jonbfish

Thanks for all your info. The check engine light has been on basically since I bought the car, I figured it was because of the fuel filling issue, as I've had that on another Legacy. When it is running especially rough, the check engine light flashes until it quits sputtering, then goes back to just being on. I figure I probably have several codes in there so I will probably just buy a scanner if the standard still applies.

Thanks guys, that's what I thought. I need to go to the parts store and get a scan tomorrow, went from an intermittent sputter to a regular one in the last couple of days. That droid app sounds great, does it work with a lot of subarus? Are they up to OBD7 or something by now? Are the $50 scanners worth anything? As far as the car running rough, I'm thinking check the plugs and knock sensor. Would the charcoal canister or purge valve solenoid make it run rougher over time? Since I bought the car I haven't been able to get it to fill with an automatic gas pump - it wants to click it off real quick.

Do these newer subarus have to be hooked up to a scanner to get the codes? I recall looking under the dash and it having the same looking plugs as my 1991 Legacy did, where you could read the flashes from the MIL for codes.

Thanks again for all the help, this board is so valuable! Too bad this may be too much to fix. After it wouldn't start I pulled the plugs and had spark. I pulled the fuel line off at the filter and had fuel when I turned the key on so figure that is good. I went and bought a compression tester and rigged it up. I think I was doing it right (pulled all the plugs, unplugged the coil and all the fuel injectors) but only got a reading on the number 3 cylinder. Sounds bad to me. Is this motor shot or maybe just the heads or is there something I am missing. Like many others on here I have more time than money so if it can be fixed I would like to do that. Best thing might be to swap it with another motor?

Update: Pretty sure I got it back together with the belt in the correct spot and it still won't start. It spins fast and sounds like it doesn't have compression. I still need to check the obvious stuff but wanted opinions about two things that trouble me: 1. As mentioned, a couple hoses on the emissions system are deteriorating or cracked. I tried to put duct tape around them to seal them off temporarily. Would this be enough to make it not start? 2. When I was lining up the timing belt I noticed that the passenger cam gear turned fairly easily by hand while the drivers side was stiff and would wind up tight then release and spring forward. Can I pull the valve covers off with the engine still in and get a look at the cams? Which side sounds like it is wrong? Thanks

FINALLY got back around to dealing with this Anyway, got the covers off and it looks like maybe the driver side cam is one tooth off. Would this be enough to make it not start or am I likely dealing with something else? Marks on the belt are long gone; I tried to make a couple new ones but not real confident they will last. Can anyone give me any tips on counting teeth on the belt? Endwrench says the passenger side should be 44 teeth and the drivers 40.5, how exactly does that work? FYI I plan to replace most of the timing parts when I determine that the timing was the issue but want to put it part way back together to make sure this was the inital problem and that it will start. Thanks

Thanks for the help so far. I finally had a few minutes before it got dark last night and losened one of the belt covers. It seems that the belt is not broke and tight, so I'm guessing the idler is ok? I am wondering if it would be better to put a timing light on it before taking the crankshaft sproket off. I have a timing light but have never used it. Any tips? Does it matter to the timing light if it won't start? I see there is a small plate with lines and numbers near the crankshaft that I assume relate to the timing. Any other tips would be appreciated. Also, do any of you have the service tools for things like changing the timing belt or do you all just make do with screwdrivers and pliers and such?

91 Legacy 2.2 non-turbo I'll try to be brief. I was having problems with cold weather starting this winter. One time after jumpstarting I was getting poor performance so I pulled the codes when I got home. Had the usual 35 EVAP (I'm sure this contributed to the starting issue) and also the coolant temp sensor. Bought the sensor but ran into the problem that it was so cold (I don't have a garage and was working in the driveway) that some of the hoses didn't want to come off and I cracked one. Decided to wait to finish it and added some coolant and put it back together to see if it would run better with some added coolant. When I went to start it there was a loud noise and then it sounded like it didn't want to catch. My immediate thought was something was froze and the timing belt jumped. This happened when the water pump went out years ago. It is due for a belt anyway but my question is can the belt be easily moved and are the timing marks usually visible without a full replacement? I know the right thing to do is just change it out but I would like to make sure this is the problem and not something more serious before I invest in a new belt. I also would like to drive it to a garage to change the belt if possible. Anybody been able to adjust this without disassembling the whole thing?

I just figured I'd do them both then have the car aligned.

Thanks. I am replacing the passenger first because it is failing, will do the other side when this one is done. I bought just the strut from my local parts store and a spring compressor. My new one doesn't have a strut boot but the old one is decent. What I was talking about is some rubber that goes on the spring itself that is falling apart. I'm guessing that it keeps it from squeaking and isn't a big deal to leave it off. I think I will order the mount before I do this.

I have a 91 Legacy AWD wagon with regular struts. I bought a replacement for the drivers side rear and am going to change it out. Anyone have any tips? It looks like there was some kind of rubber sleeve around the spring that is falling apart. Also looks like maybe the rubber pad at the top should be replaced. Thanks

I guess the good news is I know how to take it apart now Thought about buying one but mine looked ok, wish I would have now since I already have 250k on it. Should have came to this board earlier in the job.

Talked to a tech on the phone and he confirmed it can only go in one way, just looked strange to me. Fork looked good but I replaced the clips and boot since i had it apart. Thanks

Hey guys, I am replacing the clutch in my 91 legacy and have a question about the release fork. The clip that holds it to the ball was a little bent up so I ordered a new one. The new one has the same bend at the bottom that makes it seem to only be installed one way; problem is the two bends where it holds against the ball seem to be backwards. Is this the correct installation or is there a trick to get it together? Don't have my camera handy but if a picture would help I could get one. Any experts have any suggestions?