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Wife's 2016 limited picked up another nail, in a non repairable spot on the tire. They recommended replacing two with new, and putting them on the back. The question, how sensitive is the CVT and current drivetrain to different tire sizes, like the older systems were? Also is their placement recommendation OK For the Forester and not just a generalization.

Yup, could have saved $80 picking them up with about a 2.5hour round trip and tolls. UPS even put them around the back of the house on the driveway

Finally decided to plunk down some coin for Wheels, tires, TPMS sensors, and also the electronics needed to dump the old TPMS codes and install new ones. Ordered 205-65-16 Blizzak ws-90's, steel wheels, and they installed the Schrader S074 sensors, mounted and balanced, shipped to my door. Well packed for shipping, guess they ship so many they have it down by now. Got them on the other day, fitment was good to the wheel wells, then the fun started. I bought the ATEQ Quick set tool to upload the TPMS codes after downloading Summer wheel codes. After installing the software on the computer, followed the instructions to download codes from ECU for summer sensors. That went fine. Tried to type in the sensor codes that TireRack gave me, software said code to long, or then incorrect format. Tried dropping digits, changing the code from decimal, to Hexidecimal. Nothing worked. Sent a help desk ticket to customer service at ATEQ on the issue. Surprisingly I got a response in less than an hour. They told me there was a know "bug" in the software but they had a back door work around to get it to accept codes. Installed the codes, woke up the sensors, and drove. Light went out and stayed out Just my story, maybe it will help out someone else.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=142795978874&_sacat=0

At the dealership we bought the wife's 2016 Forester they have a technology consultant on staff to help customers with those kind of things. But the positioning of the power seats with the remotes is cool, have to try that this weekend. that way I can drive here car without messing up seat position.

Put the A/F sensor in this am. Refreshing not to have to climb under the car. Used a long extension with a wobble adapter and the O2 sensor socket. With the OEM sensor, even had the holding tyewrap to put into the bracket at the right spot. Now just have to fill the tank, and drive to set the evap readiness.

Thanks I found the re-learn idle procedure yesterday. I also had a posting about it and the needed drive cycle to set readiness, but couldn't find it quickly. Problem with having multiple computers is your never sure where you bookmarked the page. What scanner do you use on Subbies that doesn't blow everything away?

Decided to pick up a code reader from Harbor freight. Got the "deluxe" version, can read live data etc. Hooked it up to the 2008 just to play with it. Cleared the code expecting it to come back. It did. But what also happened was I lost my idle setting So I updated the software, and I'll try it again. Anyone else have this problem with their scanner ?

Local Subbie dealers online price for OEM is the same as Autozone's Denso. Going to buy from Dealer as OEM.

Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the front sensor, correct? Denso the one to buy is is there another brand? I'll check the wiring, but at 128,000 it probably due

Stopped at Autozone after my Lowes run. Code P0031 Bank1 Sensor 1 HO2s Heater control Circuit low voltage. Front O2 Sensor? Still interested in getting the reader issue resolved though.

Yesterday the 2008 Outback 2.5i threw a check engine light. So I got my trusty laptop and licensed full version VCDS (Vag-com) cable and hooked it up to use the generic OBDII reader section. It came back with an error that said "car not ISO/OBDII compliant ???? I have used this setup to read both 97 legacys. On the one I even used it to read O2 sensor voltages real time. Did Subaru change the interface on later cars? Hate to have to buy a stand alone reader.

Replaced switch yesterday. For anyone else, to make it easier, take off the triangle shaped trip piece that hides the mirror mount. Three push pin/posts hold it in place. I nicked the door panel on the lower edge before I removed it.

People will hack anything................ But the last time i'm pretty sure it was the hosting server that needed paid. Just re-upped my donation. Greg

I don't need the master multiple switch power window switch, just the stand alone power door lock switch Went up on the local Subbie dealers web parts page, around $25 after 30% reduction. Unless someone has a used one sitting around collecting dust (Wanted ad posted in parts wanted section)