Bill90Loyale

It's a solid piece of bent rod that was mounted to the car body. That solid rod holds one end of a rubber hanger. The other end of the rubber hanger supports a rod that's welded to the muffler. It's the car body piece of the hanger that broke off.

Hi Folks- Just noticed that one of the two hangers holding the rubber muffler mount has given up the ghost and broken away from rust on my 90 Loyale. From the looks of the broken end, there probably isn't a lot of good material left for a weld job - too early to say. Anybody have any good ideas? Thanks. Bill

Retard your timing to 18 degrees (instead of 20) and see if you find improvement.

Good job.

Good job. You're on your way now.

So that eliminates step 1. Thanks for the clarification OB.

http://www.ehow.com/how_14375_prepare-car-long.html Including the posts that follow the article.

Clean both the mating surface at the bottom of the block and the mating surface of the new pan to shiny metal. Immaculate. Use a wire wheel on the oil pan gasket surface if you have to. Use OEM oil pan gasket. No sealant. Take your time on the fourteen (?) oil pan bolts, torquing lightly and in star pattern increments. Those pan bolts don't need a lot of torque. Just past "firm" if you're not using a torque wrench. This is what worked for me. No leaks in six years.

Same here. I once thought it would be nice to replace the o-ring allegedly at the top of that tube, until I realized I was going to break something getting it out. Leave it alone unless it's visibly damaged or loose.

I agree with GD's remarks above. My experience so far: T Belts have pretty much made it to the predicted 60K except the last one which went at 45. The car is built for reliability, not speed. The oil leaks are reduced to a non-issue by replacement of the oil pan gasket and the valve cover gaskets. Annoying valve train noise is reduced to minimum by new oil pump mickey mouse o'ring and by not allowing your oil to get too old which reduces the efficiency of the small ports in the hydraulic lash adjusters. The cooling system works fine once you put in a new radiator - which the car will probably need sooner or later. The sloppy shift linkage can be addressed with new shifter bits (plastic and rubber). Is the 2.2 engine better? Yup. My wife loves hers.

All I can say is I bought a 90 for $1500 a number of years ago. The car had 98K on the clock. The car now has 239K. A VO-Tech paint job, attention to maintenance and she'll run for a long long time. Milage about 32 mpg on average. Drive like an old man and you'll be fine.

Glad no one was injured. Got any junkyards in the area with a nice 2.2?

Way to go Turbone. That's the old gen spirit in full.

Magnecor.

I'm with GD on the vacuum leak theory. While the engine is idling, try spraying a little carb cleaner around various vacuum connections and hoses - with particular attention to the elephant trunk from your air filter to the intake. If you note a change in idle speed (up or down), you've found your leak.

Pat- Did you check 1st Subaru? They appear to sell an "overhaul kit" for $57. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

Apologies Buck. I ain't sophisticated enough to own a digital cam yet. The moonmobile is basically this - except mine is a 90 (different hubcaps):

Yes it did. It is probably a better idea to run the ATF fluid in there for a day or two, rather than two months. Many have used ATF for this purpose (cleaning the engine internals) without apparent harm.

My Fellow Suberites Everywhere, I send greetings. Let the cyberspace record reflect that on this date, May 2, 2008, my 1990 Loyale made it to 238,000 miles - a moonshot. It was a soft landing and all systems are go. This is a car I paid $1500 for 140,000 trouble-free miles ago. Sure, I had a little bit to do with this achievement - I avoided crashing into anything - but the real credit goes to the Japanese engineers who designed such a simple, reliable, economical machine. The credit goes to them. Best wishes to all - whether you're making your way to the Moon, or, like me and my Subie, headed on to Mars which, at about 34.8 million miles, will likely take a while. I'll post again upon arrival.

This is a tale of pleasure, not intended as a recommended practice. Car: 90 Loyale. Miles: Within 20 of a Moonshot - 238K. In the Vermont winter that my car and I live in, I run 10w30. About 2 months ago, I dumped about a pint of automatic transmission fluid into the crankcase. Just a run about the block to clean out the oil ports? Not me my friends...oh no...not me. I ran that baby for two months. My oil pressure acted sort of normal most of the time, and abnormal at other times. Much like the engine's owner. Abnormal in what way, you might wonder? Well cruising on the highway, engine fully up to temp, my pressure would be nearing the golden mean of 45 psi, then would bog down as low as about 35 and stay there for awhile as my thinned-out oil foamed, and then would inexplicably rise to about 44 again. I began to hear connecting rod bearing noises in my mind, and sometimes seemed to hear them in my car at idle. I finally got around to draining the black kool-aid. Very satisfying as it ran like thinned black apple juice into my waiting oil catch pan. I half expected to find some metal glitter on the surface, and some lovely chunks of bearing material in the bottom of the pan. No, I had none of that my friends. Just pure Jim Jones licorice. Then I proceeded to dump in my new summer motor honey: Castrol 20w50. You could feel the engine tremble with anticipation as the golden syrup poured slowly down the filler neck. Buttoned everything up and.... Fired her off. She clattered at first, as the thick creme entered the starved (but shiny clean) hydraulic lash adjusters, then settled into a purr. I rolled her out onto the road and watched as my oil pressure needle rose like a steroid-filled, Viva Viagra popping professional athlete about to pay his date a visit. The oil pressure is now routinely at about 46, I gained somewhere around 6 psi at idle, and both me and the engine are feeling really really good. Time for a cigarette. Peace be with you my friends.

It's under there. You'll find it. Meanwhile, you might enjoy this thread: http://tinyurl.com/5srjhx

Not a stupid question at all. The intake manifold is a large aluminum casting that is basically mounted to the top of the engine. Look for about a 3/4 inch black hose that appears to be stuck into the manifold on the upper side of the manifold (sort of passenger side IIRC, might be in the middle). The hose may be held on with a spring clamp. The hose attaches to the PCV, which is nothing but a heavy sort of hex bolt (19 mm IIRC) screwed into the manifold. It's torqued down pretty tight, so remember: lefty loosey.

If you part it out or junk it, let me know where it goes. That car would be a real asset to me in parts. I'm in Rutland. Best wishes to your dad and glad he's ok.

And put the old ones on top of your spare tire in the engine compartment (they rest perfectly in the full size wheel hub). You'll always have a spare tire AND a spare belt.

Have you eliminated the bad battery theory? If you haven't, try jumping it with a known good battery and see if that solves the problem.