86hatchback

Figured I'd post some pictures of the transmissions I have torn down today. So when people wonder what the PT4WD guts vs the FT4WD guts look like. So here's the PT on the bottom and the FT on top Here's a close up of PT pinion shaft. Here's the FT pinion shaft bare This is what the FT center diff and lock out look like. The transfer gear sits on top and is one piece out to the rear output. Last is the combo I put together EJ cases 23 spline stubs and FT4WD single range gear train.

If I had a whole awd trans I'd use it but at this point with the budget closing down I'm kind of stuck with what I have. If I have funds the future I'll switch over. I got a deal on a fwd legacy trans to steal the cases off of for cheap.

I've been bouncing around on how to do my hatch since I got it. So now after asking a lot of weird questions I just decided to stick with the stock mfpi ej22 thanks to Gloyale for offering to do the harness for me. The transmission will be a bit of a twist so I'll take pictures as I build that. I'm going to be putting ej cases on a ft4wd single range transmission with diff lock. That way I can use the better clutches and no adapters. I'm gonig to lower the car to 2wd height and make a canyon carver out of it. So tomorrow the fun of guttin the hatch begins.

I seem to remember that one doesn't clear the hood on a stock height rig. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong in the picture it looks pretty tall.

So I picked up the Escort distributor and coil and thinking of ways to carb the car. First thought is dual weber 34 single barrel on custom manifolds. Which best as I can figure would let me keep the spare tire in place. Lately I've been wondering about using one big carb in place of the stock throttle body. and was thinking of the S&S G carb for 100CI+ motors make a simple adapter plate and off ya go. Does anybody have any experiance with Harley carbs or thoughts on that set up, only concern would be keeping the fuel from puddling in the intake.

ahh didn't think to check the forward tilt. have to see how it compares to stock. I just want to find a comfy seat that doesn't have 200,000 miles on it that'll crap out after a year.

once you get it striped down to just the bare seat I don't think it's much taller except for maybe just because cushions thicker. I'll have to check next time I'm down there. The other one I forgot to check was front to back to see how much leg room it would kill if any for the backseat.

I went down to the Pick-n-pull North today down on Columbia and spent some time measuring seats of all kinds to see what might make the closest to bolt in as possible. Found out that the dodge caravan ('96-'00) seats have the same spacing for the rails and are just darn comfy plus it has the armrests on the inside. As soon as I get the tax return I'm gonna pick up a set just to see how well they fit. Just in case nobody had thought of it I thought I'd share. Also if anybody is looking for one there's an 81 wagon with the cyclops light that came in just a couple days ago.

Just need to go look at the one that's sittin around and I could probably answer a couple of those questions.

So mounting the xt6 swaybar should be pretty easy in the rear with proper trailing arms. Are there mounting points on the torsion housing or body?

I've had a wild hair for a while of the thought of a lowered 2wd ea82 sedan to go rippin through the curves with. Mainly because I found a 2wd xt6 a while back and it's still around. So my question is does the whole rear suspension swap over from the xt6 to the ea82 or just the rear arms? I'm assuming all xt6's had swaybars in the rear. I've read up on swapping the front just hadn't been able to find the rear info. Thanks

I just got my spare hubs back from the machine shop changing them to 4x100. Now I just have to find a set of wheels to try it out. Cost $170 for machining $36 for new wheel studs 1.5x12 I believe. Should open up wheel options a lot

feel like a dummy for not looking in this forum just thought of it as engine swaps and such. So I found all the info I needed. Please feel free to delete this post.

So I recently picked up almost all the drivetrain from under an 87 turbo wagon. Mainly bought it for the rear disks as the price as a package was hard to say no to. I haven't been been able to find a solid answer via the search on here, have found conflicting answers. So first question would be: If you bolt up the arms under my hatch I read that it pushes the knuckles forward, which would fix the caster issue that these cars have built in. Sounds like that would work as long as you had the EA82 axles. Anybody used this method vs cutting and redoing mounts? Second question: What does it take to make ea81 knuckles work on 82 arms and EA82 tie rods? As it would be nice to keep the adjustable struts that came on my hatch, and use the power steering rack that came with the parts. Third question: Sounds like the rear arms can also be used but with modifications. So what are those modifications and does it widen the track to match the front?

Done some more research in the last couple days and bought some parts. so I now own the complete running gear out of a 87 turbo, so the whole front cross member with powersteer rack with the pump, rear disc brakes and arms. Kid pretty much striped the bottom of his wagon to put xt6 stuff in. Plus I found the transmission I was hoping existed and it's only $125 the ft4wd with center lock. I remembered why I wanted that kind of a trans. Even with my under powered stock motor and over sized tires it will spin them in the rain. The turbo trans has the same overdrive. Sounds like the only way to get the same overdrive as the 4 speed would be to put 2wd legacy 5th gear set. The gearing isn't as important as the drive ability which I've heard with a five speed is much nicer. Driving my car to me is like my 78 Ford with the four speed. Yeah it's a manual but it's not as fun as my old toyota 2wd with a five speed.

The tires I have on it now it likes to dive into the corners but they are taller then stock. The car is my commuter and besides a worn out driver seat the car is in really good shape for 230,000. So I finally decided I don't want to wheel it. I'd rather have a nice commuter car and something I might be able to fling through the twisties. I did remember one of the main reasons I was thinking push button, which might be bunk too. Aren't most of the push buttons 3.7 instead of 3.9. I'd like to go back to the stock size tires but with stock tires and 3.9 gears that little car screamed on the freeway. I do a lot of 65+ mph commuting so it'd be nice to keep the rpm's down as much a possible. So why are the push buttons such crap compared to the dual range other then not having low range? Do they not engage as smooth a manual shift 4wd levers? I know my 4 speed shifts in and out really easy. Oh the winter driving thing, basically I wanted to keep the car able to shift into 4wd during the bad weather, which I wouldn't be driving fast at that point. So basically if I could find a dual range with 3.7's I'd go for that for sure.

The adjusters are all the way down, it's not like it's at an extreme camber or anything, just would be nice to get it to handle a little better. I know caster has a part in that as well. Nah if I could find a dual range I'd grab it, I know you can shift into 4wd above 55, hell you can hit low range at that speed to kick it up into the power band. Did that today climbing sunset hill. Figured the push buttons might be easier to find.

Well from what I've read I can put my stock strut tops on top of ea82 struts. From just measuring the spring perch down it would lower the front almost two inches, which I'm hoping would help the positive camber problem.

I picked up a set of xt4 2wd struts and springs since I heard they are the shortest struts. I'm curious if anybody has put these in a ea81. Does it get rid of the positive camber? I keep going back and forth on wither or not to leave it stock or lower it but it'd be nice to have a hatch that handled. It's a 4wd with the 4 speed but I'm thinking about the push button five speed for winter driving. So I could have 4wd when needed. Oh and to the guys using the adjustable coil-over, what vehicle do you order those for to get it to fit the Subby?

I might just end up picking it up, just so damn busy. Scored today though headed up to the wheel place up the street to get a wheel to do the six lug conversion, and there sat a set of 14in steel pugs. So $40 bucks later and a hatch load of wheels away I went. Got a set of winter tires on hold for tomorrow, damn I'm stoked. Anybody running a 195/70/14? says it's a 24.75 inch tall tire, Heard 25 is big as you can fit so I'm hoping that works out.

Well got the drums backers and front hubs off in about 40 minutes all for $60 not to bad really. Might get the tranny looks like there's room to maneuver under the car a bit, wait till I have a extra body to get help if the car falls on me haha. Anybody by chance happen to have a tool list of what I'd need to pull the tranny out at a junkyard? GeneralDisorder: In another post saw you mention chain driven portal boxes, my kind of guy, had that thought since I'd picked up a baja years ago.

Sounds simple enough, just have to look at how much room I have to maneuver under the car that's propped up on wheels Anybody converted from 4 to 5 speed, like it hate it impressions?

Thanks for the info on the hubs, not sure if I'll snag the tranny or not, what does it take to get it out? Do you have to pull the front suspesion apart or just unhook the motor and driveline drop it down then pop off the axles?

Well I found an 86 wagon at the part yard, with all four brakes intact. Does anybody know if ea81 front hubs and ea82 hubs are the same? I'm wanting to jack all the hardware so I can to a six lug swap while keeping the car on the road as long as possible. How hard is it to pull a transmission out of one of these little cars? it also has a Dual range 5 speed.

besides some of the upullits is there a good spot to find that kind of hardware? Subaru graveyard of sorts?