impostor

The parking light switch on top of the column got bumped.... Turn it off.

Exactly. No need to 'spend a dollar to make a dime.'

Being a GT, if it still has the hood with the scoop, check the engine to bulkhead wire harness connections. My sister's 97 LGT had a bunch of weird issues and it turned out to be corrosion in one of the connectors. The one with all four ground wires specifically. Hers has 250k+ on the clock, and the rubber terminal insulators have dried out and don't seal well any more. To make matters worse, the hood scoop block off plate has a drain hole that allows water to drip right on the connectors.

At this point, you're far enough into it you might as well go for a full rebuild. That way you'll know for sure everything is ok. Coolant is a terrible lubricant so the condition of the bearings may be questionable. I bought my '80 Brat sight unseen and it turned out to have a blown head gasket, so I replaced them. Very soon after the thrust bearing let go. Every time I pushed the clutch pedal the engine would knock. Wish I would have done a full rebuild the first time I had it out.

The 95 likely had one actual transmission failure and the other two were the installers fault. The cooler lines and cooler probably weren't flushed or replaced and all the debris went right into the new ones.

I have two 93 turbos. A wagon and an automatic sedan. 0/2 on the trannies when I got them. I bought the wagon with a failed pinion shaft bearing. Destroyed both gears and cracked the diff case when it happened. The sedan is a recent purchase and has atf getting in the diff, delays bad in drive, and slips.

Agreed. The guy I work with can weld just about anything I can dream up. He did my AWIC hard lines using stock mounting points. I got the Samco kit new for $160 so I figured it was a time vs cost thing. I was looking at the coffee cup mod again and some pretty atrocious things came up. Very few are cleanly done. I was chatting with Matt a while back and he said you guys have someone that makes them for you?

This is the only decent pic I have of mine, done a couple years ago.

Most of the turbo specific PCV hoses are still available but the plastic pieces are not. You can also still get the Samco induction hose kit which includes the turbo inlet, MAF, and BPV hose for a 92-96 WRX. The turbo inlet ancillary fittings are not quite the same as the legacy, but very close.

At our shop we use the 11044AA642 gasket. The coolant holes match the original N/A ones.

Throw the Autolites away and get NGK's. They're the only plug that should be in a Subaru. I can't tell you how many times a customer brought me a car after their mechanic did a fresh 'tune up' with Autolites.

Take a good look at the wire harness. Critters seem to like the area around the knock sensor and temp sensors. Like GD said, get a cheap scanner to see what the ECM is thinking the temp is, and whether its commanding the fans on or not. Its interesting though that in test mode they still aren't cycling. Make sure the LF fender liner is OK and road grime hasn't been kicked up at the harness inside the fender.

GD, what do you do as far as honing the cylinders for the new rings? Jim

Brett, I have a coupe door from a 77 2 door shell I'm scrapping. Its pretty rusty but if you can do bodywork maybe it can be fixed. Its yours if you want it. I'm in Omaha. Did you happen to go look at that sedan? It's tempting if it doesn't have rust. I have everything to swap in for an automatic.

I did a bunch of searching but didn't really find a solution. Long story short, an STI 6mt seal works great. Part number 806716070. Seal dimensions are 16x26x7. This is to replace anything else that has the NOK seal # AR0677G. I did order a seal from the dealer, part number 806716020 and its dimensions are 16x26x5. I had everything apart already on my 85 Brat and couldn't really afford to have another car disabled at the shop right now, so I got desperate and installed one that looked similar that we had on hand. Jim

Mine always runs around the top line of the normal range, sometimes a tiny bit higher. I haven't checked actual temp with what the gauge says but I have a new temp gauge sender just in case.

Well rest assured that I will do everything in my power to preserve this one for my kids and hopefully their kids! Here's a link to the other one. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-subaru-1400-dl/ My dash only has one crack right down the middle so I intend to have someone better at this type of thing than me take a look at it. If I came across an uncracked one though I would still be interested to have it as a backup. I'm always buying parts for my older Subarus thinking there will be a day that I will need them. I recently (and reluctantly) tossed an 02 wrx dash. The hoarder part of me had a really hard time with that. Thirty years from now I will probably need it when I'm restoring a vintage wrx!

Well, long story short, went through things again, and got it running so quietly that if it weren't for an exhaust leak you wouldn't know it was running! PM me for the long story if you're battling the same problem.

Thanks! This is a different one though. It is the one I asked about a few months ago that came from Idaho. I believe the one you are thinking of is now the same one that is for sale on bring a trailer. I've been a lurker on here for a long time and you seem to be one of the go-to guys for knowledge and parts, so let me know if you're willing to part with anything. The only thing it really could use is some better window weather strips and an uncracked dash (unobtanium, I know.) There's other bits here and there also. I've been making a living working on Subarus since I was a teen, 15 years and counting, and I find myself more drawn to these older ones now. I guess it all started with the second Subaru I owned back in high school, an 87.5 xt turbo (really regret selling that one.)

It says the assembly is different from side to side but it doesn't clarify which side the pic is for. And would I be wrong to assume it is from front the rear? I did notice on mine the LH spacer was marked 'LH' and the RH spacer was marked 'L'. Does anyone have length measurements of the spacers? I also removed and inspected all the pushrods, all Ok. The insides of the rocker covers are so clean you could eat off of them so I'm sure this car in its entirety has been well cared for. The RH rocker shaft had two flat washers stacked right after the front snap ring. Something weird is going on here... I'm using my ea71 brat motor that I rebuilt as a comparison to how I think this one should sound. You can hardly tell if its running or not its so quiet. My 85 brat with a solid lifter ea81 is a different story, it sounds like a diesel.

Thought I'd share a few pics of the latest addition to the collection. Picked it up July 1st. Pic are from last weekend, our biggest Subaru meet of the year.

Yes, thank you!

I am in need of the correct order of all the rocker shaft bits. I have a random, loud knocking when warm from the rh valvetrain. The engine was rebuilt by a dealer a long time ago and I suspect they didn't reassemble them correctly. If it is the same as an ea71 then I have an extra washer and also a spring washer in the wrong spot. I am normally not a desperate guy but I'm under a lot of pressure to bring this car to our big summer meet this weekend!

The inlet gasket for an ea82t is actually the one you need. I just bought two from Subaru and compared both turbos side by side disassembled on a bench to confirm. The Subaru gaskets I received are paper and not much better than what comes from the aftermarket. I was in the same boat and now have a 030 gasket sitting in my tool box.

Thats what is wierd about it. This wasn't valve to piston contact.