gregB

This morning after the wife's car sat out in the 17°F night air she got a Tire pressure light on the dash. She added only 2 PSI in two tires and one PSI in another light went out! How sensitive are they, what range are they "programmed" to say is OK. Is there any way to adjust said range? This is second time this has happened, getting a little annoyed. Especially because next year this time it will be mine, after getting her one with fewer miles. Thanks for any input Greg

Last night I started over again. Disconnected the battery. Reconnected the battery. The FSM says to turn the Key to on but do not start for 10-15 seconds. Started car, backed out of garage to put other car in for wife in the am. This morning started and let it idle itself to warm, followed the rest up above and Thanks for the info Greg

No CEL on, tight connections, no hoses near the positive terminal.Came home started up and it was fine. After slight warm-up came up to a stop, Engine almost died from low idle. Bumped into neutral, blipped the pedal came right back up. It is an automatic.The car is also a "drive by wire" throttle system. Local shop thought either it is re-learning or possibly dirty Idle air control valve or MAF? Took a quick look in the shop manual, could not find Idle air control, does the 2008 use that kind of system?

Over the weekend I disconnected the battery on the wifes 2008 2.5i Limited Outback. Was hoping that the "soft reset" would allow the CD changer to unload the 5 stuck CD's. Nope did not work, guess now I have to tear into the dash, bummer. So I cleaned up the positive terminal, reconnected and then started the car, started fine. This morning the wife turned back to the house because the car was low idling, and shutting off. Could the battery being disconnected, have caused saved settings in the ECU to disappear? Where to start? Greg

Today the Legacy's drivers door lock/unlock switch stopped working the lock. It will still unlock, just not lock. Passenger side switch, and the key make it work still. Bad switch? Does the door panel need to come off or can it be pulled with panel in place? Can the contacts be cleaned? Greg

Thanks guys. Got the fuel pump into the passat 4motion yesterday. Now assuming it stays drive Subby is next.

No work, this an extra backup car the son used to drive. I started using it because my Passat's fuel pump died. But i will check the connector before I put the sensor.

Check engine light on. For a couple of weeks. Finally scanned code with VCDS and got: Mode 03: Emission related fault codes Address E1: 1 Fault Found: P0141 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2; Heating Circuit: Malfunction Which O2 sensor is it the upstream or down stream one? thanks Greg

I had taken it to the shop I use. They found the bent road wheel but "nothing" else. So either they quit when they found that, or it is something subtle or odd. If I want to put the front on jackstands to cycle the steering where is a good spot for the stands?

The car is a 97 Legacy Sedan with ~160,000 miles. A bent wheel was found on the front passenger side. I have replaced that , but it still moves the steering wheel some times. Sort of weird though. Some times the steering wheel has no movement at all, but other times the outside edge of the wheel moves almost an inch along the circumference. If the steering wheel is steady and I rock it slightly side to side there is resistance, or it feels notchy. On the bent wheel side also when I go over a rise in the road that takes the weight off the suspension, I heard what I think is a CV joint rattle. Question is could a CV joint going bad cause the weird steering wheel problem, or do I have something else bent under the front end from a curb? impact? Its the kids car and have not really got a good story of how the tire rim got bent in the first place so I am sort of guessing about the curb or pothole impact.

Decided I am not fixing this, no time, space, and too many other projects. Ad is in the for sale forum

Wife drives a 2008 Outback 2.5i. Shop that services noted fluid dark and recommended a flush. Has about 90,000 miles on it right now. I drove it today and did notice some jerks or slips on upshift. Is this a drain and refill fix like the older units, or is a "flush" and refill in order.

Bad at 88,000. Trans are usually robust, and go high miles. What is wrong with it, what is it acting like?.

Had my 2002 2500HD done in Feb this year. Paid the shop for labor and provided the GM pre-bent kit for the lines. Looks like OEM, hopefully it will last longer this go round. Most of the lines were so rusted that pulling on them cracked the tubing

I did put a new radiator cap on it yesterday. With all the other things wrong with it, it is probably destined to be traded out for another car soon anyhow. Just trying to figure out whether to sell it as is or pull the engine to do seals, belts and anything else that it needs.

I think I know the answer, but in a 2.2 transplanted into a 97 Legacy GT, can anything else cause bubbles in the overflow coolant container? Story is it was a junkyard transplanted 2.2, we have put 40,000 or so on the car. The daughter has the car in Turnersville NJ. It was low on oil and low on coolant when i saw it today. Added maybe 1/3 gallon of coolant and burped it out the vent plug in the radiator, level stayed OK after a heat and cool cycle. Top radiator hose hot, so thermostat is working. Both fans are running with the AC on. Supposedly it did not get real hot, she said did not peg the gage, but the needle was well above where it normally runs, before the boyfriend shut it off but ?????

Dogbone still bolted in place to the firewall?

Any concern about alignment issues from the wheel bump?

They opened up a yard in Myerstown, PA under the name of Greble. Probably hit them Saturday to check them out. Its only about an hour, the original is more like 2.5 hrs.

The kid was driving to a job interview, managed to get caught up in a minor hood bender. The Sonata in front of him needed a new bumper cover. The hood got "curled down" in the center, and two small lifts on the outside edges. We straightened the middle support in front of the radiator, luckily it did not hit the radiator. If I want to replace the mica ruby (947 code) hood what years could I be looking for in the pic your own yards? Thanks

Had the rear window replaced by Safelite at my house on my wifes 2008 Outback. A light fixture chain came loose and swung it into the glass shattering it. They did a good professional job, not cheap though. Hers was a bonded glass to steel seal, not sure I'd want to try that, after watching him. Quick car-part.com, shows $100-300. Is there a pick your own nearby, that's probably cheapest, and lets you practice on someone elses car.

The rear windows were the ones that got rained into. I have a downloaded FSM for the 2008, and looked at the pdfs you put up, thanks though. Was hoping for a little wisdom from someone else's work. Looks pretty straight forward, but a royal pain. Its her every day driver, with no real good alternate (unless we buy the Passat 1.8T 4-motion we just looked at!) I bought a mold test kit, to confirm before I start the interior strip. I'll have to start looking for someone local to "demold" the carpet. Thanks Greg

Couple of weeks ago, wife left her windows down an inch during a torrential downpour. The leather came thru OK, but now anytime she is in it she reacts like she has allergies. Probably moldy under the carpet, nothing shows on the surface. Anyone ever pull up the carpet on something this new? Any areas that are easy to break, fasteners or clips? And If I do get to moldy padding, how to treat it? Clorox?

I have used my VAG-COM cable/software to read codes on 97'S and my wifes 2008 outback. Also to check O2 voltages and wave forms. Can look at fuel trims etc. But I have a licensed true VAG-COM cable. I think you can still download the freeware version of software from Ross Tech, no support though. Nothing to loose if you already have a cable. There were a couple of posts here with links to an open source accessing program targeted for Subarus. Links are bookmarked at home though. Edit to Add: Use your favorite search for ROMraider, as mentioned above in Fairtax's post.

Went to visit daughter today. 20 min, knock sensor replaced. Outside was all cracked and corroded. Cleared codes, drove around for 20-25 min, 25-50 mph no returning codes. So far anyhow. Used VAG-COM cable and VCDS to look at O2 voltages. Looked like the numbers that sons 97 sedan had without codes. From what I saw fuel trims did not look that much different also.