Bill90Loyale

Add me to the Wiper Snuggie fan club. Couldn't wipe worth crap for years. No luck bending arms, staring at old springs, putting new blades on.... 70 mph on a rainy day and I was screwed. Hitched my britches up, walked into the local NAPA, laid down my three bucks and said "Bartender, gimme a couple-a-them wiper snuggies." Being geometrically challenged, it took me longer to mount em than it did to kiss my first girlfriend (and that, my friends, took a while), but I can now report that I am Looking Forward to that first torrential downpour on I-89. These things work like a charm.

Phillip- Some interesting info can be found here. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/Equipment/Tires/index.html When you really get into it, you find that the Firestone/Goodyear/Bridgestone folks aren't doing well at all. The Asian (Korean, Japanese, Chinese) are cranking out some of the best tires on the road. The site above will get you to into NHTSA's recall database if you want to check specific tire recalls.

Who said anything about cheap tires? If you go to the web pages for tiresdirect or tirerack you'll find out more about tires than you'll ever learn while fondling your credit card at the local Goodyear dealership. And the warranty coverages apply. I'm satisfied that I got a great set of tires at a reasonable price.

Same here. Ordered my Yokohama's on the phone. Five days later the UPS truck dropped off four new tires on the porch. Paid my buddies at the exhaust/tire shop $10 a piece to mount and balance 'em, and (even with shipping and mounting) saved almost $75 over what the local tire dealer was going to charge me for an equivalent tire. The tires have been great ever since.

Greetings- Wife had fender bender. Driver's side door molding (exterior rubber) fixable, but need four new plastic moulding clips. Dealer gave me the old "gotta buy a whole new moulding" story. I don't buy it, but can't pull 'em from the yard because they break when pulled. I've already checked the online parts sources, which don't generally offer either the moulding or the clips. Can anyone feed me the part number for the plastic clips that hold the side moulding to the exterior of the driver's side door of a 95 Leg. Wagon, 2.2 L.? Thank you. Bill UPDATE: THE PART NUMBER FOR THE PLASTIC CLIPS: 91083AC100

Quote: Originally Posted by Bill90Loyale From following the USMB, it seems that there are lots of folks running the Accel 8140. Mine is fine - so far. Mounted same as original, no problems. About 10 months old. How old was it when it failed? "About 10 months old." Caleb- You really know how to set a man's mind at peace. You were supposed to say that you've been running an Accel 8140c in the horizontal for the last 15 years with absolutely no trouble. Now I really wish I'da hung on to the old one, and I'll have to double up on my anti-anxiety meds. Bill

Just saw your post. In the 90 loyale, #3 is "stop light, high mount stop light, and room light" (this is as described in the FSM - sounds like brake lights and overhead light), #4 is "clearance light" (reverse lights?). Both, as you say, are 15 amp.

From following the USMB, it seems that there are lots of folks running the Accel 8140. Mine is fine - so far. Mounted same as original, no problems. About 10 months old. How old was it when it failed?

I agree with checking the clutch for adjustment first. In the meantime, when was the last time you checked the gear oil level in the transaxle? Dipstick is underneath your spare tire, on the passenger side of the tranny. I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in mine now, very smooth. Synchros going? Good luck.

"Of course, this bad plug was the #2 cylinder which is the hardest to reach without removing the alternator, etc." Teasdam- What works for me on removing/installing the #2 plug is one of those little universal joint adaptors for the ratchet and an extension of six or eight inches. Congrats on the new oil pressure sending unit. When I replaced mine, my guage shot up to 70-75 psi (when cold) and about 5 psi increase at running temp. Replaced your oil pump yet? That can also have some very positive effects. Bill

"Also - there's no way I can see for intake gaskets to cause this - except for the carb base gasket...... I should check that out tho. I've had that carb on and off so many damn times it's certainly possible.... but the thing has had this problem since before I started messing with the carb." General- If, as we hope, its not the HG or a related major problem, I'd hone in on the "carb base gasket" that you refer to. When I had an oil/water mixture issue (emulsified crap on dipstick) in my Loyale, it was a bad throttle body gasket. Fixed the problem. Good luck. Bill

Caleb- Thank you. I stand corrected. I've never removed my distributor so thought that Snowstormer might be working against a pin.

Mr. Snowstormer- The FSM for an efi E82 (90) states the following for distributor disassembly: 1. Detach cap and dust cover as a unit. 2. Remove carbon point from cap. 3. Remove rotor head securing screw and detach rotor head from rotor shaft. 4. Remove O-ring from housing. 5. Drive roll pin out of shaft and pinion. 6. Remove pinion from shaft. That's it. Review steps 4 and 5. Note: FSM says "use new roll pin when installing pinion". Hope this helps.

Here's part of what a 1990 Loyale FSM says about it: "This distributor is equipped with a photoelectric crank-angle sensor which transmits a crank-angle signal and a cylinder-identification signal to the fuel injection control unit. A signal processing unit, which is built into the distributor housing, cnsists of LED and a photodiode....When the ignition switch is turned "ON", the LED emits light to the photodiode. The rotor plate turns as the engine starts....The "on-off" light signals are transmitted to the fuel injection control unit which determines optimum ignition timing and sends the appropriate signal to the coil....This type of distributor is not equipped with a centrifugal advance angel and a vacuum advance angle device." I don't think you can do much with respect to "maintenance" other than install a new cap and rotor. With respect to the EGR, search the posts for "EGR Solenoid". The consensus seems to be to replace the solenoid (not the EGR valve) with a junkyard version. If you don't feel like doing anything for the moment, a piece of black electrical tape can be customized to perfectly cover your CEL. One more thing: Have you considered a new oil pump? Lot's of "pinging" (lash adjuster noise) is basically a result of low oil pressure.

Which specs? I've got the FSM.

Relax General. Just enjoying the thought of observing this process. I get a big kick out of reading your contributions, and thank you for them. Bill

Would all volunteers please bring their vehicles to my place. I'll provide the garden hose. Towing services are the responsibility of vehicle owners.

My 90 Loyale did the same (no A/C) on my bare bones rig. The cure was a new oil pump. Other stuff I've done that may have augmented the cure: new distributor cap, rotor, magnecor wires, accel coil, five minute motor flushes at oil change time, Castrol High Milage 10w-30. Clean throttle body interior with carb cleaner, good NGK plugs. If you haven't replaced the oil pump before, and decide to take care of this now, put in a new water pump, cam seals, and timing belts (if they're close to due) at the same time. Get it over with. If this doesn't cure the problem and make you feel like a new man, I apologize.

I've been running the Accel in my 90 loyale for past four months. Had no mounting or other installation issues. Replaced plug wires at same time with a set of Magnecors. Standard NGK plugs. No problems so far. But I discarded the fourteen year old coil. Now I wish I hadn't. With respect to vibration, I'm having a bit of a problem thinking that vibration will hurt a healthy coil. Also, if a coil failed (short or broken circuit) wouldn't it shut down completely instead of causing misfire condition? Just curious.

Greetings. I have a 90 Loyale. I'm repairing the clock and have read the prior posts on this subject. Here's my problem: I've removed the clock from the dash and have removed the circuit board. When looking at the front of the board, the second resistor to the RIGHT of the buttons (the first resistor to the right is tiny- it's the second that I need) is burned and needs replacement. The problem is the color codes on the resistor are also burned. I don't have a multimeter. Can some helpful soul out there tell me what the ohm and watt rating is on the second resistor to the right of the buttons? Thanks in advance. Bill