but think that your intake manifold is really a mute point in the whole thing. The issues with the ea engines is that the heads don't flow. All the manifold work in the world isn't going to help much if you can't get that air in and out efficiently. Most of my experience is with aircraft carbs tho.

I'be been in the market for new tires for a couple weeks. I currently have 195/75 r14s on the old girl... 87 sedan lifted 2 inches. I'm normally not indecisive but I have no idea what I want to do, but the more research I do the more wishy washy I get. So I'm finally turning to Subaru guys for help. I like my 195/75s. I think they fit well with the car and lift. I'm normally not a narrow tire guy but the car spends most of its time on pavement so the narrower footprint helps with gas a bit. They came with the rims so that's why I have that size. If I get another set in this size I'll probably get the bfg all terrains. They are really the only decent tire in this size. I don't need a lot of beef in a tire for this car but I've had good luck with the set of 37/ 12.5s I use as my street tires for my jeep. 205/ 75r14... I really like the extra bit of height, but not stoked on the width for the reasons mentioned above. Seems like most guys are running 205s, but I haven't come across any decent tires that get me excited for new tires. I think they would be a better all around size for the car. Then there is the idea of stepping up to 27s. I'll say I don't need that much tire, but I was also happy with 35s on the jeep at one time too. I can get the generals in a 27 for less than the bfgs in a 195. 27s look so bad rump roast, but I can't get past that I don't actually need them. Lol. Any feedback or ideas I so very welcomed. What are you running around on tire wise and how do you like them?

Loyale... Before you got the legacy shaft, how much did you add to the stock one when you lengthened it? I love how detailed your threads are, but I didn't see you mention it anywhere.

I'm going to start working on my front bumper in a couple days. I'll post pics when I get it built.

In the airplane world is most about fuel efficiency. On the smaller cheaper single engine airplanes ( any Cessna 100 series, piper single engine) they don't have any gear reduction for the prop so the tip speed of the prop is a huge issue. The 172 I fly regularly has a prop governor that controls the prop pitch. Prop pitch is used to control rpm more than the throttle.

No airplane engine ever has cruised at 6k rpm. It is so rare to ever get a propeller driven engine above 2800 rpm. The never exceed rpm on most single engine Cessnas is 2900 rpm. The little experimentals that people are putting ea's in certainly don't turn 6k.

That sucks man. After a couple you get pretty quick. I started one yesterday at about 9pm and was done by 10. I used to reboot the axles on my old 83 wagon. But on my 87 I just go buy the new ones with the lifetime warranty and swap them out when my boots get worn or they start making noises.

Thanks guys! I appreciate all the nice words. Still kinda kicking rocks around in my head about how I want to do the front one. I have people stop me about it all the time now. Lol.

Almost sounds like you don't have enough fuel pressure... I have an adjustable fuel regulator. A friend thought it would be funny to turn it down to 1psi and didn't tell me. Well at 2800 rpm while accelerating the car would just fall on its face and stutter along until I let of the gas. But I could drive around slow all I wanted. Might check your fuel pressure.

ADDED THE FRONT BUMPER TO MATCH! I recently relocated after graduating and am temporarily down to just my 87 gl sedan and my 07 sti sedan. My girlfriend wouldn't be caught dead driving the 87 so for now its my main squeeze. I've been getting irritated that I haven't been able to use my hitch mounted bike rack or haul around my little moto trailer, so a few days ago I got bored and built a rear bumper. I decided to use 3/16 wall 2x2 steel and 1/4 inch plate for the sides and attach points to the car. I have a tube bender, but decided that since the car is pretty square, square tube would compliment the car well and provide a subtle look. And frankly I have done plenty of tig welding but haven't spent much time with a mig so the square would be easier to work with . I wanted the overall height of the bumper to be 6 inches, so I notched the top stick of 2x a bit so the receiver would fit in the allowed 2 inch space ( picture 1 and 2). Got ahead of myself and tacked the receiver on with the pin hole going vertical so that was my one big mistake lol. I cut a couple of 4x6 pieces and drilled 7/16 holes so the bumper could use the existing holes that the stock bumper used. I welded a couple pieces of 1/4 in wall 2x2 cut to 2 inches together and then welded them centered up on the 4x6 plate. The 2x2x2 pieces would fit right between the gaps allowing me plenty of room to weld them to the bumper and have the bumper centered. Got the bulk welded up. Was finishing some of the harder to reach welds ( picture 4). Got the bumper bolted up cut the angles for the side plates and welded them on. They aren't perfect but they are pretty close to being even all the way around. The bumper sits nice and tight to the car. There is a 1/2 inch gap from the top of the bumper to the body line on the car. In ( picture 5) the side plates look a little off, the bumper isn't fully bolted up so its a bit crooked looking. After about 6 hours she was all bolted on with most of the visible welds ground down to be flush ( picture 5) The next day I removed the bumper and sprayed it with a couple of coats of nice and durable... and expensive Imron black. Spent a few minutes to mount the light and the plate and she was done (picture 6). Overall I'm pretty damn happy with how it turned out. Nothing real fancy, and I wouldn't hook to it to pull someone out but for what I wanted I think it turned out well. You can see half inch holes drilled in the 2x2x2 blocks that hook the bumper to the car... I fabbed up some mounts to attach my high lift just above the receiver.

Sweet thanks, those differ a bit from what loyale runs in his bumblebeast. I like your numbers because youre based in Oregon, I'm now down in Medford. What kind of mileage do you get and how would you say it runs with the jets youre running?

I ordered my throttle cable, should be here Wednesday. Loyale: what jet sizes are you running in your weber, or what sizes to people generally run? I got the carb second had and never put any thought into what jets it had in it. I need to pull them and see what I got. It has always seemed to run a little rich but I've never had the time to really dig into the car because I was in school.

Its a 32/36. Its really stumping me. Took it all apart this morning and didn't find any play or grit anywhere. Im really starting to believe its the cable. I kicked down just fine when it was running without the cable attached. I guess 28 years on the stock cable isn't that bad. I actually like the second spring. The pedal has a much stiffer feel, probably a placebo effect but I feel like I'm using less throttle.

This last week has been big for the silver slayer... 87 gl sedan with a weber and 2 inch lift. Finally did the engine drop so I would stop ruining axles as fast. Installed new front axles New crank seal and cam seals New plugs, cap and rotor Got the big tires on and did the 6 lug conversion Yesterday I got to be a roadside mechanic when the crank pulley bolt backed out and I had to fix it on the side of the freeway Next is getting he steel and welding up a rear bumper. I want to have a 2 inch receiver in the rear bumper so I can haul around my little garbage trailer, moto trailer and I want to be able to use my hitch bike rack.

I do have a throttle return spring. Two actually I added a second one thinking that the one on the carb was getting weak. The cable routing is good. I made up a bracket to align the cable coming into the carb, and machined a whole new throttle linkage... one of the perks of working for a company that has to make anything we replace on helicopters. I guess I'll remove the cable, check the butterflys and smoothness of operation. I didn't think about a frayed cable, I'm sure its the original cable. I may just pick a new one up.

My 87 gl sedan that has been weberized is all of a sudden having some issues that for the life of me I can't figure out. The carb has been on about two years now. But for about the last two weeks after the car is warm when ever I push the clutch in the idle will rise and stay anywhere from 1600 to 2500 rpm, and won't kick down. At about the same time the car started dieseling when I shut it off. I'm accounting the dieseling to the idle issue. I tore the carb apart, and cleaned it all out and re assembled, still having the same issue. After that I figured out that if I put my toe under my gas pedal I can kick the idle down to its normal idle most of the time, some times it will go down and then rise again. So I thought, throttle cable issue, lubed the cable and made sure it wasn't binding or anything, and the return spring is in place. Still having the same issue. So now I'm stumped and kinda frustrated. I will say that I have my carb mounted backwards, the throttle linkage is on the driver side. I bought the carb second hand and didn't have a choke for it. I've wondered if that was the issue but its been great for two damn years. Looking for input or ideas...

I finally just did a 2 inch on my webered 87 sedan, and I love it. But some questions arose when I got to looking a sway bar angles and what not. Has anybody done extensions to keep their stock sway at angle on the front? Ive never read anything about it, but it the truck world you don't lift anything without extensions. Secondly when you guys are wheeling are people keeping the sway bar hooked up or have someone rigged up disconnects to help with articulation and get a bit more travel? Thanks in advance for any responses.

So my good friend finally bought a subaru. We drove up in my jeep and picked up his 90 Loyal wagon on sunday. It needs some work but is pretty rust free and has a straight body. Not too bad of a pick up for 500 bucks. He will be needing tires pretty soon so it got me thinking about the 6 bolt conversion for my 87 sedan. I plan on selling him my tires and rims for cheap, so I'm in the market for new tires and rims. I have no questions about the actual conversion, but more what people prefer in rim size when they do change over. Obviously there are many more options when going to a 15 inch rim. But after looking around a bit it seems that there are plenty of available tires for a 14 inch rim. As of right now my sedan is stock height, but I do have a 2 inch lift made for it, but I'm not sure I want to lift it yet. So I'll probably go with something just a bit bigger than stock... like a 195/ 70 r14 for the time being until I want to drop coin on new tires. But even when its lifted I don't see myself ever going over 27. I've never really dealt with tires and rims this small. So what are the pros and cons as far as 14's vs 15's? And a couple pics my buddy billy and his new ride while dragging it home.

This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for confirming what I had been thinking. Hopefully well will get his car home and post some pics of it here for everyone to enjoy.

Sorry guys. Mine is an 87. The one needing the pump is a 90.

Anybody know if its actually a different pump than a non fuel injected ea82?

So my good buddy is about to join the cult we call subaru owners. If all goes well he will be the proud owner of an 87 wagon on sunday. The car is in good shape inside and out, minus the bad fuel pump. I'm not worried about it running, I know its a strong runner, the guy just decided he didnt want his teenage daughter driving something so old and the pump went out after the last time I was up to look at it. My problem is, I have never changed a pump on an ea82 with fuel injection. All of mine have been webberized. We will be picking up the car about about dark and will need to swap a new pump in or tow it home with my 87... Lets say I'd rather not tow it the 55 miles home, and this is really our only chance to get him this car with our work schedules. So my questions are... Do I need to know anything special about ea82 with FI fuel pumps? Do these things have pressurized lines like most fuel injected cars? Am I going to need any real special tools? I'm more than capable of changing a pump... I have one term left on my way to being a helicopter mechanic. I just don't want any surprises when trying to get this done in a semi time frame 55 miles from home. Thanks guys.

I also removed the power steering and replaced with a manual rack, and it has an optima battery out of my grand cherokee right now.

I'm from medford, now live in eugene while I go to school. My 87 sedan is sporting a weber, accel coil, accel wires, full two inch exhaust from then engine back without cats and a magnaflow muffler. I got bored at school one day and fabbed up a k&n round filter to work with the webber.